I just finished removing all the drywall, the sink and toilet from
this small upstairs bathroom. I am trying to decide whether to replace
or repair/refinish the old cast iron bathtub that is already there.

One of the problems I have is that the bathtub is set so that the
drywall comes down to the top edge of the tub instead of the drywall
going all the way to the floor and the tub butting up against the
drywall. If I want to keep this tub and drywall all the way to the
floor, it looks like I will need to move one wall a little bit and
then move the tub over and probably adjust the position of the drain.
Also, the longest part of the tub is up against an exterior wall.

If I decide to replace the bathtub, what are the odds that I can find
one with just the dimensions I need?

Anybody got any ideas on this kind of situation?

Thanks, David

On Aug 26, 2:32*pm, hibb wrote:
I just finished removing all the drywall, the sink and toilet from
this small upstairs bathroom. I am trying to decide whether to replace
or repair/refinish the old cast iron bathtub that is already there.

So far, so good.

One of the problems I have is that the bathtub is set so that the
drywall comes down to the top edge of the tub instead of the drywall
going all the way to the floor and the tub butting up against the
drywall.

That is the standard way. I don't know how else you'd do it. You
want the outermost edge of the tub lip to be tight against the studs
so that all wall materials are overhanging the tub. It's the simplest
way to have a waterproof installation. I suppose you could use
Redgard and an applied flashing to cover the rim, but then you'd have
to increase the wall tile setting bed thickness to compensate. That's
a losing proposition.

If I want to keep this tub and drywall all the way to the
floor, it looks like I will need to move one wall a little bit and
then move the tub over and probably adjust the position of the drain.
Also, the longest part of the tub is up against an exterior wall.

I don't understand the desire to run the drywall to the floor. Why do
it?

If I decide to replace the bathtub, what are the odds that I can find
one with just the dimensions I need?

They are more or less standard. If you need to notch out a quarter of
an inch of the studs - just recess the rim - that's fine, or if it's a
little small, just shim out the studs with plywood strips.

R

On Aug 26, 2:32*pm, hibb wrote:
I just finished removing all the drywall, the sink and toilet from
this small upstairs bathroom. I am trying to decide whether to replace
or repair/refinish the old cast iron bathtub that is already there.

One of the problems I have is that the bathtub is set so that the
drywall comes down to the top edge of the tub instead of the drywall
going all the way to the floor and the tub butting up against the
drywall. If I want to keep this tub and drywall all the way to the
floor, it looks like I will need to move one wall a little bit and
then move the tub over and probably adjust the position of the drain.
Also, the longest part of the tub is up against an exterior wall.

If I decide to replace the bathtub, what are the odds that I can find
one with just the dimensions I need?

Anybody got any ideas on this kind of situation?

Thanks, David

Do you mean that your tub isn't installed like the rest of us have
ours installed?

http://www.mytorontohomeimprovement....ng-bathtub.jpg

Poor you.

On Aug 26, 2:34*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Aug 26, 2:32*pm, hibb wrote:



I just finished removing all the drywall, the sink and toilet from
this small upstairs bathroom. I am trying to decide whether to replace
or repair/refinish the old cast iron bathtub that is already there.

One of the problems I have is that the bathtub is set so that the
drywall comes down to the top edge of the tub instead of the drywall
going all the way to the floor and the tub butting up against the
drywall. If I want to keep this tub and drywall all the way to the
floor, it looks like I will need to move one wall a little bit and
then move the tub over and probably adjust the position of the drain.
Also, the longest part of the tub is up against an exterior wall.

If I decide to replace the bathtub, what are the odds that I can find
one with just the dimensions I need?

Anybody got any ideas on this kind of situation?

Thanks, David

Do you mean that your tub isn't installed like the rest of us have
ours installed?

http://www.mytorontohomeimprovement....ads/2009/01/in...

Poor you.

Poor me indeed!

hibb wrote:
On Aug 26, 6:25 pm, aemeijers wrote:
RicodJour wrote:
On Aug 26, 2:32 pm, hibb wrote:
I just finished removing all the drywall, the sink and toilet from
this small upstairs bathroom. I am trying to decide whether to replace
or repair/refinish the old cast iron bathtub that is already there.
So far, so good.
One of the problems I have is that the bathtub is set so that the
drywall comes down to the top edge of the tub instead of the drywall
going all the way to the floor and the tub butting up against the
drywall.
That is the standard way. I don't know how else you'd do it. You
want the outermost edge of the tub lip to be tight against the studs
so that all wall materials are overhanging the tub. It's the simplest
way to have a waterproof installation. I suppose you could use
Redgard and an applied flashing to cover the rim, but then you'd have
to increase the wall tile setting bed thickness to compensate. That's
a losing proposition.
If I want to keep this tub and drywall all the way to the
floor, it looks like I will need to move one wall a little bit and
then move the tub over and probably adjust the position of the drain.
Also, the longest part of the tub is up against an exterior wall.
I don't understand the desire to run the drywall to the floor. Why do
it?
If I decide to replace the bathtub, what are the odds that I can find
one with just the dimensions I need?
They are more or less standard. If you need to notch out a quarter of
an inch of the studs - just recess the rim - that's fine, or if it's a
little small, just shim out the studs with plywood strips.
R
Uh, modern tub with lip and skirt, or old clawfoot, that was perhaps
badly boxed in, in a previous remodel, to make it look 'modern'? Seen
lotsa those in older houses. But yeah, if this is a modern tub, tub goes
in first, and you build the bathroom around it.

I'll throw in the standard reminder to insulate behind and under the tub
while the walls are open. Even with a cast-iron tub, it makes the water
stay hot longer, and reduces cold-butt syndrome climbing into an empty tub.

--
aem sends...


Here ye go.

http://dyhibb.fileave.com/Bathtub%203.JPG

I don't know how modern it is but it's not a claw foot type.

Did you know PCTools has your URL blacklisted? You (and/or this
fileave site you are a tenant on) weren't an unwitting zombie carrier or
something recently, were you?

Bottom line- I can't see your picture unless I disable my security
perimeter. Can you copy it over to one of the trusted public photo sites?

--
aem sends...

On Aug 26, 10:18*pm, aemeijers wrote:
hibb wrote:
On Aug 26, 6:25 pm, aemeijers wrote:
RicodJour wrote:
On Aug 26, 2:32 pm, hibb wrote:
I just finished removing all the drywall, the sink and toilet from
this small upstairs bathroom. I am trying to decide whether to replace
or repair/refinish the old cast iron bathtub that is already there.
So far, so good.
One of the problems I have is that the bathtub is set so that the
drywall comes down to the top edge of the tub instead of the drywall
going all the way to the floor and the tub butting up against the
drywall.
That is the standard way. *I don't know how else you'd do it. *You
want the outermost edge of the tub lip to be tight against the studs
so that all wall materials are overhanging the tub. *It's the simplest
way to have a waterproof installation. *I suppose you could use
Redgard and an applied flashing to cover the rim, but then you'd have
to increase the wall tile setting bed thickness to compensate. *That's
a losing proposition.
If I want to keep this tub and drywall all the way to the
floor, it looks like I will need to move one wall a little bit and
then move the tub over and probably adjust the position of the drain..
Also, the longest part of the tub is up against an exterior wall.
I don't understand the desire to run the drywall to the floor. *Why do
it?
If I decide to replace the bathtub, what are the odds that I can find
one with just the dimensions I need?
They are more or less standard. *If you need to notch out a quarter of
an inch of the studs - just recess the rim - that's fine, or if it's a
little small, just shim out the studs with plywood strips.
R
Uh, modern tub with lip and skirt, or old clawfoot, that was perhaps
badly boxed in, in a previous remodel, to make it look 'modern'? Seen
lotsa those in older houses. But yeah, if this is a modern tub, tub goes
in first, and you build the bathroom around it.

I'll throw in the standard reminder to insulate behind and under the tub
while the walls are open. Even with a cast-iron tub, it makes the water
stay hot longer, and reduces cold-butt syndrome climbing into an empty tub.

--
aem sends...

Here ye go.

http://dyhibb.fileave.com/Bathtub%203.JPG

I don't know how modern it is but it's not a claw foot type.

Did you know PCTools has your URL blacklisted? You (and/or this
fileave site you are a tenant on) weren't an unwitting zombie carrier or
something recently, were you?

Bottom line- I can't see your picture unless I disable my security
perimeter. Can you copy it over to one of the trusted public photo sites?

--
aem sends...

Worked fine for me using FF and running AVAST 5.0.594.

It looks like your basic steel tub with a flange to accept the
wallboard.

David,

A good website for renovating a bathroom.

http://www.johnbridge.com/

Their focus is on tile, but they cover non-tile installations too. If
you are going to add a shower, you'll probably need to make some
changes to your existing setup.

Good luck.

dss

On Aug 26, 9:18*pm, aemeijers wrote:
hibb wrote:
On Aug 26, 6:25 pm, aemeijers wrote:
RicodJour wrote:
On Aug 26, 2:32 pm, hibb wrote:
I just finished removing all the drywall, the sink and toilet from
this small upstairs bathroom. I am trying to decide whether to replace
or repair/refinish the old cast iron bathtub that is already there.
So far, so good.
One of the problems I have is that the bathtub is set so that the
drywall comes down to the top edge of the tub instead of the drywall
going all the way to the floor and the tub butting up against the
drywall.
That is the standard way. *I don't know how else you'd do it. *You
want the outermost edge of the tub lip to be tight against the studs
so that all wall materials are overhanging the tub. *It's the simplest
way to have a waterproof installation. *I suppose you could use
Redgard and an applied flashing to cover the rim, but then you'd have
to increase the wall tile setting bed thickness to compensate. *That's
a losing proposition.
If I want to keep this tub and drywall all the way to the
floor, it looks like I will need to move one wall a little bit and
then move the tub over and probably adjust the position of the drain..
Also, the longest part of the tub is up against an exterior wall.
I don't understand the desire to run the drywall to the floor. *Why do
it?
If I decide to replace the bathtub, what are the odds that I can find
one with just the dimensions I need?
They are more or less standard. *If you need to notch out a quarter of
an inch of the studs - just recess the rim - that's fine, or if it's a
little small, just shim out the studs with plywood strips.
R
Uh, modern tub with lip and skirt, or old clawfoot, that was perhaps
badly boxed in, in a previous remodel, to make it look 'modern'? Seen
lotsa those in older houses. But yeah, if this is a modern tub, tub goes
in first, and you build the bathroom around it.

I'll throw in the standard reminder to insulate behind and under the tub
while the walls are open. Even with a cast-iron tub, it makes the water
stay hot longer, and reduces cold-butt syndrome climbing into an empty tub.

--
aem sends...

Here ye go.

http://dyhibb.fileave.com/Bathtub%203.JPG

I don't know how modern it is but it's not a claw foot type.

Did you know PCTools has your URL blacklisted? You (and/or this
fileave site you are a tenant on) weren't an unwitting zombie carrier or
something recently, were you?

Bottom line- I can't see your picture unless I disable my security
perimeter. Can you copy it over to one of the trusted public photo sites?

--
aem sends...


I'll have to check in to that. This is the first time I have used
FileAve. I posted in another NG about needing a file hosting site and
another poster posted a link to a page that rated those sites. FileAve
was the top rated file hosting site from that page.

On Aug 27, 8:05*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Aug 26, 4:35*pm, hibb wrote:



On Aug 26, 2:33*pm, "Colbyt" wrote:

"hibb" wrote in message

....

I just finished removing all the drywall, the sink and toilet from
this small upstairs bathroom. I am trying to decide whether to replace
or repair/refinish the old cast iron bathtub that is already there.

One of the problems I have is that the bathtub is set so that the
drywall comes down to the top edge of the tub instead of the drywall
going all the way to the floor and the tub butting up against the
drywall. If I want to keep this tub and drywall all the way to the
floor, it looks like I will need to move one wall a little bit and
then move the tub over and probably adjust the position of the drain.

On Aug 27, 7:24*am, dss wrote:
David,

A good website for renovating a bathroom.

http://www.johnbridge.com/

Their focus is on tile, but they cover non-tile installations too. If
you are going to add a shower, you'll probably need to make some
changes to your existing setup.

Good luck.

dss


Thanks, DSS.

I've got the site bookmarked and will look it over more once I get
past the electrical problems that cropped up.

David

On Aug 27, 10:23*am, hibb wrote:
On Aug 26, 9:18*pm, aemeijers wrote:





hibb wrote:
On Aug 26, 6:25 pm, aemeijers wrote:
RicodJour wrote:
On Aug 26, 2:32 pm, hibb wrote:
I just finished removing all the drywall, the sink and toilet from
this small upstairs bathroom. I am trying to decide whether to replace
or repair/refinish the old cast iron bathtub that is already there..
So far, so good.
One of the problems I have is that the bathtub is set so that the
drywall comes down to the top edge of the tub instead of the drywall
going all the way to the floor and the tub butting up against the
drywall.
That is the standard way. *I don't know how else you'd do it. *You
want the outermost edge of the tub lip to be tight against the studs
so that all wall materials are overhanging the tub. *It's the simplest
way to have a waterproof installation. *I suppose you could use
Redgard and an applied flashing to cover the rim, but then you'd have
to increase the wall tile setting bed thickness to compensate. *That's
a losing proposition.
If I want to keep this tub and drywall all the way to the
floor, it looks like I will need to move one wall a little bit and
then move the tub over and probably adjust the position of the drain.
Also, the longest part of the tub is up against an exterior wall.
I don't understand the desire to run the drywall to the floor. *Why do
it?
If I decide to replace the bathtub, what are the odds that I can find
one with just the dimensions I need?
They are more or less standard. *If you need to notch out a quarter of
an inch of the studs - just recess the rim - that's fine, or if it's a
little small, just shim out the studs with plywood strips.
R
Uh, modern tub with lip and skirt, or old clawfoot, that was perhaps
badly boxed in, in a previous remodel, to make it look 'modern'? Seen
lotsa those in older houses. But yeah, if this is a modern tub, tub goes
in first, and you build the bathroom around it.

I'll throw in the standard reminder to insulate behind and under the tub
while the walls are open. Even with a cast-iron tub, it makes the water
stay hot longer, and reduces cold-butt syndrome climbing into an empty tub.

--
aem sends...

Here ye go.

http://dyhibb.fileave.com/Bathtub%203.JPG

I don't know how modern it is but it's not a claw foot type.

Did you know PCTools has your URL blacklisted? You (and/or this
fileave site you are a tenant on) weren't an unwitting zombie carrier or
something recently, were you?

Bottom line- I can't see your picture unless I disable my security
perimeter. Can you copy it over to one of the trusted public photo sites?

--
aem sends...

I'll have to check in to that. This is the first time I have used
FileAve. I posted in another NG about needing a file hosting site and
another poster posted a link to a page that rated those sites. FileAve
was the top rated file hosting site from that page.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

FYI...I am able to access the picture via my corporate-image system
even with it's site-blocking proxy servers. I can't access anything at
tinypic, but I had no problem with the fileave site.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On Aug 27, 2:12 pm, "RogerT" wrote:
hibb wrote:
Cast iron tubs weigh a ton (or, more correctly, a couple of hundred pounds
+/-). But they are easy to get out. You use a sledge hammer and break them
up. There are lots ofhttp://YouTube.comvideos to show how that's done. I
watched the videos and did one and it was fun to do. Put the cast iron
pieces out by the curb and scrap metal collectors will take it in a flash.


At the current price (here) of $185.00 a ton I would take the time to drop
it off myself.

Colbyt

On Aug 27, 3:54*pm, "Colbyt" wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

...
On Aug 27, 2:12 pm, "RogerT" wrote:

hibb wrote:
Cast iron tubs weigh a ton (or, more correctly, a couple of hundred pounds
+/-). But they are easy to get out. You use a sledge hammer and break them
up. There are lots ofhttp://YouTube.comvideosto show how that's done. I
watched the videos and did one and it was fun to do. Put the cast iron
pieces out by the curb and scrap metal collectors will take it in a flash.

At the current price (here) of $185.00 a ton I would take the time to drop
it off myself. *

Which is about the selling price for a used tub around here. A
refinished one is a few hundred on up. Don't bust 'em up. The scrap
gets sold to China and it comes back here as, well, scrap.

R

On Fri, 27 Aug 2010 12:58:30 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour
wrote:

At the current price (here) of $185.00 a ton I would take the time to drop
it off myself. *

Which is about the selling price for a used tub around here. A
refinished one is a few hundred on up. Don't bust 'em up. The scrap
gets sold to China and it comes back here as, well, scrap.

R

Give the tub to a local architectural / historical salvage store in
your area. Or a Habitat Restore.

Get four linebackers to carry this monster down the stairs.

On Aug 27, 1:55*pm, RicodJour wrote:
On Aug 26, 10:18*pm, aemeijers wrote:

hibb wrote:

Here ye go.

http://dyhibb.fileave.com/Bathtub%203.JPG

I don't know how modern it is but it's not a claw foot type.

Did you know PCTools has your URL blacklisted? You (and/or this
fileave site you are a tenant on) weren't an unwitting zombie carrier or
something recently, were you?

Bottom line- I can't see your picture unless I disable my security
perimeter. Can you copy it over to one of the trusted public photo sites?

Yeah, OP, what's up with that? *Fileave is a shaky site.http://www.mywot.com/en/scorecard/fileave.com
Do better than that if you're going to post here.

R

I used to have that WOT application on my browser. I had to wonder if
they based some of their ratings on data from users that were less
than honest. Perhaps other sites trying to give their competition a
bad reputation.

Still, tho. Now I recon I had better use something else.

On Aug 27, 8:56*pm, hibb wrote:
On Aug 27, 1:55*pm, RicodJour wrote:
On Aug 26, 10:18*pm, aemeijers wrote:
hibb wrote:

Here ye go.

http://dyhibb.fileave.com/Bathtub%203.JPG

I don't know how modern it is but it's not a claw foot type.

Did you know PCTools has your URL blacklisted? You (and/or this
fileave site you are a tenant on) weren't an unwitting zombie carrier or
something recently, were you?

Bottom line- I can't see your picture unless I disable my security
perimeter. Can you copy it over to one of the trusted public photo sites?

Yeah, OP, what's up with that? *Fileave is a shaky site.http://www.mywot.com/en/scorecard/fileave.com
Do better than that if you're going to post here.


I used to have that WOT application on my browser. *I had to wonder if
they based some of their ratings on data from users that were less
than honest. Perhaps other sites trying to give their competition a
bad reputation.

Still, tho. Now I recon I had better use something else.

I have seen the WOT thing skewed by someone with a bone to pick, but
that fileave site had a number of specific complaints, and not just
privacy issues. Better safe than sorry.

R

RicodJour wrote:
On Aug 27, 8:56 pm, hibb wrote:
On Aug 27, 1:55 pm, RicodJour wrote:
On Aug 26, 10:18 pm, aemeijers wrote:
hibb wrote:
Here ye go.
http://dyhibb.fileave.com/Bathtub%203.JPG
I don't know how modern it is but it's not a claw foot type.
Did you know PCTools has your URL blacklisted? You (and/or this
fileave site you are a tenant on) weren't an unwitting zombie carrier or
something recently, were you?
Bottom line- I can't see your picture unless I disable my security
perimeter. Can you copy it over to one of the trusted public photo sites?
Yeah, OP, what's up with that? Fileave is a shaky site.http://www.mywot.com/en/scorecard/fileave.com
Do better than that if you're going to post here.

I used to have that WOT application on my browser. I had to wonder if
they based some of their ratings on data from users that were less
than honest. Perhaps other sites trying to give their competition a
bad reputation.

Still, tho. Now I recon I had better use something else.

I have seen the WOT thing skewed by someone with a bone to pick, but
that fileave site had a number of specific complaints, and not just
privacy issues. Better safe than sorry.

R
Yeah, that is what I figure. This machine is long overdue for reloading
(or moving into the better machine sitting on the floor that also needs
a fresh load), but recovering from a major infection or crash is a
siginificant PITA. Not so much the 2-3 hours loading the software, but
the days drilling around on the crashed drive recovering and sorting
data, and tweaking all the program settings, etc. I keep meaning to buy
an external drive, since I no longer have the patience to spool stuff
off to CDs, but at the moment the past 2 years or so are basically not
backed up.

I have enough PCs sitting around- I really ought to have one dedicated
just to internet/usenet browsing, with no data I care about loaded on
it. Image that to a spare drive, so when it gets infected, it is a
matter of minutes to start over.

--
aem sends...

Hi David,

I just finished removing all the drywall, the sink and toilet from
this small upstairs bathroom. I am trying to decide whether to replace
or repair/refinish the old cast iron bathtub that is already there.

If you're going to the trouble of gutting the bathroom, you might as well
install a new modern steel tub. They're relatively inexpensive (under
$200 at most home centers), and you'll get a new finish with a tub that
is designed for modern fixtures. If it were a fancy clawfoot tub it
might be different, but yours sounds like an old generic tub.

I'm sure you wouldn't want a shiny new bathroom with an old rusted and/or
discolored tub.

One of the problems I have is that the bathtub is set so that the
drywall comes down to the top edge of the tub instead of the drywall
going all the way to the floor and the tub butting up against the
drywall.

The tub should mount directly to the studs, then the wall finish overlap
the lip of the tub. You should attach a horizontal support around the
tub area to support the underside edge of the tub. If the tub does not
have a foam support pad built in, test fit the tub to make sure it fits,
then pour a rough mortar bed to set the tub in. This will make the tub
feel more solid, as well as providing a level base if the floor has any
variations.

Also, you should use cement board or hardibacker behind the tile, NOT
drywall. Drywall should not be used in a wet location like a bath/shower
surround. As extra insurance, I recommend applying a waterproofing
membrane like Kerdi to the backerboard before tiling. An extra expense
now, but good insurance for the future.

If I decide to replace the bathtub, what are the odds that I can find
one with just the dimensions I need?

Bathtubs are usually standard dimensions (5' being typical), so you
probably won't have any issues. But, you can always shim out the studs
if needed to get the exact space you need for a new tub.

You can special order tubs in other sizes, but it's probably cheaper to
pick the closest standard size and shim out the studs as needed to make
it fit.

Good luck,

Anthony

Yeah, make the window go away, replace it with glass block,
make it be even with the installed tilework, and have a vent
fan tied to a humidity sensor, and a ceiling fan in the room as
well to reduce stratification.

On Aug 27, 2:12*pm, "RogerT" wrote:

Any suggestions out there (I don't have any) for how "hibb" could or should
deal with the window in the new shower/tub area?

See if there's a Habitat For Humanity Restore in your area.
I needed a tub to replace one that was in less than wonderful
condition.
First, the sledge hammer kinda bounced. But when I used my
old pick (pointed at one end) it put an excellent crack in it,
and I just kept making more cracks and turned that old tub
into pieces I could put in my pocket if I wanted.
I went to the Restore, found a Jacuzzi-type tub, fibreglas, that
may have never been used. It had been put out a month before
for $250, so after the month it became $125.
My wife would NEVER let us go back to a regular tub for baths,
and this one is deep enough and so comfortable for me, too.
There wasn't a pump, but I got one for $20, but I haven't put it
in, I just shunted the water jet fittings because SWMBO prefers
to take 2-hour soaking baths after her weight-training class. A
pump makes things cool down quickly.

Really, you need to acquaint yourself with what's available
out there.


On Aug 26, 2:32*pm, hibb wrote:
I just finished removing all the drywall, the sink and toilet from
this small upstairs bathroom. I am trying to decide whether to replace
or repair/refinish the old cast iron bathtub that is already there.

One of the problems I have is that the bathtub is set so that the
drywall comes down to the top edge of the tub instead of the drywall
going all the way to the floor and the tub butting up against the
drywall. If I want to keep this tub and drywall all the way to the
floor, it looks like I will need to move one wall a little bit and
then move the tub over and probably adjust the position of the drain.
Also, the longest part of the tub is up against an exterior wall.

If I decide to replace the bathtub, what are the odds that I can find
one with just the dimensions I need?

Anybody got any ideas on this kind of situation?

Thanks, David

"Michael B" wrote in message
...
......'
First, the sledge hammer kinda bounced. But when I used my
old pick (pointed at one end) it put an excellent crack in it,
and I just kept making more cracks and turned that old tub
into pieces I could put in my pocket if I wanted.

++++++++++++++++++

When I did my tub smashing experience (for the first time), I used a heavy
16 pound sledge hammer and that worked. I also had a lighter sledge hammer
and that did tend to bounce off. I also brought a pick with me, and like
you, it did work at creating the initial cracks that are sometimes needed to
get the whole tub break-up going. But, the 16 pound sledge hammer was
enough on its own.