Spouse has very nicely removed the ugly linoleum-type tiles from the samll
powder room's floor. Now the wood shows, but is a bit sticky. Before we
finish the floor, should we just sand, or is it better to remove the
"sticky" with a solvent? Room has a window, and is less than 3x10 ft.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On Aug 8, 1:00*pm, Han wrote:
Spouse has very nicely removed the ugly linoleum-type tiles from the samll
powder room's floor. *Now the wood shows, but is a bit sticky. *Before we
finish the floor, should we just sand, or is it better to remove the
"sticky" with a solvent? *Room has a window, and is less than 3x10 ft.

Depends. If you sand you'll be changing sandpaper frequently, at
least initially, because the adhesive will soften and become sticky
with the heat from sanding and clog the gum up the sandpaper. If you
use solvents first you'll probably be able to sand a bit less. If the
floor has been sanded a number of times previously, solvents first
will allow you to sand a bit less and extend the potential life of the
floor.

In either event, have a strong fan blowing out the window and wear a
respirator if you use solvents.

R

"DanG" wrote in -
september.org:

I think the big question has to be how you intend to finish the
floor and what the floor is (concrete or wood subfloor).

If it is concrete:
Razor blade scrape the floor and cap the previous adhesive.
Is the left over stuff black? - cutback adhesive, possible
asbestos. Cap with ARdex floor leveler or similar.

If it is wood subfloor:
If it will be ceramic tile, I would cap it with wonder board or
Ditra.
If you are applying any other type of flooring, I would suggest
capping the existing wood floor with sheet goods - mdf, plywood,
hardie board, etc - DO NOT BE STINGY WITH GLUE AND NAILS.
You can also skim out the adhesive area with one of the Ardex
products.

Here is some information:
http://www.ardex.com/default.asp

Thanks, guys. The floor is hardwood, oak I think, about 1/2 inch planks
from 1929. As are the other parts of the first floor which we alraedy
had sanded and polyurethaned. The living room etc. look now much more
blond than the dark reddish powder room floor, but we'd like that to be
the same as the living room - polyurethaned hardwood. We'll never sell
this home, so if it's not 100% code, that's our kids' problem.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

RicodJour wrote:
-snip-

In either event, have a strong fan blowing out the window and wear a
respirator if you use solvents.


*and* leave the door open. If the room can't suck some replacement
air in, you won't exhaust much through the window.

Jim

Jim Elbrecht wrote in
:

RicodJour wrote:
-snip-

In either event, have a strong fan blowing out the window and wear a
respirator if you use solvents.


*and* leave the door open. If the room can't suck some replacement
air in, you won't exhaust much through the window.

Jim

That's no problem!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

"Han" wrote in message
...
Spouse has very nicely removed the ugly linoleum-type tiles from the samll
powder room's floor. Now the wood shows, but is a bit sticky. Before we
finish the floor, should we just sand, or is it better to remove the
"sticky" with a solvent? Room has a window, and is less than 3x10 ft.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

If you sand it, in five minutes you'll know the proper answer is solvent
first. Try scraping what you can though,

On Aug 8, 2:28*pm, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
RicodJour wrote:

-snip-



In either event, have a strong fan blowing out the window and wear a
respirator if you use solvents.

*and* leave the door open. * *If the room can't suck some replacement
air in, you won't exhaust much through the window.

The way I do it is to stick the fan in the window, tape it in place
with blue tape, tape some cardboard or plastic to cover around the fan
so the only opening to the outside is through the fan (prevents blow
back around the sides of the fan from short circuiting the exhaust
air), then use a re-usable plastic 'door' made with two self-stick
zippers and 6 mil poly, in the door opening, and leave the zippers
cracked a bit so the door plastic is bowed into the room a bit. The
in-rushing air is right at floor level and the air has only one way
out of the room.

Those plastic zipper things are fantabulous. http://pro-tect.com/vmchk/Zip-Up.html
You can get them for around $3 per on eBay if you buy them by the box.

R

On Aug 8, 12:00*pm, Han wrote:
Spouse has very nicely removed the ugly linoleum-type tiles from the samll
powder room's floor. *Now the wood shows, but is a bit sticky. *Before we
finish the floor, should we just sand, or is it better to remove the
"sticky" with a solvent? *Room has a window, and is less than 3x10 ft.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Either sand or clean but solvents to clean it are not good for you and
sanding is probably quicker, so an extra belt ot 2 or a gallon of
nasty stuff that might make your babies deformed [ kidding] just
probably a headache and a high, id go the sand route.

On Aug 8, 10:00*am, Han wrote:
Spouse has very nicely removed the ugly linoleum-type tiles from the samll
powder room's floor. *Now the wood shows, but is a bit sticky. *Before we
finish the floor, should we just sand, or is it better to remove the
"sticky" with a solvent? *Room has a window, and is less than 3x10 ft.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Han-

Before you try "solvent".... try warm water with very small amount of
soap (like dish washing liquid)

I remove my new linoleum (2004) then the "floor evening" 1/4" plywood
that had been nailed through the 1930 linoleum.
Then the 1930 linoleum which left about 1/2 wood showing & 1/2 partial
thickness of linoleum.

At first I tried various paint / varnish / linoleum remover, worked ok
but not great...... but a lucky accident got me using warm soapy
water.
I scrub brushed the residue with warn slightly soapy water, let it sit
a bit and shop vac up the watery mess.
Then scrape with a 4" flexible putty knife followed by a bit more
water and scrubbing with heavy rags.

It cleaned up very nicely.... to the point where I even considered
refinishing it but I'm not a huge fan of wood in a kitchen.

The "floor" (the original kitchen sub floor) turned out to be old
growth Doug Fir T&G but probably going to cover with backer & small
hex tile.

cheers
Bob

I think the big question has to be how you intend to finish the
floor and what the floor is (concrete or wood subfloor).

If it is concrete:
Razor blade scrape the floor and cap the previous adhesive.
Is the left over stuff black? - cutback adhesive, possible
asbestos. Cap with ARdex floor leveler or similar.

If it is wood subfloor:
If it will be ceramic tile, I would cap it with wonder board or
Ditra.
If you are applying any other type of flooring, I would suggest
capping the existing wood floor with sheet goods - mdf, plywood,
hardie board, etc - DO NOT BE STINGY WITH GLUE AND NAILS.
You can also skim out the adhesive area with one of the Ardex
products.

Here is some information:
http://www.ardex.com/default.asp
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
Keep the whole world singing . . .


"Han" wrote in message
...
Spouse has very nicely removed the ugly linoleum-type tiles from
the samll
powder room's floor. Now the wood shows, but is a bit sticky.
Before we
finish the floor, should we just sand, or is it better to remove
the
"sticky" with a solvent? Room has a window, and is less than
3x10 ft.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

DD_BobK wrote in
:

On Aug 8, 10:00*am, Han wrote:
Spouse has very nicely removed the ugly linoleum-type tiles from the
saml
l
powder room's floor. *Now the wood shows, but is a bit sticky. *Befor
e we
finish the floor, should we just sand, or is it better to remove the
"sticky" with a solvent? *Room has a window, and is less than 3x10
ft.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Han-

Before you try "solvent".... try warm water with very small amount of
soap (like dish washing liquid)

I remove my new linoleum (2004) then the "floor evening" 1/4" plywood
that had been nailed through the 1930 linoleum.
Then the 1930 linoleum which left about 1/2 wood showing & 1/2 partial
thickness of linoleum.

At first I tried various paint / varnish / linoleum remover, worked ok
but not great...... but a lucky accident got me using warm soapy
water.
I scrub brushed the residue with warn slightly soapy water, let it sit
a bit and shop vac up the watery mess.
Then scrape with a 4" flexible putty knife followed by a bit more
water and scrubbing with heavy rags.

It cleaned up very nicely.... to the point where I even considered
refinishing it but I'm not a huge fan of wood in a kitchen.

The "floor" (the original kitchen sub floor) turned out to be old
growth Doug Fir T&G but probably going to cover with backer & small
hex tile.

cheers
Bob

Thanks, guys. I think I'll try the warm soapy water first. The Zip-Up
door sounds great too, RicodJour.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid