The new socket (thing light bulb screws into) has, of course,
two screws for the ac-cord to wrap around and screwed
tight.

Polarized plug -- one "blade" regular, one wide.

Which one goes to the brass screw, which to the
silver-looking one?

THANKS!

David

On 7/29/2010 20:31, David Combs wrote:
The new socket (thing light bulb screws into) has, of course,
two screws for the ac-cord to wrap around and screwed
tight.

Polarized plug -- one "blade" regular, one wide.

Which one goes to the brass screw, which to the
silver-looking one?

Silver terminal - marked lead on cord - wide prong on plug - neutral
Brass terminal - unmarked lead on cord - narrow prong on plug - hot

The neutral goes to the sleeve (threaded) contact on the socket. This
reduces the severity of a shock if you touch the sleeve contact when
inserting or removing the bulb.
--

In article ,
Bob wrote:
On 7/29/2010 20:31, David Combs wrote:
The new socket (thing light bulb screws into) has, of course,
two screws for the ac-cord to wrap around and screwed
tight.

Polarized plug -- one "blade" regular, one wide.

Which one goes to the brass screw, which to the
silver-looking one?

Silver terminal - marked lead on cord - wide prong on plug - neutral
Brass terminal - unmarked lead on cord - narrow prong on plug - hot

The neutral goes to the sleeve (threaded) contact on the socket. This
reduces the severity of a shock if you touch the sleeve contact when

Right -- I read that in one of my fixit-books -- that you have to really
work at it to get your finger way in, touching that little contact
way at the back, comared to the sleeve.

inserting or removing the bulb.
--

Thanks for that!

Only one problem: there is NO marking on the cord, ZERO (and I'm looking
at it right now, for 2nd time) -- no marking on surrounding plastic/rubber/
whatever insulating wrap, NOR on either of the (stranded) wires enclosed.

No problema -- I just use one of my VOM's set on "resistance measuring",
and match up the two ends. Simple enough.

But it is strange that there is no other easy way to distinguish the
two sides -- the assumption being that the user is NEVER going to
even THINK about replacing the light socket.


Anyway, THANKS FOR THE INFO! I now go wire it up.


David

David Combs wrote:
In article ,
Bob wrote:
On 7/29/2010 20:31, David Combs wrote:
The new socket (thing light bulb screws into) has, of course,
two screws for the ac-cord to wrap around and screwed
tight.

Polarized plug -- one "blade" regular, one wide.

Which one goes to the brass screw, which to the
silver-looking one?
Silver terminal - marked lead on cord - wide prong on plug - neutral
Brass terminal - unmarked lead on cord - narrow prong on plug - hot

The neutral goes to the sleeve (threaded) contact on the socket. This
reduces the severity of a shock if you touch the sleeve contact when

Right -- I read that in one of my fixit-books -- that you have to really
work at it to get your finger way in, touching that little contact
way at the back, comared to the sleeve.

inserting or removing the bulb.
--

Thanks for that!

Only one problem: there is NO marking on the cord, ZERO (and I'm looking
at it right now, for 2nd time) -- no marking on surrounding plastic/rubber/
whatever insulating wrap, NOR on either of the (stranded) wires enclosed.

No problema -- I just use one of my VOM's set on "resistance measuring",
and match up the two ends. Simple enough.

But it is strange that there is no other easy way to distinguish the
two sides -- the assumption being that the user is NEVER going to
even THINK about replacing the light socket.


Anyway, THANKS FOR THE INFO! I now go wire it up.


David

If you look real carefully at most zip cords, one of the wires has one
or more small ridges running along the insulation. That is the
"identified" (neutral) conductor.

--
bud--