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Basic Microwave Repair?
On Jul 3, 6:29*pm, Chief Two Eagles wrote:
On Sat, 03 Jul 2010 15:20:18 -0700, Ulysses wrote: Hi everyone. *I read many web sites about testing and repairing microwave ovens and have concluded that my Sharp microwave has a bad diode and capacitor. *I checked the magnetron and, according to what I read, it's probably OK as I get a reading of about .4 ohms across the terminals and it is not shorted to the case. *However, I'm wondering if it is possible to test the magnetron with low voltage DC. *I assume that what is usually fed into it is 120 VAC rectified which I think will result in about 170 VDC. *If that's the case, then could 12 VDC be used just to verify the magnetron still works before spending money on other parts? *I ain't gonna do nothin' 'les someone says it's OK and explains how ;-) *The sympton right now is that it buzzes and blows the fuse so I'm thinking an open diode and shorted capacitor results in feeding 60 Hz AC to the magnetron thus causing the buzz. *Does that sound right? Thanks. Sounds right to me. If you replace the cap and diode why not do the mag too? They sag in output as they age so if you like the oven you have do it justice and replace all three components. Just make sure you don't handle the leads on the capacitor. It can store a nasty jolt. And you probably have a shorted diode if it blows the fuse. "Just make sure you don't handle the leads on the capacitor." I don't know what size caps are in a MW, but I used to work on transmitters that had high-voltage oil filled capacitors, like this...and bigger: http://www.recycledgoods.com/product...51850_zoom.jpg If you didn't put shorting straps across the taps as soon as you removed them from the equipment they would charge up to 5KV or more just sitting on the workbench in the transmitter building. We used to use a hi-pot and a dead-man stick to show the newbies why they should stay out of the transmitter building unless they were accompanied by a journeyman tech. We'd hook the grounding strap of a dead-man stick to one tap, charge the cap up to 2 or 3 KV and then touch the hook of the dead-man stick to the other tap. The resulting arc and *crack* would scare the crap out of the newbies. One time we charged the cap up too much and it blew the threaded rod of the dead-man stick right out of the handle. That one scared even us seasoned techs! |
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