In small buildings (such as a shed) what is the downside to covering
the entire roof with aluminum flashing before shingling? Perhaps
expensive? That's the only thing I can think of.
Any other negatives?
I want to protect the wood indefinitely.
Thanks.
Frank

frank1492 wrote:
In small buildings (such as a shed) what is the downside to covering
the entire roof with aluminum flashing before shingling? Perhaps
expensive? That's the only thing I can think of.
Any other negatives?
I want to protect the wood indefinitely.
Thanks.
Frank


Not a professional roofer here-- but it would seem to me that once you
drive the shingle nail through it, it's just extra weight on the roof...

Shaun wrote:
frank1492 wrote:
In small buildings (such as a shed) what is the downside to covering
the entire roof with aluminum flashing before shingling? Perhaps
expensive? That's the only thing I can think of.
Any other negatives?
I want to protect the wood indefinitely.
Thanks.
Frank

Not a professional roofer here-- but it would seem to me that once you
drive the shingle nail through it, it's just extra weight on the roof...
That was my first thought. If I want a durable shed roof and was willing
to pay the expense, I'd go to the roll-form roofing dealer, and get
panels the right length, and the proper clips and fasteners to tie it
all down with no penetrations through the metal facing the rainy sky. If
you can live with slightly 'off' colors, you can get the stuff amazingly
cheap. PITA to put up without helpers, and make sure everyone has
leather gloves, but quite durable.

--
aem sends...

--
aem sends...

On Tue, 08 Jun 2010 17:28:04 -0400, frank1492 wrote:

In small buildings (such as a shed) what is the downside to covering
the entire roof with aluminum flashing before shingling? Perhaps
expensive? That's the only thing I can think of.
Any other negatives?

There is no point. Flashing is to keep water from coming in seams and edges,
and wicking up from the bottom. It'll do nothing in the middle. If you are
really anal, use "Ice and Water Shield". This stuff is a heavy rubbery sort
of rolled roofing that sticks to the deck and seals the nail holes. It's
commonly used to seal the bottom 4' of a roof deck against ice dams. The
stuff is expensive, but will be a lot cheaper than flashing, which will do
nothing.

I want to protect the wood indefinitely.

That's a *long* time.

On 06/08/2010 06:45 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Tue, 08 Jun 2010 17:28:04 -0400, wrote:

In small buildings (such as a shed) what is the downside to covering
the entire roof with aluminum flashing before shingling? Perhaps
expensive? That's the only thing I can think of.
Any other negatives?

There is no point. Flashing is to keep water from coming in seams and edges,
and wicking up from the bottom. It'll do nothing in the middle. If you are
really anal, use "Ice and Water Shield". This stuff is a heavy rubbery sort
of rolled roofing that sticks to the deck and seals the nail holes. It's
commonly used to seal the bottom 4' of a roof deck against ice dams. The
stuff is expensive, but will be a lot cheaper than flashing, which will do
nothing.

I want to protect the wood indefinitely.

That's a *long* time.

If you are going for the brick ****house effect, you should be looking
at seamed steel or copper, and not shingles at all. Or perhaps slate,
if you can even find it.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On Jun 10, 5:42*pm, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 06/08/2010 06:45 PM, wrote:



On Tue, 08 Jun 2010 17:28:04 -0400, *wrote:

In small buildings (such as a shed) what is the downside to covering
the entire roof with aluminum flashing before shingling? Perhaps
expensive? That's the only thing I can think of.
* * *Any other negatives?

There is no point. *Flashing is to keep water from coming in seams and edges,
and wicking up from the bottom. *It'll do nothing in the middle. *If you are
really anal, use "Ice and Water Shield". *This stuff is a heavy rubbery sort
of rolled roofing that sticks to the deck and seals the nail holes. *It's
commonly used to seal the bottom 4' of a roof deck against ice dams. *The
stuff is expensive, but will be a lot cheaper than flashing, which will do
nothing.

* * *I want to protect the wood indefinitely.

That's a *long* time.

If you are going for the brick ****house effect, you should be looking
at seamed steel or copper, and not shingles at all. *Or perhaps slate,
if you can even find it.

Oohhh, copper, pretty. Thieves like it too.

Shingles are a simple job. Standing seam steel, not so much.

On Jun 8, 4:28*pm, frank1492 wrote:
In small buildings (such as a shed) what is the downside to covering
the entire roof with aluminum flashing before shingling? Perhaps
expensive? That's the only thing I can think of.
* * *Any other negatives?
* * *I want to protect the wood indefinitely.
* * Thanks.
* * * * *Frank *

Use Ice and Water Shield, it will fill in around all the holes from
the shingles, aluminum will not do that.

On Jun 8, 10:28�pm, frank1492 wrote:
In small buildings (such as a shed) what is the downside to covering
the entire roof with aluminum flashing before shingling? Perhaps
expensive? That's the only thing I can think of.
� � �Any other negatives?
� � �I want to protect the wood indefinitely.
� � Thanks.
� � � � �Frank �

To preseve wood the imporant thing is to prevent condensation by
allowing ventilation around the wood. You need to allow through
ventilation. Eves to ridge or side to side. Metal roofing is very
prone to condensation problems.

harry wrote:
On Jun 8, 10:28�pm, frank1492 wrote:
In small buildings (such as a shed) what is the downside to covering
the entire roof with aluminum flashing before shingling? Perhaps
expensive? That's the only thing I can think of.
� � �Any other negatives?
� � �I want to protect the wood indefinitely.
� � Thanks.
� � � � �Frank �

To preseve wood the imporant thing is to prevent condensation by
allowing ventilation around the wood. You need to allow through
ventilation. Eves to ridge or side to side. Metal roofing is very
prone to condensation problems.

I've read that without felt, shingles can also hold moisture in the
wood. Felt lets water vapor escape.

I've read that felt seals around nails. Someday as an experiment, I'd
like to cover a small roof with felt, nailing scraps of shingle on top
of it as battens. Rain would get under the pieces of shingle. After a
rainy spell, I'd remove everything and see if water had gotten to the wood.

On Jun 8, 7:26�pm, wrote:
On Tue, 08 Jun 2010 17:28:04 -0400, frank1492
wrote:

In small buildings (such as a shed) what is the downside to covering
the entire roof with aluminum flashing before shingling? Perhaps
expensive? That's the only thing I can think of.
� � Any other negatives?
� � I want to protect the wood indefinitely.
� �Thanks.
� � � � Frank �

No negatives, just no point to it.
If you're willing to pay for that, just put on a metal roof. �It's
likely to be cheaper in the end, and it will outlast all shingles.
It's not that hard to install either on a small and low shed without a
lot of gables and stuff. �All you need is the metal, neoprene screws,
a power drill with 1/4" hex tip, and a tin snips. Smaller sheets of
steel are lighter than shingles too.

bithane rather than tar paper. it sticks to the wood and all nail
holes are self sealing

its expensive but worth it espically if your covering chipboard, which
disengrates if it gets wet

On Tue, 8 Jun 2010 16:48:42 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Jun 8, 7:26?pm, wrote:
On Tue, 08 Jun 2010 17:28:04 -0400, frank1492
wrote:

In small buildings (such as a shed) what is the downside to covering
the entire roof with aluminum flashing before shingling? Perhaps
expensive? That's the only thing I can think of.
? ? Any other negatives?
? ? I want to protect the wood indefinitely.
? ?Thanks.
? ? ? ? Frank ?

No negatives, just no point to it.
If you're willing to pay for that, just put on a metal roof. ?It's
likely to be cheaper in the end, and it will outlast all shingles.
It's not that hard to install either on a small and low shed without a
lot of gables and stuff. ?All you need is the metal, neoprene screws,
a power drill with 1/4" hex tip, and a tin snips. Smaller sheets of
steel are lighter than shingles too.

bithane rather than tar paper. it sticks to the wood and all nail
holes are self sealing

its expensive but worth it espically if your covering chipboard, which
disengrates if it gets wet

Using chipboard on a roof is just plain stupid. Eventually all roofs
will leak, especially shingles. By the time the leak is noticed the
chipboard is usually ruined. So instead of applying some tar or a
couple new shingles, you end up ripping the whole roof apart. Not
only that, but shingle nails dont hold well in the stuff.

Personally I dont think much about chipboard for ANY buildings. Water
gets to it and its shot. Its fine for cheap cabinets and furniture,
but not for roofs or floors. When I was in the repair business, I was
constantly replacing large sections of floor in mobile homes because
most of them use that crap for the floor. I put my leg thru more than
one of those floors. Usually by doors or in bathrooms. I'd patch
them with 3/4" plywood, and cover the whole floor with 1/2" plywood.

Now, what is bithane? I never heard of it.

Thanks to all for your thoughts. I will probably use conventional felt
paper, but am looking into fire and ice.
Frank