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Lightening strike neaby -- some damage
On Jun 4, 11:45*am, Frank wrote:
On Jun 4, 10:43*am, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote: We had a near lightening strike that sent a surge though the power lines. Not sure where the hit was, but I did have some damage. My wife called me at work after a thunderstorm and said she saw a big red ball in the driveway and then some of the lights went out. *The doorbell rang and would not stop ringing. *I told her to take a wire off the chimes and they stopped, but a breaker was tripped and would not reset. *The bell button has a diode in it and that may have taken the hit. When I got home, I took the two wires off of the breaker and it still did not reset so I replaced the breaker. *One of the circuits was OK, the other had a short and tripped the breaker. *Since it was not getting dark and it was still raining, the hunt would wait a day. *Next day, I went out to the (detached) garage and found an X-10 module I use to control an outdoor light was blown apart and burnt. *The plastic cover was gone, the insides were soot covered. * I'm wondering if the jolt came in that way or out, it was the furthest away from the electric panel. I'm going to replace the receptacle it was plugged into also. *I've not pulled that out yet, but I'm not taking any chances. *Once replaced. I'll hook the wire back to the breaker. Losses we *HD TV, Surround sound receiver, X-10 module, computer router, doorbell. The good news is: *I now have a 47" TV with far better picture than my 5 year old 32" and a better sound system. More stuff is on surge protectors too. I've got all my electronic stuff on surge protectors and APC's. *Don't like the idea of a whole house protector as I've seen them get knocked out and then you are at the mercy of getting in an electrician. Like the smaller point of use surge protectors can't also be overcome by a surge? I'd rather have the first line of defense be a 50K amp capable one than a much smaller rated strip type protector. They are good as a second line of defense and to keep all wires clamped to the same level, ie AC, cable TV, phone, etc. But they are no match for a big one at the panel. Also power company is reticent to take any blame even when it is their fault because they saved money in tree trimming. *And, with a $500 insurance deductible plus value proration, insurance company is a PITA too.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - The same thing still applies if you have a plug-in surge protector or APC. Almost all these companies are not very good at paying out claims. |
#2
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Lightening strike neaby -- some damage
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#4
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Lightening strike neaby -- some damage
Tony wrote:
I've probably repaired 50 or so pinball machines that the symptom is after the lightning, it blows the breaker. The MOV is melted together. Most of the machines had no further damage. I forget the joules but radio shack had little ones and big ones. The equipment usually had the smaller ones but I only carried the larger ones for replacement. Some of the newer machines have the main fuse before the MOV, where it should be! Then there were others that didn't realize the breaker was tripped and after resetting it, the machine came to life. Many times the MOV was blown in half, and still there was no more damage. I'm talking some pretty sensitive electronics too. Probably a lot more sophisticated than most people think. Normal failure mode for a MOV is to start conducting at lower voltages until it conducts on normal voltage and goes into thermal runaway and essentially shorts. I used to have a homemade plug-in surge suppressor made with MOVs. I retired it because it didn't have good protection from failing MOVs. Since 1998, UL has required thermal disconnects for failing MOVs in UL1449 listed surge suppressors. For a pinball machine I would want a fuse upstream from the MOV and electronics (like you said). If the MOV fails the fuse blows (if properly designed), the machine is disconnected, and you can't just reset a breaker. -- bud-- |
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