I think this is the newsgroup traditionally used for appliance questions, so
hopefully this is acceptably on-target.

The Kenmore-branded Whirpool dryer (110.79912900) hasn't been doing well in
recent months, taking unacceptably long to dry loads while still clearly
putting out some heat. Obviously, the first thing I did was to pull the
skins, clean out the usual amount of congealed lint inside the filter screen
area, and leaf-blower the entirety of the interior. Happily it is right up
against the exterior garage wall with a real short duct to the outside, and
that is totally clean.

I observe that when started, the igniter comes on, I get a nice flame for
three or four minutes, and then it goes out. But unlike the typical (as I
understand it) coil failure, the process repeats, but not for several minutes.
No wonder the drying takes so long - the gas should be burning considerably
more frequently than I'm observing and it's thus blowing lukewarm air for much
of the cycle.

I first thought that this still could be an issue with the coils, and found a
web site that tabulated typical resistance values to the various combinations
of terminals on the three-post and two-post coils. To my surprise, all were
dead on. So I assume the coils are fine.

So now it's time to ask for some assistance. My next thought is the pair of
thermostats inside. I haven't pulled them or tested them in any way yet, as
they're harder to reach than the coils. Is this a valid next step? Would it
be most likely the low-temp (155 degree) thermostat not reacting quickly
enough to the drop in temperature after the flame has been turned off?

Advice welcome.

Art

On Feb 23, 1:55*pm, (Arthur Shapiro) wrote:
I think this is the newsgroup traditionally used for appliance questions, so
hopefully this is acceptably on-target.

The Kenmore-branded Whirpool dryer (110.79912900) hasn't been doing well in
recent months, taking unacceptably long to dry loads while still clearly
putting out some heat. *Obviously, the first thing I did was to pull the
skins, clean out the usual amount of congealed lint inside the filter screen
area, and leaf-blower the entirety of the interior. *Happily it is right up
against the exterior garage wall with a real short duct to the outside, and
that is totally clean.

I observe that when started, the igniter comes on, I get a nice flame for
three or four minutes, and then it goes out. *But unlike the typical (as I
understand it) coil failure, the process repeats, but not for several minutes.
*No wonder the drying takes so long - the gas should be burning considerably
more frequently than I'm observing and it's thus blowing lukewarm air for much
of the cycle.

I first thought that this still could be an issue with the coils, and found a
web site that tabulated typical resistance values to the various combinations
of terminals on the three-post and two-post coils. *To my surprise, all were
dead on. *So I assume the coils are fine.

So now it's time to ask for some assistance. *My next thought is the pair of
thermostats inside. *I haven't pulled them or tested them in any way yet, as
they're harder to reach than the coils. *Is this a valid next step? *Would it
be most likely the low-temp (155 degree) thermostat not reacting quickly
enough to the drop in temperature after the flame has been turned off?

Advice welcome.

Art

It could also be the timer is intermittent. My timer on my gas dryer
had bad contacts inside, these contacts is what completes the circuit
so the gas valves can open, and let the gas come on. So just keep that
in mind too while troubleshooting.
How does it dry in the other cycles? Try the "Timed" cycle. For some
reason, when I had the timer problem, it would be fine in "Timed"
mode, but not "Auto". The contacts are configured different for each
cycle.

In article , Mikepier wrote:

How does it dry in the other cycles? Try the "Timed" cycle. For some
reason, when I had the timer problem, it would be fine in "Timed"
mode, but not "Auto".

Thanks for the suggestion. I should have mentioned that behavior on "timed"
is equivalently bad to that on the normal settings. At times I have felt that
the "high" setting performance is worse than the next-lower "permanent press"
setting, but I'm not totally convinced of that.

Art

On Feb 23, 1:39*pm, (Arthur Shapiro) wrote:
In article , Mikepier wrote:

How does it dry in the other cycles? Try the "Timed" cycle. For some
reason, when I had the timer problem, it would be fine in "Timed"
mode, but not "Auto".

Thanks for the suggestion. *I should have mentioned that behavior on "timed"
is equivalently bad to that on the normal settings. *At times I have felt that
the "high" setting performance is worse than the next-lower "permanent press"
setting, but I'm not totally convinced of that.

Art

Sure sounds like a thermostat issue tio me.

Arthur Shapiro wrote:
I think this is the newsgroup traditionally used for appliance
questions, so hopefully this is acceptably on-target.

The Kenmore-branded Whirpool dryer (110.79912900) hasn't been doing
well in recent months, taking unacceptably long to dry loads while
still clearly putting out some heat. Obviously, the first thing I
did was to pull the skins, clean out the usual amount of congealed
lint inside the filter screen area, and leaf-blower the entirety of
the interior. Happily it is right up against the exterior garage
wall with a real short duct to the outside, and that is totally clean.

I observe that when started, the igniter comes on, I get a nice flame
for three or four minutes, and then it goes out. But unlike the
typical (as I understand it) coil failure, the process repeats, but
not for several minutes. No wonder the drying takes so long - the gas
should be burning considerably more frequently than I'm observing and
it's thus blowing lukewarm air for much of the cycle.

I first thought that this still could be an issue with the coils, and
found a web site that tabulated typical resistance values to the
various combinations of terminals on the three-post and two-post
coils. To my surprise, all were dead on. So I assume the coils are
fine.

So now it's time to ask for some assistance. My next thought is the
pair of thermostats inside. I haven't pulled them or tested them in
any way yet, as they're harder to reach than the coils. Is this a
valid next step? Would it be most likely the low-temp (155 degree)
thermostat not reacting quickly enough to the drop in temperature
after the flame has been turned off?


1st thing I'd do is drag it outside, and blow out every air passage and all
spaces around the drum thoroughly with an air compressor or leaf blower. I've
fixed 2 slow drying dryers that way.

That's a novel approach. Of course, dryers get
clogged with lint. And air flow is a concern.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Bob F"
wrote in message
...

1st thing I'd do is drag it outside, and blow out
every air passage and all
spaces around the drum thoroughly with an air
compressor or leaf blower. I've
fixed 2 slow drying dryers that way.

In article , "Stormin Mormon" wrote:
That's a novel approach. Of course, dryers get
clogged with lint.

That's why I stated that I'd leaf-blowered it inside and out. I hit it as
best as possible from the output end and from the filter end after removing
the filter shroud. The thing is pretty clean.

I ordered both thermostats today, although it isn't immediately obvious to me
how to get to the rear one, and even the front one is going to be awkward. I
fear the entire cabinet has to be removed, and that process isn't blatantly
apparent.

BTW, leaf blowers do wonders on desktop computers. I've had folks concerned
about static electricity affecting delicate componentry, but I personally
haven't had any issues.

Art

On 2/23/2010 19:58, Arthur Shapiro wrote:
I ordered both thermostats today, although it isn't immediately obvious to me
how to get to the rear one, and even the front one is going to be awkward. I
fear the entire cabinet has to be removed, and that process isn't blatantly
apparent.

My guess is the valve coils. You can confirm by measuring the voltage
coming in to the coil assembly, which includes the ignitor and flame
sensor. If voltage is present after the gas cuts out prematurely, the
trouble is in the valve assembly.

If the trouble isn't with the thermostat(s), your parts supplier may
take them back if the packages are unopened.

--
My return address has no numeric zero

Arthur Shapiro wrote:
I think this is the newsgroup traditionally used for appliance questions, so
hopefully this is acceptably on-target.

The Kenmore-branded Whirpool dryer (110.79912900) hasn't been doing well in
recent months, taking unacceptably long to dry loads while still clearly
putting out some heat. Obviously, the first thing I did was to pull the
skins, clean out the usual amount of congealed lint inside the filter screen
area, and leaf-blower the entirety of the interior. Happily it is right up
against the exterior garage wall with a real short duct to the outside, and
that is totally clean.

I observe that when started, the igniter comes on, I get a nice flame for
three or four minutes, and then it goes out. But unlike the typical (as I
understand it) coil failure, the process repeats, but not for several minutes.
No wonder the drying takes so long - the gas should be burning considerably
more frequently than I'm observing and it's thus blowing lukewarm air for much
of the cycle.

I first thought that this still could be an issue with the coils, and found a
web site that tabulated typical resistance values to the various combinations
of terminals on the three-post and two-post coils. To my surprise, all were
dead on. So I assume the coils are fine.

So now it's time to ask for some assistance. My next thought is the pair of
thermostats inside. I haven't pulled them or tested them in any way yet, as
they're harder to reach than the coils. Is this a valid next step? Would it
be most likely the low-temp (155 degree) thermostat not reacting quickly
enough to the drop in temperature after the flame has been turned off?

Advice welcome.

Art

I had the same problem with my gas dryer. The coil resistance read fine
but the gas would only stay on for a few minutes. When the coils got
warm though, one of them went open circuit till it cooled off. I bought
a new set of coils at the local appliance parts store for about $25 and
everything worked fine. The coils fail frequently so they had a supply
of them right up front.

-Mike

In article , Mike M wrote:

I had the same problem ... I bought
a new set of coils at the local appliance parts store for about $25 and
everything worked fine.

Thanks for the report. I guess I'd best wait to see if the thermostats fix
the problem. If not, you've convinced me to try the coils.

Art

It is not the thermostats. You are wasting your money. I can think
of only two reasons to have your symptoms:

It is not the stats. You are wasting your money. I can think of only
two reasons for your symptoms:

1. Coils. They are almost impossible to test via ohms. Just replace
them as pair.
2. Restricted ducting. But you said that the vent connector is short
to the outside. So, go to #1.

NSP

On Feb 24, 11:53*am, (Arthur Shapiro) wrote:
In article , Mike M wrote:
I had the same problem ... I bought
a new set of coils at the local appliance parts store for about $25 and
everything worked fine.

Thanks for the report. *I guess I'd best wait to see if the thermostats fix
the problem. *If not, you've convinced me to try the coils.

Art

I had the same problem. I went to a local appliance parts store and
asked for the thermostat. The nice lady behind the counter asked me
what the dryer was doing.

When I described the same symptoms as you she said "I could sell you a
thermostat for (I forget how much) but it's almost always the valve
coils and they are much, much cheaper. If it were my dryer, I'd try
the coils first."

I did, and she was right.

In article , DerbyDad03 wrote:

I did, and she was right.

Oh well...they came in today's mail, so I might as well install the
thermostats. Got 'em at a quite reasonable price on eBay, so I've wasted less
than twenty bucks. Getting to them looks like quite a hassle, but...

When / if that fails to cure the problem, I'll pick up a set of coils and
install them.

If things are still bad, and I don't expect that, is it time to call in the
pros?

Art

Arthur Shapiro wrote:
In article
,
DerbyDad03 wrote:

I did, and she was right.

Oh well...they came in today's mail, so I might as well install the
thermostats. Got 'em at a quite reasonable price on eBay, so I've
wasted less
than twenty bucks. Getting to them looks like quite a hassle, but...

When / if that fails to cure the problem, I'll pick up a set of coils
and
install them.

If things are still bad, and I don't expect that, is it time to call
in the
pros?


That's a question for alt.hvac. :-)

Worth noting, that alt.hvac is a usenet group
similar to alt.home.repair; the folks who post
there are HVAC professionals, and who answer
questions on money saving, from home owners.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Bob F" wrote in message
...
Arthur Shapiro wrote:
In article

Oh well...they came in today's mail, so I might
as well install the
thermostats. Got 'em at a quite reasonable
price on eBay, so I've
wasted less
than twenty bucks. Getting to them looks like
quite a hassle, but...

When / if that fails to cure the problem, I'll
pick up a set of coils
and
install them.

If things are still bad, and I don't expect
that, is it time to call
in the
pros?


That's a question for alt.hvac. :-)

Evil ! Evil ! Evil!

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
message ...
Worth noting, that alt.hvac is a usenet group
similar to alt.home.repair; the folks who post
there are HVAC professionals, and who answer
questions on money saving, from home owners.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


"Bob F" wrote in message
...
Arthur Shapiro wrote:
In article

Oh well...they came in today's mail, so I might
as well install the
thermostats. Got 'em at a quite reasonable
price on eBay, so I've
wasted less
than twenty bucks. Getting to them looks like
quite a hassle, but...

When / if that fails to cure the problem, I'll
pick up a set of coils
and
install them.

If things are still bad, and I don't expect
that, is it time to call
in the
pros?


That's a question for alt.hvac. :-)

Like with most jokes. I have to pass it along, or
I'm left holding the bag. It would be unpatriotic
of me, not to.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"DanG" wrote in message
...
Evil ! Evil ! Evil!

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Stormin Mormon"
wrote in
message
...
Worth noting, that alt.hvac is a usenet group
similar to alt.home.repair; the folks who post
there are HVAC professionals, and who answer
questions on money saving, from home owners.

In article , "Stormin Mormon" wrote:
Like with most jokes. I have to pass it along, or
I'm left holding the bag. It would be unpatriotic
of me, not to.

Well, I know enough about that newsgroup to know it's the most hostile,
cliqueish, unfriendly group on Usenet, unless it has changed in recent years.

I was quite busy all weekend, but hope to tear the dryer apart during the
week. There's apparently no way to access both thermostats without pulling
the cabinet.

Art

Alternating havoc hasn't changed a bit. You can
depend on prompt, courteous replies to questions
about replacing thermostats on a Do It Yourself
basis. Replies which which will make you think
that your own grand mother is writing them. You
know, the granny who totes a shotgun, brews her
own moonshine, and learned her speech patterns and
cadence from barending for the Pakistani military.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Arthur Shapiro" wrote in
message ...
In article
,
"Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Like with most jokes. I have to pass it along, or
I'm left holding the bag. It would be unpatriotic
of me, not to.

Well, I know enough about that newsgroup to know
it's the most hostile,
cliqueish, unfriendly group on Usenet, unless it
has changed in recent years.

I was quite busy all weekend, but hope to tear the
dryer apart during the
week. There's apparently no way to access both
thermostats without pulling
the cabinet.

Art

For those who remember this thread, I had decided that, since the coils
measured fine with a VOM, that they must be right and I ordered the two
thermostats. Subsequently, it was suggested that, measurements or not, the
coils were still the most likely culprit.

I just spent three hours replacing the thermostats. Ended up with two
brass-colored snap-in "buttons" that clearly cover holes somewhere inside -
I'll have to check a parts blowup to see where they go.

The behavior, as feared, hasn't changed. At least I was able to vaccum out a
vast amount of lint that wasn't accessible until the drum was removed.

The coils are now on order.

What a waste of part of a vacation day.

Art

For what it's worth:

My gas dryer (Maytag Neptune) did essentially the same thing that
yours did, at about the same time (early march). The gas would light
up, but for only a few (5) seconds, and therefore the dryer never got
hot.

I looked at this thread and figured out that I should replace the
coils. I did. That did not work.

I found out that the Maytag (and possibly many other gas dryers) have
a flame sensor, that mounts near the ignitor, on the shield, and it
can go bad. I changed that as well.

Seems to work OK now.

Thanks for your collective help.

Pierre

In article , pierre wrote:

I found out that the Maytag (and possibly many other gas dryers) have
a flame sensor, that mounts near the ignitor, on the shield, and it
can go bad. I changed that as well.

Seems to work OK now.

Thanks for your observation - one more thing for me to ponder if necessary.

I'm hoping the coils arrive in tomorrow's mail, but my wife just used the
dryer and asked me "what did you do to make the dryer start working?"
Needless to say, I'm totally confused now because the observable behavior
(with no clothes inside) didn't seem to have changed. But she's really happy
with the load she ran tonight.

I'm still going to replace the coils, as I paid for 'em and it surely can't
hurt. But I'm still trying to make sense of all this.

Art