Hi,

I have a Beko "DE 2541 FX" slimline dishwasher. The upper arm is
not turning/spinning/rotating, even though water pours out the spray
arm's holes.

I have thoroughly cleaned the entire dishwasher compartment: the
door, the inside walls, the sump and filters, the upper and lower trays,
the arms, just about everything.

Now the bottom spray arm works fine, goes merrily round and round
spraying just dandy. If I give the bottom spray arm a good flick of the
thumb, it spins freely and will do nine or ten complete revolutions
until it stops. The upper arm is harder to turn, I can get it to rotate
two or three times at most. I couldn't really say under oath that it
turns "freely".

Should the upper spray arm rotate more freely?

The two arms are differently designed. The bottom spray arm is
simpler -- it's all plastic and just "clicks" into position. The upper
spray arm is slightly more complicated. The central hub is formed of
three interlocking snap-together parts: 1) the long arm; 2) the
bayonet-lock disc with o-ring; 3) the centre hole piece. The upper
spray arm has a bayonet/"screw on" way of being attached. When I
cleaned the upper arm, I had to pull out six or so hairs that were
wrapped around the bayonet disc and centre-hole piece that form the hub.
When the arm is assembled at the factory, the centre-hole snaps into
the arm -- trapping and securing the bayonet-lock disc -- in such a way
that you can't get at the snaps again to disassemble it. It makes it a
bugger to clean the hub of hairs that have gotten wrapped around there!
I have soaked the upper spray arm in hot vinegar for 12 hours.

**** If anyone has a Beko dishwasher, I would be most grateful if
you could post the results of flicking the upper and lower spray arms on
your machine. (Be prepared for a few drops of water to fly out!) How
many complete revolutions does each do when you give a good flick with
the thumb or finger? ****

With kind regards,

Sandy

"Usenet" wrote in message ...
Hi,

I have a Beko "DE 2541 FX" slimline dishwasher. The upper arm is not turning/spinning/rotating, even though water pours out
the spray arm's holes.

I have thoroughly cleaned the entire dishwasher compartment: the door, the inside walls, the sump and filters, the upper and
lower trays, the arms, just about everything.

Now the bottom spray arm works fine, goes merrily round and round spraying just dandy. If I give the bottom spray arm a good
flick of the thumb, it spins freely and will do nine or ten complete revolutions until it stops. The upper arm is harder to turn,
I can get it to rotate two or three times at most. I couldn't really say under oath that it turns "freely".

Should the upper spray arm rotate more freely?

The two arms are differently designed. The bottom spray arm is simpler -- it's all plastic and just "clicks" into position.
The upper spray arm is slightly more complicated. The central hub is formed of three interlocking snap-together parts: 1) the
long arm; 2) the bayonet-lock disc with o-ring; 3) the centre hole piece. The upper spray arm has a bayonet/"screw on" way of
being attached. When I cleaned the upper arm, I had to pull out six or so hairs that were wrapped around the bayonet disc and
centre-hole piece that form the hub. When the arm is assembled at the factory, the centre-hole snaps into the arm -- trapping and
securing the bayonet-lock disc -- in such a way that you can't get at the snaps again to disassemble it. It makes it a bugger to
clean the hub of hairs that have gotten wrapped around there! I have soaked the upper spray arm in hot vinegar for 12 hours.

**** If anyone has a Beko dishwasher, I would be most grateful if you could post the results of flicking the upper and lower
spray arms on your machine. (Be prepared for a few drops of water to fly out!) How many complete revolutions does each do when
you give a good flick with the thumb or finger? ****

With kind regards,

Sandy

I had almost the exact same symptoms on my dishwasher, unknown make but
not Beco, and also posted here. Had the same concerns as you about friction etc.
I could find no actual fault and a cure was
found by cleaning out the sump filter and running the machine empty (of dishes)
for a few cycles. I think it was a build-up of grease in the pipe that feeds the
water spigot at the top of the machine. It looked as though the volume of
water pouring into the top spray-arm was sufficient, but clearly it needed a little more
to rotate it reliably.

--
Graham.

%Profound_observation%

On Feb 6, 6:53*pm, "Graham." wrote:
"Usenet" wrote in ...
Hi,

* * I have a Beko "DE 2541 FX" slimline dishwasher. *The upper arm is not turning/spinning/rotating, even though water pours out
the spray arm's holes.

* * I have thoroughly cleaned the entire dishwasher compartment: the door, the inside walls, the sump and filters, the upper and
lower trays, the arms, just about everything.

* * Now the bottom spray arm works fine, goes merrily round and round spraying just dandy. *If I give the bottom spray arm a good
flick of the thumb, it spins freely and will do nine or ten complete revolutions until it stops. *The upper arm is harder to turn,
I can get it to rotate two or three times at most. *I couldn't really say under oath that it turns "freely".

* * Should the upper spray arm rotate more freely?

* * The two arms are differently designed. *The bottom spray arm is simpler -- it's all plastic and just "clicks" into position.
The upper spray arm is slightly more complicated. *The central hub is formed of three interlocking snap-together parts: 1) the
long arm; 2) the bayonet-lock disc with o-ring; 3) the centre hole piece. *The upper spray arm has a bayonet/"screw on" way of
being attached. *When I cleaned the upper arm, I had to pull out six or so hairs that were wrapped around the bayonet disc and
centre-hole piece that form the hub. When the arm is assembled at the factory, the centre-hole snaps into the arm -- trapping and
securing the bayonet-lock disc -- in such a way that you can't get at the snaps again to disassemble it. *It makes it a bugger to
clean the hub of hairs that have gotten wrapped around there! I have soaked the upper spray arm in hot vinegar for 12 hours.

* * **** If anyone has a Beko dishwasher, I would be most grateful if you could post the results of flicking the upper and lower
spray arms on your machine. *(Be prepared for a few drops of water to fly out!) *How many complete revolutions does each do when
you give a good flick with the thumb or finger? ****

With kind regards,

Sandy

I had almost the exact same symptoms on my dishwasher, unknown make but
not Beco, and also posted here. Had the same concerns as you about friction etc.
I could find no actual fault and a cure was
found by cleaning out the sump filter and running the machine empty (of dishes)
for a few cycles. I think it was a build-up of grease in the pipe that feeds the
water spigot at the top of the machine. It looked as though the volume of
water pouring into the top spray-arm was sufficient, but clearly it needed a little more
to rotate it reliably.

--
Graham.

%Profound_observation%- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Does the upper arm get its water from a tube from the main pump, or
does it get its water from an extendable center post that comes up
from the center of the bottom washer arm when the water is under
pressure. The upper arm should spin "freely". How do you get hairs
in a dishwasher???

On 07/02/2010 04:20, hr(bob) wrote:
On Feb 6, 6:53 pm, wrote:
wrote in ...
Hi,

I have a Beko "DE 2541 FX" slimline dishwasher. The upper arm is not turning/spinning/rotating, even though water pours out
the spray arm's holes.

I have thoroughly cleaned the entire dishwasher compartment: the door, the inside walls, the sump and filters, the upper and
lower trays, the arms, just about everything.

Now the bottom spray arm works fine, goes merrily round and round spraying just dandy. If I give the bottom spray arm a good
flick of the thumb, it spins freely and will do nine or ten complete revolutions until it stops. The upper arm is harder to turn,
I can get it to rotate two or three times at most. I couldn't really say under oath that it turns "freely".

Should the upper spray arm rotate more freely?

The two arms are differently designed. The bottom spray arm is simpler -- it's all plastic and just "clicks" into position.
The upper spray arm is slightly more complicated. The central hub is formed of three interlocking snap-together parts: 1) the
long arm; 2) the bayonet-lock disc with o-ring; 3) the centre hole piece. The upper spray arm has a bayonet/"screw on" way of
being attached. When I cleaned the upper arm, I had to pull out six or so hairs that were wrapped around the bayonet disc and
centre-hole piece that form the hub. When the arm is assembled at the factory, the centre-hole snaps into the arm -- trapping and
securing the bayonet-lock disc -- in such a way that you can't get at the snaps again to disassemble it. It makes it a bugger to
clean the hub of hairs that have gotten wrapped around there! I have soaked the upper spray arm in hot vinegar for 12 hours.

**** If anyone has a Beko dishwasher, I would be most grateful if you could post the results of flicking the upper and lower
spray arms on your machine. (Be prepared for a few drops of water to fly out!) How many complete revolutions does each do when
you give a good flick with the thumb or finger? ****

With kind regards,

Sandy

I had almost the exact same symptoms on my dishwasher, unknown make but
not Beco, and also posted here. Had the same concerns as you about friction etc.
I could find no actual fault and a cure was
found by cleaning out the sump filter and running the machine empty (of dishes)
for a few cycles. I think it was a build-up of grease in the pipe that feeds the
water spigot at the top of the machine. It looked as though the volume of
water pouring into the top spray-arm was sufficient, but clearly it needed a little more
to rotate it reliably.

--
Graham.

%Profound_observation%- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Does the upper arm get its water from a tube from the main pump, or
does it get its water from an extendable center post that comes up
from the center of the bottom washer arm when the water is under
pressure. The upper arm should spin "freely". How do you get hairs
in a dishwasher???



Stop washing your dog in the machine? :-)

Bod

Usenet wrote:

I have a Beko "DE 2541 FX" slimline dishwasher. The upper arm is
not turning/spinning/rotating, even though water pours out the spray
arm's holes.

I have thoroughly cleaned the entire dishwasher compartment: the
door, the inside walls, the sump and filters, the upper and lower trays,
the arms, just about everything.

I'd still strongly recommend you run it on an empty cycle using one of
those 'deep clean' bottles of dishwasher cleaner on as hot/long a cycle
as possible. I was very scornful of those until I was advised to use
them every couple of months by a dishwasher engineer after I was
suffering similar symptoms to you.... when he visited to repair ours, he
found pipes almost completely clogged with grease, which you wouldn't
get at unless you took the machine apart.

I now use them regularly with much better results than before.

David

Lobster
wibbled on Sunday 07 February 2010 09:45

Usenet wrote:

I have a Beko "DE 2541 FX" slimline dishwasher. The upper arm is
not turning/spinning/rotating, even though water pours out the spray
arm's holes.

I have thoroughly cleaned the entire dishwasher compartment: the
door, the inside walls, the sump and filters, the upper and lower trays,
the arms, just about everything.

I'd still strongly recommend you run it on an empty cycle using one of
those 'deep clean' bottles of dishwasher cleaner on as hot/long a cycle
as possible. I was very scornful of those until I was advised to use
them every couple of months by a dishwasher engineer after I was
suffering similar symptoms to you.... when he visited to repair ours, he
found pipes almost completely clogged with grease, which you wouldn't
get at unless you took the machine apart.

I now use them regularly with much better results than before.

David

I do mine once per month - taking the filter assembly out the bottom and
arranging on the shelf.

I don't know what's in the cleaner but it does shift the crap. Another tip
is to stop the machine once it's up to temperature and the bottle has
dispensed the cleaner - use a j-cloth or sponge soaked in the cleaner to go
round the door seals and hinges.

--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

[snipped all the cross-posts]
Lobster wrote:

-snip-
I'd still strongly recommend you run it on an empty cycle using one of
those 'deep clean' bottles of dishwasher cleaner on as hot/long a cycle
as possible. I was very scornful of those until I was advised to use
them every couple of months by a dishwasher engineer after I was
suffering similar symptoms to you.... when he visited to repair ours, he
found pipes almost completely clogged with grease, which you wouldn't
get at unless you took the machine apart.

I now use them regularly with much better results than before.


Anyone else do this? I've had my Whirlpool going for 7-8 years now &
never used a cleaner.

But I have replaced a few grinders, but it never seems to be greasy.
[a nail was caught in the last dead one--- and someone wondered how
hair got into the OPs dishwasher]

Probably a lot to do with detergent, water chemistry & how you use the
dishwasher, but I wonder if I'm the only guy who doesn't wash his
dishwasher.

Jim

On Feb 7, 8:10*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
[snipped all the cross-posts]

Lobster wrote:

-snip-

I'd still strongly recommend you run it on an empty cycle using one of
those 'deep clean' bottles of dishwasher cleaner on as hot/long a cycle
as possible. *I was very scornful of those until I was advised to use
them every couple of months by a dishwasher engineer after I was
suffering similar symptoms to you.... when he visited to repair ours, he
found pipes almost completely clogged with grease, which you wouldn't
get at unless you took the machine apart.

I now use them regularly with much better results than before.

Anyone else do this? * I've had my Whirlpool going for 7-8 years now &
never used a cleaner.


I tried using one a month ago. I was having problems where glassware
was coming out very spotted. I did some investigating and found
loads of grease below the metal filter at the bottom. I removed the
lower spray arm, the filter scree, cleaned everything I could get
to. But, I figured there must be even more in places I can't get
to. So, I bought the cleaner, which seems to consist of citric
acid. Ran it with the hottest water I could get and added extra heat
cycle.

After doing the manual clean and using the cleaner, the next few loads
were better than previous, but still not real good. After that,
things got back to normal. So, can't say for sure if it was the
manual cleaning, the cleaner. More likely it was a combo of the two.

Another conclusion I've come to is to at least occasionally use very
hot water right from the start and select extra heat. Normally, the
dishes come out fine if I just start the dishwasher on a normal cycle
and don't let the faucet run to get hot water there. It;s a long run
to the water heater, and I'm sure the first cycle is tepid at best,
the second is still probably not at 130 either. I really didn't care
because the dishes were coming out clean and I figured I'm saving
energy. But I would suspect that over time that might allow grease
to build-up because the water isn't hot enough to keep it suspended.

To the OP, it would seem to me the upper arm should spin about freely
by hand. If it isn't I would suspect that either there is some
material in there or something has worn out.

On 2/7/2010 9:53 AM,
wrote:
On Feb 7, 8:10 am, Jim wrote:
[snipped all the cross-posts]

wrote:

-snip-

I'd still strongly recommend you run it on an empty cycle using one of
those 'deep clean' bottles of dishwasher cleaner on as hot/long a cycle
as possible. I was very scornful of those until I was advised to use
them every couple of months by a dishwasher engineer after I was
suffering similar symptoms to you.... when he visited to repair ours, he
found pipes almost completely clogged with grease, which you wouldn't
get at unless you took the machine apart.

I now use them regularly with much better results than before.

Anyone else do this? I've had my Whirlpool going for 7-8 years now&
never used a cleaner.


I tried using one a month ago. I was having problems where glassware
was coming out very spotted. I did some investigating and found
loads of grease below the metal filter at the bottom. I removed the
lower spray arm, the filter scree, cleaned everything I could get
to. But, I figured there must be even more in places I can't get
to. So, I bought the cleaner, which seems to consist of citric
acid. Ran it with the hottest water I could get and added extra heat
cycle.

After doing the manual clean and using the cleaner, the next few loads
were better than previous, but still not real good. After that,
things got back to normal. So, can't say for sure if it was the
manual cleaning, the cleaner. More likely it was a combo of the two.

Another conclusion I've come to is to at least occasionally use very
hot water right from the start and select extra heat. Normally, the
dishes come out fine if I just start the dishwasher on a normal cycle
and don't let the faucet run to get hot water there. It;s a long run
to the water heater, and I'm sure the first cycle is tepid at best,
the second is still probably not at 130 either. I really didn't care
because the dishes were coming out clean and I figured I'm saving
energy. But I would suspect that over time that might allow grease
to build-up because the water isn't hot enough to keep it suspended.

To the OP, it would seem to me the upper arm should spin about freely
by hand. If it isn't I would suspect that either there is some
material in there or something has worn out.

Most spots on glassware are caused by
hard water deposits drying on the glass.
The rinse agents will help this.
Also, in some communities, they get
their water from varying sources, so it
can change from day to day. I lived in
an area served by well water from many
years. Spots on dishes were a way of
life unless you used a water softener
and/or rinse agent. A few years ago
they brought in water from Lake Michigan
..... no softener/rinse agent needed.
But, they kept the wells "just in case".
I don't know if they actually did any
blending, but it could easily be done.

wrote:

I tried using one a month ago. I was having problems where glassware
was coming out very spotted. I did some investigating and found
loads of grease below the metal filter at the bottom. I removed the
lower spray arm, the filter scree, cleaned everything I could get
to. But, I figured there must be even more in places I can't get
to. So, I bought the cleaner, which seems to consist of citric
acid. Ran it with the hottest water I could get and added extra heat
cycle.

After doing the manual clean and using the cleaner, the next few loads
were better than previous, but still not real good. After that,
things got back to normal. So, can't say for sure if it was the
manual cleaning, the cleaner. More likely it was a combo of the two.

Another conclusion I've come to is to at least occasionally use very
hot water right from the start and select extra heat. Normally, the
dishes come out fine if I just start the dishwasher on a normal cycle
and don't let the faucet run to get hot water there. It;s a long run
to the water heater, and I'm sure the first cycle is tepid at best,
the second is still probably not at 130 either. I really didn't care
because the dishes were coming out clean and I figured I'm saving
energy. But I would suspect that over time that might allow grease
to build-up because the water isn't hot enough to keep it suspended.

To the OP, it would seem to me the upper arm should spin about freely
by hand. If it isn't I would suspect that either there is some
material in there or something has worn out.

Here I am completing this thread round full circle to some sort of
resolution. (Am I the only one who hates searching through pages and
pages of group threads, not one of which gets a real answer or a hint of
a resolution??!)...

...I have run my dishwasher three times in succession (using Earth
Friendly Products "Wave" citric acid based auto dishwasher gel) at the
longest, two hour, hottest water setting (70C in my case) --

-- And it worked! After the first two goes, I noticed that the
upper spray arm had changed position, and was delighted to find, at the
end of the cycle, that the upper spray arm could be sent spinning round
and round much more freely.

I'm vegetarian, with spring water, and pre-scrubbed the crockery
before loading, and have -- until now -- used nothing but hot water in
the dishwasher. (I eat eggs and dairy. It's difficult to get problems
with solid fats and grease as a vegetarian.) I cleaned the filters and
grid every six months or so.

However, over the course of three years, the dishwasher had got
slightly grungy. This must have gradually made the upper spray arm stop
turning.

So, to recap, running the dishwasher 3 times in succession on the
hottest 70C, two-hour cycle, using either plain vinegar or a citric acid
gel has cleaned everything out, and the spray arms both turn. The
dishwasher is now working properly.

From now on I'm going to regularly use the citric acid gel cleaner,
and to run the hot/long cleaning cycle every so often.

I've had to discover for myself:

Good maintenance really is the key.

Hope this helps in advance,

Sandy


P.S.

Does the upper arm get its water from a tube from the main pump, or
does it get its water from an extendable center post that comes up
from the center of the bottom washer arm when the water is under
pressure. The upper arm should spin "freely". How do you get hairs
in a dishwasher???

From a tube system from the main pump. I realize that everyone
gets the odd hair or two in the dishwasher. However, I'm guessing that
with the caustic highly alkali cleaners people use, the hairs get
dissolved and disintegrate.

"Usenet" wrote in message
...
wrote:

I tried using one a month ago. I was having problems where glassware
was coming out very spotted. I did some investigating and found
loads of grease below the metal filter at the bottom. I removed the
lower spray arm, the filter scree, cleaned everything I could get
to. But, I figured there must be even more in places I can't get
to. So, I bought the cleaner, which seems to consist of citric
acid. Ran it with the hottest water I could get and added extra heat
cycle.

After doing the manual clean and using the cleaner, the next few loads
were better than previous, but still not real good. After that,
things got back to normal. So, can't say for sure if it was the
manual cleaning, the cleaner. More likely it was a combo of the two.

Another conclusion I've come to is to at least occasionally use very
hot water right from the start and select extra heat. Normally, the
dishes come out fine if I just start the dishwasher on a normal cycle
and don't let the faucet run to get hot water there. It;s a long run
to the water heater, and I'm sure the first cycle is tepid at best,
the second is still probably not at 130 either. I really didn't care
because the dishes were coming out clean and I figured I'm saving
energy. But I would suspect that over time that might allow grease
to build-up because the water isn't hot enough to keep it suspended.

To the OP, it would seem to me the upper arm should spin about freely
by hand. If it isn't I would suspect that either there is some
material in there or something has worn out.

Here I am completing this thread round full circle to some sort of
resolution. (Am I the only one who hates searching through pages and
pages of group threads, not one of which gets a real answer or a hint of a
resolution??!)...

...I have run my dishwasher three times in succession (using Earth
Friendly Products "Wave" citric acid based auto dishwasher gel) at the
longest, two hour, hottest water setting (70C in my case) --

-- And it worked! After the first two goes, I noticed that the upper
spray arm had changed position, and was delighted to find, at the end of
the cycle, that the upper spray arm could be sent spinning round and round
much more freely.

I'm vegetarian, with spring water, and pre-scrubbed the crockery
before loading, and have -- until now -- used nothing but hot water in the
dishwasher. (I eat eggs and dairy. It's difficult to get problems with
solid fats and grease as a vegetarian.) I cleaned the filters and grid
every six months or so.

However, over the course of three years, the dishwasher had got
slightly grungy. This must have gradually made the upper spray arm stop
turning.

So, to recap, running the dishwasher 3 times in succession on the
hottest 70C, two-hour cycle, using either plain vinegar or a citric acid
gel has cleaned everything out, and the spray arms both turn. The
dishwasher is now working properly.

From now on I'm going to regularly use the citric acid gel cleaner,
and to run the hot/long cleaning cycle every so often.

I've had to discover for myself:

Good maintenance really is the key.

Hope this helps in advance,

Sandy


P.S.

Does the upper arm get its water from a tube from the main pump, or
does it get its water from an extendable center post that comes up
from the center of the bottom washer arm when the water is under
pressure. The upper arm should spin "freely". How do you get hairs
in a dishwasher???

From a tube system from the main pump. I realize that everyone gets
the odd hair or two in the dishwasher. However, I'm guessing that with
the caustic highly alkali cleaners people use, the hairs get dissolved and
disintegrate.

I expect you will find, for future reference, that the plastic whirly bits
all pull out for cleaning quite easily - ours do - then the holes can be
poked out before steeping them in acid. Our local Asian 'delis' sell citric
by the kilo, and I find a 20% solution of this is great for cleaning all
sorts of things - sprayed on taps/bath etc. Mind u it is a good idea to
descale the parts of the m/c you can't get at, your way too.

Once stayed somewhere where the dishwasher stank if it wasn't used every
day. Ordinary bleach seemed to get at the parts official cleaners couldn't
reach, when used instead of the detergent, and did eventually get rid of the
stink.

S

Lobster wrote:

I'd still strongly recommend you run it on an empty cycle using one of
those 'deep clean' bottles of dishwasher cleaner on as hot/long a
cycle as possible. I was very scornful of those until I was advised
to use them every couple of months by a dishwasher engineer after I
was suffering similar symptoms to you.... when he visited to repair
ours, he found pipes almost completely clogged with grease, which you
wouldn't get at unless you took the machine apart.

I now use them regularly with much better results than before.


Second that. My dishwasher occasionally leaked and it was a devil to find.

Turned out the water-level sensor was so caked with grease, chicken-fat,
raisin rinds, and other effluvia that the float would STICK in the down
position and more water would be supplied, eventually running out on the
floor!

There's nasty down in there. Nasty with a capital NAS.

HeyBub
wibbled on Sunday 07 February 2010 18:11

Lobster wrote:

I'd still strongly recommend you run it on an empty cycle using one of
those 'deep clean' bottles of dishwasher cleaner on as hot/long a
cycle as possible. I was very scornful of those until I was advised
to use them every couple of months by a dishwasher engineer after I
was suffering similar symptoms to you.... when he visited to repair
ours, he found pipes almost completely clogged with grease, which you
wouldn't get at unless you took the machine apart.

I now use them regularly with much better results than before.


Second that. My dishwasher occasionally leaked and it was a devil to find.

Turned out the water-level sensor was so caked with grease, chicken-fat,
raisin rinds, and other effluvia that the float would STICK in the down
position and more water would be supplied, eventually running out on the
floor!

There's nasty down in there. Nasty with a capital NAS.

Yeah - many dishwashers have a funky head exchanger "matrix" through which
the waste water and incoming clean water pass, moving otherwise wasted heat
into the incoming water. The one I've seen on my Bosch is quite tortuous
inside so if anything is going to suffer, that will be one of the first
waterways to get skanked up.

--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

On Feb 7, 1:44*pm, Tim Watts wrote:
HeyBub
* wibbled on Sunday 07 February 2010 18:11





Lobster wrote:

I'd still strongly recommend you run it on an empty cycle using one of
those 'deep clean' bottles of dishwasher cleaner on as hot/long a
cycle as possible. *I was very scornful of those until I was advised
to use them every couple of months by a dishwasher engineer after I
was suffering similar symptoms to you.... when he visited to repair
ours, he found pipes almost completely clogged with grease, which you
wouldn't get at unless you took the machine apart.

I now use them regularly with much better results than before.

Second that. My dishwasher occasionally leaked and it was a devil to find.

Turned out the water-level sensor was so caked with grease, chicken-fat,
raisin rinds, and other effluvia that the float would STICK in the down
position and more water would be supplied, eventually running out on the
floor!

There's nasty down in there. Nasty with a capital NAS.

Yeah - many dishwashers have a funky head exchanger "matrix" *through which
the waste water and incoming clean water pass, moving otherwise wasted heat
into the incoming water. The one I've seen on my Bosch is quite tortuous
inside so if anything is going to suffer, that will be one of the first
waterways to get skanked up.

--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Wonder why no one has mentioned the"soap" they use. We use the
Walmart brand at a slightly lower level than recommended and always
hot water, but no extra heating and have never had a buildup of
grease. We are careful to scrape plates of obvious accumulated grease
if we have especially greasy hamburgers, but other than that we never
worrry about what we put into the dishwasher. We do have Lake
Michigan water which is quite soft, and have a leftover water softener
that dates back to when our subdivision was on a well with very hard
water.

"hr(bob) " wrote in message
...
On Feb 7, 1:44 pm, Tim Watts wrote:
HeyBub
wibbled on Sunday 07 February 2010 18:11





Lobster wrote:

I'd still strongly recommend you run it on an empty cycle using one of
those 'deep clean' bottles of dishwasher cleaner on as hot/long a
cycle as possible. I was very scornful of those until I was advised
to use them every couple of months by a dishwasher engineer after I
was suffering similar symptoms to you.... when he visited to repair
ours, he found pipes almost completely clogged with grease, which you
wouldn't get at unless you took the machine apart.

I now use them regularly with much better results than before.

Second that. My dishwasher occasionally leaked and it was a devil to
find.

Turned out the water-level sensor was so caked with grease, chicken-fat,
raisin rinds, and other effluvia that the float would STICK in the down
position and more water would be supplied, eventually running out on the
floor!

There's nasty down in there. Nasty with a capital NAS.

Yeah - many dishwashers have a funky head exchanger "matrix" through which
the waste water and incoming clean water pass, moving otherwise wasted
heat
into the incoming water. The one I've seen on my Bosch is quite tortuous
inside so if anything is going to suffer, that will be one of the first
waterways to get skanked up.

--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.- Hide
quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Wonder why no one has mentioned the"soap" they use. We use the
Walmart brand at a slightly lower level than recommended and always
hot water, but no extra heating and have never had a buildup of
grease. We are careful to scrape plates of obvious accumulated grease
if we have especially greasy hamburgers, but other than that we never
worrry about what we put into the dishwasher. We do have Lake
Michigan water which is quite soft, and have a leftover water softener
that dates back to when our subdivision was on a well with very hard
water.


Despite what the manufactures claim I still clean off the big stuff and
grease before putting them in the dishwasher..There is only 2 of us so it
takes a few of days to fill it which is another reason I do it...We use
Cascade All In One..Whirlpool over 5 years old and no problems...HTH...

On Feb 7, 2:44*pm, Tim Watts wrote:
HeyBub
* wibbled on Sunday 07 February 2010 18:11





Lobster wrote:

I'd still strongly recommend you run it on an empty cycle using one of
those 'deep clean' bottles of dishwasher cleaner on as hot/long a
cycle as possible. *I was very scornful of those until I was advised
to use them every couple of months by a dishwasher engineer after I
was suffering similar symptoms to you.... when he visited to repair
ours, he found pipes almost completely clogged with grease, which you
wouldn't get at unless you took the machine apart.

I now use them regularly with much better results than before.

Second that. My dishwasher occasionally leaked and it was a devil to find.

Turned out the water-level sensor was so caked with grease, chicken-fat,
raisin rinds, and other effluvia that the float would STICK in the down
position and more water would be supplied, eventually running out on the
floor!

There's nasty down in there. Nasty with a capital NAS.

Yeah - many dishwashers have a funky head exchanger "matrix" *through which
the waste water and incoming clean water pass, moving otherwise wasted heat
into the incoming water.


How in the world does that happen? In almost all cases, the incoming
water is as hot or hotter than the water that's already in the
dishwasher. Even on the ones where the dishwasher can heat the water
itself, they generally only do it on cycles where you select extra
heat. Otherwise the max temp is limited to the 130F incoming
water. So, I don't see how this alleged heat recovery heat exchanger
is going to work. In fact, in most cases it would seem to me that it
would result in heat loss, not heat gain.






The one I've seen on my Bosch is quite tortuous
inside so if anything is going to suffer, that will be one of the first
waterways to get skanked up.

--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

wrote:

Yeah - many dishwashers have a funky head exchanger "matrix" through
which
the waste water and incoming clean water pass, moving otherwise
wasted heat
into the incoming water.


How in the world does that happen? In almost all cases, the incoming
water is as hot or hotter than the water that's already in the
dishwasher. Even on the ones where the dishwasher can heat the water
itself, they generally only do it on cycles where you select extra
heat. Otherwise the max temp is limited to the 130F incoming
water. So, I don't see how this alleged heat recovery heat exchanger
is going to work. In fact, in most cases it would seem to me that it
would result in heat loss, not heat gain.



I think the water in the washer is, or can be, WAY hotter than the
temperature of the supply line (usually).

Tim Watts wrote:
HeyBub
wibbled on Sunday 07 February 2010 18:11

Lobster wrote:

I'd still strongly recommend you run it on an empty cycle using one of
those 'deep clean' bottles of dishwasher cleaner on as hot/long a
cycle as possible. I was very scornful of those until I was advised
to use them every couple of months by a dishwasher engineer after I
was suffering similar symptoms to you.... when he visited to repair
ours, he found pipes almost completely clogged with grease, which you
wouldn't get at unless you took the machine apart.

I now use them regularly with much better results than before.

Second that. My dishwasher occasionally leaked and it was a devil to find.

Turned out the water-level sensor was so caked with grease, chicken-fat,
raisin rinds, and other effluvia that the float would STICK in the down
position and more water would be supplied, eventually running out on the
floor!

There's nasty down in there. Nasty with a capital NAS.

Yeah - many dishwashers have a funky head exchanger "matrix" through which
the waste water and incoming clean water pass, moving otherwise wasted heat
into the incoming water. The one I've seen on my Bosch is quite tortuous
inside so if anything is going to suffer, that will be one of the first
waterways to get skanked up.

Figures - that description sounds like the area of my Bosch which the
engineeer spent most time on (see above!)

David