My chimney, circa 1985, lets a lot of heated air out of the top floor
causing the "fireplace room" to be ten degrees colder than the rest of the
house even though I never have used it as a "fireplace".

The chimney metal valve is shut (you can't "see" daylight looking up the
chimney) but the chimney still has a breeze going through it (and it makes
a lot of metallic noise in the wind). The chimney on the outside is
concrete looking but it kind of looks metallic on the insides plus it has a
metal covering around it at the top for about 2 feet above the chimney
concrete.

I thought about putting a temporary fiberglass or styrofoam cover in the
bottom shaft of the chimney but, of course, if someone were to start a
flame, that would be a bad idea (even though it has never been used).

I ask you here if there is a standard solution to putting a temporary plug
in the chimney from the bottom so that all the heat isn't lost going up it.

Joseph Donner wrote:
My chimney, circa 1985, lets a lot of heated air out of the top floor
causing the "fireplace room" to be ten degrees colder than the rest
of the house even though I never have used it as a "fireplace".

The chimney metal valve is shut (you can't "see" daylight looking up
the chimney) but the chimney still has a breeze going through it (and
it makes a lot of metallic noise in the wind). The chimney on the
outside is concrete looking but it kind of looks metallic on the
insides plus it has a metal covering around it at the top for about 2
feet above the chimney concrete.

I thought about putting a temporary fiberglass or styrofoam cover in
the bottom shaft of the chimney but, of course, if someone were to
start a flame, that would be a bad idea (even though it has never
been used).

I ask you here if there is a standard solution to putting a temporary
plug in the chimney from the bottom so that all the heat isn't lost
going up it.

Make your plug, and hold it in place with a stick between it and the
bottom/center of the fireplace. Anyone building a fire will have to remove it
first.

Or, get a really good sealing glass fireplace door.

"Bob F" wrote in message
...
Joseph Donner wrote:
My chimney, circa 1985, lets a lot of heated air out of the top floor
causing the "fireplace room" to be ten degrees colder than the rest
of the house even though I never have used it as a "fireplace".

The chimney metal valve is shut (you can't "see" daylight looking up
the chimney) but the chimney still has a breeze going through it (and
it makes a lot of metallic noise in the wind). The chimney on the
outside is concrete looking but it kind of looks metallic on the
insides plus it has a metal covering around it at the top for about 2
feet above the chimney concrete.

I thought about putting a temporary fiberglass or styrofoam cover in
the bottom shaft of the chimney but, of course, if someone were to
start a flame, that would be a bad idea (even though it has never
been used).

I ask you here if there is a standard solution to putting a temporary
plug in the chimney from the bottom so that all the heat isn't lost
going up it.

Make your plug, and hold it in place with a stick between it and the
bottom/center of the fireplace. Anyone building a fire will have to remove
it first.

Or, get a really good sealing glass fireplace door.


Until I could take that heat waster out (waited for summer) I covered
opening with plywood and sealing strips and hung a large painting on it.
Amazed how it lowered our house heat bill and eliminated the cool breeze.
WW

On Jan 19, 12:15*pm, Joseph Donner wrote:
My chimney, circa 1985, lets a lot of heated air out of the top floor
causing the "fireplace room" to be ten degrees colder than the rest of the
house even though I never have used it as a "fireplace".

The chimney metal valve is shut (you can't "see" daylight looking up the
chimney) but the chimney still has a breeze going through it (and it makes
a lot of metallic noise in the wind). The chimney on the outside is
concrete looking but it kind of looks metallic on the insides plus it has a
metal covering around it at the top for about 2 feet above the chimney
concrete.

I thought about putting a temporary fiberglass or styrofoam cover in the
bottom shaft of the chimney but, of course, if someone were to start a
flame, that would be a bad idea (even though it has never been used).

I ask you here if there is a standard solution to putting a temporary plug
in the chimney from the bottom so that all the heat isn't lost going up it.

Joseph Donner wrote:
My chimney, circa 1985, lets a lot of heated air out of the top floor
causing the "fireplace room" to be ten degrees colder than the rest
of the house even though I never have used it as a "fireplace".

The chimney metal valve is shut (you can't "see" daylight looking up
the chimney) but the chimney still has a breeze going through it (and
it makes a lot of metallic noise in the wind).

Just because you can't see daylight doesn't mean the damper is actually
shut. Many chimneys have an off-set to prevent, say, rain from dropping
straight down and putting out the fire.

A more thorough inspection might be called for.

On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 09:33:00 -0800, "Bob F"
wrote:

Joseph Donner wrote:
My chimney, circa 1985, lets a lot of heated air out of the top floor
causing the "fireplace room" to be ten degrees colder than the rest
of the house even though I never have used it as a "fireplace".

The chimney metal valve is shut (you can't "see" daylight looking up
the chimney) but the chimney still has a breeze going through it (and
it makes a lot of metallic noise in the wind). The chimney on the
outside is concrete looking but it kind of looks metallic on the
insides plus it has a metal covering around it at the top for about 2
feet above the chimney concrete.

I thought about putting a temporary fiberglass or styrofoam cover in
the bottom shaft of the chimney but, of course, if someone were to
start a flame, that would be a bad idea (even though it has never
been used).

I ask you here if there is a standard solution to putting a temporary
plug in the chimney from the bottom so that all the heat isn't lost
going up it.

Make your plug, and hold it in place with a stick between it and the
bottom/center of the fireplace. Anyone building a fire will have to remove it
first.

Or, get a really good sealing glass fireplace door.


Google for "chimney pillow". It's what you're looking for.

On Jan 19, 11:15*am, Joseph Donner wrote:
My chimney, circa 1985, lets a lot of heated air out of the top floor
causing the "fireplace room" to be ten degrees colder than the rest of the
house even though I never have used it as a "fireplace".

The chimney metal valve is shut (you can't "see" daylight looking up the
chimney) but the chimney still has a breeze going through it (and it makes
a lot of metallic noise in the wind). The chimney on the outside is
concrete looking but it kind of looks metallic on the insides plus it has a
metal covering around it at the top for about 2 feet above the chimney
concrete.

I thought about putting a temporary fiberglass or styrofoam cover in the
bottom shaft of the chimney but, of course, if someone were to start a
flame, that would be a bad idea (even though it has never been used).

I ask you here if there is a standard solution to putting a temporary plug
in the chimney from the bottom so that all the heat isn't lost going up it.

On Jan 19, 5:16*pm, homer wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 09:33:00 -0800, "Bob F"
wrote:

Joseph Donner wrote:
My chimney, circa 1985, lets a lot of heated air out of the top floor
causing the "fireplace room" to be ten degrees colder than the rest
of the house even though I never have used it as a "fireplace".

The chimney metal valve is shut (you can't "see" daylight looking up
the chimney) but the chimney still has a breeze going through it (and
it makes a lot of metallic noise in the wind). The chimney on the
outside is concrete looking but it kind of looks metallic on the
insides plus it has a metal covering around it at the top for about 2
feet above the chimney concrete.

I thought about putting a temporary fiberglass or styrofoam cover in
the bottom shaft of the chimney but, of course, if someone were to
start a flame, that would be a bad idea (even though it has never
been used).

I ask you here if there is a standard solution to putting a temporary
plug in the chimney from the bottom so that all the heat isn't lost
going up it.

Make your plug, and hold it in place with a stick between it and the
bottom/center of the fireplace. Anyone building a fire will have to remove it
first.

Or, get a really good sealing glass fireplace door.

Google for "chimney pillow". It's what you're looking for.

www.batticdoor.com

The foam plugs is what weatherization use to do as kind of the old
school method of dealing with fireplace draft like what you are
describing, but the trouble was trying to cut it to a tight fit took
time and you couldn't caulk it in place so you had to prop it with a
stick (as described). We kind of dropped that method because of the
liability of someone lighting a fire under it as well. I know... you
wouldn't THINK someone would do that, but sometimes people are a few
wine glasses gone by the time the stoke a fire I guess. And if they
burn a place down it gets traced back to the person who put the plug
in.

You can go with a chimney balloon to plug it and they will put you
back about $50, but if someone lights a fire under it then it bursts
and falls out so there is less liability. There are different sizes
and types on ones out there and i am sure you can find one to fit your
fireplace. This is mostly what weatherization has moved to, but we buy
them in bulk because we are in a lot of homes that are "cookie cutter"
neighborhoods.

You could go the glass door set route and that would start at about
$400 or so. The more expensive ones are tighter, but i have never
really found one that is as tight as a standard exterior window
because they are mostly glass on glass or metal on metal connections
with no weatherstripping and they have plenty of seams.

The trick is as with anything you have to air seal and insulate to
stop the cold (just like an attic) if you only do one then you will
still have a problem.

Never bought one but had info. one time that there was/is a UK device
like a blow up football bladder, that you poke up the flue and inflate
via a tube. Recall it was somewhat expensive.

Right now, however, our fireplace chimney, it's 'damper' having rusted
away years ago is blocked by a garbage bag full of paper/cardboard
rammed up the flue from below. Seems to work OK.

Been looking for a football bladder. Or even an old tyre inner tube,
but so far no luck.

Other ideas have been/are to make wooden plug to fit in or on top of
the flue where it projects above the brick by an inch or two; means of
securing could include clamps, or screws. Or holding it in place by
either an old sash weight or a chain down the now unused chimney.

On Jan 24, 10:12*pm, 69tbird wrote:
The foam plugs is what weatherization use to do as kind of the old
school method of dealing with fireplace draft like what you are
describing, but the trouble was trying to cut it to a tight fit took
time and you couldn't caulk it in place so you had to prop it with a
stick (as described). We kind of dropped that method because of the
liability of someone lighting a fire under it as well. I know... you
wouldn't THINK someone would do that, but sometimes people are a few
wine glasses gone by the time the stoke a fire I guess. And if they
burn a place down it gets traced back to the person who put the plug
in.

You can go with a chimney balloon to plug it and they will put you
back about $50, but if someone lights a fire under it then it bursts
and falls out so there is less liability. There are different sizes
and types on ones out there and i am sure you can find one to fit your
fireplace. This is mostly what weatherization has moved to, but we buy
them in bulk because we are in a lot of homes that are "cookie cutter"
neighborhoods.

You could go the glass door set route and that would start at about
$400 or so. The more expensive ones are tighter, but i have never
really found one that is as tight as a standard exterior window
because they are mostly glass on glass or metal on metal connections
with no weatherstripping and they have plenty of seams.

The trick is as with anything you have to air seal and insulate to
stop the cold (just like an attic) if you only do one then you will
still have a problem.

With magnetic tape its airproof-draftproof, it sticks to the metal L
channel.

On Jan 24, 11:20*pm, terry wrote:
Never bought one but had info. one time that there was/is a UK device
like a blow up football bladder, that you poke up the flue and inflate
via a tube. Recall it was somewhat expensive.

Right now, however, our fireplace chimney, it's 'damper' having rusted
away years ago is blocked by a garbage bag full of paper/cardboard
rammed up the flue from below. Seems to work OK.

Been looking for a football bladder. Or even an old tyre inner tube,
but so far no luck.

Other ideas have been/are to make wooden plug to fit in or on top of
the flue where it projects above the brick by an inch or two; means of
securing could include clamps, or screws. Or holding it in place by
either an old sash weight or a chain down the now unused chimney.

Sealing at the flue still leaves the firebox open, that is where the
cold transfers from uninsulated brick. Seal it at the inside inside
opening, the foam plug is best

On Jan 24, 11:12*pm, 69tbird wrote:
The foam plugs is what weatherization use to do as kind of the old
school method of dealing with fireplace draft like what you are
describing, but the trouble was trying to cut it to a tight fit took
time and you couldn't caulk it in place so you had to prop it with a
stick (as described). We kind of dropped that method because of the
liability of someone lighting a fire under it as well. I know... you
wouldn't THINK someone would do that, but sometimes people are a few
wine glasses gone by the time the stoke a fire I guess. And if they
burn a place down it gets traced back to the person who put the plug
in.

You can go with a chimney balloon to plug it and they will put you
back about $50, but if someone lights a fire under it then it bursts
and falls out so there is less liability. There are different sizes
and types on ones out there and i am sure you can find one to fit your
fireplace. This is mostly what weatherization has moved to, but we buy
them in bulk because we are in a lot of homes that are "cookie cutter"
neighborhoods.

You could go the glass door set route and that would start at about
$400 or so. The more expensive ones are tighter, but i have never
really found one that is as tight as a standard exterior window
because they are mostly glass on glass or metal on metal connections
with no weatherstripping and they have plenty of seams.

The trick is as with anything you have to air seal and insulate to
stop the cold (just like an attic) if you only do one then you will
still have a problem.

How To Reduce Your Energy Bills / Energy Conservation Begins at Home

Imagine leaving a window open all winter long -- the heat loss, cold
drafts and wasted energy! If your home has a folding attic stair, a
whole house fan or AC Return, a fireplace or a clothes dryer, that may
be just what is occurring in your home every day.

These often overlooked sources of energy loss and air leakage can
cause heat and AC to pour out and the outside air to rush in --
costing you higher energy bills.

But what can you do about the four largest “holes” in your home -- the
folding attic stair, the whole house fan or AC return, the fireplace,
and the clothes dryer?

To learn more visit www.batticdoor.com

Mark D. Tyrol is a Professional Engineer specializing in cause and
origin of construction defects. He developed several residential
energy conservation products including an attic stair cover and an
attic access door. Battic Door is the US distributor of the fireplace
plug.