The master bedroom is close to the heater on the attic and has two
vents. The air coming out is strong and hot. Another room is far from
the heater and has only one vent. The air is weak and the room is
cold. What's the simplest solution to make that room warmer without
making the master bedroom too hot? Thanks.

Yong Huang wrote:
The master bedroom is close to the heater on the attic and has two
vents. The air coming out is strong and hot. Another room is far from
the heater and has only one vent. The air is weak and the room is
cold. What's the simplest solution to make that room warmer without
making the master bedroom too hot? Thanks.

Close the vent a bit in the room where the air is strong and that will force
more air to the other room. This is "balancing" a common way of evening out
the heat in each room.

On Fri, 8 Jan 2010 20:04:53 -0800 (PST), Yong Huang
wrote:

The master bedroom is close to the heater on the attic and has two
vents. The air coming out is strong and hot. Another room is far from
the heater and has only one vent. The air is weak and the room is
cold. What's the simplest solution to make that room warmer without
making the master bedroom too hot? Thanks.

Try a product like this

http://www.atrendyhome.com/durebofan.html

Home Depot and other stores sell similar items.

"Yong Huang" wrote in message
...
The master bedroom is close to the heater on the attic and has two
vents. The air coming out is strong and hot. Another room is far from
the heater and has only one vent. The air is weak and the room is
cold. What's the simplest solution to make that room warmer without
making the master bedroom too hot? Thanks.

Be sure to go into the attic and check the duct to be sure that it is
connected properly and has no leaks and is not crushed.


--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

Roger Shoaf wrote:
"Yong Huang" wrote in message
...
The master bedroom is close to the heater on the attic and has two
vents. The air coming out is strong and hot. Another room is far from
the heater and has only one vent. The air is weak and the room is
cold. What's the simplest solution to make that room warmer without
making the master bedroom too hot? Thanks.

Be sure to go into the attic and check the duct to be sure that it is
connected properly and has no leaks and is not crushed.


Also, check to see if the original
install had gates in the ducts for
balancing. I know there are some in my
house.

On Jan 8, 11:23*pm, wrote:
On Fri, 8 Jan 2010 20:04:53 -0800 (PST), Yong Huang

wrote:
The master bedroom is close to the heater on the attic and has two
vents. The air coming out is strong and hot. Another room is far from
the heater and has only one vent. The air is weak and the room is
cold. What's the simplest solution to make that room warmer without
making the master bedroom too hot? Thanks.

Try a product like this

http://www.atrendyhome.com/durebofan.html

Home Depot and other stores sell similar items.


Also saw similar ones on Smarthome.com I think. First thing to do
though, as someone suggested, is inspect the duct work to the extent
that you can. Common for crappy duct tape to let go and a joint to
come loose.

There are also auxilliary blowers that you can insert into a duct.
You cut a square hole in the duct and part of a squirrel cage blower
goes inside. I did that on one of mine and increased the air flow to
several registers at the farthest end of the house. Mine is direct
wired, but I think I saw ones that were self actuated too. Probably
not that suited to your application, but worth noting.

"Roger Shoaf" wrote in message
...

"Yong Huang" wrote in message
...
The master bedroom is close to the heater on the attic and has two
vents. The air coming out is strong and hot. Another room is far from
the heater and has only one vent. The air is weak and the room is
cold. What's the simplest solution to make that room warmer without
making the master bedroom too hot? Thanks.

Be sure to go into the attic and check the duct to be sure that it is
connected properly and has no leaks and is not crushed.

snip

That was the problem I had. Two of the ducts were crushed and the air was
blowing into the duct's insulation. From the outward appearance the ducts
looked fine but on the inside the insulation had collapsed.

Yong Huang wrote in news:88d1299f-dedb-4c20-8675-
:

The master bedroom is close to the heater on the attic and has two
vents. The air coming out is strong and hot. Another room is far from
the heater and has only one vent. The air is weak and the room is
cold. What's the simplest solution to make that room warmer without
making the master bedroom too hot? Thanks.

Another vote for check the ductwork connections.

The air is weak

Assuming this was not always the case it sounds a likely candidate. Often
connections/joints come loose. Reattach with good quality HVAC tape, not
run of the mill duct tape (ignore my handle). The wider the better.

Also possible a critter got in and did some HVAC chewing work to warm his
new home.

Master Betty wrote:
"Roger Shoaf" wrote in message
...
"Yong Huang" wrote in message
...
The master bedroom is close to the heater on the attic and has two
vents. The air coming out is strong and hot. Another room is far from
the heater and has only one vent. The air is weak and the room is
cold. What's the simplest solution to make that room warmer without
making the master bedroom too hot? Thanks.
Be sure to go into the attic and check the duct to be sure that it is
connected properly and has no leaks and is not crushed.

snip

That was the problem I had. Two of the ducts were crushed and the air was
blowing into the duct's insulation. From the outward appearance the ducts
looked fine but on the inside the insulation had collapsed.


I hate that flex-duct crap. Cheap and goes in quick, but sure doesn't
seem to be good for 50-60 years like metal duct.

--
aem sends...

On Jan 8, 10:23 pm, wrote:
....

Try a product like this

http://www.atrendyhome.com/durebofan.html

Home Depot and other stores sell similar items.

Thank you. I like it. The only "problem" is the unsightly power cord
that runs from the wall outlet to it, on the wall and then on the
ceiling. By the way, why does it have heat and cold two settings?
Isn't it just a fan to pull air in? Does the little fan automatically
stop running shortly after my heater or A/C blower stops running?

I went to the attic and checked the hose from the furnace all the way
to the vent. I didn't find any leak or collapse. I didn't cut open the
hose and check or blow air into it.

On Jan 9, 9:51*pm, Yong Huang wrote:
On Jan 8, 10:23 pm, wrote:
...



Try a product like this

http://www.atrendyhome.com/durebofan.html

Home Depot and other stores sell similar items.

Thank you. I like it. The only "problem" is the unsightly power cord
that runs from the wall outlet to it, on the wall and then on the
ceiling. By the way, why does it have heat and cold two settings?
Isn't it just a fan to pull air in? Does the little fan automatically
stop running shortly after my heater or A/C blower stops running?

I went to the attic and checked the hose from the furnace all the way
to the vent. I didn't find any leak or collapse. I didn't cut open the
hose and check or blow air into it.

If you have plenty of airflow into the near room, then blocking part
of the near-room register will force more air into the far room.
Also, do you know what to look for for dampers in the ducts
themselves. All you will see is a small projection from the ductwork
on opposite sides of the duct. If you turn the projection, it will
turn a baffle inside the duct to control the air flow. If you think
you find a damper, have someone go to the far room and check the
airflow as you rotate the damper, You may need to use a pair of
large pliers to turn the damper. But, is this a new problem, or
something that has always been in existence since you owned the house,
are you the original owner?

On Jan 9, 10:35 pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:

If you have plenty of airflow into the near room, then blocking part
of the near-room register will force more air into the far room.
Also, do you know what to look for for dampers in the ducts
themselves. All you will see is a small projection from the ductwork
on opposite sides of the duct. If you turn the projection, it will
turn a baffle inside the duct to control the air flow. If you think
you find a damper, have someone go to the far room and check the
airflow as you rotate the damper, You may need to use a pair of
large pliers to turn the damper. But, is this a new problem, or
something that has always been in existence since you owned the house,
are you the original owner?

Unfortunately I didn't find a damper. I checked the entire hose from
the furnace to the register.

The house was built in 1990. This is an old problem. (In summer, the
far room is warmer. But there's a ceiling fan so it's not a big
problem.) The hot master bedroom is close to the furnace and has two
registers. The small bedroom is far but has only one. I already closed
one register in the master and one in the hallway between the two
rooms. There may be a difference now but it's hard to tell for sure.

Yong Huang wrote in news:238ca902-6a55-4281-a150-
:



Can you install an extra duct from the furnace to the far bedroom with an
extra register? That will route more warm air to the far room than
anything you can do with register balancing. If you can't install a new
duct then replace the old duct with a larger one and use a larger
register. Also, insulate the ducts to that bedroom so the air will be as
warm as possible when it gets there. Any insulation will work - I use
fiberglass batts - wrap around and use supports for the bottom.

You may also need to install an extra return air duct from the cold room.
You can't get more air into a room unless you take more air out. Usually
there is enough capacity to let the extra air out of the room but if
there is a tight door and the walls are tight then more return air
capacity will be required to get the benefit of the new warm air duct. It
is a system and all the parts need to work together. Cheapest solution
may be to install a grate in the door or interior wall of that room to
let the extra air out. Or just cut off 1/2 inch from the bottom of the
door.

Register balancing is difficult because when you restrict the air flow
into one room the excess air then goes equally to all other rooms. The
excess air won't go to a particular room unless you run around the house
and restrict all the other registers. That will take a good long while to
get balanced and then sooner or later someone will come along and undo
all your hard work by opening up some or all of the registers. If you
restrict any registers make a mark or scratch on each one so you can
easily see if it has been moved and can re-set them without repeating the
whole exercise.

On Jan 11, 5:01*pm, Yong Huang wrote:
On Jan 9, 10:35 pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:



If you have plenty of airflow into the near room, then blocking part
of the near-room register will force more air into the far room.
Also, do you know what to look for for dampers in the ducts
themselves. *All you will see is a small projection from the ductwork
on opposite sides of the duct. *If you turn the projection, it will
turn a baffle inside the duct to control the air flow. *If you think
you find a damper, have someone go to the far room and check the
airflow as you rotate the damper, * You may need to use a pair of
large pliers to turn the damper. *But, is this a new problem, or
something that has always been in existence since you owned the house,
are you the original owner?

Unfortunately I didn't find a damper. I checked the entire hose from
the furnace to the register.

The house was built in 1990. This is an old problem. (In summer, the
far room is warmer. But there's a ceiling fan so it's not a big
problem.) The hot master bedroom is close to the furnace and has two
registers. The small bedroom is far but has only one. I already closed
one register in the master and one in the hallway between the two
rooms. There may be a difference now but it's hard to tell for sure.

I solved a similar problem in our bonus room by replacing most of the
6" flex with 8". I increased the size of the takeoffs to 8". Close
to the registers I spliced back to the orignal 6" with reducers. Made
a difference. Anything that reduces the resistance helps. Closing
closer vents is ok but generally just increases the total resistance
of the whole system.