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Default Tying in baseboard and sanitary casing

Hi,

All the doors in my house are dressed the same: 3/4 sanitary casing with
cabinet head. I also have 3/4 baseboard.

I'm replacing the casing on a couple of doors. The problem is that
sanitary casing that's available today in 9/16" but the baseboard is
still 3/4". So it doesn't work where they meet.

What's the best way to tie them together? Easing the baseboard from 3/4
- 9/16? Or somehow working the baseboard over the casing?

I'm not sure I'm explaining myself well but it's the best I can do.

Thanks,

Aaron
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Default Tying in baseboard and sanitary casing

Sam Takoy wrote:
Hi,

All the doors in my house are dressed the same: 3/4 sanitary casing with
cabinet head. I also have 3/4 baseboard.

I'm replacing the casing on a couple of doors. The problem is that
sanitary casing that's available today in 9/16" but the baseboard is
still 3/4". So it doesn't work where they meet.

What's the best way to tie them together? Easing the baseboard from 3/4
- 9/16? Or somehow working the baseboard over the casing?

I'm not sure I'm explaining myself well but it's the best I can do.

Thanks,

Aaron


Go to a real lumber yard with a scrap of what you have now and have them
mill what you need. I have done that numerous times to match something
existing and it gives an excellent result and isn't expensive.
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Default Tying in baseboard and sanitary casing

On Dec 3, 8:02*am, Sam Takoy wrote:
Hi,

All the doors in my house are dressed the same: 3/4 sanitary casing with
cabinet head. I also have 3/4 baseboard.

I'm replacing the casing on a couple of doors. The problem is that
sanitary casing that's available today in 9/16" but the baseboard is
still 3/4". *So it doesn't work where they meet.

What's the best way to tie them together? Easing the baseboard from 3/4
- 9/16? Or somehow working the baseboard over the casing?

I'm not sure I'm explaining myself well but it's the best I can do.

Thanks,

Aaron


The other alternative is to put a square/rectangular block of wood
where they meet so each piece of trim butts up against the block. The
block can be deeper/thicker than either piece of trim so that the
differences are less noticeable. I have that treatment in several
places in my 50 year-old/ house, they were part of the original design.
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Default Tying in baseboard and sanitary casing

Sam Takoy wrote:
Hi,

All the doors in my house are dressed the same: 3/4 sanitary casing with
cabinet head. I also have 3/4 baseboard.

I'm replacing the casing on a couple of doors. The problem is that
sanitary casing that's available today in 9/16" but the baseboard is
still 3/4". So it doesn't work where they meet.

What's the best way to tie them together? Easing the baseboard from 3/4
- 9/16? Or somehow working the baseboard over the casing?

I'm not sure I'm explaining myself well but it's the best I can do.

Thanks,

Aaron

If you can't find a cheap local place to mill what you need, or a local
old-style yard that has some old stock, you could lay some flat stock
behind the casing make it the right thickness. No, the contour won't be
perfect, but unless there is another door with the old casing a foot
away, nobody will ever notice. Also check habitat restore or similar
place for ripout material, if the new installation will be painted. If
the guy tearing out the old stuff was careful, it may be clean enough to
reuse.

--
aem sends...


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Default Tying in baseboard and sanitary casing

On Dec 3, 8:02*am, Sam Takoy wrote:
Hi,

All the doors in my house are dressed the same: 3/4 sanitary casing with
cabinet head. I also have 3/4 baseboard.

I'm replacing the casing on a couple of doors. The problem is that
sanitary casing that's available today in 9/16" but the baseboard is
still 3/4". *So it doesn't work where they meet.

What's the best way to tie them together? Easing the baseboard from 3/4
- 9/16? Or somehow working the baseboard over the casing?

I'm not sure I'm explaining myself well but it's the best I can do.

Thanks,

Aaron


What is sanitary casing?
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Default Tying in baseboard and sanitary casing

Choices:
*See if you can find some old stock for the door casing.
*Use plinths at the bottom of the door casing to allow base and
case to die against.
*Replace the base back to some point that does away with the
problem
*Cut a 45° degree face bevel on the thicker stock. Sorry, I can't
find a picture, it is NOT a full bevel, just a slight bevel on the
front face - a bit like running a round over bit on the end of a
rectangular piece.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Sam Takoy" wrote in message
...
Hi,

All the doors in my house are dressed the same: 3/4 sanitary
casing with cabinet head. I also have 3/4 baseboard.

I'm replacing the casing on a couple of doors. The problem is
that sanitary casing that's available today in 9/16" but the
baseboard is still 3/4". So it doesn't work where they meet.

What's the best way to tie them together? Easing the baseboard
from 3/4 - 9/16? Or somehow working the baseboard over the
casing?

I'm not sure I'm explaining myself well but it's the best I can
do.

Thanks,

Aaron



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