Sewage gases: check valve?
Hi,
My washer is basically at the same level as the main stack (or whatever its horizontal equivalent). So there is not sufficient elevation to have a p-trap on the exhaust (take my word for it - I just can't do it). So I bought a check valve at HD. I think it's intended for a sump pump. Will it solve my problem? And if so - what's the best location to install it. The PVC exhaust that the washer drains into has a vertical part that then flows into a horizontal part. Is better to install the check valve is far down the stream as possible? or the other way around? or six of one? Many thanks in advance! Aaron |
Sewage gases: check valve?
Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi, My washer is basically at the same level as the main stack (or whatever its horizontal equivalent). So there is not sufficient elevation to have a p-trap on the exhaust (take my word for it - I just can't do it). So I bought a check valve at HD. I think it's intended for a sump pump. Will it solve my problem? No - if it is a check valve, it will catch lint, clog & never shut properly after about a week of use. This is what you want- http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/6833156 HD carries them as a "cheater vent" - Put it on the top of the pipe that your washer drains into- and sani-T the drain hose. [there should be directions showing installations in the package] Jim |
Sewage gases: check valve?
On Oct 21, 7:59*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
Aaron Fude wrote: Hi, My washer is basically at the same level as the main stack (or whatever its horizontal equivalent). So there is not sufficient elevation to have * a p-trap on the exhaust (take my word for it - I just can't do it). So I bought a check valve at HD. I think it's intended for a sump pump. Will it solve my problem? No - if it is a check valve, it will catch lint, clog & never shut properly after about a week of use. This is what you want-http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/6833156 HD carries them as a "cheater vent" * *- * Put it on the top of the pipe that your washer drains into- and sani-T the drain hose. [there should be directions showing installations in the package] Jim That solves the problem of not being able to have a vent pipe on the drain where it is located and works with a P trap. It does not eliminate the need for a P trap, which is what the stated problem is. He says there is not sufficient elevation for a P trap, for which I think we need more explanation.. |
Sewage gases: check valve?
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Sewage gases: check valve?
On Oct 21, 8:43*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
On Wed, 21 Oct 2009 05:27:19 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Oct 21, 7:59*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote: Aaron Fude wrote: Hi, My washer is basically at the same level as the main stack (or whatever its horizontal equivalent). So there is not sufficient elevation to have * a p-trap on the exhaust (take my word for it - I just can't do it). So I bought a check valve at HD. I think it's intended for a sump pump. Will it solve my problem? No - if it is a check valve, it will catch lint, clog & never shut properly after about a week of use. This is what you want-http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/6833156 HD carries them as a "cheater vent" * *- * Put it on the top of the pipe that your washer drains into- and sani-T the drain hose. [there should be directions showing installations in the package] Jim That solves the problem of not being able to have a vent pipe on the drain where it is located and works with a P trap. *It does not eliminate the need for a P trap, which is what the stated problem is. I am not a plumber-- and I know some codes don't allow them. * But they work fine as a vent, and don't allow sewer gas into the house. [the latter being the purpose of the p-trap, right?] They work as a vent in COMBINATION with a p-trap. In an installation with a p-trap and conventional vent pipe, the water in the p-trap blocks the gases from coming into the house through the drain and the vent pipe gives the gases an alternate low pressure exit out the roof. The device you recommended, commonly called an air admittance valve, is used where you can't provide a nearby vent pipe, like a kitchen island sink. It allows air in, to prevent a vacuum from forming and allowing water to flow normally. It will not allow waste gases to come out through the valve in the reverse direction. But the gases will still flow right out of the drain if there is no p-trap filled with water. Also, the air admittance valve depends on there being some other actual vent pipe in the system. He says there is not sufficient elevation for a P trap, for which I think we need more explanation.. I agree here- a picture of the setup would probably elicit a 1/2 dozen ways to attack the problem. Yes, since the typical washer can pump probably as high as the ceiling, it would seem a p-trap should be able to go somewhere. Jim- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - |
Sewage gases: check valve?
On Wed, 21 Oct 2009 08:43:33 -0400, Jim Elbrecht
wrote: That solves the problem of not being able to have a vent pipe on the drain where it is located and works with a P trap. It does not eliminate the need for a P trap, which is what the stated problem is. I am not a plumber-- and I know some codes don't allow them. But they work fine as a vent, and don't allow sewer gas into the house. [the latter being the purpose of the p-trap, right?] Yes, but you are talking about two separate things. The p-trap keeps gas from entering the house via the drain in question. The device you are talking about lets you create a vent inside the living space without letting sewer gas enter via the vent. The OP has the first problem, not the second. He wants to keep gas from entering via a trapless drain. |
Sewage gases: check valve?
On Oct 21, 9:46*am, wrote:
Yes, since the typical washer can pump probably as high as the ceiling, it would seem a p-trap should be able to go somewhere. I'm sure you're right. Washers are one of the easiest things to squeeze a trap in because of the capabilities of the built in pump. R |
Sewage gases: check valve?
Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi, My washer is basically at the same level as the main stack (or whatever its horizontal equivalent). So there is not sufficient elevation to have a p-trap on the exhaust (take my word for it - I just can't do it). So I bought a check valve at HD. I think it's intended for a sump pump. Will it solve my problem? And if so - what's the best location to install it. The PVC exhaust that the washer drains into has a vertical part that then flows into a horizontal part. Is better to install the check valve is far down the stream as possible? or the other way around? or six of one? Many thanks in advance! Aaron If there is not enough elevation to install a "P-trap", you will find that a sump pump check valve is built to be installed vertically so that the ball closes the pipe by gravity, so there may not be enough room to install it either. |
Sewage gases: check valve?
On Oct 21, 9:46*am, wrote:
On Oct 21, 8:43*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote: On Wed, 21 Oct 2009 05:27:19 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Oct 21, 7:59*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote: Aaron Fude wrote: Hi, My washer is basically at the same level as the main stack (or whatever its horizontal equivalent). So there is not sufficient elevation to have * a p-trap on the exhaust (take my word for it - I just can't do it). So I bought a check valve at HD. I think it's intended for a sump pump. Will it solve my problem? No - if it is a check valve, it will catch lint, clog & never shut properly after about a week of use. This is what you want-http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/6833156 HD carries them as a "cheater vent" * *- * Put it on the top of the pipe that your washer drains into- and sani-T the drain hose. [there should be directions showing installations in the package] Jim That solves the problem of not being able to have a vent pipe on the drain where it is located and works with a P trap. *It does not eliminate the need for a P trap, which is what the stated problem is. I am not a plumber-- and I know some codes don't allow them. * But they work fine as a vent, and don't allow sewer gas into the house. [the latter being the purpose of the p-trap, right?] They work as a vent in COMBINATION with a p-trap. * In an installation with a p-trap and conventional vent pipe, the water in the p-trap blocks the gases from coming into the house through the drain and the vent pipe gives the gases an alternate low pressure exit out the roof. * *The device you recommended, commonly called an air admittance valve, is used where you can't provide a nearby vent pipe, like a kitchen island sink. * It allows air in, to prevent a vacuum from forming and allowing water to flow normally. * It will not allow waste gases to come out through the valve in the reverse direction. * But the gases will still flow right out of the drain if there is no p-trap filled with water. * *Also, the air admittance valve depends on there being some other actual vent pipe in the system. He says there is not sufficient elevation for a P trap, for which I think we need more explanation.. I agree here- a picture of the setup would probably elicit a 1/2 dozen ways to attack the problem. Yes, since the typical washer can pump probably as high as the ceiling, it would seem a p-trap should be able to go somewhere. Jim- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I have a friend whose main sewer line goes across one wall of his basement at about the same height as his washing machine. The washing machine connects to the stack about 3 ft above that. He eventually moved the machines upstairs when his kids moved out. Jimmie |
Sewage gases: check valve?
Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi, My washer is basically at the same level as the main stack (or whatever its horizontal equivalent). So there is not sufficient elevation to have a p-trap on the exhaust (take my word for it - I just can't do it). So I bought a check valve at HD. I think it's intended for a sump pump. Will it solve my problem? And if so - what's the best location to install it. The PVC exhaust that the washer drains into has a vertical part that then flows into a horizontal part. Is better to install the check valve is far down the stream as possible? or the other way around? or six of one? Many thanks in advance! Aaron Hi Gas check valve? I wonder how it works. |
Sewage gases: check valve?
On 2009-10-21, Aaron Fude wrote:
My washer is basically at the same level as the main stack (or whatever its horizontal equivalent). So there is not sufficient elevation to have a p-trap on the exhaust (take my word for it - I just can't do it). Sorry, you must have a p-trap and standpipe. As others have mentioned, you can raise the inlet of the standpipe as needed so the outlet of the p-trap is high enough to tie into your horitzontal drain. The pump on the washer should be capable of pumping high enough to get to the standpipe inlet. Check your washer manual for the maximum height. If you really can't make that work, then the only alternative is an ejector pump. Yours, Wayne |
Sewage gases: check valve?
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Sewage gases: check valve?
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Sewage gases: check valve?
Wayne Whitney wrote:
he maximum height. If you really can't make that work, then the only alternative is an ejector pump. Yours, Wayne Thanks for the responses. Here's my situation. The washer is in the basement. The 4" cast iron drain runs 18" below the ceiling. So to have a 36" standpipe I would need to go through the ceiling and into a bay in the wall on the first floor, which I can't do because my wall sit on steel beams. Thanks! Aaron |
Sewage gases: check valve?
On Wed, 21 Oct 2009 16:48:17 -0400, Aaron Fude
wrote: Wayne Whitney wrote: he maximum height. If you really can't make that work, then the only alternative is an ejector pump. Yours, Wayne Thanks for the responses. Here's my situation. The washer is in the basement. The 4" cast iron drain runs 18" below the ceiling. So to have a 36" standpipe I would need to go through the ceiling and into a bay in the wall on the first floor, which I can't do because my wall sit on steel beams. Thanks! Aaron 36" standpipe is to get above "flood level". At 18" below the ceiling you are already well up there. You say 18" below the ceiling. Is the ceiling level the subfloor above, or below the floor joist? If it is below the joist you have another 8" +/- available. What drains are already available (what taps into the 4" CI pipe) and where? If you have a drain coming into the pipe that you can tap into I'd put a "T-Y" in and then a trap with as much "standpipe" as you have room for. If you are within a couple feet of the "stack" you may not need aditional venting if the standpipe is between something like 18" and 40" horizontally from the main drain. Or you MAY need the "cheater vent" to keep the trap from being sucked dry. I tried to bounce this off a friend of mine who is a retired plumber but he's not in at the moment. I'll see what he says when he gets in. |
Sewage gases: check valve?
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Sewage gases: check valve?
On 2009-10-21, Aaron Fude wrote:
The washer is in the basement. The 4" cast iron drain runs 18" below the ceiling. So to have a 36" standpipe I would need to go through the ceiling and into a bay in the wall on the first floor, which I can't do because my wall sit on steel beams. Not sure what plumbing code you are under, but I believe the IPC states: 802.4 Standpipes. Standpipes shall be individually trapped. Standpipes shall extend a minimum of 18 inches (457 mm) and a maximum of 42 inches (1066 mm) above the trap weir. So an 18" standpipe is adequate. Is there anyway you can fit that in, with the P-trap and the transition from 2" to 4"? Cheers, Wayne |
Sewage gases: check valve?
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Sewage gases: check valve?
On Thu, 22 Oct 2009 01:25:51 +0000 (UTC), Wayne Whitney
wrote: On 2009-10-22, wrote: If your washer will pump high enough to reach the pipe you put a connection into the TOP of the 4" lateral (means cut into pipe and use mechanical joint (clamped in rubber T Y)) to 2" or 1 1/2" plastic, a 45 to take it straight up, and then a fitting to clamp the washer discarge tightly to that pipe. No trap or vent required. This sounds like poor advice. Wayne It is totally safe and legal. The plumber I talked to, a good friend of mine, was one of the best in the area for many years up to his recent retirement. |
Sewage gases: check valve?
On Thu, 22 Oct 2009 01:24:56 +0000 (UTC), Wayne Whitney
wrote: On 2009-10-21, Aaron Fude wrote: The washer is in the basement. The 4" cast iron drain runs 18" below the ceiling. So to have a 36" standpipe I would need to go through the ceiling and into a bay in the wall on the first floor, which I can't do because my wall sit on steel beams. Not sure what plumbing code you are under, but I believe the IPC states: 802.4 Standpipes. Standpipes shall be individually trapped. Standpipes shall extend a minimum of 18 inches (457 mm) and a maximum of 42 inches (1066 mm) above the trap weir. So an 18" standpipe is adequate. Is there anyway you can fit that in, with the P-trap and the transition from 2" to 4"? Cheers, Wayne No standpipe required at all with a direct mechanical connection. No vent required when connected directly into the top of a 4" pipe. No trap required if the directly connected washer unit holds water in the pump when shut down (which it most definitely will if pumping up 60 inches or so into the pipe. |
Sewage gases: check valve?
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Sewage gases: check valve?
Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi, My washer is basically at the same level as the main stack (or whatever its horizontal equivalent). So there is not sufficient elevation to have a p-trap on the exhaust (take my word for it - I just can't do it). So I bought a check valve at HD. I think it's intended for a sump pump. Will it solve my problem? And if so - what's the best location to install it. The PVC exhaust that the washer drains into has a vertical part that then flows into a horizontal part. Is better to install the check valve is far down the stream as possible? or the other way around? or six of one? Many thanks in advance! Aaron i don't think that will work, cause the sump pump check valves are just a gravity style without a spring. If installed upside down, it'll just hang open. s |
Sewage gases: check valve?
Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi, My washer is basically at the same level as the main stack (or whatever its horizontal equivalent). So there is not sufficient elevation to have a p-trap on the exhaust (take my word for it - I just can't do it). So I bought a check valve at HD. I think it's intended for a sump pump. Will it solve my problem? And if so - what's the best location to install it. The PVC exhaust that the washer drains into has a vertical part that then flows into a horizontal part. Is better to install the check valve is far down the stream as possible? or the other way around? or six of one? Many thanks in advance! Aaron another thought, unless your stated 'horizontal line' is on the ceiling, all you have to do is get above it. The washer will pump several feet of head without problem. s |
Sewage gases: check valve?
On Thu, 22 Oct 2009 12:11:51 -0500, Steve Barker
wrote: Aaron Fude wrote: Hi, My washer is basically at the same level as the main stack (or whatever its horizontal equivalent). So there is not sufficient elevation to have a p-trap on the exhaust (take my word for it - I just can't do it). So I bought a check valve at HD. I think it's intended for a sump pump. Will it solve my problem? And if so - what's the best location to install it. The PVC exhaust that the washer drains into has a vertical part that then flows into a horizontal part. Is better to install the check valve is far down the stream as possible? or the other way around? or six of one? Many thanks in advance! Aaron another thought, unless your stated 'horizontal line' is on the ceiling, all you have to do is get above it. The washer will pump several feet of head without problem. s He said about 18 inches below the ceiling. There is NO problem Just install as I recommended in an earlier post, as advised by my plumber. |
Sewage gases: check valve?
On Oct 22, 8:57*pm, wrote:
Steve Barker wrote: Aaron Fude wrote: My washer is basically at the same level as the main stack (or whatever its horizontal equivalent). So there is not sufficient elevation to have * a p-trap on the exhaust (take my word for it - I just can't do it).. So I bought a check valve at HD. I think it's intended for a sump pump.. Will it solve my problem? And if so - what's the best location to install it. The PVC exhaust that the washer drains into has a vertical part that then flows into a horizontal part. Is better to install the check valve is far down the stream as possible? or the other way around? or six of one? another thought, unless your stated 'horizontal line' is on the ceiling, all you have to do is get above it. *The washer will pump several feet of head without problem. He said about 18 inches below the ceiling. There is NO problem Just install as I recommended in an earlier post, as advised by my plumber. Curious. You see no possibility that your one plumber might have an opinion that is at variance with other plumbers, equally skilled, or a building inspector, who may be very skilled or not but still has the final word? This is the typical washing machine hose to PVC connector: http://doitbest.com/PVC+fittings-Fer...ku-416126..dib Note the little holes. You seem to be saying make a tight connection, no venting/equalization holes, no trap, and call it good. You're saying that a washing machine doesn't need a trap. If that were the case, why would anyone ever put in a trap? It's obviously simpler to do it your way. I don't necessarily foresee any complications in use doing it your way, but I don't see how it would pass code. Code calls for a trap. Some people don't care about code, many building (and home) inspectors do. Just saying... R |
Sewage gases: check valve?
On Thu, 22 Oct 2009 22:35:06 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour
wrote: On Oct 22, 8:57Â*pm, wrote: Steve Barker wrote: Aaron Fude wrote: My washer is basically at the same level as the main stack (or whatever its horizontal equivalent). So there is not sufficient elevation to have Â* a p-trap on the exhaust (take my word for it - I just can't do it). So I bought a check valve at HD. I think it's intended for a sump pump. Will it solve my problem? And if so - what's the best location to install it. The PVC exhaust that the washer drains into has a vertical part that then flows into a horizontal part. Is better to install the check valve is far down the stream as possible? or the other way around? or six of one? another thought, unless your stated 'horizontal line' is on the ceiling, all you have to do is get above it. Â*The washer will pump several feet of head without problem. He said about 18 inches below the ceiling. There is NO problem Just install as I recommended in an earlier post, as advised by my plumber. Curious. You see no possibility that your one plumber might have an opinion that is at variance with other plumbers, equally skilled, or a building inspector, who may be very skilled or not but still has the final word? This guy was one of the leading master plumbers in our metropolitan area and has done it many times and passed inspection. Are you aware of anyone who has done it this way and NOT met inspection requirements? If not, go away. |
Sewage gases: check valve?
On Oct 23, 11:36*am, wrote:
On Thu, 22 Oct 2009 22:35:06 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour wrote: On Oct 22, 8:57*pm, wrote: *Steve Barker wrote: Aaron Fude wrote: My washer is basically at the same level as the main stack (or whatever its horizontal equivalent). So there is not sufficient elevation to have * a p-trap on the exhaust (take my word for it - I just can't do it). So I bought a check valve at HD. I think it's intended for a sump pump. Will it solve my problem? And if so - what's the best location to install it. The PVC exhaust that the washer drains into has a vertical part that then flows into a horizontal part. Is better to install the check valve is far down the stream as possible? or the other way around? or six of one? another thought, unless your stated 'horizontal line' is on the ceiling, all you have to do is get above it. *The washer will pump several feet of head without problem. He said about 18 inches below the ceiling. There is NO problem Just install as I recommended in an earlier post, as advised by my plumber. Curious. *You see no possibility that your one plumber might have an opinion that is at variance with other plumbers, equally skilled, or a building inspector, who may be very skilled or not but still has the final word? This guy was one of the leading master plumbers in our metropolitan area and has done it many times and passed inspection. Leading...? Are they ranked where you are? What does a plumber use as a batting average or Golden Glove equivalent? Are you aware of anyone who has done it this way and NOT met inspection requirements? I don't personally know of anyone who has been bitten by a raccoon. That does not mean it doesn't happen. If not, go away. I think it's sweet that you take it personally when someone asks you a question. It means you're a sensitive thing and/or have a crush on the old guy. Not that there's anything wrong with that. I'll repeat my question: You're saying that a washing machine doesn't need a trap. If that were the case, why would anyone ever put in a trap? It's obviously simpler to do it your way. R |
Sewage gases: check valve?
On Thu, 22 Oct 2009 22:35:06 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour
wrote: On Oct 22, 8:57Â*pm, wrote: Steve Barker wrote: Aaron Fude wrote: My washer is basically at the same level as the main stack (or whatever its horizontal equivalent). So there is not sufficient elevation to have Â* a p-trap on the exhaust (take my word for it - I just can't do it). So I bought a check valve at HD. I think it's intended for a sump pump. Will it solve my problem? And if so - what's the best location to install it. The PVC exhaust that the washer drains into has a vertical part that then flows into a horizontal part. Is better to install the check valve is far down the stream as possible? or the other way around? or six of one? another thought, unless your stated 'horizontal line' is on the ceiling, all you have to do is get above it. Â*The washer will pump several feet of head without problem. He said about 18 inches below the ceiling. There is NO problem Just install as I recommended in an earlier post, as advised by my plumber. Curious. You see no possibility that your one plumber might have an opinion that is at variance with other plumbers, equally skilled, or a building inspector, who may be very skilled or not but still has the final word? This is the typical washing machine hose to PVC connector: http://doitbest.com/PVC+fittings-Fer...sku-416126.dib Note the little holes. You seem to be saying make a tight connection, no venting/equalization holes, no trap, and call it good. You're saying that a washing machine doesn't need a trap. If that were the case, why would anyone ever put in a trap? It's obviously simpler to do it your way. I don't necessarily foresee any complications in use doing it your way, but I don't see how it would pass code. Code calls for a trap. Some people don't care about code, many building (and home) inspectors do. Just saying... R THAT fitting is not the one to use. It is made for use with a "standpipe" Dumping directly into a 4" sewer lateral does not require external venting, as the pipe does not flow anywhere near full, and so is "self venting" to the stack. A trap works by keeeping a "wet seal". A washing machine drain pump is at the bottom of the machine and ALWAYS holds water unless gravity drained. Since the hose goes UP from the pump, water will always remain in the "trap" of the pump when the pump is shut off. A trap is only required to keep gases from being able to exit to the inhouse environment - and I did state that an "s trap" could be installed if you felt it was required. - but in my plumber's extensive experience it has not been an issue. So yes, in answer to your question, an airtight connection with no venting or equalization holes, and in all likelihood no trap either. If you want to be "safe" install a trap above the sewer latteral and then continue as described. |
Sewage gases: check valve?
On Fri, 23 Oct 2009 11:16:35 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour
wrote: On Oct 23, 1:52Â*pm, wrote: He owned and ran one of the most respected plumbing firms in the area - that's what I mean by "leading" Well respected by contractors and homeowners - if you had a plumbing problem and could get Ed, you got Ed. Sounds like a capable fellow. The reason traps are almost universally used on washers is because washers are USUALLY not hard-plumbed into the system. USUALLY they dump into a laundry tub, and more commonly as time goes by, into a standpipe connected to the laundrey tub drain. With an open connection, a trap is required. With a "gravity drain" a pump is required. With a pumpout system that holds water in the pump, a trap is not required. It is still simpler, for most people, in most instances, to simply provide a standpipe (with trap) or dump into a laundry tub - both of which require the very simple installation of a trap. And as I stated, if YOU want a trap, it is very simple in the situation described to add a trap to the setup. According to my plumber it is not required if done as described, but he did say it would be very simple to include a trap if desired (or if the washer pump did not hold enough water to maintain a seal). In his experience, he has not found an automatic washer that does not retain enough water to maintain a seal, UNLESS it has a siphon break at the top of the washer, which could not only allow a gas vent, but could also prevent pumping the water higher than the top of the washer. In existing houses, sure, the standpipe or tub drain is the way it's been done, and that's what people are used to, but what about new construction? New home builders aren't exactly the sort to throw money away. If the fitting is as simple as "insert hose, tighten clamp, and you're done", why would anyone bother with a trap at all? I am not saying it could not work, but it might not be allowed to work. If the building inspector says no, it's no. I wish there were some building inspectors on this newsgroup for such questions to provide an AHJ opinion. R The builder would have to supply the washer for it to be a "hard-plumbed" solution. |
Sewage gases: check valve?
On Oct 23, 3:35*pm, wrote:
On Fri, 23 Oct 2009 11:16:35 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour wrote: On Oct 23, 1:52*pm, wrote: He owned and ran one of the most respected plumbing firms in the area - that's what I mean by "leading" Well respected by contractors and homeowners - if you had a plumbing problem and could get Ed, you got Ed. Sounds like a capable fellow. The reason traps are almost universally used on washers is because washers are USUALLY not hard-plumbed into the system. USUALLY they dump into a laundry tub, and more commonly as time goes by, into a standpipe connected to the laundrey tub drain. With an open connection, a trap is required. With a "gravity drain" a pump is required. With a pumpout system that holds water in the pump, a trap is not required. It is still simpler, for most people, in most instances, to simply provide a standpipe (with trap) or dump into a laundry tub - both of which require the very simple installation of a trap. And as I stated, if YOU want a trap, it is very simple in the situation described to add a trap to the setup. According to my plumber it is not required if done as described, but he did say it would be very simple to include a trap if desired (or if the washer pump did not hold enough water to maintain a seal). In his experience, he has not found an automatic washer that does not retain enough water to maintain a seal, UNLESS it has a siphon break at the top of the washer, which could not only allow a gas vent, but could also prevent pumping the water higher than the top of the washer. In existing houses, sure, the standpipe or tub drain is the way it's been done, and that's what people are used to, but what about new construction? *New home builders aren't exactly the sort to throw money away. *If the fitting is as simple as "insert hose, tighten clamp, and you're done", why would anyone bother with a trap at all? I am not saying it could not work, but it might not be allowed to work. *If the building inspector says no, it's no. *I wish there were some building inspectors on this newsgroup for such questions to provide an AHJ opinion. The builder would have to supply the washer for it to be a "hard-plumbed" solution. It would be no different than a cleanout. Until it's put into use it's capped. R |
Sewage gases: check valve?
replying to Wayne Whitney, Bruce Land wrote:
Make a u shape in your washers disharge pipe, this will allow water to be traped. Make sure the area where the washer pipe joins the sewer line is properly sealed. -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ve-401544-.htm |
Sewage gases: check valve?
On Tuesday, August 29, 2017 at 5:14:11 PM UTC-4, Bruce Land wrote:
replying to Wayne Whitney, Bruce Land wrote: Make a u shape in your washers disharge pipe, this will allow water to be traped. Make sure the area where the washer pipe joins the sewer line is properly sealed. -- How does one "properly seal" where the washer hose joins the sewer line? What you just proposed does not meet code, period, so the question is rhetorical. Plus it's an old thread, the kind homemoanershub folks like to find and reply to as if the person is waiting for an answer. |
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