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stain or varnish or...
i have to re stain a wooden front door that has been baked by the sun to
the point that the stain behind the window in the storm door is a grayish color with a couple of good sized(4-5 inches long) cracks in the wood. the part of the door that is shaded by the bottom half of the storm door is in okay shape. i am planning on sanding the door with my palm sander but i am unsure about staining or varnishing after sanding..what is the difference between the two, also, it is an exterior door(with a storm door)how many coats? should i try stripping the existing stain vs. sanding? thanks, cj |
stain or varnish or...
"cj" wrote in message ... i have to re stain a wooden front door that has been baked by the sun to the point that the stain behind the window in the storm door is a grayish color with a couple of good sized(4-5 inches long) cracks in the wood. the part of the door that is shaded by the bottom half of the storm door is in okay shape. i am planning on sanding the door with my palm sander but i am unsure about staining or varnishing after sanding..what is the difference between the two, also, it is an exterior door(with a storm door)how many coats? should i try stripping the existing stain vs. sanding? thanks, cj Staining adds color and is absorbed a bit by the wood. Varnishing is a protective top coat. When you varnish, look for something with UV inhibitors, such as Min Wax Helmsman poly. Sanding is good for the spot where nothing is left, but you may want to strip if in bad shape, such as cracking, checking, peeling. I'd put three coats of poly varnish on. |
stain or varnish or...
cj wrote:
i have to re stain a wooden front door that has been baked by the sun to the point that the stain behind the window in the storm door is a grayish color with a couple of good sized(4-5 inches long) cracks in the wood. the part of the door that is shaded by the bottom half of the storm door is in okay shape. i am planning on sanding the door with my palm sander but i am unsure about staining or varnishing after sanding..what is the difference between the two, also, it is an exterior door(with a storm door)how many coats? should i try stripping the existing stain vs. sanding? thanks, cj The stain isn't gray - the wood is oxidized. The difference between stain and varnish - stain is color only, varnish is a clear coating that protects the wood. For wood doors with that sort of sun exposure, paint is a lot better - varnish has a sort of a "greenhouse" effect on wood - paint will keep sun off wood (in the shade, so to speak). If the cracks are all the way through the wood, you need to apply a flexible caulk or filler before finishing. Sand off the gray stuff. |
stain or varnish or...
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stain or varnish or...
i have to re stain a wooden front door that has been baked by the sun to the point that the stain behind the window in the storm door is a grayish color with a couple of good sized(4-5 inches long) cracks in the wood. the part of the door that is shaded by the bottom half of the storm door is in okay shape. i am planning on sanding the door with my palm sander but i am unsure about staining or varnishing after sanding..what is the difference between the two, also, it is an exterior door(with a storm door)how many coats? should i try stripping the existing stain vs. sanding? thanks, cj Unless you sand everything to the same level, you'll have some degree of color variation. After you do your initial sanding pass, wipe the door down with mineral spirits. It will color the wood just a little, giving you an idea of how it will look with finish on it. If you like the look, go ahead and apply the finish. If not, do more sanding. I recommend a spar varnish or spar polyurethane. "Spar" means the finish is appropriate for use on a boat's spar, which bends a lot, and the finish is flexible. A door that gets direct sun changes size during the day, so a flexible finish is a good thing. Also check for UV resistance. There is no permanent finish for exterior wood. They all have to be redone regularly. The best advice I've gotten, especially for west-facing doors, is to use a penetrating oil finish instead of a film-forming finish. With the oils, you just paint on another coat every six to twelve months. With film finishes, you have to sand or strip first. -- Steve Bell New Life Home Improvement Arlington, TX USA |
stain or varnish or...
On May 3, 5:12*pm, cj wrote:
i have to re stain a wooden front door that has been baked by the sun to the point that the stain behind the window in the storm door is a grayish color with a couple of good sized(4-5 inches long) cracks in the wood. the part of the door that is shaded by the bottom half of the storm door is in okay shape. i am planning on sanding the door with my palm sander but i am unsure about staining or varnishing after sanding..what is the difference between the two, also, it is an exterior door(with a storm door)how many coats? should i try stripping the existing stain vs. sanding? thanks, cj Redoing exterior doors is not simple and to much to go into without seeing it, if its a quality door, I used to spend 50-100 hrs restoring one door and I did maybe 30 of them. You need to strip it, sand it to new wood, and use a Marine finish if you want it to last, go to a real paint store to talk about it and read up, it can be a big job, even get bids from pros. |
stain or varnish or...
"DGDevin" wrote in message And be careful what kind of varnish or clear top coat you put over what kind of stain. I recently managed to put my foot in the paint can (so to speak) putting clear polyurethane over oil-based stain--oops. Paint sounds like a better idea unless for some reason you want some grain showing through. I've done that hundreds of times, as have tens of thousands of others. What was the problem? |
stain or varnish or...
cj wrote:
i have to re stain a wooden front door that has been baked by the sun to the point that the stain behind the window in the storm door is a grayish color with a couple of good sized(4-5 inches long) cracks in the wood. the part of the door that is shaded by the bottom half of the storm door is in okay shape. i am planning on sanding the door with my palm sander but i am unsure about staining or varnishing after sanding..what is the difference between the two, also, it is an exterior door(with a storm door)how many coats? should i try stripping the existing stain vs. sanding? thanks, cj Aside from any other comments you might consider getting a sun shielding film for the glass in the storm door. |
stain or varnish or...
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
And be careful what kind of varnish or clear top coat you put over what kind of stain. I recently managed to put my foot in the paint can (so to speak) putting clear polyurethane over oil-based stain--oops. Paint sounds like a better idea unless for some reason you want some grain showing through. I've done that hundreds of times, as have tens of thousands of others. What was the problem? It turned into a blotchy milky film, when I mentioned it to someone at the local Woodcraft he said he'd seen similar results before. The humidity wasn't high, I let the Minwax oil stain dry between applications and let the last one sit for a couple of days before putting on the Lawrence-McFadden poly. Of course with my generalized woodworking ignorance there could well be other factors I'm unaware of (that's usually a safe bet). |
stain or varnish or...
On May 4, 10:47*am, "DGDevin" wrote:
Ed Pawlowski wrote: And be careful what kind of varnish or clear top coat you put over what kind of stain. *I recently managed to put my foot in the paint can (so to speak) putting clear polyurethane over oil-based stain--oops. *Paint sounds like a better idea unless for some reason you want some grain showing through. I've done that hundreds of times, as have tens of thousands of others. What was the problem? It turned into a blotchy milky film, when I mentioned it to someone at the local Woodcraft he said he'd seen similar results before. *The humidity wasn't high, I let the Minwax oil stain dry between applications and let the last one sit for a couple of days before putting on the Lawrence-McFadden poly. *Of course with my generalized woodworking ignorance there could well be other factors I'm unaware of (that's usually a safe bet). The easiest thing to do after sanding is painting, That way you have no problems with the various absorption rates for the stain in the different parts of the old wood. |
stain or varnish or...
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stain or varnish or...
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stain or varnish or...
Paul Oman wrote:
It turned into a blotchy milky film, when I mentioned it to someone at the local Woodcraft he said he'd seen similar results before. The humidity wasn't high, I let the Minwax oil stain dry between applications and let the last one sit for a couple of days before putting on the Lawrence-McFadden poly. Of course with my generalized woodworking ignorance there could well be other factors I'm unaware of (that's usually a safe bet). Being in the epoxy business, I've seen the same. Think one needs to let the stains (oil or water) dry/cure for more than just a few days (say - guess - 1 or 2 weeks) before topcoating with anything. paul oman Thanks, that's useful info. I'm going to sand and start over, and use a gel urethane stain from the beginning which is what I should have done to start with. I'll bill myself by the hour on this job, I'll be rich! Errr, wait a minute.... |
stain or varnish or...
On May 4, 1:56*pm, Paul Oman wrote:
hr(bob) wrote: On May 4, 10:47 am, "DGDevin" wrote: Ed Pawlowski wrote: And be careful what kind of varnish or clear top coat you put over what kind of stain. *I recently managed to put my foot in the paint can (so to speak) putting clear polyurethane over oil-based stain--oops. *Paint sounds like a better idea unless for some reason you want some grain showing through. I've done that hundreds of times, as have tens of thousands of others.. What was the problem? It turned into a blotchy milky film, when I mentioned it to someone at the local Woodcraft he said he'd seen similar results before. *The humidity wasn't high, I let the Minwax oil stain dry between applications and let the last one sit for a couple of days before putting on the Lawrence-McFadden poly. *Of course with my generalized woodworking ignorance there could well be other factors I'm unaware of (that's usually a safe bet). The easiest thing to do after sanding is painting, *That way you have no problems with the various absorption rates for the stain in the different parts of the old wood. ---------------------------------------- Being in the epoxy business, I've seen the same. Think one needs to let the stains (oil or water) dry/cure for more than just a few days (say - guess - 1 or 2 weeks) before topcoating with anything. I don't think the amine blush you seem to be referring to is the same as what happened to DGDevin. Amine blush is due to high ambient humidity while the epoxy is curing. http://www.epoxyproducts.com/blush4u.html Minwax recommends an eight hour drying time with their normal stain if it's topcoated with some of their products and 24 hours if their Polycrylic topcoat is used. "CLEAR FINISH APPLICATION: * After a minimum of 8 hours, apply a clear, protective finish such as Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane, Minwax® Helmsman® Spar Urethane or after 24 hours, apply clear Minwax® Polycrylic® Protective Finish." DGDevin didn't give any details about what the conditions were, temperature, whether the door was removed, if the stain was new or old, etc. There's usually no problem putting a polyurethane finish over oil stain, and Minwax wouldn't lowball the drying time by a factor of ten or more. There's no point in them lowballing the drying time at all. Minwax has no problem with water-based clear finishes over oil stains....their oil stains and their clear finishes. If you start mixing manufacturers all bets are off and you'll have to make some test samples. From Minwax's site: "Q: Where can I use Water Based Polyurethane? Water Based Polyurethane is ideal for use on all interior bare or stained wood surfaces sincluding furniture, cabinets, doors and floors. It can be applied over oil-based stains like Minwax® Wood Finish or Minwax® Gel Stain. It also can be applied over Minwax® Water- Based Wood Stain wood tones, provided the stain has dried completely." And this about their gel stains: "Do not apply a protective clear finish if the last coat of Minwax® Gel Stain can be removed with a rag moistened with mineral spirits." R |
stain or varnish or...
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