Hello. I had a roof leak that softened by plaster and lathe shower
wall and bulged the wall. I removed all the tiles from the affected
area, removed the P&L and installed Durock. I'm now ready to re-tile.
I just wanted to get some advice on how to best do this. I have read
countless posts indicating that you can forget the premixed adhesives
for shower walls, so I will be using a dry modified thinset. My main
concern (other than mixing the thinset to the proper consistency) is
making sure the tiles don't slide down the wall. Maybe this won't be
an issue since they are only 4 x 4 or so but i'm not sure. since I'm
replacing tiles I really can't start at the bottom and work my way up,
it really has to be from the top down, beginning where the existing
tiles are still on the wall.

Can anyone recommend a thinset with good adhesion and/or give me some
tips to keep the tiles in place? I've already read that I should keep
my trowel lines horizontal, which makes sense. Should I be taping the
tiles to the tiles above as I work my way down?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

On Apr 17, 9:56*am, Arbee wrote:
Hello. I had a roof leak that softened by plaster and lathe shower
wall and bulged the wall. I removed all the tiles from the affected
area, removed the P&L and installed Durock. I'm now ready to re-tile.
I just wanted to get some advice on how to best do this. I have read
countless posts indicating that you can forget the premixed adhesives
for shower walls, so I will be using a dry modified thinset. My main
concern (other than mixing the thinset to the proper consistency) is
making sure the tiles don't slide down the wall. Maybe this won't be
an issue since they are only 4 x 4 or so but i'm not sure. since I'm
replacing tiles I really can't start at the bottom and work my way up,
it really has to be from the top down, beginning where the existing
tiles are still on the wall.

Can anyone recommend a thinset with good adhesion and/or give me some
tips to keep the tiles in place? I've already read that I should keep
my trowel lines horizontal, which makes sense. Should I be taping the
tiles to the tiles above as I work my way down?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

You should be fine with 4x4 tiles. I recently did a bathroom with 6x6
tiles and had no sliding problems on the cement board or the drywall
using tile mortar from the Borg.

If you are concerned start at the bottom and work your way up using
those plastic tile spacers. If your tile has those little self-
spacing nubs you shouldn't need anything.

FWIW I did a shower 4 years ago using mastic and the tiles are still
solid. They were 4x4 and well-grouted after giving the mastic a few
days to dry. From what I have heard the problem with the pre-mixed
stuff is it never fully cures on larger tiles because the air can't
get to the center of the tile. Who knows, it could all be urban
legend...

On Apr 17, 11:19*am, Limp Arbor wrote:
On Apr 17, 9:56*am, Arbee wrote:



Hello. I had a roof leak that softened by plaster and lathe shower
wall and bulged the wall. I removed all the tiles from the affected
area, removed the P&L and installed Durock. I'm now ready to re-tile.
I just wanted to get some advice on how to best do this. I have read
countless posts indicating that you can forget the premixed adhesives
for shower walls, so I will be using a dry modified thinset. My main
concern (other than mixing the thinset to the proper consistency) is
making sure the tiles don't slide down the wall. Maybe this won't be
an issue since they are only 4 x 4 or so but i'm not sure. since I'm
replacing tiles I really can't start at the bottom and work my way up,
it really has to be from the top down, beginning where the existing
tiles are still on the wall.

Can anyone recommend a thinset with good adhesion and/or give me some
tips to keep the tiles in place? I've already read that I should keep
my trowel lines horizontal, which makes sense. Should I be taping the
tiles to the tiles above as I work my way down?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

You should be fine with 4x4 tiles. *I recently did a bathroom with 6x6
tiles and had no sliding problems on the cement board or the drywall
using tile mortar from the Borg.

If you are concerned start at the bottom and work your way up using
those plastic tile spacers. *If your tile has those little self-
spacing nubs you shouldn't need anything.

FWIW I did a shower 4 years ago using mastic and the tiles are still
solid. *They were 4x4 and well-grouted after giving the mastic a few
days to dry. *From what I have heard the problem with the pre-mixed
stuff is it never fully cures on larger tiles because the air can't
get to the center of the tile. *Who knows, it could all be urban
legend...

Thanks for the reply. Your 6x6 experience makes me feel a bit better.
Tiling just makes me nervous, once you put some thinset on the wall
it's game on, no turning back. Fear of commitment, I guess.

Arbee wrote:
On Apr 17, 11:19 am, Limp Arbor wrote:
On Apr 17, 9:56 am, Arbee wrote:



Hello. I had a roof leak that softened by plaster and lathe shower
wall and bulged the wall. I removed all the tiles from the affected
area, removed the P&L and installed Durock. I'm now ready to
re-tile. I just wanted to get some advice on how to best do this. I
have read countless posts indicating that you can forget the
premixed adhesives for shower walls, so I will be using a dry
modified thinset. My main concern (other than mixing the thinset to
the proper consistency) is making sure the tiles don't slide down
the wall. Maybe this won't be an issue since they are only 4 x 4 or
so but i'm not sure. since I'm replacing tiles I really can't start
at the bottom and work my way up, it really has to be from the top
down, beginning where the existing tiles are still on the wall.

Can anyone recommend a thinset with good adhesion and/or give me
some tips to keep the tiles in place? I've already read that I
should keep my trowel lines horizontal, which makes sense. Should I
be taping the tiles to the tiles above as I work my way down?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

You should be fine with 4x4 tiles. I recently did a bathroom with 6x6
tiles and had no sliding problems on the cement board or the drywall
using tile mortar from the Borg.

If you are concerned start at the bottom and work your way up using
those plastic tile spacers. If your tile has those little self-
spacing nubs you shouldn't need anything.

FWIW I did a shower 4 years ago using mastic and the tiles are still
solid. They were 4x4 and well-grouted after giving the mastic a few
days to dry. From what I have heard the problem with the pre-mixed
stuff is it never fully cures on larger tiles because the air can't
get to the center of the tile. Who knows, it could all be urban
legend...

Thanks for the reply. Your 6x6 experience makes me feel a bit better.
Tiling just makes me nervous, once you put some thinset on the wall
it's game on, no turning back. Fear of commitment, I guess.

Nahhh...you can always scrape off the thinset. And if you've already stuck
on tiles they'll pop off easily enough for some time.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Arbee wrote:
Hello. I had a roof leak that softened by plaster and lathe shower
wall and bulged the wall. I removed all the tiles from the affected
area, removed the P&L and installed Durock. I'm now ready to re-tile.
I just wanted to get some advice on how to best do this. I have read
countless posts indicating that you can forget the premixed adhesives
for shower walls, so I will be using a dry modified thinset. My main
concern (other than mixing the thinset to the proper consistency) is
making sure the tiles don't slide down the wall. Maybe this won't be
an issue since they are only 4 x 4 or so but i'm not sure. since I'm
replacing tiles I really can't start at the bottom and work my way up,
it really has to be from the top down, beginning where the existing
tiles are still on the wall.

Can anyone recommend a thinset with good adhesion and/or give me some
tips to keep the tiles in place? I've already read that I should keep
my trowel lines horizontal, which makes sense. Should I be taping the
tiles to the tiles above as I work my way down?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

1. Any old thinset should be fine.

2. Mix it so it will form peaks that don't slump and it will hold up those
little tiles just fine.

3. I can't think of any reason why you should comb out the mortar
horizontally. Even if I could I wouldn't bother

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Apr 17, 12:03*pm, "dadiOH" wrote:
Arbee wrote:
Hello. I had a roof leak that softened by plaster and lathe shower
wall and bulged the wall. I removed all the tiles from the affected
area, removed the P&L and installed Durock. I'm now ready to re-tile.
I just wanted to get some advice on how to best do this. I have read
countless posts indicating that you can forget the premixed adhesives
for shower walls, so I will be using a dry modified thinset. My main
concern (other than mixing the thinset to the proper consistency) is
making sure the tiles don't slide down the wall. Maybe this won't be
an issue since they are only 4 x 4 or so but i'm not sure. since I'm
replacing tiles I really can't start at the bottom and work my way up,
it really has to be from the top down, beginning where the existing
tiles are still on the wall.

Can anyone recommend a thinset with good adhesion and/or give me some
tips to keep the tiles in place? I've already read that I should keep
my trowel lines horizontal, which makes sense. Should I be taping the
tiles to the tiles above as I work my way down?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

1. Any old thinset should be fine.

2. Mix it so it will form peaks that don't slump and it will hold up those
little tiles just fine.

3. *I can't think of any reason why you should comb out the mortar
horizontally. *Even if I could I wouldn't bother *

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Use a small V-notched trowel like 3/16" X 3/16".

On Apr 17, 12:28*pm, Mike rock wrote:
On Apr 17, 12:03*pm, "dadiOH" wrote:



Arbee wrote:
Hello. I had a roof leak that softened by plaster and lathe shower
wall and bulged the wall. I removed all the tiles from the affected
area, removed the P&L and installed Durock. I'm now ready to re-tile.
I just wanted to get some advice on how to best do this. I have read
countless posts indicating that you can forget the premixed adhesives
for shower walls, so I will be using a dry modified thinset. My main
concern (other than mixing the thinset to the proper consistency) is
making sure the tiles don't slide down the wall. Maybe this won't be
an issue since they are only 4 x 4 or so but i'm not sure. since I'm
replacing tiles I really can't start at the bottom and work my way up,
it really has to be from the top down, beginning where the existing
tiles are still on the wall.

Can anyone recommend a thinset with good adhesion and/or give me some
tips to keep the tiles in place? I've already read that I should keep
my trowel lines horizontal, which makes sense. Should I be taping the
tiles to the tiles above as I work my way down?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

1. Any old thinset should be fine.

2. Mix it so it will form peaks that don't slump and it will hold up those
little tiles just fine.

3. *I can't think of any reason why you should comb out the mortar
horizontally. *Even if I could I wouldn't bother *

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico-Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Use a small V-notched trowel like 3/16" X 3/16".

Thanks all for your replies. This won't be so bad after all!

On Apr 17, 2:11*pm, Arbee wrote:

Thanks all for your replies. This won't be so bad after all!

Tiling is fun...long as you don't have too much of it to do.

Feel free to use tape to hold those wandering tiles in place. Use
plastic spacers, scraps of cardboard, toothpicks or whatever, then
when the tile is lined up right tape it in place.

If you want to learn more about tiling, the best resources I've found
are the John Bridge tile forums online, and the Taunton Press' tile
books by Michael Byrne. Pick up a copy on eBay for ten bucks.

R

Arbee wrote:

On Apr 17, 11:19Â*am, Limp Arbor wrote:
On Apr 17, 9:56Â*am, Arbee wrote:



Hello. I had a roof leak that softened by plaster and lathe shower
wall and bulged the wall. I removed all the tiles from the affected
area, removed the P&L and installed Durock. I'm now ready to re-tile.
I just wanted to get some advice on how to best do this. I have read
countless posts indicating that you can forget the premixed adhesives
for shower walls, so I will be using a dry modified thinset. My main
concern (other than mixing the thinset to the proper consistency) is
making sure the tiles don't slide down the wall. Maybe this won't be
an issue since they are only 4 x 4 or so but i'm not sure. since I'm
replacing tiles I really can't start at the bottom and work my way up,
it really has to be from the top down, beginning where the existing
tiles are still on the wall.

Can anyone recommend a thinset with good adhesion and/or give me some
tips to keep the tiles in place? I've already read that I should keep
my trowel lines horizontal, which makes sense. Should I be taping the
tiles to the tiles above as I work my way down?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

You should be fine with 4x4 tiles. Â*I recently did a bathroom with 6x6
tiles and had no sliding problems on the cement board or the drywall
using tile mortar from the Borg.

If you are concerned start at the bottom and work your way up using
those plastic tile spacers. Â*If your tile has those little self-
spacing nubs you shouldn't need anything.

FWIW I did a shower 4 years ago using mastic and the tiles are still
solid. Â*They were 4x4 and well-grouted after giving the mastic a few
days to dry. Â*From what I have heard the problem with the pre-mixed
stuff is it never fully cures on larger tiles because the air can't
get to the center of the tile. Â*Who knows, it could all be urban
legend...

Thanks for the reply. Your 6x6 experience makes me feel a bit better.
Tiling just makes me nervous, once you put some thinset on the wall
it's game on, no turning back. Fear of commitment, I guess.

You should also make sure your corners are square and plumb. Try not to get
to a point where you have smaller than 1/3 of a tile in those corners. Line
up your tiles first and move them left or right so you get as much tile on
either side where they meet in the corners. When tiling is done instead of
using grout in the corners use a colored grout caulk. Probably, non sanded
in your case. Corners can move with the settling of the house and grout can
crack. Caulk will give and flex. There's many books on this subject and you
should get one. Like using a ledger board screwed temporaryly to the hardy
board to use as a starting point. I always use them to start my second row.
Install it just short of a full tile. Reason. Bathtubs are now always level
and you may have to cut tile for that first row. GET A BOOK. I could write
a book just trying to explain many other tips on tiling I have given you
like 5 already.

Rich
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
Running Mandriva release 2008.0 free-i586 using KDE on i586
Website Address http://rentmyhusband.biz/