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Default Dark building light ideas

I've been asked to do several "dark building inspections".
Retail stores, which are closed for business. One of the
things to do, is to take a lot of digital photos, and email
them to the headquarters.

The one building I was in, had electricity, but for whatever
reason, I couldn't get the lights to work. So, I'm walking
around with my Mag light, and a flash camera, taking photos
of wall damage, water on the floor, and so on.

I'd like to find some kind of light that will have good
output, and be a fairly even light. Flood light, of some
kind. To suppliment the light that my flash camera provides.
The last time I was in the store, I was there for about
three hours. So, the light should ideally work for at least
three hours on a charge, or on a set of batteries.

Ideas?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..



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Default Dark building light ideas


Stormin Mormon wrote:

I've been asked to do several "dark building inspections".
Retail stores, which are closed for business. One of the
things to do, is to take a lot of digital photos, and email
them to the headquarters.

The one building I was in, had electricity, but for whatever
reason, I couldn't get the lights to work. So, I'm walking
around with my Mag light, and a flash camera, taking photos
of wall damage, water on the floor, and so on.

I'd like to find some kind of light that will have good
output, and be a fairly even light. Flood light, of some
kind. To suppliment the light that my flash camera provides.
The last time I was in the store, I was there for about
three hours. So, the light should ideally work for at least
three hours on a charge, or on a set of batteries.


You may need a couple to get your three hours, but those cheap
rechargeable "million candlepower" spotlights with the H3 lamps would
probably do the job, possibly with a little diffusion added to soften
the beam. I also read good reviews of a handheld rechargeable HID lamp
that Harbor Freight sells/sold (don't know the number offhand) for about
$100. A slave strobe for the digital camera would probably help as well.
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Default Dark building light ideas

Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've been asked to do several "dark building inspections".
Retail stores, which are closed for business. One of the
things to do, is to take a lot of digital photos, and email
them to the headquarters.

The one building I was in, had electricity, but for whatever
reason, I couldn't get the lights to work. So, I'm walking
around with my Mag light, and a flash camera, taking photos
of wall damage, water on the floor, and so on.

I'd like to find some kind of light that will have good
output, and be a fairly even light. Flood light, of some
kind. To suppliment the light that my flash camera provides.
The last time I was in the store, I was there for about
three hours. So, the light should ideally work for at least
three hours on a charge, or on a set of batteries.

Ideas?


Assuming you find a satisfactory incandescent light, remember that the color
of the light it puts out is much warmer (redder) than the light from your
flash. I don't know if that disparity in color would bother you or not but
if so you can fix it either by...

1. using a blue filter over the incandescent light
2. using a warming filter over the flash

Of the two, I'd choose #2. I don't recall the necessary filter number (it
is salmon colored) but any decent camera store should be able to tell you;
basically, it is a "flash to tungsten conversion filter". Not likely they
would have it but could order. You don't need a glass filter, just an
acetate one large enough to tape over the front of the flash.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico



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Default Dark building light ideas

You could get a couple of old style car headlights and build some kind
of adjustable stand stand for them. You could run them off your jumper
pack. There are also a lot of different 12 volt lights for various uses
with RV's. Not sure exactly how long the jp will run them, but it would
be easy enough to find out. Larry

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Default Dark building light ideas

Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've been asked to do several "dark building inspections".
Retail stores, which are closed for business. One of the
things to do, is to take a lot of digital photos, and email
them to the headquarters.

The one building I was in, had electricity, but for whatever
reason, I couldn't get the lights to work. So, I'm walking
around with my Mag light, and a flash camera, taking photos
of wall damage, water on the floor, and so on.

I'd like to find some kind of light that will have good
output, and be a fairly even light. Flood light, of some
kind. To suppliment the light that my flash camera provides.
The last time I was in the store, I was there for about
three hours. So, the light should ideally work for at least
three hours on a charge, or on a set of batteries.

Ideas?

They make 12 volt compact fluorescent
"twist-type" lamps.
Google 12 volt compact fluorescent light
bulbs, and you'll
get a whole bunch. You can get nice 12
volt supplies used
for some older and larger pro video
camcorders. They usually
have the batteries in a nylon case with
a shoulder strap or some
even come as a "battery belt" to be worn
around the waist.


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Default Dark building light ideas

That's a thought. Maybe run it off a battery jumper pack.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...


You may need a couple to get your three hours, but those
cheap
rechargeable "million candlepower" spotlights with the H3
lamps would
probably do the job, possibly with a little diffusion added
to soften
the beam. I also read good reviews of a handheld
rechargeable HID lamp
that Harbor Freight sells/sold (don't know the number
offhand) for about
$100. A slave strobe for the digital camera would probably
help as well.


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Default Dark building light ideas

Incandescent is fine with me. Or fluorescent. I am less
happy with LED, which tends to be more blue.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"dadiOH" wrote in message
...

Assuming you find a satisfactory incandescent light,
remember that the color
of the light it puts out is much warmer (redder) than the
light from your
flash. I don't know if that disparity in color would bother
you or not but
if so you can fix it either by...

1. using a blue filter over the incandescent light
2. using a warming filter over the flash

Of the two, I'd choose #2. I don't recall the necessary
filter number (it
is salmon colored) but any decent camera store should be
able to tell you;
basically, it is a "flash to tungsten conversion filter".
Not likely they
would have it but could order. You don't need a glass
filter, just an
acetate one large enough to tape over the front of the
flash.

--

dadiOH


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Default Dark building light ideas

I did find an "off road" light at Harbor Freight. Thinking
about that, and the jumper pack. Some kind of wheeled
luggage cart, to roll it around. And some kind of gooseneck,
so I can point the light, and then go take photos without
the other hand holding the light.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Lp1331 1p1331" wrote in message
...
You could get a couple of old style car headlights and build
some kind
of adjustable stand stand for them. You could run them off
your jumper
pack. There are also a lot of different 12 volt lights for
various uses
with RV's. Not sure exactly how long the jp will run them,
but it would
be easy enough to find out. Larry


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Default Dark building light ideas

Hmmm..... Didn't know that about 12 volt CF. I've seen
camping lanterns that looked good. I did try my $10 Ozark
Trail camping lantern the last time I was in the dark
building. Did reasonably well, up close. It also was a big
help for walking around the building.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Art Todesco" wrote in message
...
Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've been asked to do several "dark building inspections".
Retail stores, which are closed for business. One of the
things to do, is to take a lot of digital photos, and
email
them to the headquarters.

The one building I was in, had electricity, but for
whatever
reason, I couldn't get the lights to work. So, I'm walking
around with my Mag light, and a flash camera, taking
photos
of wall damage, water on the floor, and so on.

I'd like to find some kind of light that will have good
output, and be a fairly even light. Flood light, of some
kind. To suppliment the light that my flash camera
provides.
The last time I was in the store, I was there for about
three hours. So, the light should ideally work for at
least
three hours on a charge, or on a set of batteries.

Ideas?

They make 12 volt compact fluorescent
"twist-type" lamps.
Google 12 volt compact fluorescent light
bulbs, and you'll
get a whole bunch. You can get nice 12
volt supplies used
for some older and larger pro video
camcorders. They usually
have the batteries in a nylon case with
a shoulder strap or some
even come as a "battery belt" to be worn
around the waist.


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Default Dark building light ideas

Stormin Mormon wrote:
Hmmm..... Didn't know that about 12 volt CF. I've seen
camping lanterns that looked good. I did try my $10 Ozark
Trail camping lantern the last time I was in the dark
building. Did reasonably well, up close. It also was a big
help for walking around the building.

Just to add on the CF, I have used them
in one of those clamp-on
reflectors for shooting video. You get
a pretty good light spread
and they are much kinder to batteries
than the incandescent ones
for the same amount of light.


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Default Dark building light ideas

Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've been asked to do several "dark building inspections".
Retail stores, which are closed for business. One of the
things to do, is to take a lot of digital photos, and email
them to the headquarters.

The one building I was in, had electricity, but for whatever
reason, I couldn't get the lights to work. So, I'm walking
around with my Mag light, and a flash camera, taking photos
of wall damage, water on the floor, and so on.

I'd like to find some kind of light that will have good
output, and be a fairly even light. Flood light, of some
kind. To suppliment the light that my flash camera provides.
The last time I was in the store, I was there for about
three hours. So, the light should ideally work for at least
three hours on a charge, or on a set of batteries.

Ideas?


Anything here strike your fancy?
http://www.21best.com/21_best/electr...r_sale_.html#4

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico



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Default Dark building light ideas

On Mar 1, 8:18*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
I've been asked to do several "dark building inspections".
Retail stores, which are closed for business. One of the
things to do, is to take a lot of digital photos, and email
them to the headquarters.

The one building I was in, had electricity, but for whatever
reason, I couldn't get the lights to work. So, I'm walking
around with my Mag light, and a flash camera, taking photos
of wall damage, water on the floor, and so on.

I'd like to find some kind of light that will have good
output, and be a fairly even light. Flood light, of some
kind. To suppliment the light that my flash camera provides.
The last time I was in the store, I was there for about
three hours. So, the light should ideally work for at least
three hours on a charge, or on a set of batteries.

Ideas?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.


Is camera also manual operation, a full open shutter and higher iso
helps alot. Increase iso until noise ruins the photo. Does the camera
have a Hot Shoe to add on a flash, is camera flash manualy adjusted to
full bright. Some cameras can slave a flash by cable. A tri pod is
cheap and can help alot. HD has a 1.5w head worn led light that is
bright for 25$. HD has several that are not as bright. Flashes have
limited range, being closer to the subject will make it brighter.
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Default Dark building light ideas

On Sun, 1 Mar 2009 09:18:11 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I've been asked to do several "dark building inspections".
Retail stores, which are closed for business. One of the
things to do, is to take a lot of digital photos, and email
them to the headquarters.

The one building I was in, had electricity, but for whatever
reason, I couldn't get the lights to work. So, I'm walking
around with my Mag light, and a flash camera, taking photos
of wall damage, water on the floor, and so on.

I'd like to find some kind of light that will have good
output, and be a fairly even light. Flood light, of some
kind. To suppliment the light that my flash camera provides.
The last time I was in the store, I was there for about
three hours. So, the light should ideally work for at least
three hours on a charge, or on a set of batteries.

Ideas?


Back in high school I worked for a photo studio and we often
faced that kind of situation.

The answer is a time exposure and painting the light. You
need to have a camera capable of a time exposure and a light source.
Back in those days we did mostly B&W so the color of the light was not
an issue, but today if you were using more than one light source you
would want them to be close to the same color temperature.

Set the camera on a tripod or something that is not moving.
Open the shutter and start painting the room with light. It need not
be all lit at the same time. You can use photographic flash or
continuous light.

It may take a few tries to get the idea and to be able to
judge the amount of light needed, but with a little practice it will
work

I remember Sylvania used to do one BIG SHOOT a year, where
they used lots and lots of flash bulbs to light up something really
really big. I seem to recall them lighting up the landing of an air
plane for a movie by setting them by the edge of the runway and
triggering them as the plane when by.
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Default Dark building light ideas

On Sun, 1 Mar 2009 09:18:11 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I would like to add to my prior response. You don't need to
light the whole thing at the same time and you can walk around in the
relative dark between flashes as your image will not be recorded.
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I do have what I fondly call a "clamp lamp". Which I used to
use, back when I did more furnace installs. My boss used to
use a clamp lamp with 150 watt bulb (one hundred fifty) and
working with that lamp on was like being in a toaster oven
with a nuclear flash to go with it. I really hated that
lamp.

The advantage, of course. Is that I already have a booster
pack, 150 watt inverter, and clamp lamp with fluorescent
bulb. How did you know that? You psychic powers are
excellent.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Art Todesco" wrote in message
...

Just to add on the CF, I have used them
in one of those clamp-on
reflectors for shooting video. You get
a pretty good light spread
and they are much kinder to batteries
than the incandescent ones
for the same amount of light.




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Default Dark building light ideas

Yes, but way out of my price range. I do have a 7 amp
battery I got off Ebay. I could rig that to an "off road"
light from Harbor Freight, and really light up a building.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
Anything here strike your fancy?
http://www.21best.com/21_best/electr...r_sale_.html#4

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico




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Default Dark building light ideas

That's a very valid technique, but I don't have a bulb
setting on my digital camera. It would work with film,
though.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...

Back in high school I worked for a photo studio and we often
faced that kind of situation.

The answer is a time exposure and painting the light. You
need to have a camera capable of a time exposure and a light
source.
Back in those days we did mostly B&W so the color of the
light was not
an issue, but today if you were using more than one light
source you
would want them to be close to the same color temperature.

Set the camera on a tripod or something that is not moving.
Open the shutter and start painting the room with light. It
need not
be all lit at the same time. You can use photographic flash
or
continuous light.

It may take a few tries to get the idea and to be able to
judge the amount of light needed, but with a little practice
it will
work

I remember Sylvania used to do one BIG SHOOT a year, where
they used lots and lots of flash bulbs to light up something
really
really big. I seem to recall them lighting up the landing
of an air
plane for a movie by setting them by the edge of the runway
and
triggering them as the plane when by.


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Default Dark building light ideas

On Mar 2, 4:49*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
That's a very valid technique, but I don't have a bulb
setting on my digital camera. It would work with film,
though.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

wrote in message

...

Back in high school I worked for a photo studio and we often
faced that kind of situation.

The answer is a time exposure and painting the light. *You
need to have a camera capable of a time exposure and a light
source.
Back in those days we did mostly B&W so the color of the
light was not
an issue, but today if you were using more than one light
source you
would want them to be close to the same color temperature.

Set the camera on a tripod or something that is not moving.
Open the shutter and start painting the room with light. *It
need not
be all lit at the same time. *You can use photographic flash
or
continuous light.

It may take a few tries to get the idea and to be able to
judge the amount of light needed, but with a little practice
it will
work

I remember Sylvania used to do one BIG SHOOT a year, where
they used lots and lots of flash bulbs to light up something
really
really big. *I seem to recall them lighting up the landing
of an air
plane for a movie by setting them by the edge of the runway
and
triggering them as the plane when by.


Most P%S dont have bulb setting but have 15-30 seconds, that is enough
to fire multiple flashes.
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In article ,
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

I've been asked to do several "dark building inspections".
Retail stores, which are closed for business. One of the
things to do, is to take a lot of digital photos, and email
them to the headquarters.

The one building I was in, had electricity, but for whatever
reason, I couldn't get the lights to work. So, I'm walking
around with my Mag light, and a flash camera, taking photos
of wall damage, water on the floor, and so on.

I'd like to find some kind of light that will have good
output, and be a fairly even light. Flood light, of some
kind. To suppliment the light that my flash camera provides.
The last time I was in the store, I was there for about
three hours. So, the light should ideally work for at least
three hours on a charge, or on a set of batteries.

Ideas?


Yer gonna get much better pictures if you put the camera on a tripod,
use the self-timer, and turn off the flash. (Assuming there's a modest
amount of ambient light coming in through a window or two, that is.) So
fuggedabout extra lighting, just take advantage of long exposures.
G'ahead, try it at home and you'll become a convert.
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I most certainly did NOT write that.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...

On Sun, 1 Mar 2009 09:18:11 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I would like to add to my prior response. You don't need to
light the whole thing at the same time and you can walk
around in the
relative dark between flashes as your image will not be
recorded.




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On Mar 3, 11:10�am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
The two ideas which have the most sense at the moment. I've
got a couple RV ceiling lights which are 12 volt. I can
switch one bulb, or two. And they could be hand held, with
some sort of storage battery. Also off road lights are
supposed to have good output, and wide, diffuse light
spread.

You're right, the inverter is a power loss. I've got a 12
volt fluorescent work light, but it's a long bulb with no
reflector.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
�www.lds.org
.

"Art Todesco" wrote in message

...

Carnac says thanks. �While that would
work, there are
inefficiencies in the inverter which
wastes battery power. �Also,
you have to carry the inverter. �Using a
12 volt CFL would
improve things.


new inverters are much more efficent, my best friend has 12 volt
circuit thru home, he has a windmill.

he added a inverter at each light to power each CF light, the standard
120 volt ones.

his power use dropped dramatically, 8 CFs on invereters less than one
50 watt incandescent.

plus 12 volt CFs cost a fortune, 20 bucks each so dont drop them.

get a inverter, its useful for all sorts of stuff
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Since CF bulbs don't take all that much power, wouldn't it
make more sense to use one inverter, and run 110 volt
modified sine to the various lights? Much less power line
loss at higher voltages.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"bob haller" wrote in message
...


new inverters are much more efficent, my best friend has 12
volt
circuit thru home, he has a windmill.

he added a inverter at each light to power each CF light,
the standard
120 volt ones.

his power use dropped dramatically, 8 CFs on invereters less
than one
50 watt incandescent.

plus 12 volt CFs cost a fortune, 20 bucks each so dont drop
them.

get a inverter, its useful for all sorts of stuff


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On Wed, 4 Mar 2009 08:04:33 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I most certainly did NOT write that.


Sorry if it sounded as if you did. That was the only easy way for
me to add to my prior message. I tried to make that clear, but
apparently I did not do as well as I would have liked. Please accept
my apology.
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You can't apologize! This is usenet!

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Christopher A. Young
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wrote in message
...
On Wed, 4 Mar 2009 08:04:33 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I most certainly did NOT write that.


Sorry if it sounded as if you did. That was the only
easy way for
me to add to my prior message. I tried to make that clear,
but
apparently I did not do as well as I would have liked.
Please accept
my apology.


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