House is about 10 years old and no manual in sight.
Suggestions based on experience??

TIA

Lou

"LouB" wrote in message
...
House is about 10 years old and no manual in sight.
Suggestions based on experience??

TIA

Lou

For starters how about a little more info such as where is the "clunk"
coming from? Opener or door?
Is it binding?
Does it "clunk" with the opener disconnected and operated manually?

No where near enough info for even a guess......

"benick" wrote in message
. ..

"LouB" wrote in message
...
House is about 10 years old and no manual in sight.
Suggestions based on experience??

TIA

Lou

For starters how about a little more info such as where is the "clunk"
coming from? Opener or door?
Is it binding?
Does it "clunk" with the opener disconnected and operated manually?

No where near enough info for even a guess......



Guy who posts something like that-- just tell him to put cotton in his ears.
Problem solved...

benick wrote:

"LouB" wrote in message
...
House is about 10 years old and no manual in sight.
Suggestions based on experience??

TIA

Lou

For starters how about a little more info such as where is the "clunk"
coming from? Opener or door?
Is it binding?
Does it "clunk" with the opener disconnected and operated manually?

No where near enough info for even a guess......


Clunk occurs as door comes down under power. Never thought to try door
without power and will do so.

Lou

Joseph Wheeler wrote:
"benick" wrote in message
. ..
"LouB" wrote in message
...
House is about 10 years old and no manual in sight.
Suggestions based on experience??

TIA

Lou
For starters how about a little more info such as where is the "clunk"
coming from? Opener or door?
Is it binding?
Does it "clunk" with the opener disconnected and operated manually?

No where near enough info for even a guess......



Guy who posts something like that-- just tell him to put cotton in his ears.
Problem solved...


Your helpful comment shows how smart you are.

Lou

try getting manual from door makers web site. it may assist you.

"LouB" wrote in message
...
benick wrote:

"LouB" wrote in message
...
House is about 10 years old and no manual in sight.
Suggestions based on experience??

TIA

Lou

For starters how about a little more info such as where is the "clunk"
coming from? Opener or door?
Is it binding?
Does it "clunk" with the opener disconnected and operated manually?

No where near enough info for even a guess......


Clunk occurs as door comes down under power. Never thought to try door
without power and will do so.

Lou

"LouB" wrote in message
...
Joseph Wheeler wrote:
"benick" wrote in message
. ..
"LouB" wrote in message
...
House is about 10 years old and no manual in sight.
Suggestions based on experience??

TIA

Lou
For starters how about a little more info such as where is the "clunk"
coming from? Opener or door?
Is it binding?
Does it "clunk" with the opener disconnected and operated manually?

No where near enough info for even a guess......



Guy who posts something like that-- just tell him to put cotton in his
ears. Problem solved...
Your helpful comment shows how smart you are.

Lou

Louie, your wife often whispers the same thing in my ear right
afterwards....

"LouB" wrote in message
...
House is about 10 years old and no manual in sight.
Suggestions based on experience??

TIA

Lou
It may be a simple as adjusting the limit switch to keep the door from
closing hard enough to give the forceful closing.

LouB wrote in :

House is about 10 years old and no manual in sight.
Suggestions based on experience??

TIA

Lou

Here is my input based on the info you took all the trouble to give.

begin input




end input

On Feb 11, 3:22�pm, LouB wrote:


Clunk occurs as door comes down under power. �Never thought to try door
without power and will do so.

Lou-

Could be a number of causes. Garage door opener needs adjusted. Garage
door springs need adjusted........Or ( my first guess), if you live
in a freeze area, the floor may have heaved up due to freezing causing
it to "clunk" when it fully closed. You can adjust the travel limit of
your opener to compensate if it is due to freezing.

Hank

On Wed, 11 Feb 2009 20:39:03 -0800, "elgee"
wrote:


"LouB" wrote in message
...
House is about 10 years old and no manual in sight.
Suggestions based on experience??

TIA

Lou
It may be a simple as adjusting the limit switch to keep the door from
closing hard enough to give the forceful closing.


I agree. I would add to the limit switch an adjustment to the
clutch as well may be needed.

on 2/11/2009 12:22 PM (ET) LouB wrote the following:
House is about 10 years old and no manual in sight.
Suggestions based on experience??

TIA

Lou

What kind of opener do you have, the track with chain or the coiled
spring type?
Does it clunk when it starts to close, during the travel somewhere, or
when it contacts th the floor?
Where does the clunk noise originate from, the motor, the track or coil,
the door itself?
Is there a visible momentary stoppage, shudder, or other unusual
movement when it clunks?


--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

Hustlin' Hank wrote:
On Feb 11, 3:22�pm, LouB wrote:

Clunk occurs as door comes down under power. �Never thought to try door
without power and will do so.

Lou-

Could be a number of causes. Garage door opener needs adjusted. Garage
door springs need adjusted........Or ( my first guess), if you live
in a freeze area, the floor may have heaved up due to freezing causing
it to "clunk" when it fully closed. You can adjust the travel limit of
your opener to compensate if it is due to freezing.

Hank

Thank goodness it is not your first guess since house is in The Villages
Florida. Thanks for the effort:-))

Lou

willshak wrote:
on 2/11/2009 12:22 PM (ET) LouB wrote the following:
House is about 10 years old and no manual in sight.
Suggestions based on experience??

TIA

Lou

What kind of opener do you have, the track with chain or the coiled
spring type?
Does it clunk when it starts to close, during the travel somewhere, or
when it contacts th the floor?
Where does the clunk noise originate from, the motor, the track or coil,
the door itself?
Is there a visible momentary stoppage, shudder, or other unusual
movement when it clunks?


It is clunking when it hits the floor which makes me think it is the
limit adjustment. Now I just need to find where it is.

Lou

LouB wrote:
willshak wrote:
on 2/11/2009 12:22 PM (ET) LouB wrote the following:
House is about 10 years old and no manual in sight.
Suggestions based on experience??

TIA

Lou

What kind of opener do you have, the track with chain or the coiled
spring type?
Does it clunk when it starts to close, during the travel somewhere, or
when it contacts th the floor?
Where does the clunk noise originate from, the motor, the track or
coil, the door itself?
Is there a visible momentary stoppage, shudder, or other unusual
movement when it clunks?


It is clunking when it hits the floor which makes me think it is the
limit adjustment. Now I just need to find where it is.

Lou
Hi,
If it does not do it when manually closed, sounds like limit switch is
out of adjustment.

On Feb 11, 3:23*pm, LouB wrote:
Your helpful comment shows how smart you are.

Your completely useless description of the problem shows the same
about you.

Tony Hwang wrote:
LouB wrote:
willshak wrote:
on 2/11/2009 12:22 PM (ET) LouB wrote the following:
House is about 10 years old and no manual in sight.
Suggestions based on experience??

TIA

Lou

What kind of opener do you have, the track with chain or the coiled
spring type?
Does it clunk when it starts to close, during the travel somewhere,
or when it contacts th the floor?
Where does the clunk noise originate from, the motor, the track or
coil, the door itself?
Is there a visible momentary stoppage, shudder, or other unusual
movement when it clunks?


It is clunking when it hits the floor which makes me think it is the
limit adjustment. Now I just need to find where it is.

Lou
Hi,
If it does not do it when manually closed, sounds like limit switch is
out of adjustment.
I am hoping that is all it is.

Lou

wrote:
On Feb 11, 3:23 pm, LouB wrote:
Your helpful comment shows how smart you are.

Your completely useless description of the problem shows the same
about you.

Aren't you completely amazed that several folks provided good hints and
suggestions??

Lou
"It takes just as much time to be nice to someone as it does to be a jerk.
So why be a jerk?" Tim Russet quoting his father Big Russ

Tony Hwang wrote:
LouB wrote:
willshak wrote:
on 2/11/2009 12:22 PM (ET) LouB wrote the following:
House is about 10 years old and no manual in sight.
Suggestions based on experience??

TIA

Lou

What kind of opener do you have, the track with chain or the coiled
spring type?
Does it clunk when it starts to close, during the travel somewhere,
or when it contacts th the floor?
Where does the clunk noise originate from, the motor, the track or
coil, the door itself?
Is there a visible momentary stoppage, shudder, or other unusual
movement when it clunks?


It is clunking when it hits the floor which makes me think it is the
limit adjustment. Now I just need to find where it is.

Lou
Hi,
If it does not do it when manually closed, sounds like limit switch is
out of adjustment.

Or the attachment point.

On Feb 12, 10:43�am, LouB wrote:

Could be a number of causes. Garage door opener needs adjusted. Garage
door springs need adjusted........Or ( my first guess), �if you live
in a freeze area, the floor may have heaved up due to freezing causing
it to "clunk" when it fully closed. You can adjust the travel limit of
your opener to compensate if it is due to freezing.

Hank

Thank goodness it is not your first guess since house is in The Villages
� �Florida. �Thanks for the effort:-))

Lou

Ok, I am probably wrong on my first guess, but, I have heard it is
getting to the freezing temps in your area of Fla. Don't discount the
possibility of heaving. Adjusting the limit switch adjustment should
solve your problem even if it isn't heaving up.

Hank ~~~~amateur guesser

HeyBub wrote:
Tony Hwang wrote:
LouB wrote:
willshak wrote:
on 2/11/2009 12:22 PM (ET) LouB wrote the following:
House is about 10 years old and no manual in sight.
Suggestions based on experience??

TIA

Lou
What kind of opener do you have, the track with chain or the coiled
spring type?
Does it clunk when it starts to close, during the travel somewhere,
or when it contacts th the floor?
Where does the clunk noise originate from, the motor, the track or
coil, the door itself?
Is there a visible momentary stoppage, shudder, or other unusual
movement when it clunks?


It is clunking when it hits the floor which makes me think it is the
limit adjustment. Now I just need to find where it is.

Lou
Hi,
If it does not do it when manually closed, sounds like limit switch is
out of adjustment.

Or the attachment point.


Large Thanks to you and Hank for the effort. Will report back when I
solve the problem. What is "the attachment point"?

Lou

Hustlin' Hank wrote:
On Feb 12, 10:43�am, LouB wrote:
Could be a number of causes. Garage door opener needs adjusted. Garage
door springs need adjusted........Or ( my first guess), �if you live
in a freeze area, the floor may have heaved up due to freezing causing
it to "clunk" when it fully closed. You can adjust the travel limit of
your opener to compensate if it is due to freezing.
Hank
Thank goodness it is not your first guess since house is in The Villages
� �Florida. �Thanks for the effort:-))

Lou

Ok, I am probably wrong on my first guess, but, I have heard it is
getting to the freezing temps in your area of Fla. Don't discount the
possibility of heaving. Adjusting the limit switch adjustment should
solve your problem even if it isn't heaving up.

Hank ~~~~amateur guesser

In Florida the ground is warm so it never really freezes. And sun is
strong too. We had those problems up north.

Thanks again for the effort.

Lou

LouB wrote:

Or the attachment point.


Large Thanks to you and Hank for the effort. Will report back when I
solve the problem. What is "the attachment point"?


It may have another name. It's where and how the door attaches to the
opening mechanism. The opener may not know the door is all the way down and
keeps pushing. Maybe you can adjust the attachment point such that the
opener stops when the door is, oh, 1/2" from the full travel. That is, the
opener has gone as far as it can go and stops, rather than stopping when it
meets resistance.

On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 13:23:05 -0800 (PST), "Hustlin' Hank"
wrote:

On Feb 12, 10:43?am, LouB wrote:

Could be a number of causes. Garage door opener needs adjusted. Garage
door springs need adjusted........Or ( my first guess), ?if you live
in a freeze area, the floor may have heaved up due to freezing causing
it to "clunk" when it fully closed. You can adjust the travel limit of
your opener to compensate if it is due to freezing.

Hank

Thank goodness it is not your first guess since house is in The Villages
? ?Florida. ?Thanks for the effort:-))

Lou

Ok, I am probably wrong on my first guess, but, I have heard it is
getting to the freezing temps in your area of Fla. Don't discount the
possibility of heaving. Adjusting the limit switch adjustment should
solve your problem even if it isn't heaving up.

Hank ~~~~amateur guesser
Limit switch adjustment would be my first step too. It's been a
problem on my door - and I'm looking at putting in magnetic reed
switch limits instead of the microswitch and cat's whisker setup
originally on my old Genie TracDrive.

On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 18:14:45 -0600, "HeyBub"
wrote:

LouB wrote:

Or the attachment point.


Large Thanks to you and Hank for the effort. Will report back when I
solve the problem. What is "the attachment point"?


It may have another name. It's where and how the door attaches to the
opening mechanism. The opener may not know the door is all the way down and
keeps pushing. Maybe you can adjust the attachment point such that the
opener stops when the door is, oh, 1/2" from the full travel. That is, the
opener has gone as far as it can go and stops, rather than stopping when it
meets resistance.

That's what limit switches do. Not load limit, but physical travel.
You can adjust a limit switch to stop an inch from the floor, 6
inches, or 1/8". Or you can set it so it tries to lift the garage or
lower the driveway - in which case the overload switch shuts it off,
or more likely reverses it. If the limit is too low it will try to
tear the drive track off the wall.

wrote:
On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 18:14:45 -0600, "HeyBub"
wrote:

LouB wrote:

Or the attachment point.


Large Thanks to you and Hank for the effort. Will report back when
I solve the problem. What is "the attachment point"?


It may have another name. It's where and how the door attaches to the
opening mechanism. The opener may not know the door is all the way
down and keeps pushing. Maybe you can adjust the attachment point
such that the opener stops when the door is, oh, 1/2" from the full
travel. That is, the opener has gone as far as it can go and stops,
rather than stopping when it meets resistance.

That's what limit switches do. Not load limit, but physical travel.
You can adjust a limit switch to stop an inch from the floor, 6
inches, or 1/8". Or you can set it so it tries to lift the garage or
lower the driveway - in which case the overload switch shuts it off,
or more likely reverses it. If the limit is too low it will try to
tear the drive track off the wall.

Ah, thanks for the clarification. My opener never fails, so I don't get down
in the weeds with it. When it starts to squeak, I glob on a layer of chicken
fat and it's good to go for another five years or so.

HeyBub wrote:
wrote:
On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 18:14:45 -0600, "HeyBub"
wrote:

LouB wrote:
Or the attachment point.


Large Thanks to you and Hank for the effort. Will report back when
I solve the problem. What is "the attachment point"?

It may have another name. It's where and how the door attaches to the
opening mechanism. The opener may not know the door is all the way
down and keeps pushing. Maybe you can adjust the attachment point
such that the opener stops when the door is, oh, 1/2" from the full
travel. That is, the opener has gone as far as it can go and stops,
rather than stopping when it meets resistance.

That's what limit switches do. Not load limit, but physical travel.
You can adjust a limit switch to stop an inch from the floor, 6
inches, or 1/8". Or you can set it so it tries to lift the garage or
lower the driveway - in which case the overload switch shuts it off,
or more likely reverses it. If the limit is too low it will try to
tear the drive track off the wall.

Ah, thanks for the clarification. My opener never fails, so I don't get down
in the weeds with it. When it starts to squeak, I glob on a layer of chicken
fat and it's good to go for another five years or so.


Thank you both:-))

Lou