I have a4 port shower valve body I am connecting CPVC (1/2") pipes to.

The shower valve is solid brass with all four ports being 1/2" F.I.P. It
also comes with four 1/2" brass nipples. So I can get four 1/2" CPVC M.I.P.
transition unions (slip CPVC x brass) and screw them directly into the
valve body. Or I can screw the 1/2" brass nipples into the four ports on
the valve body, and get four 1/2" CPVC F.I.P. transition unions and screw
them onto the other end of the nipples. Is there any advantage of doing it
one way versus the other?

I have another question regarding an outdoor shower. The pipes are being
routed on the inside "side" of the 8" exterior concrete wall. The pipe runs
up to about 72" above ground, then I drilled a hole through the 8" wall. I
know on the other end I need to secure a shower arm that is 1/2" male, but
how do I make the transition from CPVC pipe to the shower arm? If it's an
interior wall I would have studs there and will put in a brass drop ear 90
set a little back from the finished wall. But this is exterior wall, so I
think perhaps I put in a CPVC elbow then continue with the CPVC pipe through
the wall and around 3 inches from the finished exterior surface, change to a
transition union (slip CPVC x brass) F.I.P. with the brass end flush with
the finished wall? Is this the best way to do it? When I screw in the
shower arm, will it end up breaking or twisting the CPVC pipe if I turn it
too hard? Or do I need a drop ear 90 that mounts on the inside?

Thanks,

MC

MiamiCuse wrote:
....
I thought you were pouring concrete???

a) whichever you choose

b) yes (need a fixed mount at the head)

--

"dpb" wrote in message ...
MiamiCuse wrote:
...
I thought you were pouring concrete???

a) whichever you choose

b) yes (need a fixed mount at the head)

--

Yes that too, I have like 20 concurrent project in my future residence I am
working on at one time. The concrete will have to wait till next weekend.
I found a mixer I could rent at Home Depot but I am not sure I can push it
through the 30" door openings.

Right now I am doing smaller odds & ends items. It never ends.

I have a4 port shower valve body I am connecting CPVC (1/2") pipes to.
The shower valve is solid brass with all four ports being 1/2" F.I.P.
It also comes with four 1/2" brass nipples. So I can get four 1/2"
CPVC M.I.P. transition unions (slip CPVC x brass) and screw them
directly into the valve body. Or I can screw the 1/2" brass nipples
into the four ports on the valve body, and get four 1/2" CPVC F.I.P.
transition unions and screw them onto the other end of the nipples.
Is there any advantage of doing it one way versus the other?

1. Cost. Are the MIP fittings cheaper than the combined cost of the FIP
fittings and nipples?

2. Availability. Does the store have four MIP fittings in stock? If not,
the FIP might make more sense.

3. Fewer Leaks. I've never had a CPVC joint leak, but threaded fittings are
a bit more picky. The more fittings, the greater chance of a leak.

I have another question regarding an outdoor shower. The pipes are
being routed on the inside "side" of the 8" exterior concrete wall.
The pipe runs up to about 72" above ground, then I drilled a hole
through the 8" wall. I know on the other end I need to secure a
shower arm that is 1/2" male, but how do I make the transition from
CPVC pipe to the shower arm? If it's an interior wall I would have
studs there and will put in a brass drop ear 90 set a little back from
the finished wall. But this is exterior wall, so I think perhaps I
put in a CPVC elbow then continue with the CPVC pipe through the wall
and around 3 inches from the finished exterior surface, change to a
transition union (slip CPVC x brass) F.I.P. with the brass end flush
with the finished wall? Is this the best way to do it? When I screw
in the shower arm, will it end up breaking or twisting the CPVC pipe
if I turn it too hard? Or do I need a drop ear 90 that mounts on the
inside?

Could you pass through the wall, put a 90 degree elbow going up, then
attach a drop ear elbow to the outside of the wall? This obviously wouldn't
"look" as nice, but it would be secure.

Otherwise, I'd probably add some kind of bracing on the inside for a drop
ear elbow, and run a stub out through the wall to the shower arm.

Anthony

dwtaggart had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...dy-341081-.htm
:
I had a similar setup with my shower valve. At Home Depot I found some
fittings that converted from cpvc to the metal valve body. The best thing
about them was that they screwed together with a connection similar to a
water hose, so you wouldn't have to worry about twisting your cpvc if you
had it too loose when you made the initial connection.

Looks like this.
http://www.bow-group.com/Pages/popup...56 3965&ip=US



-------------------------------------
MiamiCuse wrote:


I have a4 port shower valve body I am connecting CPVC (1/2") pipes
to.

The shower valve is solid brass with all four ports being 1/2"
F.I.P. It
also comes with four 1/2" brass nipples. So I can get four
1/2" CPVC M.I.P.
transition unions (slip CPVC x brass) and screw them directly into the

valve body. Or I can screw the 1/2" brass nipples into the four
ports on
the valve body, and get four 1/2" CPVC F.I.P. transition unions
and screw
them onto the other end of the nipples. Is there any advantage of
doing it
one way versus the other?

I have another question regarding an outdoor shower. The pipes are
being
routed on the inside "side" of the 8" exterior concrete
wall. The pipe runs
up to about 72" above ground, then I drilled a hole through the
8" wall. I
know on the other end I need to secure a shower arm that is 1/2"
male, but
how do I make the transition from CPVC pipe to the shower arm? If it's
an
interior wall I would have studs there and will put in a brass drop ear
90
set a little back from the finished wall. But this is exterior wall,
so I
think perhaps I put in a CPVC elbow then continue with the CPVC pipe
through
the wall and around 3 inches from the finished exterior surface, change
to a
transition union (slip CPVC x brass) F.I.P. with the brass end flush
with
the finished wall? Is this the best way to do it? When I screw in the

shower arm, will it end up breaking or twisting the CPVC pipe if I turn
it
too hard? Or do I need a drop ear 90 that mounts on the inside?

Thanks,

MC







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