I have a double-wide trailer in Delaware and need to replace all my
rugs due to an errant dog who has now passed.

I am thinking of trying hardwood flooring or laminates, but I have to
wonder if I can do that. I am thinking that my sub-flooring might not
handle hardwood flooring. Laminates might be possible since my
understanding is that they can be installed as 'floating'. I am not
sure I really care for laminates however.

I guess what I am looking for here is any advice pertinent to my
concerns - even 'don't do it'.

Thanks

-GECKO

When you say "if the subfloor can handle it" are you referring to the
weight of real hardwood? If so, the weight will not be an issue at all--
even a very small person standing on the floor will put far more
pounds/square foot than hardwood flooring. In fact, some mobilehome
floors are not that sturdy-- kind of "springy" feeling. Real hardwood
(about 3/4" oak) would actually be better than laminate I would think.
Good luck Larry

On Oct 7, 9:00*am, gecko wrote:
I have a double-wide trailer in Delaware and need to replace all my
rugs due to an errant dog who has now passed.

I am thinking of trying hardwood flooring or laminates, but I have to
wonder if I can do that. *I am thinking that my sub-flooring might not
handle hardwood flooring. *Laminates might be possible since my
understanding is that they can be installed as 'floating'. *I am not
sure I really care for laminates however.

I guess what I am looking for here is any advice pertinent to my
concerns - even 'don't do it'.

Thanks

-GECKO

I agree, if you can afford it, and you think the investment is worth
it, go with 3/4 inch real HW it will be stronger (prefinished 3/4 inch
T&G is available too). Remember yachts have real HW floors and
doublewides can too. If not then an engineered real hardwood veneer
might save some time and money but you will have to make sure current
floor has no spongy areas. A cheap laminate will probably look right
at home in a mobile home, but then it wont set that home apart from
any neighbors (selling competitors) when you go to sell it either.
Also the gas-out on real HW is negligible, whereas on laminates and
engineered in a closed trailer you will have to vent frequently till
the formaldehide releases (remember the Katrina trailers and health
problems with those).

I saw a trucker the other day at a stop here driving one of those new
Navistar LoneStar semi's, it had a real hardwood floor in the sleeping
compartment! Wow what a beautiful truck, if you ever get a chance to
see one of those LoneStars do it, they are quite impressive.

On Oct 7, 10:00�am, gecko wrote:
I have a double-wide trailer in Delaware and need to replace all my
rugs due to an errant dog who has now passed.

I am thinking of trying hardwood flooring or laminates, but I have to
wonder if I can do that. �I am thinking that my sub-flooring might not
handle hardwood flooring. �Laminates might be possible since my
understanding is that they can be installed as 'floating'. �I am not
sure I really care for laminates however.

I guess what I am looking for here is any advice pertinent to my
concerns - even 'don't do it'.

Thanks

-GECKO

the sub floor is likely chip board and might be 1/2 inch thick or
less.

mobile homes often have springly floors, trying to nail real hardwood
to a springy surface will likely cause lots of squeaking, loose
hardwood over time etc........

On Tue, 7 Oct 2008 08:53:57 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:


the sub floor is likely chip board and might be 1/2 inch thick or
less.

mobile homes often have springly floors, trying to nail real hardwood
to a springy surface will likely cause lots of squeaking, loose
hardwood over time etc........


Thanks all

-GECKO

On Tue 07 Oct 2008 08:53:57a, told us...

On Oct 7, 10:00�am, gecko wrote:
I have a double-wide trailer in Delaware and need to replace all my
rugs due to an errant dog who has now passed.

I am thinking of trying hardwood flooring or laminates, but I have to
wonder if I can do that. �I am thinking that my sub-flooring migh
t not
handle hardwood flooring. �Laminates might be possible since my
understanding is that they can be installed as 'floating'. �I am
not
sure I really care for laminates however.

I guess what I am looking for here is any advice pertinent to my
concerns - even 'don't do it'.

Thanks

-GECKO

the sub floor is likely chip board and might be 1/2 inch thick or
less.

mobile homes often have springly floors, trying to nail real hardwood
to a springy surface will likely cause lots of squeaking, loose
hardwood over time etc........


A lot depends on the age and manufacturer of the home. We have a double
wide *manufactured home* that I would hardly consider a *mobile home*. Its
construction materials and characteristics are the same as a stick built
home. Our subfloors are 3/4" plywood. Our home is "ground set", in that
it has a stem wall foundation and steel pier support on 3 foot centers
under the entire house. Our bathrooms and kitchen have ceramic tile floors
which have no cracks in either the tiles or grout. I'm sure if I wanted to
install hardwood floors that it would not be a problem.

--
Wayne Boatwright
(correct the spelling of "geemail" to reply)

*******************************************
Date: Tuesday, 10(X)/07(VII)/08(MMVIII)
*******************************************
Countdown till Veteran's Day
4wks 6dys 12hrs 25mins
*******************************************
'Peace is rarely denied to the
peaceful.'--Johann von Schiller

"gecko" wrote in message
...
I have a double-wide trailer in Delaware and need to replace all my
rugs due to an errant dog who has now passed.

I am thinking of trying hardwood flooring or laminates, but I have to
wonder if I can do that. I am thinking that my sub-flooring might not
handle hardwood flooring. Laminates might be possible since my
understanding is that they can be installed as 'floating'. I am not
sure I really care for laminates however.

I guess what I am looking for here is any advice pertinent to my
concerns - even 'don't do it'.

Thanks

-GECKO

There are many options. When you say hardwood, do you mean the regular 3/4"
think wood that has to be finished? There are real hardwood that is
pre-finished too, but the easiest for DIY is engineered hardwood. It is a
plywood with a nice top layer and a very tough finish. A few tools and a
weekend will do a good sized area. IMO, it looks better than laminate and
installs about the same. It can go down as a floating floor, same as
laminate.

Take a cruise over to a local flooring dealer and see the array of goodies
they have. Many options in every price range.

gecko wrote:
I have a double-wide trailer in Delaware and need to replace all my
rugs due to an errant dog who has now passed.

I am thinking of trying hardwood flooring or laminates, but I have to
wonder if I can do that. I am thinking that my sub-flooring might not
handle hardwood flooring. Laminates might be possible since my
understanding is that they can be installed as 'floating'. I am not
sure I really care for laminates however.

I guess what I am looking for here is any advice pertinent to my
concerns - even 'don't do it'.

Thanks

-GECKO
How dry is it under that trailer? Most trailers I have seen aren't real
solid on the bottom, and hardwood does not cope with moisture well. Not
to mention the problems with the floors getting taller on all the doors.
I'd go with a good grade of textured vinyl and area rugs, myself.

--
aem sends...

On Tue 07 Oct 2008 04:49:42p, aemeijers told us...

gecko wrote:
I have a double-wide trailer in Delaware and need to replace all my
rugs due to an errant dog who has now passed.

I am thinking of trying hardwood flooring or laminates, but I have to
wonder if I can do that. I am thinking that my sub-flooring might not
handle hardwood flooring. Laminates might be possible since my
understanding is that they can be installed as 'floating'. I am not
sure I really care for laminates however.

I guess what I am looking for here is any advice pertinent to my
concerns - even 'don't do it'.

Thanks

-GECKO
How dry is it under that trailer? Most trailers I have seen aren't real
solid on the bottom, and hardwood does not cope with moisture well. Not
to mention the problems with the floors getting taller on all the doors.
I'd go with a good grade of textured vinyl and area rugs, myself.

--
aem sends...


Again, age, manufacturer, and method of installation of the double wide
unit are key to its construction and the various characteristics that some
folks are criticizing/evaluating without knowing all the details.

Modern manufactured homes, in this case a double-wide, often exceed the
specs used for stick built homes. They go through rigorous inspections,
are well insulated, have sturdy subflooring, and are extremely well sealed
from the underside.

Unless the OP states otherwise, I rather doubt that this qualifies as a
"trailer".

Manufactured homes, whether they are installed above grade or "ground set"
at grade, have no more moisture underneath them than a stick built home
with a crawlspace.

I think we need to hear more from the OP to accurately make any kind of
recommendation.

--
Wayne Boatwright
(correct the spelling of "geemail" to reply)

*******************************************
Date: Tuesday, 10(X)/07(VII)/08(MMVIII)
*******************************************
Countdown till Veteran's Day
4wks 6dys 6hrs 42mins
*******************************************
Beatings will continue until morale
improves.

Wayne Boatwright wrote:

On Tue 07 Oct 2008 04:49:42p, aemeijers told us...

gecko wrote:
I have a double-wide trailer in Delaware and need to replace all my
rugs due to an errant dog who has now passed.

I am thinking of trying hardwood flooring or laminates, but I have to
wonder if I can do that. I am thinking that my sub-flooring might not
handle hardwood flooring. Laminates might be possible since my
understanding is that they can be installed as 'floating'. I am not
sure I really care for laminates however.

I guess what I am looking for here is any advice pertinent to my
concerns - even 'don't do it'.

Thanks

-GECKO
How dry is it under that trailer? Most trailers I have seen aren't real
solid on the bottom, and hardwood does not cope with moisture well. Not
to mention the problems with the floors getting taller on all the doors.
I'd go with a good grade of textured vinyl and area rugs, myself.

--
aem sends...


Again, age, manufacturer, and method of installation of the double wide
unit are key to its construction and the various characteristics that some
folks are criticizing/evaluating without knowing all the details.

Modern manufactured homes, in this case a double-wide, often exceed the
specs used for stick built homes. They go through rigorous inspections,
are well insulated, have sturdy subflooring, and are extremely well sealed
from the underside.

Unless the OP states otherwise, I rather doubt that this qualifies as a
"trailer".

Manufactured homes, whether they are installed above grade or "ground set"
at grade, have no more moisture underneath them than a stick built home
with a crawlspace.

I think we need to hear more from the OP to accurately make any kind of
recommendation.


Let me quote the OP: "I have a double-wide trailer in Delaware", so
barring info to the contrary from the OP, I'm going to assume he has a
double wide trailer a.k.a. mobile home, not a manufacturered home that
is placed on a foundation.

My recommendation would be for the laminate as adding the least
thickness, and being more tolerant of dampness that hardwood,
conventional or engineered. If it's replacing carpeting, the laminate
thickness should be comperable so no door issues would be expected.

Wayne Boatwright wrote:
On Tue 07 Oct 2008 04:49:42p, aemeijers told us...

gecko wrote:
I have a double-wide trailer in Delaware and need to replace all my
rugs due to an errant dog who has now passed.

I am thinking of trying hardwood flooring or laminates, but I have to
wonder if I can do that. I am thinking that my sub-flooring might not
handle hardwood flooring. Laminates might be possible since my
understanding is that they can be installed as 'floating'. I am not
sure I really care for laminates however.

I guess what I am looking for here is any advice pertinent to my
concerns - even 'don't do it'.

Thanks

-GECKO
How dry is it under that trailer? Most trailers I have seen aren't real
solid on the bottom, and hardwood does not cope with moisture well. Not
to mention the problems with the floors getting taller on all the doors.
I'd go with a good grade of textured vinyl and area rugs, myself.

--
aem sends...


Again, age, manufacturer, and method of installation of the double wide
unit are key to its construction and the various characteristics that some
folks are criticizing/evaluating without knowing all the details.

Modern manufactured homes, in this case a double-wide, often exceed the
specs used for stick built homes. They go through rigorous inspections,
are well insulated, have sturdy subflooring, and are extremely well sealed
from the underside.

Unless the OP states otherwise, I rather doubt that this qualifies as a
"trailer".

Manufactured homes, whether they are installed above grade or "ground set"
at grade, have no more moisture underneath them than a stick built home
with a crawlspace.

I think we need to hear more from the OP to accurately make any kind of
recommendation.

OP did state otherwise- he called it a 'double-wide trailer'.

What you are describing is, around here, called a 'modular' home. I
never hear the term double-wide applied to those. Basic dividing line
seems to be, is the house designed for use in a 'manufactured home
community', or as a alternative to a stick-built house?

I'm old fashioned- if it has metal floor joists, it is a trailer,
AFAIAC. Yes, most of them are a lot better than they used to be. But by
virtue of the price point they have to make, they all compromise
somewhere. Flip side of that is, few stick-built houses are as good as
they used to be, unless you have the money and knowledge to make the
builder build it properly.

And as to the moisture underneath- unless they are on a real foundation
with proper drainage, yes, they are prone to being damp underneath.
Skirting is decorative, if it only goes down to ground level. Most crawl
spaces I have seen are damp, too, since almost nobody bothers to address
drainage in those either. I'm lucky- on this half-ass addition I am
sitting in as I type this, at least they did the crawl right- deep and
dry, with correct grading on the outside. More like a 3 1/2 foot tall
basement with a dirt floor. Sure wish they would have spent the extra
few thousand to make a real basement attached to the original basement,
though.

--
aem sends...

On Tue 07 Oct 2008 05:40:12p, Pete C. told us...


Wayne Boatwright wrote:

On Tue 07 Oct 2008 04:49:42p, aemeijers told us...

gecko wrote:
I have a double-wide trailer in Delaware and need to replace all my
rugs due to an errant dog who has now passed.

I am thinking of trying hardwood flooring or laminates, but I have to
wonder if I can do that. I am thinking that my sub-flooring might
not
handle hardwood flooring. Laminates might be possible since my
understanding is that they can be installed as 'floating'. I am not
sure I really care for laminates however.

I guess what I am looking for here is any advice pertinent to my
concerns - even 'don't do it'.

Thanks

-GECKO
How dry is it under that trailer? Most trailers I have seen aren't
real
solid on the bottom, and hardwood does not cope with moisture well.
Not
to mention the problems with the floors getting taller on all the
doors.
I'd go with a good grade of textured vinyl and area rugs, myself.

--
aem sends...


Again, age, manufacturer, and method of installation of the double wide
unit are key to its construction and the various characteristics that
some
folks are criticizing/evaluating without knowing all the details.

Modern manufactured homes, in this case a double-wide, often exceed the
specs used for stick built homes. They go through rigorous inspections,
are well insulated, have sturdy subflooring, and are extremely well
sealed
from the underside.

Unless the OP states otherwise, I rather doubt that this qualifies as a
"trailer".

Manufactured homes, whether they are installed above grade or "ground
set"
at grade, have no more moisture underneath them than a stick built home
with a crawlspace.

I think we need to hear more from the OP to accurately make any kind of
recommendation.


Let me quote the OP: "I have a double-wide trailer in Delaware", so
barring info to the contrary from the OP, I'm going to assume he has a
double wide trailer a.k.a. mobile home, not a manufacturered home that
is placed on a foundation.

Sorry, Pete, I did miss that first line. Still, in some places people
refer to manufactured homes as "trailers", since they units are brought in
on wheels.

My recommendation would be for the laminate as adding the least
thickness, and being more tolerant of dampness that hardwood,
conventional or engineered. If it's replacing carpeting, the laminate
thickness should be comperable so no door issues would be expected.

Personally, I really detest all of the lainate floors I've seen. All I can
think of is *plastic* and *fake*. Unless, of course, it is a laminate with
an actual wood surface. I would also not like having vinyl flooring
installed throughly my home. If it were mine I would re-carpet, since the
source of ruining the present carpetis no longer there.

--
Wayne Boatwright
(correct the spelling of "geemail" to reply)

*******************************************
Date: Tuesday, 10(X)/07(VII)/08(MMVIII)
*******************************************
Countdown till Veteran's Day
4wks 6dys 6hrs 2mins
*******************************************
Rebooting your brain can be tricky.
*******************************************

On Tue 07 Oct 2008 05:53:55p, aemeijers told us...

Wayne Boatwright wrote:
On Tue 07 Oct 2008 04:49:42p, aemeijers told us...

gecko wrote:
I have a double-wide trailer in Delaware and need to replace all my
rugs due to an errant dog who has now passed.

I am thinking of trying hardwood flooring or laminates, but I have to
wonder if I can do that. I am thinking that my sub-flooring might
not handle hardwood flooring. Laminates might be possible since my
understanding is that they can be installed as 'floating'. I am not
sure I really care for laminates however.

I guess what I am looking for here is any advice pertinent to my
concerns - even 'don't do it'.

Thanks

-GECKO
How dry is it under that trailer? Most trailers I have seen aren't
real solid on the bottom, and hardwood does not cope with moisture
well. Not to mention the problems with the floors getting taller on
all the doors. I'd go with a good grade of textured vinyl and area
rugs, myself.

--
aem sends...


Again, age, manufacturer, and method of installation of the double wide
unit are key to its construction and the various characteristics that
some folks are criticizing/evaluating without knowing all the details.

Modern manufactured homes, in this case a double-wide, often exceed the
specs used for stick built homes. They go through rigorous
inspections, are well insulated, have sturdy subflooring, and are
extremely well sealed from the underside.

Unless the OP states otherwise, I rather doubt that this qualifies as a
"trailer".

Manufactured homes, whether they are installed above grade or "ground
set" at grade, have no more moisture underneath them than a stick built
home with a crawlspace.

I think we need to hear more from the OP to accurately make any kind of
recommendation.

OP did state otherwise- he called it a 'double-wide trailer'.

I'm sorry, but I actually did miss that statement. Still, in some areas,
manufactured homes are referred to as trailers, since their method of
arrival is on a removable wheelbase.

What you are describing is, around here, called a 'modular' home. I
never hear the term double-wide applied to those. Basic dividing line
seems to be, is the house designed for use in a 'manufactured home
community', or as a alternative to a stick-built house?

In our area, "modular" refers to a home built from various multiple units
that end up joined together, often with as little as an individual room
being a module. Manufactured homes cover everything else, except those
that are true "trailers".

I'm old fashioned- if it has metal floor joists, it is a trailer,
AFAIAC. Yes, most of them are a lot better than they used to be. But by
virtue of the price point they have to make, they all compromise
somewhere. Flip side of that is, few stick-built houses are as good as
they used to be, unless you have the money and knowledge to make the
builder build it properly.

Our manufactured home has 2 x 6 wooden floor and wall joists. All of our
joists, including ceiling, are 16" on center. We have 3/4" plywood
subflooring and 5/8" thick drywall, along with better insulation than we
had in our stick built house that was built in 2000. I do not consider it
a trailer by any means. It arrived in two segments which were then joined
down the middle line. There are also triple and quad wides that are
similarly assembled, and may be as large as 3600 sq. ft. Their
construction is quite substantial.

And as to the moisture underneath- unless they are on a real foundation
with proper drainage, yes, they are prone to being damp underneath.
Skirting is decorative, if it only goes down to ground level. Most crawl
spaces I have seen are damp, too, since almost nobody bothers to address
drainage in those either. I'm lucky- on this half-ass addition I am
sitting in as I type this, at least they did the crawl right- deep and
dry, with correct grading on the outside. More like a 3 1/2 foot tall
basement with a dirt floor. Sure wish they would have spent the extra
few thousand to make a real basement attached to the original basement,
though.

We have an approximately 3 1/2 foot tall crawlspace below the house, with
concrete block and pour concrete stem walls. It has a dirt floor, but
there is a central drain which flows to our septic tank.

One advantage we also have is that we live in the desert, so moisture is
seldom something one needs to consider, with or without a drain.


--
Wayne Boatwright
(correct the spelling of "geemail" to reply)

*******************************************
Date: Tuesday, 10(X)/07(VII)/08(MMVIII)
*******************************************
Countdown till Veteran's Day
4wks 6dys 5hrs 55mins
*******************************************
Did I mention Berle always hated
Yakko, Oh...enuf said

Wayne Boatwright wrote:

On Tue 07 Oct 2008 05:40:12p, Pete C. told us...


Wayne Boatwright wrote:

On Tue 07 Oct 2008 04:49:42p, aemeijers told us...

gecko wrote:
I have a double-wide trailer in Delaware and need to replace all my
rugs due to an errant dog who has now passed.

I am thinking of trying hardwood flooring or laminates, but I have to
wonder if I can do that. I am thinking that my sub-flooring might
not
handle hardwood flooring. Laminates might be possible since my
understanding is that they can be installed as 'floating'. I am not
sure I really care for laminates however.

I guess what I am looking for here is any advice pertinent to my
concerns - even 'don't do it'.

Thanks

-GECKO
How dry is it under that trailer? Most trailers I have seen aren't
real
solid on the bottom, and hardwood does not cope with moisture well.
Not
to mention the problems with the floors getting taller on all the
doors.
I'd go with a good grade of textured vinyl and area rugs, myself.

--
aem sends...


Again, age, manufacturer, and method of installation of the double wide
unit are key to its construction and the various characteristics that
some
folks are criticizing/evaluating without knowing all the details.

Modern manufactured homes, in this case a double-wide, often exceed the
specs used for stick built homes. They go through rigorous inspections,
are well insulated, have sturdy subflooring, and are extremely well
sealed
from the underside.

Unless the OP states otherwise, I rather doubt that this qualifies as a
"trailer".

Manufactured homes, whether they are installed above grade or "ground
set"
at grade, have no more moisture underneath them than a stick built home
with a crawlspace.

I think we need to hear more from the OP to accurately make any kind of
recommendation.


Let me quote the OP: "I have a double-wide trailer in Delaware", so
barring info to the contrary from the OP, I'm going to assume he has a
double wide trailer a.k.a. mobile home, not a manufacturered home that
is placed on a foundation.

Sorry, Pete, I did miss that first line. Still, in some places people
refer to manufactured homes as "trailers", since they units are brought in
on wheels.

Yes, there tends to be a lot of confusion between the mobile homes,
manufactured homes, modular homes, panelized homes, and the variants in
between. Manufactured housing these days covers quite a range from
standard low end, to fully custom high end.


My recommendation would be for the laminate as adding the least
thickness, and being more tolerant of dampness that hardwood,
conventional or engineered. If it's replacing carpeting, the laminate
thickness should be comperable so no door issues would be expected.

Personally, I really detest all of the lainate floors I've seen. All I can
think of is *plastic* and *fake*. Unless, of course, it is a laminate with
an actual wood surface. I would also not like having vinyl flooring
installed throughly my home. If it were mine I would re-carpet, since the
source of ruining the present carpetis no longer there.

Personally I think a combination of flooring would be in order, even in
a relatively small home. Carpet is appropriate for some areas, vinyl for
others and wood or laminate in still others. For a mobile home with
typically mediocre insulation underneath, carpet may have an advantage
in comfort for bare feet.

On Tue 07 Oct 2008 06:32:21p, Pete C. told us...


Wayne Boatwright wrote:

On Tue 07 Oct 2008 05:40:12p, Pete C. told us...


Wayne Boatwright wrote:

On Tue 07 Oct 2008 04:49:42p, aemeijers told us...

gecko wrote:
I have a double-wide trailer in Delaware and need to replace all
my rugs due to an errant dog who has now passed.

I am thinking of trying hardwood flooring or laminates, but I
have to wonder if I can do that. I am thinking that my
sub-flooring might
not
handle hardwood flooring. Laminates might be possible since my
understanding is that they can be installed as 'floating'. I am
not sure I really care for laminates however.

I guess what I am looking for here is any advice pertinent to my
concerns - even 'don't do it'.

Thanks

-GECKO
How dry is it under that trailer? Most trailers I have seen aren't
real
solid on the bottom, and hardwood does not cope with moisture
well.
Not
to mention the problems with the floors getting taller on all the
doors.
I'd go with a good grade of textured vinyl and area rugs, myself.

--
aem sends...


Again, age, manufacturer, and method of installation of the double
wide unit are key to its construction and the various
characteristics that
some
folks are criticizing/evaluating without knowing all the details.

Modern manufactured homes, in this case a double-wide, often exceed
the specs used for stick built homes. They go through rigorous
inspections, are well insulated, have sturdy subflooring, and are
extremely well
sealed
from the underside.

Unless the OP states otherwise, I rather doubt that this qualifies
as a "trailer".

Manufactured homes, whether they are installed above grade or
"ground
set"
at grade, have no more moisture underneath them than a stick built
home with a crawlspace.

I think we need to hear more from the OP to accurately make any kind
of recommendation.


Let me quote the OP: "I have a double-wide trailer in Delaware", so
barring info to the contrary from the OP, I'm going to assume he has
a double wide trailer a.k.a. mobile home, not a manufacturered home
that is placed on a foundation.

Sorry, Pete, I did miss that first line. Still, in some places people
refer to manufactured homes as "trailers", since they units are brought
in on wheels.

Yes, there tends to be a lot of confusion between the mobile homes,
manufactured homes, modular homes, panelized homes, and the variants in
between. Manufactured housing these days covers quite a range from
standard low end, to fully custom high end.


My recommendation would be for the laminate as adding the least
thickness, and being more tolerant of dampness that hardwood,
conventional or engineered. If it's replacing carpeting, the laminate
thickness should be comperable so no door issues would be expected.

Personally, I really detest all of the lainate floors I've seen. All I
can think of is *plastic* and *fake*. Unless, of course, it is a
laminate with an actual wood surface. I would also not like having
vinyl flooring installed throughly my home. If it were mine I would
re-carpet, since the source of ruining the present carpetis no longer
there.

Personally I think a combination of flooring would be in order, even in
a relatively small home. Carpet is appropriate for some areas, vinyl for
others and wood or laminate in still others. For a mobile home with
typically mediocre insulation underneath, carpet may have an advantage
in comfort for bare feet.

Yes, I agree. Vinyl or tile in kitchen and baths and tile in foyer. I do
like a nice cozy carpet underfoot even though we don't have an insulation
problem. We could have opted for real hardwood flooring when we made our
selections, but we didn't want to invest that much money in the majority of
the flooring. We have sautillo tile in the kitchen and adjoining den,
carpet through the bedrooms, livingroom and diningroom, and limestone in
the foyer.

--
Wayne Boatwright
(correct the spelling of "geemail" to reply)

*******************************************
Date: Tuesday, 10(X)/07(VII)/08(MMVIII)
*******************************************
Countdown till Veteran's Day
4wks 6dys 5hrs 18mins
*******************************************
Everyone is gifted. Some open the
package sooner.

On Tue, 07 Oct 2008 20:32:21 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Wayne Boatwright wrote:

On Tue 07 Oct 2008 05:40:12p, Pete C. told us...


Wayne Boatwright wrote:

On Tue 07 Oct 2008 04:49:42p, aemeijers told us...


How dry is it under that trailer? Most trailers I have seen aren't
real
solid on the bottom, and hardwood does not cope with moisture well.
Not
to mention the problems with the floors getting taller on all the
doors.
I'd go with a good grade of textured vinyl and area rugs, myself.

--
aem sends...


Again, age, manufacturer, and method of installation of the double wide
unit are key to its construction and the various characteristics that
some
folks are criticizing/evaluating without knowing all the details.

Modern manufactured homes, in this case a double-wide, often exceed the
specs used for stick built homes. They go through rigorous inspections,
are well insulated, have sturdy subflooring, and are extremely well
sealed
from the underside.

Unless the OP states otherwise, I rather doubt that this qualifies as a
"trailer".

Manufactured homes, whether they are installed above grade or "ground
set"
at grade, have no more moisture underneath them than a stick built home
with a crawlspace.

I think we need to hear more from the OP to accurately make any kind of
recommendation.


Let me quote the OP: "I have a double-wide trailer in Delaware", so
barring info to the contrary from the OP, I'm going to assume he has a
double wide trailer a.k.a. mobile home, not a manufacturered home that
is placed on a foundation.

No - my double-wide is not on a normal foundation. Just a
concrete-block wall placed around the perimeter which provides no
supports whatsoever for the trailer itself. The latter is supported
by 'piers'.

My underlying ground is always dry, so I don't have a moisture problem
- although I have to say, I am close to the ocean and probably get
some moisture from that.

As a double-wide, it is on steel framing underneath. I don't know how
thick the sub flooring is, but I think it is press-wood (?spelling?).

I am interested in hard-wood because laminates do not turn me on.
I have dog-soiled rugs now, but they all show and retain depressions
from furniture and furniture legs. Rug dealers say I can't avoid
that.

Thanks
-GECKO

Sorry, Pete, I did miss that first line. Still, in some places people
refer to manufactured homes as "trailers", since they units are brought in
on wheels.

Yes, there tends to be a lot of confusion between the mobile homes,
manufactured homes, modular homes, panelized homes, and the variants in
between. Manufactured housing these days covers quite a range from
standard low end, to fully custom high end.


My recommendation would be for the laminate as adding the least
thickness, and being more tolerant of dampness that hardwood,
conventional or engineered. If it's replacing carpeting, the laminate
thickness should be comperable so no door issues would be expected.

Personally, I really detest all of the lainate floors I've seen. All I can
think of is *plastic* and *fake*. Unless, of course, it is a laminate with
an actual wood surface. I would also not like having vinyl flooring
installed throughly my home. If it were mine I would re-carpet, since the
source of ruining the present carpetis no longer there.

Personally I think a combination of flooring would be in order, even in
a relatively small home. Carpet is appropriate for some areas, vinyl for
others and wood or laminate in still others. For a mobile home with
typically mediocre insulation underneath, carpet may have an advantage
in comfort for bare feet.

gecko wrote:

On Tue, 07 Oct 2008 20:32:21 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Wayne Boatwright wrote:

On Tue 07 Oct 2008 05:40:12p, Pete C. told us...


Wayne Boatwright wrote:

On Tue 07 Oct 2008 04:49:42p, aemeijers told us...


How dry is it under that trailer? Most trailers I have seen aren't
real
solid on the bottom, and hardwood does not cope with moisture well.
Not
to mention the problems with the floors getting taller on all the
doors.
I'd go with a good grade of textured vinyl and area rugs, myself.

--
aem sends...


Again, age, manufacturer, and method of installation of the double wide
unit are key to its construction and the various characteristics that
some
folks are criticizing/evaluating without knowing all the details.

Modern manufactured homes, in this case a double-wide, often exceed the
specs used for stick built homes. They go through rigorous inspections,
are well insulated, have sturdy subflooring, and are extremely well
sealed
from the underside.

Unless the OP states otherwise, I rather doubt that this qualifies as a
"trailer".

Manufactured homes, whether they are installed above grade or "ground
set"
at grade, have no more moisture underneath them than a stick built home
with a crawlspace.

I think we need to hear more from the OP to accurately make any kind of
recommendation.


Let me quote the OP: "I have a double-wide trailer in Delaware", so
barring info to the contrary from the OP, I'm going to assume he has a
double wide trailer a.k.a. mobile home, not a manufacturered home that
is placed on a foundation.

No - my double-wide is not on a normal foundation. Just a
concrete-block wall placed around the perimeter which provides no
supports whatsoever for the trailer itself. The latter is supported
by 'piers'.

If it's on piers, it may not be considered a trailer / mobile home.
Pier-beam type manufactured housing is a bit different and generally at
least a step up from a mobile home.


My underlying ground is always dry, so I don't have a moisture problem
- although I have to say, I am close to the ocean and probably get
some moisture from that.

As a double-wide, it is on steel framing underneath. I don't know how
thick the sub flooring is, but I think it is press-wood (?spelling?).

If it's a pier-beam and not a trailer / mobile home, the sub flooring is
probably decent. You should be able to inspect in the area of a plumbing
drain to see what the sub floor structure is.


I am interested in hard-wood because laminates do not turn me on.
I have dog-soiled rugs now, but they all show and retain depressions
from furniture and furniture legs. Rug dealers say I can't avoid
that.

Check the carpet and padding thickness to determine the space you have
before you start to have door issues. If it's high enough you can do the
full 3/4" hardwood (pref. the pre finished variety), if it's lower, the
engineered hardwood is a good choice since it's essentially the same
substrate as laminate, with a real hardwood veneer as the top layer.
Lumber Liquidators is a decent source for a lot of flooring.

On Wed, 08 Oct 2008 14:25:41 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


gecko wrote:

On Tue, 07 Oct 2008 20:32:21 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Wayne Boatwright wrote:

On Tue 07 Oct 2008 05:40:12p, Pete C. told us...


Wayne Boatwright wrote:

On Tue 07 Oct 2008 04:49:42p, aemeijers told us...


How dry is it under that trailer? Most trailers I have seen aren't
real
solid on the bottom, and hardwood does not cope with moisture well.
Not
to mention the problems with the floors getting taller on all the
doors.
I'd go with a good grade of textured vinyl and area rugs, myself.

--
aem sends...


Again, age, manufacturer, and method of installation of the double wide
unit are key to its construction and the various characteristics that
some
folks are criticizing/evaluating without knowing all the details.

Modern manufactured homes, in this case a double-wide, often exceed the
specs used for stick built homes. They go through rigorous inspections,
are well insulated, have sturdy subflooring, and are extremely well
sealed
from the underside.

Unless the OP states otherwise, I rather doubt that this qualifies as a
"trailer".

Manufactured homes, whether they are installed above grade or "ground
set"
at grade, have no more moisture underneath them than a stick built home
with a crawlspace.

I think we need to hear more from the OP to accurately make any kind of
recommendation.


Let me quote the OP: "I have a double-wide trailer in Delaware", so
barring info to the contrary from the OP, I'm going to assume he has a
double wide trailer a.k.a. mobile home, not a manufacturered home that
is placed on a foundation.

No - my double-wide is not on a normal foundation. Just a
concrete-block wall placed around the perimeter which provides no
supports whatsoever for the trailer itself. The latter is supported
by 'piers'.

If it's on piers, it may not be considered a trailer / mobile home.
Pier-beam type manufactured housing is a bit different and generally at
least a step up from a mobile home.


'Pier beam' is my wording. I may be using the wrong descriptor. I
have several concrete-block 'towers' or 'columns' supporting the metal
framework of my double wide which is about 30" above the ground.



My underlying ground is always dry, so I don't have a moisture problem
- although I have to say, I am close to the ocean and probably get
some moisture from that.

As a double-wide, it is on steel framing underneath. I don't know how
thick the sub flooring is, but I think it is press-wood (?spelling?).

If it's a pier-beam and not a trailer / mobile home, the sub flooring is
probably decent. You should be able to inspect in the area of a plumbing
drain to see what the sub floor structure is.


I am interested in hard-wood because laminates do not turn me on.
I have dog-soiled rugs now, but they all show and retain depressions
from furniture and furniture legs. Rug dealers say I can't avoid
that.

Check the carpet and padding thickness to determine the space you have
before you start to have door issues. If it's high enough you can do the
full 3/4" hardwood (pref. the pre finished variety), if it's lower, the
engineered hardwood is a good choice since it's essentially the same
substrate as laminate, with a real hardwood veneer as the top layer.
Lumber Liquidators is a decent source for a lot of flooring.

I checked and I think my interior doors will all clear 3/4" flooring.
Especially without a rug to clear.

I have heard of Lumber Liquidators. Of course installing such
flooring may be beyond my capability. I certainly have no tools to do
that (such as a nail gun).

Thanks
-GECKO

On Wed 08 Oct 2008 11:52:02a, gecko told us...

No - my double-wide is not on a normal foundation. Just a
concrete-block wall placed around the perimeter which provides no
supports whatsoever for the trailer itself. The latter is supported
by 'piers'.

My underlying ground is always dry, so I don't have a moisture problem
- although I have to say, I am close to the ocean and probably get
some moisture from that.

As a double-wide, it is on steel framing underneath. I don't know how
thick the sub flooring is, but I think it is press-wood (?spelling?).

I am interested in hard-wood because laminates do not turn me on.
I have dog-soiled rugs now, but they all show and retain depressions
from furniture and furniture legs. Rug dealers say I can't avoid
that.

Thanks
-GECKO


Actually, if it were mine, I would still pursue real hardwood flooring. It
would add stability to your existing subfloor. There are some laminates,
howeer, that have a thinner top layer of real wood.

--
Wayne Boatwright
(correct the spelling of "geemail" to reply)

*******************************************
Date: Wednesday, 10(X)/08(VIII)/08(MMVIII)
*******************************************
Countdown till Veteran's Day
4wks 5dys 10hrs 13mins
*******************************************
The world is full of sane people
taking medicine to enable them to cope

On Wed 08 Oct 2008 12:25:41p, Pete C. told us...


gecko wrote:

On Tue, 07 Oct 2008 20:32:21 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Wayne Boatwright wrote:

On Tue 07 Oct 2008 05:40:12p, Pete C. told us...


Wayne Boatwright wrote:

On Tue 07 Oct 2008 04:49:42p, aemeijers told us...


How dry is it under that trailer? Most trailers I have seen
aren't
real
solid on the bottom, and hardwood does not cope with moisture
well.
Not
to mention the problems with the floors getting taller on all
the
doors.
I'd go with a good grade of textured vinyl and area rugs,
myself.

--
aem sends...


Again, age, manufacturer, and method of installation of the
double wide unit are key to its construction and the various
characteristics that
some
folks are criticizing/evaluating without knowing all the details.

Modern manufactured homes, in this case a double-wide, often
exceed the specs used for stick built homes. They go through
rigorous inspections, are well insulated, have sturdy
subflooring, and are extremely well
sealed
from the underside.

Unless the OP states otherwise, I rather doubt that this
qualifies as a "trailer".

Manufactured homes, whether they are installed above grade or
"ground
set"
at grade, have no more moisture underneath them than a stick
built home with a crawlspace.

I think we need to hear more from the OP to accurately make any
kind of recommendation.


Let me quote the OP: "I have a double-wide trailer in Delaware",
so barring info to the contrary from the OP, I'm going to assume
he has a double wide trailer a.k.a. mobile home, not a
manufacturered home that is placed on a foundation.

No - my double-wide is not on a normal foundation. Just a
concrete-block wall placed around the perimeter which provides no
supports whatsoever for the trailer itself. The latter is supported
by 'piers'.

If it's on piers, it may not be considered a trailer / mobile home.
Pier-beam type manufactured housing is a bit different and generally at
least a step up from a mobile home.


My underlying ground is always dry, so I don't have a moisture problem
- although I have to say, I am close to the ocean and probably get
some moisture from that.

As a double-wide, it is on steel framing underneath. I don't know how
thick the sub flooring is, but I think it is press-wood (?spelling?).

If it's a pier-beam and not a trailer / mobile home, the sub flooring is
probably decent. You should be able to inspect in the area of a plumbing
drain to see what the sub floor structure is.

Right, pier support is definitely adequate.

I am interested in hard-wood because laminates do not turn me on.
I have dog-soiled rugs now, but they all show and retain depressions
from furniture and furniture legs. Rug dealers say I can't avoid
that.

Check the carpet and padding thickness to determine the space you have
before you start to have door issues. If it's high enough you can do the
full 3/4" hardwood (pref. the pre finished variety), if it's lower, the
engineered hardwood is a good choice since it's essentially the same
substrate as laminate, with a real hardwood veneer as the top layer.
Lumber Liquidators is a decent source for a lot of flooring.


Good options.

--
Wayne Boatwright
(correct the spelling of "geemail" to reply)

*******************************************
Date: Wednesday, 10(X)/08(VIII)/08(MMVIII)
*******************************************
Countdown till Veteran's Day
4wks 5dys 10hrs 10mins
*******************************************
'Dabbling in a bit of ironic
foreshadowing, are we?' -Milo

On Wed 08 Oct 2008 01:16:00p, gecko told us...

On Wed, 08 Oct 2008 14:25:41 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


gecko wrote:

On Tue, 07 Oct 2008 20:32:21 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Wayne Boatwright wrote:

On Tue 07 Oct 2008 05:40:12p, Pete C. told us...


Wayne Boatwright wrote:

On Tue 07 Oct 2008 04:49:42p, aemeijers told us...


How dry is it under that trailer? Most trailers I have seen
aren't
real
solid on the bottom, and hardwood does not cope with moisture
well.
Not
to mention the problems with the floors getting taller on all
the
doors.
I'd go with a good grade of textured vinyl and area rugs,
myself.

--
aem sends...


Again, age, manufacturer, and method of installation of the
double wide unit are key to its construction and the various
characteristics that
some
folks are criticizing/evaluating without knowing all the
details.

Modern manufactured homes, in this case a double-wide, often
exceed the specs used for stick built homes. They go through
rigorous inspections, are well insulated, have sturdy
subflooring, and are extremely well
sealed
from the underside.

Unless the OP states otherwise, I rather doubt that this
qualifies as a "trailer".

Manufactured homes, whether they are installed above grade or
"ground
set"
at grade, have no more moisture underneath them than a stick
built home with a crawlspace.

I think we need to hear more from the OP to accurately make any
kind of recommendation.


Let me quote the OP: "I have a double-wide trailer in Delaware",
so barring info to the contrary from the OP, I'm going to assume
he has a double wide trailer a.k.a. mobile home, not a
manufacturered home that is placed on a foundation.

No - my double-wide is not on a normal foundation. Just a
concrete-block wall placed around the perimeter which provides no
supports whatsoever for the trailer itself. The latter is supported
by 'piers'.

If it's on piers, it may not be considered a trailer / mobile home.
Pier-beam type manufactured housing is a bit different and generally at
least a step up from a mobile home.


'Pier beam' is my wording. I may be using the wrong descriptor. I
have several concrete-block 'towers' or 'columns' supporting the metal
framework of my double wide which is about 30" above the ground.



My underlying ground is always dry, so I don't have a moisture problem
- although I have to say, I am close to the ocean and probably get
some moisture from that.

As a double-wide, it is on steel framing underneath. I don't know how
thick the sub flooring is, but I think it is press-wood (?spelling?).

If it's a pier-beam and not a trailer / mobile home, the sub flooring is
probably decent. You should be able to inspect in the area of a plumbing
drain to see what the sub floor structure is.


I am interested in hard-wood because laminates do not turn me on.
I have dog-soiled rugs now, but they all show and retain depressions
from furniture and furniture legs. Rug dealers say I can't avoid
that.

Check the carpet and padding thickness to determine the space you have
before you start to have door issues. If it's high enough you can do the
full 3/4" hardwood (pref. the pre finished variety), if it's lower, the
engineered hardwood is a good choice since it's essentially the same
substrate as laminate, with a real hardwood veneer as the top layer.
Lumber Liquidators is a decent source for a lot of flooring.

I checked and I think my interior doors will all clear 3/4" flooring.
Especially without a rug to clear.

I have heard of Lumber Liquidators. Of course installing such
flooring may be beyond my capability. I certainly have no tools to do
that (such as a nail gun).

Thanks
-GECKO


You can rent the special nailer that's used for flooring. My personal
concern would be more about cutting and fitting and nailing. But, of
course, you can rent a power mitre saw, too. I wouldn't shy away from it
from lack of experience. Just take your time.

--
Wayne Boatwright
(correct the spelling of "geemail" to reply)

*******************************************
Date: Wednesday, 10(X)/08(VIII)/08(MMVIII)
*******************************************
Countdown till Veteran's Day
4wks 5dys 10hrs 9mins
*******************************************
A committee has 6 or more legs and no
brain.

On Wed, 08 Oct 2008 20:53:08 GMT, Wayne Boatwright
wrote:


You can rent the special nailer that's used for flooring. My personal
concern would be more about cutting and fitting and nailing. But, of
course, you can rent a power mitre saw, too. I wouldn't shy away from it
from lack of experience. Just take your time.

Actually, I already have a power mitre saw. Not a nailer though.
-GECKO

gecko wrote:

On Wed, 08 Oct 2008 20:53:08 GMT, Wayne Boatwright
wrote:

You can rent the special nailer that's used for flooring. My personal
concern would be more about cutting and fitting and nailing. But, of
course, you can rent a power mitre saw, too. I wouldn't shy away from it
from lack of experience. Just take your time.

Actually, I already have a power mitre saw. Not a nailer though.
-GECKO

Well, if you go with the laminate or the engineered hardwood, the saw is
all you'll need for the install.

On Wed 08 Oct 2008 03:36:07p, Pete C. told us...


gecko wrote:

On Wed, 08 Oct 2008 20:53:08 GMT, Wayne Boatwright
wrote:

You can rent the special nailer that's used for flooring. My personal
concern would be more about cutting and fitting and nailing. But, of
course, you can rent a power mitre saw, too. I wouldn't shy away from
it
from lack of experience. Just take your time.

Actually, I already have a power mitre saw. Not a nailer though.
-GECKO

Well, if you go with the laminate or the engineered hardwood, the saw is
all you'll need for the install.


True...

--
Wayne Boatwright
(correct the spelling of "geemail" to reply)

*******************************************
Date: Wednesday, 10(X)/08(VIII)/08(MMVIII)
*******************************************
Countdown till Veteran's Day
4wks 5dys 5hrs 3mins
*******************************************
I'm no stranger, just a friend you
haven't met...

On Wed 08 Oct 2008 03:15:41p, gecko told us...

On Wed, 08 Oct 2008 20:53:08 GMT, Wayne Boatwright
wrote:


You can rent the special nailer that's used for flooring. My personal
concern would be more about cutting and fitting and nailing. But, of
course, you can rent a power mitre saw, too. I wouldn't shy away from it
from lack of experience. Just take your time.

Actually, I already have a power mitre saw. Not a nailer though.
-GECKO

Well, whichever way you decide to go, I wish you good luck. Oh, and do
report back.

--
Wayne Boatwright
(correct the spelling of "geemail" to reply)

*******************************************
Date: Wednesday, 10(X)/08(VIII)/08(MMVIII)
*******************************************
Countdown till Veteran's Day
4wks 5dys 5hrs 3mins
*******************************************
I'm no stranger, just a friend you
haven't met...