On Wed 08 Oct 2008 01:16:00p, gecko told us...

On Wed, 08 Oct 2008 14:25:41 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


gecko wrote:

On Tue, 07 Oct 2008 20:32:21 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Wayne Boatwright wrote:

On Tue 07 Oct 2008 05:40:12p, Pete C. told us...


Wayne Boatwright wrote:

On Tue 07 Oct 2008 04:49:42p, aemeijers told us...


How dry is it under that trailer? Most trailers I have seen
aren't
real
solid on the bottom, and hardwood does not cope with moisture
well.
Not
to mention the problems with the floors getting taller on all
the
doors.
I'd go with a good grade of textured vinyl and area rugs,
myself.

--
aem sends...


Again, age, manufacturer, and method of installation of the
double wide unit are key to its construction and the various
characteristics that
some
folks are criticizing/evaluating without knowing all the
details.

Modern manufactured homes, in this case a double-wide, often
exceed the specs used for stick built homes. They go through
rigorous inspections, are well insulated, have sturdy
subflooring, and are extremely well
sealed
from the underside.

Unless the OP states otherwise, I rather doubt that this
qualifies as a "trailer".

Manufactured homes, whether they are installed above grade or
"ground
set"
at grade, have no more moisture underneath them than a stick
built home with a crawlspace.

I think we need to hear more from the OP to accurately make any
kind of recommendation.


Let me quote the OP: "I have a double-wide trailer in Delaware",
so barring info to the contrary from the OP, I'm going to assume
he has a double wide trailer a.k.a. mobile home, not a
manufacturered home that is placed on a foundation.

No - my double-wide is not on a normal foundation. Just a
concrete-block wall placed around the perimeter which provides no
supports whatsoever for the trailer itself. The latter is supported
by 'piers'.

If it's on piers, it may not be considered a trailer / mobile home.
Pier-beam type manufactured housing is a bit different and generally at
least a step up from a mobile home.


'Pier beam' is my wording. I may be using the wrong descriptor. I
have several concrete-block 'towers' or 'columns' supporting the metal
framework of my double wide which is about 30" above the ground.



My underlying ground is always dry, so I don't have a moisture problem
- although I have to say, I am close to the ocean and probably get
some moisture from that.

As a double-wide, it is on steel framing underneath. I don't know how
thick the sub flooring is, but I think it is press-wood (?spelling?).

If it's a pier-beam and not a trailer / mobile home, the sub flooring is
probably decent. You should be able to inspect in the area of a plumbing
drain to see what the sub floor structure is.


I am interested in hard-wood because laminates do not turn me on.
I have dog-soiled rugs now, but they all show and retain depressions
from furniture and furniture legs. Rug dealers say I can't avoid
that.

Check the carpet and padding thickness to determine the space you have
before you start to have door issues. If it's high enough you can do the
full 3/4" hardwood (pref. the pre finished variety), if it's lower, the
engineered hardwood is a good choice since it's essentially the same
substrate as laminate, with a real hardwood veneer as the top layer.
Lumber Liquidators is a decent source for a lot of flooring.

I checked and I think my interior doors will all clear 3/4" flooring.
Especially without a rug to clear.

I have heard of Lumber Liquidators. Of course installing such
flooring may be beyond my capability. I certainly have no tools to do
that (such as a nail gun).

Thanks
-GECKO


You can rent the special nailer that's used for flooring. My personal
concern would be more about cutting and fitting and nailing. But, of
course, you can rent a power mitre saw, too. I wouldn't shy away from it
from lack of experience. Just take your time.

--
Wayne Boatwright
(correct the spelling of "geemail" to reply)

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