Tying into the seage drain
Hi,
I have recently posted a question about tapping into this drain: http://freeboundaries.com/drain.jpg and I received good advice to actually tie into one of the smaller pipes that go into it. Well it turns out that that location is too high and would allow the space for a long-enough standpipe for my washer. So I have to tie into that drain somewhere lower. The drain that you see in the picture is actually 4 feet off the floor but it takes a 90 degree turn downwards and it's into this vertical part of the drain that I would need to tie in. So my question again is: what's involved? I assume it's cast iron so I would somehow have to drill a hole in the cast iron and attach a 2" pipe. What do I need and where do I start? Many thanks in advance, Aaron |
Tying into the seage drain
On Sep 19, 3:34*pm, Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi, I have recently posted a question about tapping into this drain: http://freeboundaries.com/drain.jpg and I received good advice to actually tie into one of the smaller pipes that go into it. Well it turns out that that location is too high and would allow the space for a long-enough standpipe for my washer. So I have to tie into that drain somewhere lower. The drain that you see in the picture is actually 4 feet off the floor but it takes a 90 degree turn downwards and it's into this vertical part of the drain that I would need to tie in. So my question again is: what's involved? I assume it's cast iron so I would somehow have to drill a hole in the cast iron and attach a 2" pipe. What do I need and where do I start? Many thanks in advance, Aaron No, you don't drill a hole in it. You cut out a section of it and tie in a PVC (or ABS in Canada and some western states) 4" x 2" WYE (or sanitary Tee) with a couple short pcs of 4" PVC above and below, and use Clamp-Alls to tie to the cast iron. A "snap cutter" makes short work of cutting the stack, but I have good success with a 4" grinder and a cheapie diamond blade. Feel free to email me off list for more details if you need them. JK |
Tying into the seage drain
Big_Jake wrote:
On Sep 19, 3:34Â*pm, Aaron Fude wrote: Hi, I have recently posted a question about tapping into this drain: http://freeboundaries.com/drain.jpg and I received good advice to actually tie into one of the smaller pipes that go into it. Well it turns out that that location is too high and would allow the space for a long-enough standpipe for my washer. So I have to tie into that drain somewhere lower. The drain that you see in the picture is actually 4 feet off the floor but it takes a 90 degree turn downwards and it's into this vertical part of the drain that I would need to tie in. So my question again is: what's involved? I assume it's cast iron so I would somehow have to drill a hole in the cast iron and attach a 2" pipe. What do I need and where do I start? Many thanks in advance, Aaron No, you don't drill a hole in it. You cut out a section of it and tie in a PVC (or ABS in Canada and some western states) 4" x 2" WYE (or sanitary Tee) with a couple short pcs of 4" PVC above and below, and use Clamp-Alls to tie to the cast iron. A "snap cutter" makes short work of cutting the stack, but I have good success with a 4" grinder and a cheapie diamond blade. Feel free to email me off list for more details if you need them. JK What jake said!!!!! -- "You can lead them to LINUX but you can't make them THINK" Running Mandriva release 2008.0 free-i586 using KDE on i586 Website Address http://rentmyhusband.co.nr/ |
Tying into the seage drain
On Sep 19, 10:15*pm, evodawg wrote:
Big_Jake wrote: On Sep 19, 3:34*pm, Aaron Fude wrote: Hi, I have recently posted a question about tapping into this drain: http://freeboundaries.com/drain.jpg and I received good advice to actually tie into one of the smaller pipes that go into it. Well it turns out that that location is too high and would allow the space for a long-enough standpipe for my washer. So I have to tie into that drain somewhere lower. The drain that you see in the picture is actually 4 feet off the floor but it takes a 90 degree turn downwards and it's into this vertical part of the drain that I would need to tie in. So my question again is: what's involved? I assume it's cast iron so I would somehow have to drill a hole in the cast iron and attach a 2" pipe. What do I need and where do I start? Many thanks in advance, Aaron No, you don't drill a hole in it. *You cut out a section of it and tie in a PVC (or ABS in Canada and some western states) 4" x 2" WYE (or sanitary Tee) with a couple short pcs of 4" PVC above and below, and use Clamp-Alls to tie to the cast iron. *A "snap cutter" makes short work of cutting the stack, but I have good success with a 4" grinder and a cheapie diamond blade. Feel free to email me off list for more details if you need them. JK What jake said!!!!! -- "You can lead them to LINUX but you can't make them THINK" Running Mandriva release 2008.0 free-i586 using KDE on i586 Website Addresshttp://rentmyhusband.co.nr/- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks for the advice! Just so that I visualize it correctly, does the PVC pipe go on the inside for the stack, the outside, or just about flush? Also, I own a grinder, buy I am wondering if it would still work if my stack is only a couple of inches away from the wall. Thanks again, Aaron |
Tying into the seage drain
On Sep 21, 4:19*am, Aaron Fude wrote:
On Sep 19, 10:15*pm, evodawg wrote: Big_Jake wrote: On Sep 19, 3:34*pm, Aaron Fude wrote: Hi, I have recently posted a question about tapping into this drain: http://freeboundaries.com/drain.jpg and I received good advice to actually tie into one of the smaller pipes that go into it. Well it turns out that that location is too high and would allow the space for a long-enough standpipe for my washer. So I have to tie into that drain somewhere lower. The drain that you see in the picture is actually 4 feet off the floor but it takes a 90 degree turn downwards and it's into this vertical part of the drain that I would need to tie in. So my question again is: what's involved? I assume it's cast iron so I would somehow have to drill a hole in the cast iron and attach a 2" pipe. What do I need and where do I start? Many thanks in advance, Aaron No, you don't drill a hole in it. *You cut out a section of it and tie in a PVC (or ABS in Canada and some western states) 4" x 2" WYE (or sanitary Tee) with a couple short pcs of 4" PVC above and below, and use Clamp-Alls to tie to the cast iron. *A "snap cutter" makes short work of cutting the stack, but I have good success with a 4" grinder and a cheapie diamond blade. Feel free to email me off list for more details if you need them. JK What jake said!!!!! -- "You can lead them to LINUX but you can't make them THINK" Running Mandriva release 2008.0 free-i586 using KDE on i586 Website Addresshttp://rentmyhusband.co.nr/-Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks for the advice! Just so that I visualize it correctly, does the PVC pipe go on the inside for the stack, the outside, or just about flush? Also, I own a grinder, buy I am wondering if it would still work if my stack is only a couple of inches away from the wall. Thanks again, Aaron- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - It has to go flush so the rubber coupling will slide over and seal against both pipes where they meet. |
Tying into the seage drain
On Sep 19, 3:34*pm, Aaron Fude wrote:
snip Why not do it the easy way and get rid of the cast iron to the extent necessary to install PVC with Fernco fittings? The result would be much tidier and secure installation. Disturbing old cast iron often causes ancient lead and oakum seals to leak. Joe |
Tying into the seage drain
On Sep 21, 7:11*am, wrote:
On Sep 21, 4:19*am, Aaron Fude wrote: On Sep 19, 10:15*pm, evodawg wrote: Big_Jake wrote: On Sep 19, 3:34*pm, Aaron Fude wrote: Hi, I have recently posted a question about tapping into this drain: http://freeboundaries.com/drain.jpg and I received good advice to actually tie into one of the smaller pipes that go into it. Well it turns out that that location is too high and would allow the space for a long-enough standpipe for my washer. So I have to tie into that drain somewhere lower. The drain that you see in the picture is actually 4 feet off the floor but it takes a 90 degree turn downwards and it's into this vertical part of the drain that I would need to tie in. So my question again is: what's involved? I assume it's cast iron so I would somehow have to drill a hole in the cast iron and attach a 2" pipe. What do I need and where do I start? Many thanks in advance, Aaron No, you don't drill a hole in it. *You cut out a section of it and tie in a PVC (or ABS in Canada and some western states) 4" x 2" WYE (or sanitary Tee) with a couple short pcs of 4" PVC above and below, and use Clamp-Alls to tie to the cast iron. *A "snap cutter" makes short work of cutting the stack, but I have good success with a 4" grinder and a cheapie diamond blade. Feel free to email me off list for more details if you need them. JK What jake said!!!!! -- "You can lead them to LINUX but you can't make them THINK" Running Mandriva release 2008.0 free-i586 using KDE on i586 Website Addresshttp://rentmyhusband.co.nr/-Hidequoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks for the advice! Just so that I visualize it correctly, does the PVC pipe go on the inside for the stack, the outside, or just about flush? Also, I own a grinder, buy I am wondering if it would still work if my stack is only a couple of inches away from the wall. Thanks again, Aaron- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - It has to go flush so the rubber coupling will slide over and seal against both pipes where they meet. Yep. Cutting the pipe close to the wall will be tough with the grinder. The least difficult way to finish off the cut will be a recip saw with a grit blade, but that is still tough. You might want to rent a snap cutter instead. JK |
Tying into the seage drain
On Sep 21, 3:47*pm, Speedy Jim wrote:
Aaron Fude wrote: On Sep 21, 4:07 pm, Aaron Fude wrote: On Sep 21, 1:08 pm, Big_Jake wrote: On Sep 21, 7:11 am, wrote: On Sep 21, 4:19 am, Aaron Fude wrote: On Sep 19, 10:15 pm, evodawg wrote: Big_Jake wrote: On Sep 19, 3:34 pm, Aaron Fude wrote: Hi, I have recently posted a question about tapping into this drain: http://freeboundaries.com/drain.jpg and I received good advice to actually tie into one of the smaller pipes that go into it. Well it turns out that that location is too high and would allow the space for a long-enough standpipe for my washer. So I have to tie into that drain somewhere lower. The drain that you see in the picture is actually 4 feet off the floor but it takes a 90 degree turn downwards and it's into this vertical part of the drain that I would need to tie in. So my question again is: what's involved? I assume it's cast iron so I would somehow have to drill a hole in the cast iron and attach a 2" pipe. What do I need and where do I start? Many thanks in advance, Aaron No, you don't drill a hole in it. *You cut out a section of it and tie in a PVC (or ABS in Canada and some western states) 4" x 2" WYE (or sanitary Tee) with a couple short pcs of 4" PVC above and below, and use Clamp-Alls to tie to the cast iron. *A "snap cutter" makes short work of cutting the stack, but I have good success with a 4" grinder and a cheapie diamond blade. Feel free to email me off list for more details if you need them. JK What jake said!!!!! -- "You can lead them to LINUX but you can't make them THINK" Running Mandriva release 2008.0 free-i586 using KDE on i586 Website Addresshttp://rentmyhusband.co.nr/-Hidequotedtext- - Show quoted text - Thanks for the advice! Just so that I visualize it correctly, does the PVC pipe go on the inside for the stack, the outside, or just about flush? Also, I own a grinder, buy I am wondering if it would still work if my stack is only a couple of inches away from the wall. Thanks again, Aaron- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - It has to go flush so the rubber coupling will slide over and seal against both pipes where they meet. Yep. *Cutting the pipe close to the wall will be tough with the grinder. *The least difficult way to finish off the cut will be a recip saw with a grit blade, but that is still tough. *You might want to rent a snap cutter instead. JK- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Is this the kind of tool we are talking about? Thanks!- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Forgot the link: http://www.drillspot.com/products/69...2_Chain_Pipe_C... * *Yes. * *See if a local tool rental place has one, rather than owning it. Jim always beats me to the punch! :-) My local Home Depot rents them, but the one in your link is pretty wimpy, and completely maxes out on a 4" stack. Rent a Ridgid. JK |
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