I have always coped inside corners in crown molding. It's the way I was
taught, and it's the way the books say, and it's the way it's been done in
all the old houses I've worked on. However, after all these years, I'm still
not sure why it's better to make a coped joint instead of a simple miter.
Would someone care to enlighten me?

On Apr 1, 12:46 am, KJS wrote:
I'm still
not sure why it's better to make a coped joint instead of a simple miter.

It isn't. Coping just makes making a good joint "easier" on walls not
square and/or plumb.
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- gpsman

On Mon, 31 Mar 2008 21:46:53 -0700, KJS
wrote:

I have always coped inside corners in crown molding. It's the way I was
taught, and it's the way the books say, and it's the way it's been done in
all the old houses I've worked on. However, after all these years, I'm still
not sure why it's better to make a coped joint instead of a simple miter.
Would someone care to enlighten me?


When the building shifts, when the room changes shape, when the wood
expands/shrinks, the corner seem may open up. When coped in the
proper direction (when viewed from the entrance door), the gap is made
much less visible than if the joint were mitered.

on 4/1/2008 12:46 AM KJS said the following:
I have always coped inside corners in crown molding. It's the way I was
taught, and it's the way the books say, and it's the way it's been done in
all the old houses I've worked on. However, after all these years, I'm still
not sure why it's better to make a coped joint instead of a simple miter.
Would someone care to enlighten me?


Some corners are not completely square, so coping is the answer. I cope
crown molding if it is plain, undecorated molding. When the molding is
complicated ( i.e. egg, pineapple, beading, etc.), I miter.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
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