I can reasonably solder electronics although I get an occasional cold
solder joint. I have this pair of glasses I didn't wear much which
cracked near the temple joint. (The temple cracked). The repair shops
ask too much, compared to what I paid for the glasses. I tried online
to find temples, to no luck. So I'm considering soldering it. My
uncle (a retired EE) told me it would never hold. Part of the problem
is it cracked very near the screw joint. and so would suffer a lot
more torque than if it was further back. Any tips?

- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Remorse begets zeal] [Windows is for Bimbos]

wrote in message
...
I can reasonably solder electronics although I get an occasional cold
solder joint. I have this pair of glasses I didn't wear much which
cracked near the temple joint. (The temple cracked). The repair shops
ask too much, compared to what I paid for the glasses. I tried online
to find temples, to no luck. So I'm considering soldering it. My
uncle (a retired EE) told me it would never hold. Part of the problem
is it cracked very near the screw joint. and so would suffer a lot
more torque than if it was further back. Any tips?

Yes, buy a new pair of glasses.

Will it hold? We can't tell you that not knowing what the material is that
you are soldering. It may be brass, titanium, zinc, or something else. If
they are junk now, you have nothing to lose so give it a try. Worse case
scenario is you get a new pair.

wrote:

I can reasonably solder electronics although I get an occasional cold
solder joint. I have this pair of glasses I didn't wear much which
cracked near the temple joint. (The temple cracked). The repair shops
ask too much, compared to what I paid for the glasses. I tried online
to find temples, to no luck. So I'm considering soldering it. My
uncle (a retired EE) told me it would never hold. Part of the problem
is it cracked very near the screw joint. and so would suffer a lot
more torque than if it was further back. Any tips?

Consider brazing the joint; you may be able to find a hobbyist
minitorch that uses tiny propane and oxygen cylinders -- Radio Shack
used to sell these in the States.

FWIW, I have also made repairs on tiny objects using very low
currents with a wire-feed welder; build up the repair and grind
to final shape.

Michael

wrote in message
...
I can reasonably solder electronics although I get an occasional cold
solder joint. I have this pair of glasses I didn't wear much which
cracked near the temple joint. (The temple cracked). The repair shops
ask too much, compared to what I paid for the glasses. I tried online
to find temples, to no luck. So I'm considering soldering it. My
uncle (a retired EE) told me it would never hold. Part of the problem
is it cracked very near the screw joint. and so would suffer a lot
more torque than if it was further back. Any tips?


You could try a little JB Weld. It might look awful, but it might also work.

Lead and Tin will not work. I learned how to repair eyeglass frames from my
Dad working in his office. He was an "old school" Optometrist. Back in the
day when Jewelry stores had Optometrists. His office was one of the few
places that repaired broken frames. It requires gold solder and an acetylene
jewelers torch. Quick and easy if you have the tools. It will discolor the
finish some. If you attempt any other method, it will not work for long and
they will be rendered un-repairable. See if you can find a good Jewelers.



john





wrote in message
...
I can reasonably solder electronics although I get an occasional cold
solder joint. I have this pair of glasses I didn't wear much which
cracked near the temple joint. (The temple cracked). The repair shops
ask too much, compared to what I paid for the glasses. I tried online
to find temples, to no luck. So I'm considering soldering it. My
uncle (a retired EE) told me it would never hold. Part of the problem
is it cracked very near the screw joint. and so would suffer a lot
more torque than if it was further back. Any tips?

- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Remorse begets zeal] [Windows is for
Bimbos]

Any tips?

Cannibalize dollar store readers for a replacement temple piece.

You can braze with propane or MAPP and air.

A soldered butt joint won't typically hold, but it may work if you
splint with a bit of steel or stainless wire there (any old guitar strings
around?). You can gammon with fine Nichrome wire sold for ignitors on
eBay.

Richard J Kinch wrote in
:

Any tips?

Cannibalize dollar store readers for a replacement temple piece.

You can braze with propane or MAPP and air.

A soldered butt joint won't typically hold, but it may work if you
splint with a bit of steel or stainless wire there (any old guitar
strings around?). You can gammon with fine Nichrome wire sold for
ignitors on eBay.

This fellow uses silver solder to repair glasses. Not to be a shill for him, but we used him for DH's
glasses, and he did a fine job.
http://www.adamsfashionoptical.com/Services/repair.htm

J.

How about taking it to a jeweler who can use a harder, stronger kind of
solder and is familiar with metals other than the ones we ordinarily work
with?

wrote in message
...
I can reasonably solder electronics although I get an occasional cold
solder joint. I have this pair of glasses I didn't wear much which
cracked near the temple joint. (The temple cracked). The repair shops
ask too much, compared to what I paid for the glasses. I tried online
to find temples, to no luck. So I'm considering soldering it. My
uncle (a retired EE) told me it would never hold. Part of the problem
is it cracked very near the screw joint. and so would suffer a lot
more torque than if it was further back. Any tips?

- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Remorse begets zeal] [Windows is for
Bimbos]

) writes:
I can reasonably solder electronics although I get an occasional cold
solder joint. I have this pair of glasses I didn't wear much which
cracked near the temple joint. (The temple cracked). The repair shops
ask too much, compared to what I paid for the glasses. I tried online
to find temples, to no luck. So I'm considering soldering it. My
uncle (a retired EE) told me it would never hold. Part of the problem
is it cracked very near the screw joint. and so would suffer a lot
more torque than if it was further back. Any tips?

You drill holes on both sides of the break, and "sew" it with fine wire.
I suppose strong thread would work too. Then epoxy over it, using heat
so it solidifies fast.

Or if you still want to solder, drill the holes, wire it together, and then
solder the wire and frame together. The wire holds it together, the solder
just adds a level of firmness.

Michael

wrote:

I can reasonably solder electronics although I get an occasional cold
solder joint. I have this pair of glasses I didn't wear much which
cracked near the temple joint. (The temple cracked). The repair shops
ask too much, compared to what I paid for the glasses. I tried online
to find temples, to no luck. So I'm considering soldering it. My
uncle (a retired EE) told me it would never hold. Part of the problem
is it cracked very near the screw joint. and so would suffer a lot
more torque than if it was further back. Any tips?

- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Remorse begets zeal] [Windows is for Bimbos]

Solder would never hold, those frames are typically brazed. You can
certainly re-braze them, though you would potentially also need to
re-paint / re-finish them afterwards.

On Jan 19, 9:21 pm, wrote:
I can reasonably solder electronics although I get an occasional cold
solder joint. I have this pair of glasses I didn't wear much which
cracked near the temple joint. (The temple cracked). The repair shops
ask too much, compared to what I paid for the glasses. I tried online
to find temples, to no luck. So I'm considering soldering it. My
uncle (a retired EE) told me it would never hold. Part of the problem
is it cracked very near the screw joint. and so would suffer a lot
more torque than if it was further back. Any tips?

I have successfully soldered many pair of frames using regular or
lead free solder. You can test to see if the solder sticks first.
Rough the area up a bit with sandpaper or a file or a Dremel with a
small wheel. You can buy stainless solder at the hardware store for
about $5 that has more aggressive flux. The lead free solder will be
stronger and take more heat to flow.
I got tired of replacing those pads on the temple of my running
glasses so I broke off the arms and ground off the burrs. Then I
soldered a center piece on from another pair that had solid plastic
inserts. They work great. You can buff the area afterwards with a
Dremel and a small wire wheel to remove much of the discoloration.

On Sun, 20 Jan 2008 04:17:52 -0800 (PST), Al Bundy
wrote:

On Jan 19, 9:21 pm, wrote:
I can reasonably solder electronics although I get an occasional cold
solder joint. I have this pair of glasses I didn't wear much which
cracked near the temple joint. (The temple cracked). The repair shops
ask too much, compared to what I paid for the glasses. I tried online
to find temples, to no luck. So I'm considering soldering it. My
uncle (a retired EE) told me it would never hold. Part of the problem
is it cracked very near the screw joint. and so would suffer a lot
more torque than if it was further back. Any tips?

I have successfully soldered many pair of frames using regular or
lead free solder. You can test to see if the solder sticks first.
Rough the area up a bit with sandpaper or a file or a Dremel with a
small wheel. You can buy stainless solder at the hardware store for
about $5 that has more aggressive flux. The lead free solder will be
stronger and take more heat to flow.
I got tired of replacing those pads on the temple of my running
glasses so I broke off the arms and ground off the burrs. Then I
soldered a center piece on from another pair that had solid plastic
inserts. They work great. You can buff the area afterwards with a
Dremel and a small wire wheel to remove much of the discoloration.

I have a pair of glasses for the computer that I periodically
re-solder. I couldn't get a successful join until I took an onld
barss track connector from an HO railroad set, and made it into a
sleeve, and soldered the ends into that. The same could be done with a
half inch of small brass hobby tubing. Looks like crap, but you
can't see me through my screen (yet).

In article , wrote:
I can reasonably solder electronics although I get an occasional cold
solder joint. I have this pair of glasses I didn't wear much which
cracked near the temple joint. (The temple cracked). The repair shops
ask too much, compared to what I paid for the glasses. I tried online
to find temples, to no luck. So I'm considering soldering it. My
uncle (a retired EE) told me it would never hold. Part of the problem
is it cracked very near the screw joint. and so would suffer a lot
more torque than if it was further back. Any tips?

Your uncle's right. Eyeglasses frames are brazed, not soldered. Last time I
had to get frames repaired (about 5 years ago), it cost $25, which is a *lot*
cheaper than a new set of frames.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Try www.framesdirect.com. (I got my Flexons from them, then had Costco grind
and install the lenses.) If the frame is still manufactured, they'll
probably be able to find it for you, or a frame that has the same lens
shape.

Another possibility is to contact the frame's manufacturer. They might be
able to supply an exact-replacement temple (or a compatible one).

Many thanks for excellent replies. My plan is to try to get stainless
solder and then try a jeweler. THere is a place on Queens Blvd which
says "watch repair & shoe repair"

If I get sep read/walk glasses, Zenni is as low as $9. I got the
eyeglasses which broke in 2003 for $30 and that "factory outlet" now
costs $40. They must be cast iron because they hurt and I tried to
bend them in church when they broke. I used to be good at bending. I
really don't care if the temple looks different.


- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Remorse begets zeal] [Windows is for Bimbos]

When the thin tubual metal temples broke on my [Zenni Optical] glasses,
squeezed the ends into a short length of insulation from 12 gauge wire.
Worked well for many months and didn't look too bad. Eventually Zenni sent
a replacement.
--
Remove -NOSPAM- to contact me.

On Sun, 20 Jan 2008 02:21:31 +0000 (UTC),
wrote:

I can reasonably solder electronics although I get an occasional cold
solder joint. I have this pair of glasses I didn't wear much which
cracked near the temple joint. (The temple cracked). The repair shops
ask too much, compared to what I paid for the glasses. I tried online
to find temples, to no luck. So I'm considering soldering it. My
uncle (a retired EE) told me it would never hold. Part of the problem
is it cracked very near the screw joint. and so would suffer a lot
more torque than if it was further back. Any tips?

- = -

The only time I did it successfully was with an acetylene-air torch
and silver solder it. It needs to be heated red hot, the borax flux
melts. A touch of silver solder instantly melts and wicks into the
heated metal frame.

Eyeglass repair webs say they use gold solder.

I could almost make the temple from wire (run the screw through a
loop). If only I knew where to find "antique bronze" wire that stiff
and thick.

- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Remorse begets zeal] [Windows is for Bimbos]

wrote:
I can reasonably solder electronics although I get an occasional cold
solder joint. I have this pair of glasses I didn't wear much which
cracked near the temple joint. (The temple cracked). The repair shops
ask too much, compared to what I paid for the glasses. I tried online
to find temples, to no luck. So I'm considering soldering it. My
uncle (a retired EE) told me it would never hold. Part of the problem
is it cracked very near the screw joint. and so would suffer a lot
more torque than if it was further back. Any tips?



My tip: Take them off before attempting to solder them.

a

*+-My tip: Take them off before attempting to solder them.

Have been known to be quite ambidexterous, but not THAT much!

More seriously, I would need something to hold them in place.


- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Remorse begets zeal] [Windows is for Bimbos]

On Jan 19, 9:21*pm, wrote:

ask too much, compared to what I paid for the glasses. I tried online
to find temples, to no luck. So I'm considering soldering it. *My
uncle (a retired EE) told me it would never hold. Part of the problem
is it cracked very near the screw joint. and so would suffer a lot
more torque than if it was further back. Any tips?

If you can reinforce the joint using solder only as a glue, that might
work. Back in my 'poverty' days, I used a bit of brass tubing to make
a surrounding splint and soldered that. With some care and a bit of
filing, it could even be made passably good looking. I have also used
fine copper or brass wire to wind around a beginning crack for the
same reasons. Both of the above repairs outlasted the prescription.

Excessive heat might anneal the metal, some metals will not accept
solder, and tin/lead solder is also affected by corrosives in sweat.
Silver-solder is better but even that is not great. JB Weld is
excellent material if it can be splinted... and if tubing is used
approximating the color of the temple, excess or spill can be filed
away.

Now, I have Titanium frames that I have never had fail. That and
progressive lenses (vanity) and ultra-high plastic - more vanity.

Good luck with it.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA

Uncrewed the leftover part of the frame and it is the size of a nut.
I thought there might be some stem left, but no. This seems
undoable. I once repaired plastic frames by screwing an eye-screw into
the frame with a similar fracture. I wonder if I can't solder an eye
screw (looks like the letter P) in there. In the toirtoise shell
plastic glasses, the eye screw repair looked darn near invisible.

Heck, it would almost be easier to twist the frame 90 degrees and put
a hole in perpendicular to the flat side and run the screw through
that.

- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Remorse begets zeal] [Windows is for Bimbos]

Hey i fix glasses ... normal solder dont hold .. its a special type of solder ... send it to me and ill fix it for 30usd

Http://www.glassesrepairstt.com

On 4/20/2017 10:06 PM, wrote:
Hey i fix glasses ... normal solder dont hold .. its a special type of solder ... send it to me and ill fix it for 30usd

Http://www.glassesrepair****.com


My beer glasses need fixing. Do you do them?

On Saturday, January 19, 2008 at 9:21:31 PM UTC-5, wrote:
I can reasonably solder electronics although I get an occasional cold
solder joint. I have this pair of glasses I didn't wear much which
cracked near the temple joint. (The temple cracked). The repair shops
ask too much, compared to what I paid for the glasses. I tried online
to find temples, to no luck. So I'm considering soldering it. My
uncle (a retired EE) told me it would never hold. Part of the problem
is it cracked very near the screw joint. and so would suffer a lot
more torque than if it was further back. Any tips?

- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Remorse begets zeal] [Windows is for Bimbos]

well being 2017 I broke another pair & after thinking about it I think i'll use after scuffing up the paint i'll use Contact Cement: It takes a # of days to stat to harden & I may coat it a few times & may take over a week or so to really start to set up & get hard; but once it does its' like a rock& don't know what if you bend them of what they will do?

On Saturday, January 19, 2008 at 8:21:31 PM UTC-6, wrote:
I can reasonably solder electronics although I get an occasional cold
solder joint. I have this pair of glasses I didn't wear much which
cracked near the temple joint. (The temple cracked). The repair shops
ask too much, compared to what I paid for the glasses. I tried online
to find temples, to no luck. So I'm considering soldering it. My
uncle (a retired EE) told me it would never hold. Part of the problem
is it cracked very near the screw joint. and so would suffer a lot
more torque than if it was further back. Any tips?

- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Remorse begets zeal] [Windows is for Bimbos]

I have a pair of titanium, glasses can they be spot welded to repair?

On 12/22/2017 2:57 PM, wrote:
On Saturday, January 19, 2008 at 8:21:31 PM UTC-6, wrote:
I can reasonably solder electronics although I get an occasional cold
solder joint. I have this pair of glasses I didn't wear much which
cracked near the temple joint. (The temple cracked). The repair shops
ask too much, compared to what I paid for the glasses. I tried online
to find temples, to no luck. So I'm considering soldering it. My
uncle (a retired EE) told me it would never hold. Part of the problem
is it cracked very near the screw joint. and so would suffer a lot
more torque than if it was further back. Any tips?

- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Remorse begets zeal] [Windows is for Bimbos]

I have a pair of titanium, glasses can they be spot welded to repair?


I've been buying memory titanium framed glasses from Zenni Optical on
line. Last pair a few weeks ago was $82 and that included shipping.
Besides frames lenses are bifocal and anti-reflective coating. Their
glasses are cheap enough that you can buy over a half dozen pairs for
less than the cost of one in the USA. My latest were just for the
computer but I have a couple of regular pairs.

I did break one of their titanium frames several years ago in the nose
bridge region with only one connection. Did not try to fix it as that
is a high stress area.

Frank posted for all of us...



On 12/22/2017 2:57 PM, wrote:
On Saturday, January 19, 2008 at 8:21:31 PM UTC-6, wrote:
I can reasonably solder electronics although I get an occasional cold
solder joint. I have this pair of glasses I didn't wear much which
cracked near the temple joint. (The temple cracked). The repair shops
ask too much, compared to what I paid for the glasses. I tried online
to find temples, to no luck. So I'm considering soldering it. My
uncle (a retired EE) told me it would never hold. Part of the problem
is it cracked very near the screw joint. and so would suffer a lot
more torque than if it was further back. Any tips?

- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Remorse begets zeal] [Windows is for Bimbos]

I have a pair of titanium, glasses can they be spot welded to repair?


I've been buying memory titanium framed glasses from Zenni Optical on
line. Last pair a few weeks ago was $82 and that included shipping.
Besides frames lenses are bifocal and anti-reflective coating. Their
glasses are cheap enough that you can buy over a half dozen pairs for
less than the cost of one in the USA. My latest were just for the
computer but I have a couple of regular pairs.

I did break one of their titanium frames several years ago in the nose
bridge region with only one connection. Did not try to fix it as that
is a high stress area.

I have often wondered how their products are... My guy takes several
measurements when purchasing. How does Zenni do this?

--
Tekkie

On 12/22/2017 11:57 AM, wrote:
On Saturday, January 19, 2008 at 8:21:31 PM UTC-6, wrote:
I can reasonably solder electronics although I get an occasional cold
solder joint. I have this pair of glasses I didn't wear much which
cracked near the temple joint. (The temple cracked). The repair shops
ask too much, compared to what I paid for the glasses. I tried online
to find temples, to no luck. So I'm considering soldering it. My
uncle (a retired EE) told me it would never hold. Part of the problem
is it cracked very near the screw joint. and so would suffer a lot
more torque than if it was further back. Any tips?

- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Remorse begets zeal] [Windows is for Bimbos]

I have a pair of titanium, glasses can they be spot welded to repair?



It worked for me years ago. It wasn't a titanium frame. I think I had
to file down a bit of the surface to be able to tin the material.
Lasted for years - in fact I now have it out in the garage to wear when
I am working out there, though I never remember.