I purchased a sheet of Owens Pink. when I placed it against the wall,
I noticed that there is a lot of concrete burrs and nipples left over
from the forms that were used to poor the walls. Should I attempt to
work around those or can I remove them somehow ?


Thanks

On Jan 14, 7:50*am, sid wrote:
I purchased a sheet of Owens Pink. when I placed it against the wall,
I noticed that there is a lot of concrete burrs and nipples left over
from the forms that were used to poor the walls. *Should I attempt to
work around those or can I remove them somehow ?

Thanks

Dont let a concrete ooze burr cause your stud wall to be crooked,
either notch the stud or chip off the burr with a chiesel where
needed. These can be chipped off without harming the foundation
wall. Not sure what you mean by "nipples" though.

On Jan 14, 8:50 am, sid wrote:
I purchased a sheet of Owens Pink. when I placed it against the wall,
I noticed that there is a lot of concrete burrs and nipples left over
from the forms that were used to poor the walls. Should I attempt to
work around those or can I remove them somehow ?

Thanks

if you are putting the foamboard against the wall first (you should
be), then it isn't a problem since it will press right into the foam.
then you true the studs on their own.

On Jan 14, 1:57*pm, wrote:
On Jan 14, 8:50 am, sid wrote:

I purchased a sheet of Owens Pink. when I placed it against the wall,
I noticed that there is a lot of concrete burrs and nipples left over
from the forms that were used to poor the walls. *Should I attempt to
work around those or can I remove them somehow ?

Thanks

if you are putting the foamboard against the wall first (you should
be), then it isn't a problem since it will press right into the foam.
then you true the studs on their own.

The forms had a hole in the middle about 1.5" dia. that the concrete
started to ooze out of to form small round protrusions about 1/2" out
from the wall (some as far as an inch) exactly in the middle of the
form. I thought the best description was a nipple.

On Jan 14, 6:56*pm, sid wrote:
On Jan 14, 1:57*pm, wrote:

On Jan 14, 8:50 am, sid wrote:

I purchased a sheet of Owens Pink. when I placed it against the wall,
I noticed that there is a lot of concrete burrs and nipples left over
from the forms that were used to poor the walls. *Should I attempt to
work around those or can I remove them somehow ?

Thanks

if you are putting the foamboard against the wall first (you should
be), then it isn't a problem since it will press right into the foam.
then you true the studs on their own.

The forms had a hole in the middle about 1.5" dia. that the concrete
started to ooze out of to form small round protrusions about 1/2" out
from the wall (some as far as an inch) * exactly in the middle of the
form. *I thought the best description was a nipple.

Those I would not just chip off then, I was thinking it was normal
ooze, best to work around those. If you are applying rigid pink
directly to the walls you'll want to dry lock the wall first with
latex dryloc. To prevent dampness mold from forming between the
panels and the concrete which will have no airflow.

On Jan 15, 9:20*am, RickH wrote:
On Jan 14, 6:56*pm, sid wrote:





On Jan 14, 1:57*pm, wrote:

On Jan 14, 8:50 am, sid wrote:

I purchased a sheet of Owens Pink. when I placed it against the wall,
I noticed that there is a lot of concrete burrs and nipples left over
from the forms that were used to poor the walls. *Should I attempt to
work around those or can I remove them somehow ?

Thanks

if you are putting the foamboard against the wall first (you should
be), then it isn't a problem since it will press right into the foam.
then you true the studs on their own.

The forms had a hole in the middle about 1.5" dia. that the concrete
started to ooze out of to form small round protrusions about 1/2" out
from the wall (some as far as an inch) * exactly in the middle of the
form. *I thought the best description was a nipple.

Those I would not just chip off then, I was thinking it was normal
ooze, best to work around those. *If you are applying rigid pink
directly to the walls you'll want to dry lock the wall first with
latex dryloc. *To prevent dampness mold from forming between the
panels and the concrete which will have no airflow.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

In another post "Installing foil backed insullation board"
I ask about the how to control moisture and I was referred to:
http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...3-understandin...
which states there should be not vapor barior.

Is there something different that I should know ?

Sid.

On Jan 16, 11:33*am, sid wrote:
On Jan 15, 9:20*am, RickH wrote:





On Jan 14, 6:56*pm, sid wrote:

On Jan 14, 1:57*pm, wrote:

On Jan 14, 8:50 am, sid wrote:

I purchased a sheet of Owens Pink. when I placed it against the wall,
I noticed that there is a lot of concrete burrs and nipples left over
from the forms that were used to poor the walls. *Should I attempt to
work around those or can I remove them somehow ?

Thanks

if you are putting the foamboard against the wall first (you should
be), then it isn't a problem since it will press right into the foam..
then you true the studs on their own.

The forms had a hole in the middle about 1.5" dia. that the concrete
started to ooze out of to form small round protrusions about 1/2" out
from the wall (some as far as an inch) * exactly in the middle of the
form. *I thought the best description was a nipple.

Those I would not just chip off then, I was thinking it was normal
ooze, best to work around those. *If you are applying rigid pink
directly to the walls you'll want to dry lock the wall first with
latex dryloc. *To prevent dampness mold from forming between the
panels and the concrete which will have no airflow.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

In another post "Installing foil backed insullation board"
I ask about the how to control moisture and I was referred to:http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...3-understandin...
which states there should be not vapor barior.

Is there something different that I should know ?

Sid.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I suggested to dryloc paint the concrete walls before construction
which will keep the normal dampness levels down overall. Same with
the slab using a latex sealer like Thompsons or Behr. A simple
plastic vapor barrier will indeed form moisture between the concrete
wall and the plastic, and would not suggest that because that just
traps moisture that already penetrated the wall. The drylocing is not
the same as a loose vapor barrier, its just waterproof paint. This
has been my experience with basement mustiness/mold forming in a few
years when moisture (not seepage) penetrates the concrete then has no
way to escape the stud wall or insulation constructed against it. I
assume you have no real seepage and that it is not a cinder block
wall. You can go without drylocing or sealing the slab, my experience
with 8 or 9 basements is to seal it first for mustiness control.