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Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
We recently purchased an brand new home in August and this is our
first year in the house. The house is much larger then my previous house (3200 sqft vs 2400 sqft) and I've noticed that the furnace runs much longer and much more often then my previous house. Based on the specs of the builder, they put in R-11 batts in the ceiling with R-27 blow in "for tight insulation" and R-13 batts in the walls. Does this sound sufficient? I'm not sure what the total R value would be for the ceiling (do you add the R-11 and R-27 to come up with R-38)? This past weekend, it was approx 0 degrees out. I turned the furnace down to 62 before we left for a day trip. When I returned, I set the furnace back to 68 (where I normally keep it) and it took approx 2.5 hours for the house to heat from 62 to 68. This seems very excessive to me. |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Wed, 2 Jan 2008 11:10:17 -0800 (PST), ATJaguarX
wrote: This past weekend, it was approx 0 degrees out. I turned the furnace down to 62 before we left for a day trip. When I returned, I set the furnace back to 68 (where I normally keep it) and it took approx 2.5 hours for the house to heat from 62 to 68. This seems very excessive to me. And to me: I live in a climate similar to yours, and my 2-stage gas furnace takes less than an hour to bring the house up from 60F to 65F, closer to 35 minutes. |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 2, 3:29*pm, KLS wrote:
On Wed, 2 Jan 2008 11:10:17 -0800 (PST), ATJaguarX wrote: This past weekend, it was approx 0 degrees out. *I turned the furnace down to 62 before we left for a day trip. *When I returned, I set the furnace back to 68 (where I normally keep it) and it took approx 2.5 hours for the house to heat from 62 to 68. *This seems very excessive to me. And to me: *I live in a climate similar to yours, and my 2-stage gas furnace takes less than an hour to bring the house up from 60F to 65F, closer to 35 minutes. * I've read the following online: "A properly-sized system is designed as closely as possible to the needs of the house; on the coldest days of the year, it should run almost continuously." http://www.hometips.com/cs-protected...nace_size.html |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
I've read the following online: "A properly-sized system is designed
as closely as possible to the needs of the house; on the coldest days of the year, it should run almost continuously." http://www.hometips.com/cs-protected...nace_size.html Bull. I live north of Chicago and it takes about 1/2 hour to get the house from 62 to 67. In fact it does it every day. My furnace goes off at 8am and doesn't turn on till 3pm every day. The lowest the temp gets is 60 deg and thats when it's 10 below outside. It sounds like your system is too small for the house. It wouldn't hurt to contact the building department with these questions. Lou |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 2, 4:21 pm, Lou wrote:
I've read the following online: "A properly-sized system is designed as closely as possible to the needs of the house; on the coldest days of the year, it should run almost continuously." http://www.hometips.com/cs-protected...nace_size.html Bull. I live north of Chicago and it takes about 1/2 hour to get the house from 62 to 67. In fact it does it every day. My furnace goes off at 8am and doesn't turn on till 3pm every day. The lowest the temp gets is 60 deg and thats when it's 10 below outside. It sounds like your system is too small for the house. It wouldn't hurt to contact the building department with these questions. Lou Another thing is that no matter what the wrapper says, the quality of the insulation depends a lot on the quality of the installation. Also, if you have crappy air sealing, that isn't going to help either. I think that unless you live in a place that is 70 degrees year round, you should have r 21 in your walls, but that's just my opinion. |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
well new high efficeny furnaces are sized closely to the home, for
most efficent operation. but gone are the days you could raise the temp of the home from 50 to 70 in a hour. new furnaces just arent that oversized. on insulation the higher the R value the better. ideally the builder would of used closed cell foam, its costly but its over R6 per inch. of course you would of had to pay the added cost, and since its not a see me item like granite countertops, its harder to justify......... minimum R standards for ew homes should be raised |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 2, 1:10*pm, ATJaguarX wrote:
We recently purchased an brand new home in August and this is our first year in the house. *The house is much larger then my previous house (3200 sqft vs 2400 sqft) and I've noticed that the furnace runs much longer and much more often then my previous house. *Based on the specs of the builder, they put in R-11 batts in the ceiling with R-27 blow in "for tight insulation" and R-13 batts in the walls. Does this sound sufficient? *I'm not sure what the total R value would be for the ceiling (do you add the R-11 and R-27 to come up with R-38)? This past weekend, it was approx 0 degrees out. *I turned the furnace down to 62 before we left for a day trip. *When I returned, I set the furnace back to 68 (where I normally keep it) and it took approx 2.5 hours for the house to heat from 62 to 68. *This seems very excessive to me. With your huge house and perhaps cathedral ceilings, great room (high ceiling) and all the other popular things now found in new homes, you probably have lousy air circulation and a sadly undersized furnace. IMO you need to get some competent help to analyze and correct the problem. Be ready for a shock when you get the quotes for the work. Deepest sympathies. Joe |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 2, 6:39*pm, Joe wrote:
On Jan 2, 1:10*pm, ATJaguarX wrote: We recently purchased an brand new home in August and this is our first year in the house. *The house is much larger then my previous house (3200 sqft vs 2400 sqft) and I've noticed that the furnace runs much longer and much more often then my previous house. *Based on the specs of the builder, they put in R-11 batts in the ceiling with R-27 blow in "for tight insulation" and R-13 batts in the walls. Does this sound sufficient? *I'm not sure what the total R value would be for the ceiling (do you add the R-11 and R-27 to come up with R-38)? This past weekend, it was approx 0 degrees out. *I turned the furnace down to 62 before we left for a day trip. *When I returned, I set the furnace back to 68 (where I normally keep it) and it took approx 2.5 hours for the house to heat from 62 to 68. *This seems very excessive to me. With your huge house and perhaps cathedral ceilings, great room (high ceiling) and all the other popular things now found in new homes, you probably have lousy air circulation and a sadly undersized furnace. IMO you need to get some competent help to analyze and correct the problem. Be ready for a shock when you get the quotes for the work. Deepest sympathies. Joe- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I have the builder and the HVAC guy coming on Friday to see what's going on. You mention "competent" help to analyze and correct the problem. Who would I turn for this? Should I not trust the opinion of the HVAC guy and the builder? |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 2, 1:10 pm, ATJaguarX wrote:
We recently purchased an brand new home in August and this is our first year in the house. The house is much larger then my previous house (3200 sqft vs 2400 sqft) and I've noticed that the furnace runs much longer and much more often then my previous house. Based on the specs of the builder, they put in R-11 batts in the ceiling with R-27 blow in "for tight insulation" and R-13 batts in the walls. Does this sound sufficient? I'm not sure what the total R value would be for the ceiling (do you add the R-11 and R-27 to come up with R-38)? This past weekend, it was approx 0 degrees out. I turned the furnace down to 62 before we left for a day trip. When I returned, I set the furnace back to 68 (where I normally keep it) and it took approx 2.5 hours for the house to heat from 62 to 68. This seems very excessive to me. I am just north of you, in WI, and R38 (which you have) is code for ceilings, and I think R13 is still ok for the walls. Hard to expect a builder to go beyond the minimum standard. I'm not too surprised that, with the extreme temps, it took a long time for the furnace to get up to temperature. The furnace should be sized to keep up with the heat loss on the coldest days. JK |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 2, 7:58*pm, ATJaguarX wrote:
snip I have the builder and the HVAC guy coming on Friday to see what's going on. *You mention "competent" help to analyze and correct the problem. *Who would I turn for this? *Should I not trust the opinion of the HVAC guy and the builder? Come on now, these are not the guys that caused the problem. Are you going to let them brain wash you into believing that the situation is normal? Whoever designed the house is the cause of the poor performance. Get a decent architect on board, someone familiar with ALL aspects of residential design. If you are near a major university with such a department, ask if someone there can recommend a firm in your area. Browse the Yellow Pages. Knowledge is power. Good luck. Joe |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 2, 1:10*pm, ATJaguarX wrote:
We recently purchased an brand new home in August and this is our first year in the house. *The house is much larger then my previous house (3200 sqft vs 2400 sqft) and I've noticed that the furnace runs much longer and much more often then my previous house. *Based on the specs of the builder, they put in R-11 batts in the ceiling with R-27 blow in "for tight insulation" and R-13 batts in the walls. Does this sound sufficient? *I'm not sure what the total R value would be for the ceiling (do you add the R-11 and R-27 to come up with R-38)? This past weekend, it was approx 0 degrees out. *I turned the furnace down to 62 before we left for a day trip. *When I returned, I set the furnace back to 68 (where I normally keep it) and it took approx 2.5 hours for the house to heat from 62 to 68. *This seems very excessive to me. It may all be normal, proper sizing of a furnace is that it runs nearly continously at the coldest day which is about -20f in chgo. 2.5 hrs is not much seeing all the furniture and walls you must heat that are now cold. Oversizing a furnace leads to short cycling and uncomfortable heat. is it a 2 stage unit, you might check that the second stage works. You have R38 , or at least you think you did, as nobody cheats, and blown in settles more than batt, Measure it yourself and calculate R value. But what you have is code, its the minimum, not optimal, and the code is old based upon cheap gas so do your own research. Optimal some say R 60 some say more. Im sure a laod calculation was done and you should have looked into projected heating costs, and they might be normal, depending on your design. |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 2, 10:18�pm, ransley wrote:
On Jan 2, 1:10�pm, ATJaguarX wrote: We recently purchased an brand new home in August and this is our first year in the house. �The house is much larger then my previous house (3200 sqft vs 2400 sqft) and I've noticed that the furnace runs much longer and much more often then my previous house. �Based on the specs of the builder, they put in R-11 batts in the ceiling with R-27 blow in "for tight insulation" and R-13 batts in the walls. Does this sound sufficient? �I'm not sure what the total R value would be for the ceiling (do you add the R-11 and R-27 to come up with R-38)? This past weekend, it was approx 0 degrees out. �I turned the furnace down to 62 before we left for a day trip. �When I returned, I set the furnace back to 68 (where I normally keep it) and it took approx 2.5 hours for the house to heat from 62 to 68. �This seems very excessive to me. It may all be normal, proper sizing of a furnace is that it runs nearly continously at the coldest day which is about -20f in chgo. 2.5 hrs is not much seeing all the furniture and walls you must heat that are now cold. Oversizing a furnace leads to short cycling and uncomfortable heat. is it a 2 stage unit, you might check that the second stage works. You have R38 , or at least you think you did, as nobody cheats, and blown in settles more than batt, Measure it yourself and calculate R value. But what you have is code, its the minimum, not optimal, and the code is old based upon cheap gas so do your own research. Optimal some say R 60 some say more. Im sure a laod calculation was done and you should have looked into projected heating costs, and they might be normal, depending on your design.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - well you could add a extra furnace for use only in extreme situations........ but the most efficent furnace is one that runs continiously on the coldest days |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
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Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 3, 8:48*am, Larry Caldwell
wrote: In article 62a14e8c-e9fe-4599-a1fb-a4dc2b105bd9 @e10g2000prf.googlegroups.com, (ATJaguarX) says... We recently purchased an brand new home in August and this is our first year in the house. *The house is much larger then my previous house (3200 sqft vs 2400 sqft) and I've noticed that the furnace runs much longer and much more often then my previous house. *Based on the specs of the builder, they put in R-11 batts in the ceiling with R-27 blow in "for tight insulation" and R-13 batts in the walls. In a cold area like yours, you should have thermal break insulation in the walls, and at least R-19. *R-38 in the attic is absolute minimum. * Your furnace should respond quicker if it's only 0 degrees. *It will probably be inadequate during really cold weather, which will sometimes reach -40. * You might think about paying for an energy audit. *It's pretty common for plumbers and electricians to rip up insulation and not replace it. * You may have some gaping holes in your envelope. *If you discover any, see if the home builder is a member of his association's home warranty program. *You may be able to get it fixed with minimal cost to you. * -- For email, replace firstnamelastinitial with my first name and last initial. I tried contacting my local gas company and they do not provide any type of energy audit (the CS rep didn't even know what I was talking about). How can you find these "gaping holes" in the envelope? |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 2, 9:30Â*pm, " wrote:
On Jan 2, 10:18�pm, ransley wrote: On Jan 2, 1:10�pm, ATJaguarX wrote: We recently purchased an brand new home in August and this is our first year in the house. �The house is much larger then my previous house (3200 sqft vs 2400 sqft) and I've noticed that the furnace runs much longer and much more often then my previous house. �Based on the specs of the builder, they put in R-11 batts in the ceiling with R-27 blow in "for tight insulation" and R-13 batts in the walls. Does this sound sufficient? �I'm not sure what the total R value would be for the ceiling (do you add the R-11 and R-27 to come up with R-38)? This past weekend, it was approx 0 degrees out. �I turned the furnace down to 62 before we left for a day trip. �When I returned, I set the furnace back to 68 (where I normally keep it) and it took approx 2.5 hours for the house to heat from 62 to 68. �This seems very excessive to me. It may all be normal, proper sizing of a furnace is that it runs nearly continously at the coldest day which is about -20f in chgo. 2.5 hrs is not much seeing all the furniture and walls you must heat that are now cold. Oversizing a furnace leads to short cycling and uncomfortable heat. is it a 2 stage unit, you might check that the second stage works. You have R38 , or at least you think you did, as nobody cheats, and blown in settles more than batt, Measure it yourself and calculate R value. But what you have is code, its the minimum, not optimal, and the code is old based upon cheap gas so do your own research. Optimal some say R 60 some say more. Im sure a laod calculation was done and you should have looked into projected heating costs, and they might be normal, depending on your design.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - well you could add a extra furnace for use only in extreme situations........ but the most efficent furnace is one that runs continiously on the coldest days- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I posted a comment like yours above ("but the most efficent furnace is one that runs continiously on the coldest days") and others laughed about that. My buddy is a construction super intendent for a big builder in the area and they sell houses that are similiar and size and he said that they usually have 2 furnaces in a house like mine. There is no doubt that I would love to have a seperate furnace for the 2nd floor. Another question... this same buddy says that they do one single duct run to the attic and then branch it off from there to the individual rooms with the registers on the ceilings (2nd floor). Mine has individual duct runs with individual dampers in the basement for each room on the 2nd floor. Which setup is better? I would assume individual runs would be better since its not going to a cold attic, but he thought my setup was strange. Adding a 2nd furnace will be more of a headache with my setup (I would assume). |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 3, 10:47Â*am, ATJaguarX wrote:
On Jan 2, 9:30Â*pm, " wrote: On Jan 2, 10:18�pm, ransley wrote: On Jan 2, 1:10�pm, ATJaguarX wrote: We recently purchased an brand new home in August and this is our first year in the house. �The house is much larger then my previous house (3200 sqft vs 2400 sqft) and I've noticed that the furnace runs much longer and much more often then my previous house. �Based on the specs of the builder, they put in R-11 batts in the ceiling with R-27 blow in "for tight insulation" and R-13 batts in the walls. Does this sound sufficient? �I'm not sure what the total R value would be for the ceiling (do you add the R-11 and R-27 to come up with R-38)? This past weekend, it was approx 0 degrees out. �I turned the furnace down to 62 before we left for a day trip. �When I returned, I set the furnace back to 68 (where I normally keep it) and it took approx 2.5 hours for the house to heat from 62 to 68. �This seems very excessive to me. It may all be normal, proper sizing of a furnace is that it runs nearly continously at the coldest day which is about -20f in chgo. 2.5 hrs is not much seeing all the furniture and walls you must heat that are now cold. Oversizing a furnace leads to short cycling and uncomfortable heat. is it a 2 stage unit, you might check that the second stage works. You have R38 , or at least you think you did, as nobody cheats, and blown in settles more than batt, Measure it yourself and calculate R value. But what you have is code, its the minimum, not optimal, and the code is old based upon cheap gas so do your own research. Optimal some say R 60 some say more. Im sure a laod calculation was done and you should have looked into projected heating costs, and they might be normal, depending on your design.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - well you could add a extra furnace for use only in extreme situations........ but the most efficent furnace is one that runs continiously on the coldest days- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I posted a comment like yours above ("but the most efficent furnace is one that runs continiously on the coldest days") and others laughed about that. My buddy is a construction super intendent for a big builder in the area and they sell houses that are similiar and size and he said that they usually have 2 furnaces in a house like mine. Â*There is no doubt that I would love to have a seperate furnace for the 2nd floor. Another question... this same buddy says that they do one single duct run to the attic and then branch it off from there to the individual rooms with the registers on the ceilings (2nd floor). Â*Mine has individual duct runs with individual dampers in the basement for each room on the 2nd floor. Â*Which setup is better? Â*I would assume individual runs would be better since its not going to a cold attic, but he thought my setup was strange. Â*Adding a 2nd furnace will be more of a headache with my setup (I would assume).- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - being a construction superindent means he is hopefully a expert at building stuff. he follows plans. he doesnt design building and probably isnt a HVAC expert either. Thoise 90%+ efficent furnaces are rated like that during continious operation. thats the coldest day of the year. on a 50 degree day in a area that typically sees zero degrees the 90+ furnace isnt near its top efficency. the basement feed furnace ducts are more efficent than top feed. with top feed the hot air must be pushed up all the way to the attic, and back down again to floor level. with basement feed hot air is still pushed, but natural convention hot air rises cold air falls helps a lot. more efficent less electric blower power needed, less ductwork needed. down feed is used for open floor plans and appearance but its less efficent the reason constant operation is more efficent? the furnace transmits all the heat it produces into the air. in a cycling situation much heat never gets moved to where you need it, on first heating things up before blower turns on, and afterward, when hotr heat exchanger is left to cool. have you noiticed high efficency furnaces tend to blow cooler air on start up? thats a attempt to minimize heat lost during start up... note the dual speed furnaces are another attempt to address these losses. the idea is in less than full heat needs run the furnace at less than full btus continiously, this minimizes losses |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 2, 1:10 pm, ATJaguarX wrote:
We recently purchased an brand new home in August and this is our first year in the house. The house is much larger then my previous house (3200 sqft vs 2400 sqft) and I've noticed that the furnace runs much longer and much more often then my previous house. Based on the specs of the builder, they put in R-11 batts in the ceiling with R-27 blow in "for tight insulation" and R-13 batts in the walls. Does this sound sufficient? I'm not sure what the total R value would be for the ceiling (do you add the R-11 and R-27 to come up with R-38)? This past weekend, it was approx 0 degrees out. I turned the furnace down to 62 before we left for a day trip. When I returned, I set the furnace back to 68 (where I normally keep it) and it took approx 2.5 hours for the house to heat from 62 to 68. This seems very excessive to me. It is true that for best efficiency, the furnace should be sized so that it is just able to keep up on the coldest days. An oversized furnace that cycles frequently will waste energy. Let people laugh if they want, they can laugh all the way to the bank (to get more money out to pay their gas bill). That being said, as you have noticed, a smaller furnace can take a long time to heat the house up; 2.5 hours seems like too long to wait for a standard thermostat set-back. The poster that asked about whether the second stage is working might be on to something; something for the HVAC guy to check out. Have the house nice and cold when he shows up. If you just want/need a bigger furnace you might be able to cut a deal with the builder on that. Chicago has weather records going back well over 100 years and the coldest it has ever been was -27 Fahrenheit. So if the system is good down to -20 or so that should suffice. Your insulation is the modern standard practice. Arguably there should be more but at this point it is hard to add it anywhere but the attic, where you could just have more blown in. There are lots of old houses in Chicagoland with NO insulation in the walls - at least you're better off than they are! -- H |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
Heathcliff wrote:
.... It is true that for best efficiency, the furnace should be sized so that it is just able to keep up on the coldest days. An oversized furnace that cycles frequently will waste energy. ... How, precisely, do you come to that conclusion? Given two otherwise comparative units, how does size alone affect efficiency? -- |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 3, 11:32*am, Heathcliff wrote:
On Jan 2, 1:10 pm, ATJaguarX wrote: We recently purchased an brand new home in August and this is our first year in the house. *The house is much larger then my previous house (3200 sqft vs 2400 sqft) and I've noticed that the furnace runs much longer and much more often then my previous house. *Based on the specs of the builder, they put in R-11 batts in the ceiling with R-27 blow in "for tight insulation" and R-13 batts in the walls. Does this sound sufficient? *I'm not sure what the total R value would be for the ceiling (do you add the R-11 and R-27 to come up with R-38)? This past weekend, it was approx 0 degrees out. *I turned the furnace down to 62 before we left for a day trip. *When I returned, I set the furnace back to 68 (where I normally keep it) and it took approx 2.5 hours for the house to heat from 62 to 68. *This seems very excessive to me. It is true that for best efficiency, the furnace should be sized so that it is just able to keep up on the coldest days. *An oversized furnace that cycles frequently will waste energy. Let people laugh if they want, they can laugh all the way to the bank (to get more money out to pay their gas bill). That being said, as you have noticed, a smaller furnace can take a long time to heat the house up; 2.5 hours seems like too long to wait for a standard thermostat set-back. *The poster that asked about whether the second stage is working might be on to something; something for the HVAC guy to check out. *Have the house nice and cold when he shows up. *If you just want/need a bigger furnace you might be able to cut a deal with the builder on that. Chicago has weather records going back well over 100 years and the coldest it has ever been was -27 Fahrenheit. *So if the system is good down to -20 or so that should suffice. Your insulation is the modern standard practice. *Arguably there should be more but at this point it is hard to add it anywhere but the attic, where you could just have more blown in. There are lots of old houses in Chicagoland with NO insulation in the walls - at least you're better off than they are! -- H- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Please excuse my ignorance, but I have heard 2 terms alot that I am not aware of: 1. The furnace's "second stage" 2. Standard thermostat "set-back" |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 3, 12:39*pm, ATJaguarX wrote:
On Jan 3, 11:32*am, Heathcliff wrote: On Jan 2, 1:10 pm, ATJaguarX wrote: We recently purchased an brand new home in August and this is our first year in the house. *The house is much larger then my previous house (3200 sqft vs 2400 sqft) and I've noticed that the furnace runs much longer and much more often then my previous house. *Based on the specs of the builder, they put in R-11 batts in the ceiling with R-27 blow in "for tight insulation" and R-13 batts in the walls. Does this sound sufficient? *I'm not sure what the total R value would be for the ceiling (do you add the R-11 and R-27 to come up with R-38)? This past weekend, it was approx 0 degrees out. *I turned the furnace down to 62 before we left for a day trip. *When I returned, I set the furnace back to 68 (where I normally keep it) and it took approx 2.5 hours for the house to heat from 62 to 68. *This seems very excessive to me. It is true that for best efficiency, the furnace should be sized so that it is just able to keep up on the coldest days. *An oversized furnace that cycles frequently will waste energy. Let people laugh if they want, they can laugh all the way to the bank (to get more money out to pay their gas bill). That being said, as you have noticed, a smaller furnace can take a long time to heat the house up; 2.5 hours seems like too long to wait for a standard thermostat set-back. *The poster that asked about whether the second stage is working might be on to something; something for the HVAC guy to check out. *Have the house nice and cold when he shows up. *If you just want/need a bigger furnace you might be able to cut a deal with the builder on that. Chicago has weather records going back well over 100 years and the coldest it has ever been was -27 Fahrenheit. *So if the system is good down to -20 or so that should suffice. Your insulation is the modern standard practice. *Arguably there should be more but at this point it is hard to add it anywhere but the attic, where you could just have more blown in. There are lots of old houses in Chicagoland with NO insulation in the walls - at least you're better off than they are! -- H- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Please excuse my ignorance, but I have heard 2 terms alot that I am not aware of: 1. *The furnace's "second stage" 2. *Standard thermostat "set-back"- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - It was near zero out, taking 2.5 hrs to raise temp 6 f is probably normal, Ive set back to 58 for a week and it might take 6-10 hrs to get warm. What type of furnace do you have, single stage 82% is cheapest, 92%+ dual stage VSDC is the most expensive. Dual stage has a low btu output for normal use and comfort and goes on high fire or full output when needed, my second stage goes on if I put the thermostat up 2 or 3 f. I dought you have a heating issue, most houses are wrongly oversized out of laziness by the installer to do a load calculation and make a bit more money selling a more expensive unit. I read another post you did at alt building, you should get the rated- guarnteed specs on your windows for Air Infiltration of your new windows. There I bet its installer error or defective windows, you should not feel air comming in new windows, and more insulation will help save you money. |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 3, 1:10*pm, ransley wrote:
On Jan 3, 12:39*pm, ATJaguarX wrote: On Jan 3, 11:32*am, Heathcliff wrote: On Jan 2, 1:10 pm, ATJaguarX wrote: We recently purchased an brand new home in August and this is our first year in the house. *The house is much larger then my previous house (3200 sqft vs 2400 sqft) and I've noticed that the furnace runs much longer and much more often then my previous house. *Based on the specs of the builder, they put in R-11 batts in the ceiling with R-27 blow in "for tight insulation" and R-13 batts in the walls. Does this sound sufficient? *I'm not sure what the total R value would be for the ceiling (do you add the R-11 and R-27 to come up with R-38)? This past weekend, it was approx 0 degrees out. *I turned the furnace down to 62 before we left for a day trip. *When I returned, I set the furnace back to 68 (where I normally keep it) and it took approx 2.5 hours for the house to heat from 62 to 68. *This seems very excessive to me. It is true that for best efficiency, the furnace should be sized so that it is just able to keep up on the coldest days. *An oversized furnace that cycles frequently will waste energy. Let people laugh if they want, they can laugh all the way to the bank (to get more money out to pay their gas bill). That being said, as you have noticed, a smaller furnace can take a long time to heat the house up; 2.5 hours seems like too long to wait for a standard thermostat set-back. *The poster that asked about whether the second stage is working might be on to something; something for the HVAC guy to check out. *Have the house nice and cold when he shows up. *If you just want/need a bigger furnace you might be able to cut a deal with the builder on that. Chicago has weather records going back well over 100 years and the coldest it has ever been was -27 Fahrenheit. *So if the system is good down to -20 or so that should suffice. Your insulation is the modern standard practice. *Arguably there should be more but at this point it is hard to add it anywhere but the attic, where you could just have more blown in. There are lots of old houses in Chicagoland with NO insulation in the walls - at least you're better off than they are! -- H- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Please excuse my ignorance, but I have heard 2 terms alot that I am not aware of: 1. *The furnace's "second stage" 2. *Standard thermostat "set-back"- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - It was near zero out, taking 2.5 hrs to raise temp 6 f is probably normal, Ive set back to 58 for a week and it might take 6-10 hrs to get warm. What type of furnace do you have, single stage 82% is cheapest, 92%+ dual stage VSDC is the most expensive. Dual stage has a low btu output for normal use and comfort and goes on high fire or full output when needed, my second stage goes on if I put the thermostat up 2 or 3 f. I dought you have a heating issue, most houses are wrongly oversized out of laziness by the installer to do a load calculation and make a bit more money selling a more expensive unit. I read another post you did at alt building, you should get the rated- guarnteed specs on your windows for Air Infiltration of your new windows. There I bet its installer error or defective windows, you should not feel air comming in new windows, and more insulation will help save you money.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks for you thoughts Mark (and everyone else). I know my furnace is 80% effeciency, but I'm not sure if I have a dual stage (I doubt it). I'm going to snag a few pics of the area of my window where I believe air is entering and post them tonight. I'm almost positive its the poor seal on the sides of the lower sash. |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
ATJaguarX wrote:
.... is 80% effeciency, but I'm not sure if I have a dual stage (I doubt it). I'm going to snag a few pics of the area of my window where I believe air is entering and post them tonight. I'm almost positive its the poor seal on the sides of the lower sash. What make/model? You can look its spec's up. Same for the windows--somebody already suggested looking up infiltration data for them. -- |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 3, 1:39*pm, dpb wrote:
ATJaguarX wrote: ... is 80% effeciency, but I'm not sure if I have a dual stage (I doubt it). *I'm going to snag a few pics of the area of my window where I believe air is entering and post them tonight. *I'm almost positive its the poor seal on the sides of the lower sash. What make/model? *You can look its spec's up. *Same for the windows--somebody already suggested looking up infiltration data for them. -- The make of the furnace is York and the windows are by SilverLine. I'm not sure of the models. I'm not sure where I can find any other information on the model. I'm still waiting for the builder to get back to me on what series of windows are installed. I have the builder coming out tomorrow. Any specific questions I should ask? What model of windows and furnace I have? Would he know the infiltration data or is that something I can find out with the model/ series # of the windows? |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 3, 11:33 am, dpb wrote:
Heathcliff wrote: ... It is true that for best efficiency, the furnace should be sized so that it is just able to keep up on the coldest days. An oversized furnace that cycles frequently will waste energy. ... How, precisely, do you come to that conclusion? Given two otherwise comparative units, how does size alone affect efficiency? -- Fair enough, here are some references: http://www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/publicati.../03-109-e.html (canada mortgage and housing corporation technical bulletin) http://www.alpinehomeair.com/Furnace-choosingsize.cfm (home heating supply co.) and it's not just efficiency, but also early failure of the unit is a possibility. -- H |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 3, 1:20*pm, ATJaguarX wrote:
On Jan 3, 1:10*pm, ransley wrote: On Jan 3, 12:39*pm, ATJaguarX wrote: On Jan 3, 11:32*am, Heathcliff wrote: On Jan 2, 1:10 pm, ATJaguarX wrote: We recently purchased an brand new home in August and this is our first year in the house. *The house is much larger then my previous house (3200 sqft vs 2400 sqft) and I've noticed that the furnace runs much longer and much more often then my previous house. *Based on the specs of the builder, they put in R-11 batts in the ceiling with R-27 blow in "for tight insulation" and R-13 batts in the walls. Does this sound sufficient? *I'm not sure what the total R value would be for the ceiling (do you add the R-11 and R-27 to come up with R-38)? This past weekend, it was approx 0 degrees out. *I turned the furnace down to 62 before we left for a day trip. *When I returned, I set the furnace back to 68 (where I normally keep it) and it took approx 2..5 hours for the house to heat from 62 to 68. *This seems very excessive to me. It is true that for best efficiency, the furnace should be sized so that it is just able to keep up on the coldest days. *An oversized furnace that cycles frequently will waste energy. Let people laugh if they want, they can laugh all the way to the bank (to get more money out to pay their gas bill). That being said, as you have noticed, a smaller furnace can take a long time to heat the house up; 2.5 hours seems like too long to wait for a standard thermostat set-back. *The poster that asked about whether the second stage is working might be on to something; something for the HVAC guy to check out. *Have the house nice and cold when he shows up. *If you just want/need a bigger furnace you might be able to cut a deal with the builder on that. Chicago has weather records going back well over 100 years and the coldest it has ever been was -27 Fahrenheit. *So if the system is good down to -20 or so that should suffice. Your insulation is the modern standard practice. *Arguably there should be more but at this point it is hard to add it anywhere but the attic, where you could just have more blown in. There are lots of old houses in Chicagoland with NO insulation in the walls - at least you're better off than they are! -- H- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Please excuse my ignorance, but I have heard 2 terms alot that I am not aware of: 1. *The furnace's "second stage" 2. *Standard thermostat "set-back"- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - It was near zero out, taking 2.5 hrs to raise temp 6 f is probably normal, Ive set back to 58 for a week and it might take 6-10 hrs to get warm. What type of furnace do you have, single stage 82% is cheapest, 92%+ dual stage VSDC is the most expensive. Dual stage has a low btu output for normal use and comfort and goes on high fire or full output when needed, my second stage goes on if I put the thermostat up 2 or 3 f. I dought you have a heating issue, most houses are wrongly oversized out of laziness by the installer to do a load calculation and make a bit more money selling a more expensive unit. I read another post you did at alt building, you should get the rated- guarnteed specs on your windows for Air Infiltration of your new windows. There I bet its installer error or defective windows, you should not feel air comming in new windows, and more insulation will help save you money.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks for you thoughts Mark (and everyone else). *I know my furnace is 80% effeciency, but I'm not sure if I have a dual stage (I doubt it). *I'm going to snag a few pics of the area of my window where I believe air is entering and post them tonight. *I'm almost positive its the poor seal on the sides of the lower sash.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - The SilverLine windows are double hung windows. I pulled open the lower sash last night and noticed that there is only a small piece of "fuzzy" felt like material that seals the lower sash on the sides when closed. I believe, on windy days, the wind makes it way through this "fuzzy" felt and into the weight chambers and up and into the room. I wonder if I should install better weather stripping on the windows myself. |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 3, 3:00*pm, Heathcliff wrote:
On Jan 3, 11:33 am, dpb wrote: Heathcliff wrote: ... It is true that for best efficiency, the furnace should be sized so that it is just able to keep up on the coldest days. *An oversized furnace that cycles frequently will waste energy. ... How, precisely, do you come to that conclusion? *Given two otherwise comparative units, how does size alone affect efficiency? -- Fair enough, here are some references: http://www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/publicati.../03-109-e.html (canada mortgage and housing corporation technical bulletin) http://www.alpinehomeair.com/Furnace...gsize.cfm(home heating supply co.) and it's not just efficiency, but also early failure of the unit is a possibility. -- H I can understand the oversized furnace issue. What I don't understand is why my furnace will shut off and fire back up 10 mins later when I have my thermostat set to 69 degrees. I would think that the furnace should be able to stay off for longer then that. I've noticed that the thermostat never drops a single degree before it kicks the furnace back on again. Is there something internal on the thermostat that measures fractions of a degree? |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 3, 3:16*pm, ATJaguarX wrote:
On Jan 3, 1:20*pm, ATJaguarX wrote: On Jan 3, 1:10*pm, ransley wrote: On Jan 3, 12:39*pm, ATJaguarX wrote: On Jan 3, 11:32*am, Heathcliff wrote: On Jan 2, 1:10 pm, ATJaguarX wrote: We recently purchased an brand new home in August and this is our first year in the house. *The house is much larger then my previous house (3200 sqft vs 2400 sqft) and I've noticed that the furnace runs much longer and much more often then my previous house. *Based on the specs of the builder, they put in R-11 batts in the ceiling with R-27 blow in "for tight insulation" and R-13 batts in the walls. Does this sound sufficient? *I'm not sure what the total R value would be for the ceiling (do you add the R-11 and R-27 to come up with R-38)? This past weekend, it was approx 0 degrees out. *I turned the furnace down to 62 before we left for a day trip. *When I returned, I set the furnace back to 68 (where I normally keep it) and it took approx 2.5 hours for the house to heat from 62 to 68. *This seems very excessive to me. It is true that for best efficiency, the furnace should be sized so that it is just able to keep up on the coldest days. *An oversized furnace that cycles frequently will waste energy. Let people laugh if they want, they can laugh all the way to the bank (to get more money out to pay their gas bill). That being said, as you have noticed, a smaller furnace can take a long time to heat the house up; 2.5 hours seems like too long to wait for a standard thermostat set-back. *The poster that asked about whether the second stage is working might be on to something; something for the HVAC guy to check out. *Have the house nice and cold when he shows up. *If you just want/need a bigger furnace you might be able to cut a deal with the builder on that. Chicago has weather records going back well over 100 years and the coldest it has ever been was -27 Fahrenheit. *So if the system is good down to -20 or so that should suffice. Your insulation is the modern standard practice. *Arguably there should be more but at this point it is hard to add it anywhere but the attic, where you could just have more blown in. There are lots of old houses in Chicagoland with NO insulation in the walls - at least you're better off than they are! -- H- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Please excuse my ignorance, but I have heard 2 terms alot that I am not aware of: 1. *The furnace's "second stage" 2. *Standard thermostat "set-back"- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - It was near zero out, taking 2.5 hrs to raise temp 6 f is probably normal, Ive set back to 58 for a week and it might take 6-10 hrs to get warm. What type of furnace do you have, single stage 82% is cheapest, 92%+ dual stage VSDC is the most expensive. Dual stage has a low btu output for normal use and comfort and goes on high fire or full output when needed, my second stage goes on if I put the thermostat up 2 or 3 f. I dought you have a heating issue, most houses are wrongly oversized out of laziness by the installer to do a load calculation and make a bit more money selling a more expensive unit. I read another post you did at alt building, you should get the rated- guarnteed specs on your windows for Air Infiltration of your new windows. There I bet its installer error or defective windows, you should not feel air comming in new windows, and more insulation will help save you money.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks for you thoughts Mark (and everyone else). *I know my furnace is 80% effeciency, but I'm not sure if I have a dual stage (I doubt it). *I'm going to snag a few pics of the area of my window where I believe air is entering and post them tonight. *I'm almost positive its the poor seal on the sides of the lower sash.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - The SilverLine windows are double hung windows. *I pulled open the lower sash last night and noticed that there is only a small piece of "fuzzy" felt like material that seals the lower sash on the sides when closed. *I believe, on windy days, the wind makes it way through this "fuzzy" felt and into the weight chambers and up and into the room. I wonder if I should install better weather stripping on the windows myself.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Here are a few pictures of the silverline windows i have installed: http://www.flickr.com/photos/5444636...7603627066227/ |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 3, 3:00*pm, Heathcliff wrote:
On Jan 3, 11:33 am, dpb wrote: Heathcliff wrote: ... It is true that for best efficiency, the furnace should be sized so that it is just able to keep up on the coldest days. *An oversized furnace that cycles frequently will waste energy. ... How, precisely, do you come to that conclusion? *Given two otherwise comparative units, how does size alone affect efficiency? -- Fair enough, here are some references: http://www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/publicati.../03-109-e.html (canada mortgage and housing corporation technical bulletin) http://www.alpinehomeair.com/Furnace...gsize.cfm(home heating supply co.) and it's not just efficiency, but also early failure of the unit is a possibility. -- H Here is a hint for instalation quality. 1st if any window is out more than 1/8" in plumb, - level or square it is not even in warranty now or ever was , because of defective installation.... Second get manufacturers guarnteed ratings for CDF, Air infiltration, U Value, R value, and do some looking. Im in Chcgo area and it sounds like you got all of the cheapest stuff not rated "Energy Star" Unforatuly only an uninformed puts in an 80% efficient furnace in Chicago in 2007. |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
Heathcliff wrote:
On Jan 3, 11:33 am, dpb wrote: Heathcliff wrote: ... It is true that for best efficiency, the furnace should be sized so that it is just able to keep up on the coldest days. An oversized furnace that cycles frequently will waste energy. ... How, precisely, do you come to that conclusion? Given two otherwise comparative units, how does size alone affect efficiency? -- Fair enough, here are some references: http://www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/publicati.../03-109-e.html (canada mortgage and housing corporation technical bulletin) From which I find... "There is no good data showing whether these higher efficiency furnaces do save energy as a result of being properly sized" -- |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
ATJaguarX wrote:
.... I can understand the oversized furnace issue. Well, the first reference concludes that their research to determine the effect of sizing on efficiency wasn't so successful -- see earlier quote. I also doubt unless it were _grossly_ wrong that the cycling off a few times per hour could be measured in reduced longevity vis a vis the more continual operation. What I don't understand is why my furnace will shut off and fire back up 10 mins later when I have my thermostat set to 69 degrees. I would think that the furnace should be able to stay off for longer then that. I've noticed that the thermostat never drops a single degree before it kicks the furnace back on again. Is there something internal on the thermostat that measures fractions of a degree? Possibly could be an excessively sensitive thermostat or perhaps there's a breeze blowing by it that it's sensing on the switching element or something similar. It may also have a sensitivity adjustment, particularly if it is digital, not analog. -- |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 3, 3:00*pm, Heathcliff wrote:
On Jan 3, 11:33 am, dpb wrote: Heathcliff wrote: ... It is true that for best efficiency, the furnace should be sized so that it is just able to keep up on the coldest days. *An oversized furnace that cycles frequently will waste energy. ... How, precisely, do you come to that conclusion? *Given two otherwise comparative units, how does size alone affect efficiency? -- Fair enough, here are some references: http://www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/publicati.../03-109-e.html (canada mortgage and housing corporation technical bulletin) http://www.alpinehomeair.com/Furnace...gsize.cfm(home heating supply co.) and it's not just efficiency, but also early failure of the unit is a possibility. -- H An oversized furnace cycles more and at moderate temps may rarely get to be near rated efficency, [ why anyone is even allowed to use or sell an 80% unit in Chicago is dumb, but im stupid] Get window info online and warranty. Get furnace date online. Measure attic insulation depth youself. Measure windows for Plumb -level - square yourself and dont tell him, it could be an install issue. Check out warranty yourself by calling the window co. Did you know England does not allow non condensing units even though temps dont get much below freezing. Thank your EPA and George W Bush for this stupidity. So think for maybe 500 more, or a few hundred if only condensing units were sold you Would be saving 11-16% a month , depending on what model you chose, at 200-300 im guessing 15% is alot.. |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 3, 5:57*pm, dpb wrote:
Heathcliff wrote: On Jan 3, 11:33 am, dpb wrote: Heathcliff wrote: ... It is true that for best efficiency, the furnace should be sized so that it is just able to keep up on the coldest days. *An oversized furnace that cycles frequently will waste energy. ... How, precisely, do you come to that conclusion? *Given two otherwise comparative units, how does size alone affect efficiency? -- Fair enough, here are some references: http://www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/publicati.../03-109-e.html (canada mortgage and housing corporation technical bulletin) *From which I find... "There is no good data showing whether these higher efficiency furnaces do save energy as a result of being properly sized" --- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - dbp, any condensing furnace will save the near rated amount over a noncondensing unit. or a 95% unit will save 15% over a 80% given the same environment. |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
ransley wrote:
On Jan 3, 5:57 pm, dpb wrote: Heathcliff wrote: On Jan 3, 11:33 am, dpb wrote: Heathcliff wrote: ... It is true that for best efficiency, the furnace should be sized so that it is just able to keep up on the coldest days. An oversized furnace that cycles frequently will waste energy. ... How, precisely, do you come to that conclusion? Given two otherwise comparative units, how does size alone affect efficiency? -- Fair enough, here are some references: http://www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/publicati.../03-109-e.html (canada mortgage and housing corporation technical bulletin) From which I find... "There is no good data showing whether these higher efficiency furnaces do save energy as a result of being properly sized" dbp, any condensing furnace will save the near rated amount over a noncondensing unit. or a 95% unit will save 15% over a 80% given the same environment. Doh! That's not the question -- the question is how two units of the _SAME_ efficiency have any significant savings based solely on sizing. As the conclusion of the above report states, they couldn't show a measurable effect. -- |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 3, 6:28*pm, ransley wrote:
On Jan 3, 3:00*pm, Heathcliff wrote: On Jan 3, 11:33 am, dpb wrote: Heathcliff wrote: ... It is true that for best efficiency, the furnace should be sized so that it is just able to keep up on the coldest days. *An oversized furnace that cycles frequently will waste energy. ... How, precisely, do you come to that conclusion? *Given two otherwise comparative units, how does size alone affect efficiency? -- Fair enough, here are some references: http://www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/publicati.../03-109-e.html (canada mortgage and housing corporation technical bulletin) http://www.alpinehomeair.com/Furnace...fm(homeheating supply co.) and it's not just efficiency, but also early failure of the unit is a possibility. -- H An oversized furnace cycles more and at moderate temps may rarely get to be near rated efficency, [ why anyone is even allowed to use or sell an 80% unit in Chicago is dumb, but im stupid] *Get window info online and warranty. Get furnace date online. Measure attic insulation depth youself. Measure windows for Plumb -level - square yourself and dont tell him, it could be an install issue. Check out warranty yourself by calling the window co. *Did you know England does not allow non condensing units even though temps dont get much below freezing. Thank your EPA and George W Bush for this stupidity. So think for maybe 500 more, or a few hundred if only condensing units were sold you Would be saving 11-16% a month , depending on what model you chose, at 200-300 im guessing 15% is alot..- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Why would the builder not want to have these issues fixed? The company that installed the windows are responsible for their worksmanship. If the window is out of plumb, level or square, the installers should come back out and fix it and he shouldn't be out anything... at the least he is gaining a happy customer... or am I wrong? |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 3, 5:29*pm, ransley wrote:
On Jan 3, 3:00*pm, Heathcliff wrote: On Jan 3, 11:33 am, dpb wrote: Heathcliff wrote: ... It is true that for best efficiency, the furnace should be sized so that it is just able to keep up on the coldest days. *An oversized furnace that cycles frequently will waste energy. ... How, precisely, do you come to that conclusion? *Given two otherwise comparative units, how does size alone affect efficiency? -- Fair enough, here are some references: http://www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/publicati.../03-109-e.html (canada mortgage and housing corporation technical bulletin) http://www.alpinehomeair.com/Furnace...fm(homeheating supply co.) and it's not just efficiency, but also early failure of the unit is a possibility. -- H Here is a hint for instalation quality. 1st if any window is out more than 1/8" in plumb, - level or square it is not even in warranty now or ever was , because of defective installation.... Second get manufacturers guarnteed ratings for CDF, Air infiltration, U Value, R value, and do some looking. *Im in Chcgo area and it sounds like you got all of the cheapest stuff *not *rated "Energy Star" Unforatuly only an uninformed puts in an 80% efficient furnace in Chicago in 2007.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - How do I check for plumb, level or square? |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 3, 6:01*pm, dpb wrote:
ATJaguarX wrote: ... I can understand the oversized furnace issue. * Well, the first reference concludes that their research to determine the effect of sizing on efficiency wasn't so successful -- see earlier quote. *I also doubt unless it were _grossly_ wrong that the cycling off a few times per hour could be measured in reduced longevity vis a vis the more continual operation. What I don't understand is why my furnace will shut off and fire back up 10 mins later when I have my thermostat set to 69 degrees. *I would think that the furnace should be able to stay off for longer then that. *I've noticed that the thermostat never drops a single degree before it kicks the furnace back on again. *Is there something internal on the thermostat that measures fractions of a degree? Possibly could be an excessively sensitive thermostat or perhaps there's a breeze blowing by it that it's sensing on the switching element or something similar. *It may also have a sensitivity adjustment, particularly if it is digital, not analog. -- I've gone through the installation manual and there is an option to set the cycles per hour, but nothing about sensitivity. |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 3, 8:49*pm, ATJaguarX wrote:
On Jan 3, 6:01*pm, dpb wrote: ATJaguarX wrote: ... I can understand the oversized furnace issue. * Well, the first reference concludes that their research to determine the effect of sizing on efficiency wasn't so successful -- see earlier quote. *I also doubt unless it were _grossly_ wrong that the cycling off a few times per hour could be measured in reduced longevity vis a vis the more continual operation. What I don't understand is why my furnace will shut off and fire back up 10 mins later when I have my thermostat set to 69 degrees. *I would think that the furnace should be able to stay off for longer then that. *I've noticed that the thermostat never drops a single degree before it kicks the furnace back on again. *Is there something internal on the thermostat that measures fractions of a degree? Possibly could be an excessively sensitive thermostat or perhaps there's a breeze blowing by it that it's sensing on the switching element or something similar. *It may also have a sensitivity adjustment, particularly if it is digital, not analog. -- I've gone through the installation manual and there is an option to set the cycles per hour, but nothing about sensitivity.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - There must be a setting for degree setback . On my Lux it has 1- 10 , I have it set I think at 3 or 4 and it is not degrees, but it is not at this location so I dont know . Modern thermostasts have this option, read your non understandable, illogical, Chinese manual that came with it..Or just set setback up 1 number and experement. |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 3, 10:50*pm, ransley wrote:
On Jan 3, 8:49*pm, ATJaguarX wrote: On Jan 3, 6:01*pm, dpb wrote: ATJaguarX wrote: ... I can understand the oversized furnace issue. * Well, the first reference concludes that their research to determine the effect of sizing on efficiency wasn't so successful -- see earlier quote. *I also doubt unless it were _grossly_ wrong that the cycling off a few times per hour could be measured in reduced longevity vis a vis the more continual operation. What I don't understand is why my furnace will shut off and fire back up 10 mins later when I have my thermostat set to 69 degrees. *I would think that the furnace should be able to stay off for longer then that. *I've noticed that the thermostat never drops a single degree before it kicks the furnace back on again. *Is there something internal on the thermostat that measures fractions of a degree? Possibly could be an excessively sensitive thermostat or perhaps there's a breeze blowing by it that it's sensing on the switching element or something similar. *It may also have a sensitivity adjustment, particularly if it is digital, not analog. -- I've gone through the installation manual and there is an option to set the cycles per hour, but nothing about sensitivity.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - There must be a setting for degree setback . On my Lux it has 1- 10 , I have it set I think at 3 or 4 and it is not degrees, but it is not at this location so I dont know . Modern thermostasts have this option, read your non understandable, illogical, *Chinese manual that came with it..Or just set setback up 1 number and experement.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Another cold night of drafty windows. Winds were blowing from the south and the rooms on the south side of the house experienced a temp of 66 while the thermostat was at 69. |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 4, 9:56�am, ATJaguarX wrote:
On Jan 3, 10:50�pm, ransley wrote: On Jan 3, 8:49�pm, ATJaguarX wrote: On Jan 3, 6:01�pm, dpb wrote: ATJaguarX wrote: ... I can understand the oversized furnace issue. � Well, the first reference concludes that their research to determine the effect of sizing on efficiency wasn't so successful -- see earlier quote. �I also doubt unless it were _grossly_ wrong that the cycling off a few times per hour could be measured in reduced longevity vis a vis the more continual operation. What I don't understand is why my furnace will shut off and fire back up 10 mins later when I have my thermostat set to 69 degrees. �I would think that the furnace should be able to stay off for longer then that. �I've noticed that the thermostat never drops a single degree before it kicks the furnace back on again. �Is there something internal on the thermostat that measures fractions of a degree? Possibly could be an excessively sensitive thermostat or perhaps there's a breeze blowing by it that it's sensing on the switching element or something similar. �It may also have a sensitivity adjustment, particularly if it is digital, not analog. -- I've gone through the installation manual and there is an option to set the cycles per hour, but nothing about sensitivity.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - There must be a setting for degree setback . On my Lux it has 1- 10 , I have it set I think at 3 or 4 and it is not degrees, but it is not at this location so I dont know . Modern thermostasts have this option, read your non understandable, illogical, �Chinese manual that came with it..Or just set setback up 1 number and experement.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Another cold night of drafty windows. �Winds were blowing from the south and the rooms on the south side of the house experienced a temp of 66 while the thermostat was at 69.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - thats about normal, for most homes... can be elminated with a variable speed furnace where the bolwer always runs moving air around house helping to keep temperatures uniform. |
Proper insulation for the Chicagoland area?
On Jan 4, 8:56*am, ATJaguarX wrote:
On Jan 3, 10:50*pm, ransley wrote: On Jan 3, 8:49*pm, ATJaguarX wrote: On Jan 3, 6:01*pm, dpb wrote: ATJaguarX wrote: ... I can understand the oversized furnace issue. * Well, the first reference concludes that their research to determine the effect of sizing on efficiency wasn't so successful -- see earlier quote. *I also doubt unless it were _grossly_ wrong that the cycling off a few times per hour could be measured in reduced longevity vis a vis the more continual operation. What I don't understand is why my furnace will shut off and fire back up 10 mins later when I have my thermostat set to 69 degrees. *I would think that the furnace should be able to stay off for longer then that. *I've noticed that the thermostat never drops a single degree before it kicks the furnace back on again. *Is there something internal on the thermostat that measures fractions of a degree? Possibly could be an excessively sensitive thermostat or perhaps there's a breeze blowing by it that it's sensing on the switching element or something similar. *It may also have a sensitivity adjustment, particularly if it is digital, not analog. -- I've gone through the installation manual and there is an option to set the cycles per hour, but nothing about sensitivity.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - There must be a setting for degree setback . On my Lux it has 1- 10 , I have it set I think at 3 or 4 and it is not degrees, but it is not at this location so I dont know . Modern thermostasts have this option, read your non understandable, illogical, *Chinese manual that came with it..Or just set setback up 1 number and experement.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Another cold night of drafty windows. *Winds were blowing from the south and the rooms on the south side of the house experienced a temp of 66 while the thermostat was at 69.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - If you are lucky those were Energy Star rated windows and your complaint will be easily fixed because to get that rating they must be the best, but I dought any new modern windows today is designed that poorly so that you can actualy feel a leak, When my Pella leaked Pella came out for free and fixed it, it was only 2 months old. Did you find an air infiltration rating for them from the co that made them. |
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