I am repairing an old (1960's ?) vinyl strap patio chair. The chair is made
of solid tube aluminum 5/8 inch thick. The aluminum has a 1/4 inch slot cut
into it where the vinyl strap is inserted. The original strap had small
rectangular aluminum tabs that were crimped over each end. When I crimp an
old tab onto the new vinyl strap, the end is difficult to insert into the
slot. I can get it on the first end ok using pliers, but the second end is
very difficult since I can only get to one side, due to the wrap of the
strap. Is there a special tool or trick I need to know about?

Thanks

Frank Hayes

"Frank Hayes" wrote in message
news:2lUCi.1031$h06.335@trnddc03...
I am repairing an old (1960's ?) vinyl strap patio chair. The chair is
made of solid tube aluminum 5/8 inch thick. The aluminum has a 1/4 inch
slot cut into it where the vinyl strap is inserted. The original strap had
small rectangular aluminum tabs that were crimped over each end. When I
crimp an old tab onto the new vinyl strap, the end is difficult to insert
into the slot. I can get it on the first end ok using pliers, but the
second end is very difficult since I can only get to one side, due to the
wrap of the strap. Is there a special tool or trick I need to know about?

Thanks

Frank Hayes

Better tubing than the old poly webbing. (My grandpa used to work for Arvin,
which made that kind back in 50s and early sixties. He'd drag the rejects
and webbing roll ends home- we sat on that junk till the 70's.) Only trick I
know is to leave the tubing sitting out in the sun, till it is almost too
hot too handle, before you lace up the chair. It is a lot stretchier then.
You can pull the other tubes that are blocking access to the side till you
get the end seated, and then push them back in place.

aem sends...

The length is not the problem, it is the thickness of the strap and tab vs
the width of the slot.

Frank

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 03 Sep 2007 13:53:02 GMT, "Frank Hayes"
wrote:

I am repairing an old (1960's ?) vinyl strap patio chair. The chair is
made
of solid tube aluminum 5/8 inch thick. The aluminum has a 1/4 inch slot
cut
into it where the vinyl strap is inserted. The original strap had small
rectangular aluminum tabs that were crimped over each end. When I crimp
an
old tab onto the new vinyl strap, the end is difficult to insert into the
slot. I can get it on the first end ok using pliers, but the second end
is
very difficult since I can only get to one side, due to the wrap of the
strap. Is there a special tool or trick I need to know about?

Thanks

Frank Hayes



Did you heat the strapin boiling water? These things shrink when they
cool. You want about 20% stretch when hot then you can work it in the
slot and let it shrink up to tension the strap.

I am repairing an old (1960's ?) vinyl strap patio chair. The chair is
made
of solid tube aluminum 5/8 inch thick. The aluminum has a 1/4 inch slot
cut
into it where the vinyl strap is inserted. The original strap had small
rectangular aluminum tabs that were crimped over each end. When I crimp
an
old tab onto the new vinyl strap, the end is difficult to insert into the
slot. I can get it on the first end ok using pliers, but the second end
is
very difficult since I can only get to one side, due to the wrap of the
strap. Is there a special tool or trick I need to know about?

Thanks

Frank Hayes

There are several really good websites that sell vinyl strapping and include "how-to" instructions-some with video. I just recently strapped chairs that originally had a wicker-type weave instead of straps, and it worked out great. I followed their instructions, drilled holes, and basically did the job from scratch. They also sell adapters for slotted chairs, if you don't want to drill them. And, yes, boiling water is a key part of the process, whether you use clips or pegs.