Carpenters have suggested t1-11, James Hardie panels and pine plybead
panels which are 4x8 sheets, about a quarter inch thick, with the look
of bead board. Tongue and groove is too expensive, so I have to go
with something that won't look as good. All are OK looking as far as
I'm concerned, so my decision will be based on which will perform best
in a porch ceiling application.

Porch is L shaped with one section 5 feet deep 16 feet wide, which
will have the sheets of whatever is used running parallel to 5 foot
"dummy" 16 inch OC joists, which are for appearance only, not
structural. Should nailer boards be inserted between the "joists" to
provid perpendicular surfaces to nail to, or will the 16 inch
intervals be sufficient for sections that will only be 5 feet long?

wrote in message
oups.com...
Carpenters have suggested t1-11, James Hardie panels and pine plybead
panels which are 4x8 sheets, about a quarter inch thick, with the look
of bead board. Tongue and groove is too expensive, so I have to go
with something that won't look as good. All are OK looking as far as
I'm concerned, so my decision will be based on which will perform best
in a porch ceiling application.

Porch is L shaped with one section 5 feet deep 16 feet wide, which
will have the sheets of whatever is used running parallel to 5 foot
"dummy" 16 inch OC joists, which are for appearance only, not
structural. Should nailer boards be inserted between the "joists" to
provid perpendicular surfaces to nail to, or will the 16 inch
intervals be sufficient for sections that will only be 5 feet long?

Why do you want to cover it? IMHO, open-frame is best in that application-
no dead spaces to hide leaks and rot, or provide housing for animals.
Promotes a cooler porch, since no super-heated dead space to act as a
radiator till midnight. And you can even hang an electric fan, if there is
enough headroom.

aem sends...

On Aug 6, 9:07 pm, wrote:
Carpenters have suggested t1-11, James Hardie panels and pine plybead
panels which are 4x8 sheets, about a quarter inch thick, with the look
of bead board. Tongue and groove is too expensive, so I have to go
with something that won't look as good. All are OK looking as far as
I'm concerned, so my decision will be based on which will perform best
in a porch ceiling application.

Porch is L shaped with one section 5 feet deep 16 feet wide, which
will have the sheets of whatever is used running parallel to 5 foot
"dummy" 16 inch OC joists, which are for appearance only, not
structural. Should nailer boards be inserted between the "joists" to
provid perpendicular surfaces to nail to, or will the 16 inch
intervals be sufficient for sections that will only be 5 feet long?

The 16 inch centers should be fine for whatever you use. Something
slightly cheaper than t and g... I've used just plain cedar 1x6 or 1x8
boards with the rough hewn side showing, there will be gaps but it's
all part of the look. Cedar wont rot (easily) and bugs hate it.

I'm presuming you dont want it open because of those joists, so just
pull off the joists and leave it open, rent a sprayer and stain it
with a latex stain.

On Aug 6, 9:07?pm, wrote:
Carpenters have suggested t1-11, James Hardie panels and pine plybead
panels which are 4x8 sheets, about a quarter inch thick, with the look
of bead board. Tongue and groove is too expensive, so I have to go
with something that won't look as good. All are OK looking as far as
I'm concerned, so my decision will be based on which will perform best
in a porch ceiling application.

Porch is L shaped with one section 5 feet deep 16 feet wide, which
will have the sheets of whatever is used running parallel to 5 foot
"dummy" 16 inch OC joists, which are for appearance only, not
structural. Should nailer boards be inserted between the "joists" to
provid perpendicular surfaces to nail to, or will the 16 inch
intervals be sufficient for sections that will only be 5 feet long?

I like the idea of keeping it open, but to make it look a little more
formal, I used tongue and groove on the porch at my old house. It was
much smaller, but I like the appearance. I put soffit vent in as
well, to provide air circulation. I am currently debating what kind
of soffit to use on my new house.

If it goes well with the look of the house, vinyl or aluminum soffit panels are
fine. They are available solid or perforated. Here is a view of the corner of
my porch, it doesn't show a lot, but you can get the idea.

http://home.wideopenwest.com/~dthomp...use-corner.jpg


--
Dennis

On Mon, 06 Aug 2007 19:07:22 -0700, wrote:

Carpenters have suggested t1-11, James Hardie panels and pine plybead
panels which are 4x8 sheets, about a quarter inch thick, with the look
of bead board. Tongue and groove is too expensive, so I have to go
with something that won't look as good. All are OK looking as far as
I'm concerned, so my decision will be based on which will perform best
in a porch ceiling application.

Porch is L shaped with one section 5 feet deep 16 feet wide, which
will have the sheets of whatever is used running parallel to 5 foot
"dummy" 16 inch OC joists, which are for appearance only, not
structural. Should nailer boards be inserted between the "joists" to
provid perpendicular surfaces to nail to, or will the 16 inch
intervals be sufficient for sections that will only be 5 feet long?


I like the answer of the other poster; don't cover it at all, best
ventilation, less chance of mildew/mold, varmints.