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#1
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#6 or #4 wire in 3/4 inch thinwall?
I need to add a sub-panel about 40 feet away from my main panel. The
previous owner left an empty 3/4 inch run of conduit in case anyone wanted to add a sub-panel to the other side of the house (for an addition) (conduit runs interior sub-panel will be interior). Now is the time for that addition. I would like to run #6 wire to the sub panel because one of the new branch circuits will have a 30 amp steam unit for the bath. Ideally I'd like to run #4 wire even if I can. The 40 foot run only has one 90 degree bend right at the main panel and I could put a large pull box at the other end prior to bending into the sub panel with any size pipe I want. Can I get three #4's in 3/4 inch thinwall or must I use #6? My intention was to undersize the feed breaker in the main panel to accomodate whatever wire I can get into this pipe. |
#2
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#6 or #4 wire in 3/4 inch thinwall?
RickH wrote:
I need to add a sub-panel about 40 feet away from my main panel. The previous owner left an empty 3/4 inch run of conduit in case anyone wanted to add a sub-panel to the other side of the house (for an addition) (conduit runs interior sub-panel will be interior). Now is the time for that addition. I would like to run #6 wire to the sub panel because one of the new branch circuits will have a 30 amp steam unit for the bath. Ideally I'd like to run #4 wire even if I can. The 40 foot run only has one 90 degree bend right at the main panel and I could put a large pull box at the other end prior to bending into the sub panel with any size pipe I want. Can I get three #4's in 3/4 inch thinwall or must I use #6? My intention was to undersize the feed breaker in the main panel to accomodate whatever wire I can get into this pipe. Must use #6 (THHN); 3/4 won't accept #4. 4 #6 allowed. I would pull 3 #6 plus 1 #8 (or #10) Grn Equip Ground. 60 Amp breaker. (Technically, could be a 70) With the steam unit (Line-to-Line), it might be possible to use a reduced Neutral size for the feeder, but that may be making things too complicated... Jim |
#3
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#6 or #4 wire in 3/4 inch thinwall?
On Aug 6, 1:34 pm, Speedy Jim wrote:
RickH wrote: I need to add a sub-panel about 40 feet away from my main panel. The previous owner left an empty 3/4 inch run of conduit in case anyone wanted to add a sub-panel to the other side of the house (for an addition) (conduit runs interior sub-panel will be interior). Now is the time for that addition. I would like to run #6 wire to the sub panel because one of the new branch circuits will have a 30 amp steam unit for the bath. Ideally I'd like to run #4 wire even if I can. The 40 foot run only has one 90 degree bend right at the main panel and I could put a large pull box at the other end prior to bending into the sub panel with any size pipe I want. Can I get three #4's in 3/4 inch thinwall or must I use #6? My intention was to undersize the feed breaker in the main panel to accomodate whatever wire I can get into this pipe. Must use #6 (THHN); 3/4 won't accept #4. 4 #6 allowed. I would pull 3 #6 plus 1 #8 (or #10) Grn Equip Ground. 60 Amp breaker. (Technically, could be a 70) With the steam unit (Line-to-Line), it might be possible to use a reduced Neutral size for the feeder, but that may be making things too complicated... Jim- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks The steam unit outlet will come off one of the sub panel branch breakers (30A/220V GFCI) thats no problem as that outlet is not yet roughed in. The remainder of the branch breakers in the new sub panel will be for misc lights and outlets in the new addition. 60 amps total to the sub panel via 3 #6 should be plenty plus a #8 or 10 bare safety ground wire. (considering my entire first home had 60 amps total service) Then you would suggest re-grounding the new sub panel with the bare wire (in addition to the natural conduit-created ground)? Just to make sure it has a good tight ground? I'm assuming one should not re- bind the neutral again in any sub panel, is this true? FYI I'm having an apprentice electrician do the work (my nephew) I just like to know what's going on capacity-wise. |
#4
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#6 or #4 wire in 3/4 inch thinwall?
On Aug 6, 2:11 pm, RickH wrote:
On Aug 6, 1:34 pm, Speedy Jim wrote: RickH wrote: I need to add a sub-panel about 40 feet away from my main panel. The previous owner left an empty 3/4 inch run of conduit in case anyone wanted to add a sub-panel to the other side of the house (for an addition) (conduit runs interior sub-panel will be interior). Now is the time for that addition. I would like to run #6 wire to the sub panel because one of the new branch circuits will have a 30 amp steam unit for the bath. Ideally I'd like to run #4 wire even if I can. The 40 foot run only has one 90 degree bend right at the main panel and I could put a large pull box at the other end prior to bending into the sub panel with any size pipe I want. Can I get three #4's in 3/4 inch thinwall or must I use #6? My intention was to undersize the feed breaker in the main panel to accomodate whatever wire I can get into this pipe. Must use #6 (THHN); 3/4 won't accept #4. 4 #6 allowed. I would pull 3 #6 plus 1 #8 (or #10) Grn Equip Ground. 60 Amp breaker. (Technically, could be a 70) With the steam unit (Line-to-Line), it might be possible to use a reduced Neutral size for the feeder, but that may be making things too complicated... Jim- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks The steam unit outlet will come off one of the sub panel branch breakers (30A/220V GFCI) thats no problem as that outlet is not yet roughed in. The remainder of the branch breakers in the new sub panel will be for misc lights and outlets in the new addition. 60 amps total to the sub panel via 3 #6 should be plenty plus a #8 or 10 bare safety ground wire. (considering my entire first home had 60 amps total service) Then you would suggest re-grounding the new sub panel with the bare wire (in addition to the natural conduit-created ground)? Just to make sure it has a good tight ground? I'm assuming one should not re- bind the neutral again in any sub panel, is this true? FYI I'm having an apprentice electrician do the work (my nephew) I just like to know what's going on capacity-wise.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Meant to say: I'm assuming one should not re-bind the neutral to ground again in any sub panel, is this true? Should the neutral-to-ground binding only occur once in a house (at the meter or main panel)? No matter how many sub-panels you have. |
#5
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#6 or #4 wire in 3/4 inch thinwall?
RickH wrote:
On Aug 6, 2:11 pm, RickH wrote: On Aug 6, 1:34 pm, Speedy Jim wrote: RickH wrote: I need to add a sub-panel about 40 feet away from my main panel. The previous owner left an empty 3/4 inch run of conduit in case anyone wanted to add a sub-panel to the other side of the house (for an addition) (conduit runs interior sub-panel will be interior). Now is the time for that addition. I would like to run #6 wire to the sub panel because one of the new branch circuits will have a 30 amp steam unit for the bath. Ideally I'd like to run #4 wire even if I can. The 40 foot run only has one 90 degree bend right at the main panel and I could put a large pull box at the other end prior to bending into the sub panel with any size pipe I want. Can I get three #4's in 3/4 inch thinwall or must I use #6? My intention was to undersize the feed breaker in the main panel to accomodate whatever wire I can get into this pipe. Must use #6 (THHN); 3/4 won't accept #4. 4 #6 allowed. I would pull 3 #6 plus 1 #8 (or #10) Grn Equip Ground. 60 Amp breaker. (Technically, could be a 70) With the steam unit (Line-to-Line), it might be possible to use a reduced Neutral size for the feeder, but that may be making things too complicated... Jim- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks The steam unit outlet will come off one of the sub panel branch breakers (30A/220V GFCI) thats no problem as that outlet is not yet roughed in. The remainder of the branch breakers in the new sub panel will be for misc lights and outlets in the new addition. 60 amps total to the sub panel via 3 #6 should be plenty plus a #8 or 10 bare safety ground wire. (considering my entire first home had 60 amps total service) Then you would suggest re-grounding the new sub panel with the bare wire (in addition to the natural conduit-created ground)? Just to make sure it has a good tight ground? I'm assuming one should not re- bind the neutral again in any sub panel, is this true? FYI I'm having an apprentice electrician do the work (my nephew) I just like to know what's going on capacity-wise.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Meant to say: I'm assuming one should not re-bind the neutral to ground again in any sub panel, is this true? Should the neutral-to-ground binding only occur once in a house (at the meter or main panel)? No matter how many sub-panels you have. Right you are. The new sub-panel may come with a Bonding screw intended to bond the Neutral bar to the enclosure/box. Throw the screw away. :-) If the panel doesn't come with one, you will need an accessory Grounding bar so that the bare gound wires (Romex) can be terminated on it, rather than on the Neutral bar. |
#6
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#6 or #4 wire in 3/4 inch thinwall?
On Aug 6, 3:02 pm, Speedy Jim wrote:
RickH wrote: On Aug 6, 2:11 pm, RickH wrote: On Aug 6, 1:34 pm, Speedy Jim wrote: RickH wrote: I need to add a sub-panel about 40 feet away from my main panel. The previous owner left an empty 3/4 inch run of conduit in case anyone wanted to add a sub-panel to the other side of the house (for an addition) (conduit runs interior sub-panel will be interior). Now is the time for that addition. I would like to run #6 wire to the sub panel because one of the new branch circuits will have a 30 amp steam unit for the bath. Ideally I'd like to run #4 wire even if I can. The 40 foot run only has one 90 degree bend right at the main panel and I could put a large pull box at the other end prior to bending into the sub panel with any size pipe I want. Can I get three #4's in 3/4 inch thinwall or must I use #6? My intention was to undersize the feed breaker in the main panel to accomodate whatever wire I can get into this pipe. Must use #6 (THHN); 3/4 won't accept #4. 4 #6 allowed. I would pull 3 #6 plus 1 #8 (or #10) Grn Equip Ground. 60 Amp breaker. (Technically, could be a 70) With the steam unit (Line-to-Line), it might be possible to use a reduced Neutral size for the feeder, but that may be making things too complicated... Jim- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks The steam unit outlet will come off one of the sub panel branch breakers (30A/220V GFCI) thats no problem as that outlet is not yet roughed in. The remainder of the branch breakers in the new sub panel will be for misc lights and outlets in the new addition. 60 amps total to the sub panel via 3 #6 should be plenty plus a #8 or 10 bare safety ground wire. (considering my entire first home had 60 amps total service) Then you would suggest re-grounding the new sub panel with the bare wire (in addition to the natural conduit-created ground)? Just to make sure it has a good tight ground? I'm assuming one should not re- bind the neutral again in any sub panel, is this true? FYI I'm having an apprentice electrician do the work (my nephew) I just like to know what's going on capacity-wise.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Meant to say: I'm assuming one should not re-bind the neutral to ground again in any sub panel, is this true? Should the neutral-to-ground binding only occur once in a house (at the meter or main panel)? No matter how many sub-panels you have. Right you are. The new sub-panel may come with a Bonding screw intended to bond the Neutral bar to the enclosure/box. Throw the screw away. :-) If the panel doesn't come with one, you will need an accessory Grounding bar so that the bare gound wires (Romex) can be terminated on it, rather than on the Neutral bar.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks Jim, Thats what I thought, re-binding a neutral in a sub panel would make the ground wire from the main panel into a normal-condition load carrier. And it is my understanding that safety ground must never carry a load in normal-condition, rather only when the connected device has a fault. |
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