I am roofing a new 1-car garage and I have a couple questions I can't
seem to find answers on. I have no qualms about doing the roofing,
but like everything, I think I'm overthinking things, but need to get
some feedback for a sanity check.

I live in Oregon, so we get a fair amount of rain - so much, that in
matching up shingle colors to my existing house, it was hard to say
that the 3-year old roof wasn't partially green.

Anyway, the questions a

1. Drip edge - leave away from the eave, like 1/4 or 1/2 inch, even if
putting gutters under? Also, how much should they overlap on the
eaves - I've seen 3 inches and 6 inches? Do I need to use roof cement
to adhere the felt to the drip edges?
2. Vents - the holes are cut for the vents, but I assume I won't put
them on until I after I shingle (which means cutting the shingles out
of the hole).
3. Ridge shingles - is just cutting separate tabs from 3-tabs an
acceptable ridge?
4. Nailing or stapling roofing felt - it seems like stapling would be
enough.

thanks,

danbo

On May 25, 8:43 am, danbo wrote:
I am roofing a new 1-car garage and I have a couple questions I can't
seem to find answers on. I have no qualms about doing the roofing,
but like everything, I think I'm overthinking things, but need to get
some feedback for a sanity check.

I live in Oregon, so we get a fair amount of rain - so much, that in
matching up shingle colors to my existing house, it was hard to say
that the 3-year old roof wasn't partially green.

Anyway, the questions a

1. Drip edge - leave away from the eave, like 1/4 or 1/2 inch, even if
putting gutters under? Also, how much should they overlap on the
eaves - I've seen 3 inches and 6 inches? Do I need to use roof cement
to adhere the felt to the drip edges?
2. Vents - the holes are cut for the vents, but I assume I won't put
them on until I after I shingle (which means cutting the shingles out
of the hole).
3. Ridge shingles - is just cutting separate tabs from 3-tabs an
acceptable ridge?
4. Nailing or stapling roofing felt - it seems like stapling would be
enough.

thanks,

danbo

Drip edge should be gently laid on the eave so the part that hangs
down just touches the fascia, and isn't distorted when fastened.
You'll still be able to slip in the gutter later. They only need to be
overlapped 1/8th to a quarter inch. No need to adhere felt to the drip
edge. Cut out your shingles when you install the vents, so the vents
will be flashed properly and look good. Just mind where you step in
the meantime! Cutting 3-tabs for ridge has always worked for me, just
have to make 4 cuts per shingle, so you don't get excess material
hanging lower than the bottom edge of the caps. If you're going to
walk on the felt, than nail it properly, as staples don't have near
the holding power that roofing nails will give you. Tom

On May 25, 11:08 am, tom wrote: Just mind where you
step in the meantime! Maybe a quick shot of day-glo orange on the
shingles where the cut-outs for the vents are, just to remind you?

On May 25, 11:43 am, danbo wrote:
1. Drip edge - leave away from the eave, like 1/4 or 1/2 inch, even if
putting gutters under? Also, how much should they overlap on the
eaves - I've seen 3 inches and 6 inches? Do I need to use roof cement
to adhere the felt to the drip edges?

I've watched many a professional, and even done it a few times myself
over the years. Looks like they always jam it right up against the
edge.

2. Vents - the holes are cut for the vents, but I assume I won't put
them on until I after I shingle (which means cutting the shingles out
of the hole).

You treat it as a shingle. Install the flange on top of any shingles
below it, and install any shingles above it over the top of the
flange.

3. Ridge shingles - is just cutting separate tabs from 3-tabs an
acceptable ridge?

That's what we've always done. That's what every professional I've
ever dealt with has done. I think it's common practice.

You actually just cut the whole shingle in 1/3s, not just the tabs.

4. Nailing or stapling roofing felt - it seems like stapling would be
enough.

Stapling is faster. Either is adequate, because you're putting the
shingles on over it, and you're going to nail the s#it out of the
shingles, right through the felt. Use nails with plastic washers if
you use nails on the felt.

Thanks for the replies - once I got going, it all started coming
together. The hardest part was doing the eaves without scaffolding -
moving the ladder every minute is a royal pain - so I went out and
rented some scaffolding!! All the things I've learned - now maybe
I'll use my knowledge again someday. Number one lesson - I think next
time I'll use 30# felt to reduce the paper's desire to get wavy after
installation.

Tom, I think if I would have read your second reply before I papered,
I might have avoided putting my foot through one of the vent holes -
fortunately I felt it start to give before sinking my leg all the way
through it - that could have been ugly...

- danbo


On May 25, 11:19 am, wrote:
On May 25, 11:43 am, danbo wrote:

1. Drip edge - leave away from the eave, like 1/4 or 1/2 inch, even if
putting gutters under? Also, how much should they overlap on the
eaves - I've seen 3 inches and 6 inches? Do I need to use roof cement
to adhere the felt to the drip edges?

I've watched many a professional, and even done it a few times myself
over the years. Looks like they always jam it right up against the
edge.

2. Vents - the holes are cut for the vents, but I assume I won't put
them on until I after I shingle (which means cutting the shingles out
of the hole).

You treat it as a shingle. Install the flange on top of any shingles
below it, and install any shingles above it over the top of the
flange.

3. Ridge shingles - is just cutting separate tabs from 3-tabs an
acceptable ridge?

That's what we've always done. That's what every professional I've
ever dealt with has done. I think it's common practice.

You actually just cut the whole shingle in 1/3s, not just the tabs.

4. Nailing or stapling roofing felt - it seems like stapling would be
enough.

Stapling is faster. Either is adequate, because you're putting the
shingles on over it, and you're going to nail the s#it out of the
shingles, right through the felt. Use nails with plastic washers if
you use nails on the felt.

On May 29, 10:18 am, danbo wrote:
Thanks for the replies - once I got going, it all started coming
together. The hardest part was doing the eaves without scaffolding -
moving the ladder every minute is a royal pain - so I went out and
rented some scaffolding!! All the things I've learned - now maybe
I'll use my knowledge again someday. Number one lesson - I think next
time I'll use 30# felt to reduce the paper's desire to get wavy after
installation.

Tom, I think if I would have read your second reply before I papered,
I might have avoided putting my foot through one of the vent holes -
fortunately I felt it start to give before sinking my leg all the way
through it - that could have been ugly...

- danbo

Glad you're okay. Tom