Moving studs
 

I'm gonna move a stud over to help accomodate a light fixture that I worked
on this weekend.

The way I see it, if I move the stud over 4", then put another stud 4" to
the other side of the where the first stud was originally I should have my
bases covered. Should I use a stringer between the studs if I do this?

I know, moving a stud to work on a light seems like overkill but if I move
the light I'd have to rerun the wiring, repair the siding where the fixture
hole is, when I could just remove some vaneer paneling in a closet and move
a stud 4" then put the paneling back up.

Am I just being crazy here? Seems like moving a stud would be simple to
do - simpler than repairing cedar siding planks and tearing out a wall to
reroute a wiring run.

Moving studs
 

Eigenvector wrote:

I'm gonna move a stud over to help accomodate a light fixture that I
worked on this weekend.

The way I see it, if I move the stud over 4", then put another stud 4"
to the other side of the where the first stud was originally I should
have my bases covered. Should I use a stringer between the studs if I
do this?

I know, moving a stud to work on a light seems like overkill but if I
move the light I'd have to rerun the wiring, repair the siding where the
fixture hole is, when I could just remove some vaneer paneling in a
closet and move a stud 4" then put the paneling back up.

Am I just being crazy here? Seems like moving a stud would be simple to
do - simpler than repairing cedar siding planks and tearing out a wall
to reroute a wiring run.

Ha! I like your solution. Leave the cedar siding alone.

But is the sheathing (ply?) nailed into that stud?
Worse if 2 sheets of sheathing meet there.

Jim

Moving studs
 

On May 7, 7:03 pm, "Eigenvector" wrote:
I'm gonna move a stud over to help accomodate a light fixture that I worked
on this weekend.

The way I see it, if I move the stud over 4", then put another stud 4" to
the other side of the where the first stud was originally I should have my
bases covered. Should I use a stringer between the studs if I do this?

I know, moving a stud to work on a light seems like overkill but if I move
the light I'd have to rerun the wiring, repair the siding where the fixture
hole is, when I could just remove some vaneer paneling in a closet and move
a stud 4" then put the paneling back up.

Am I just being crazy here? Seems like moving a stud would be simple to
do - simpler than repairing cedar siding planks and tearing out a wall to
reroute a wiring run.

Why actually move the whole thing? If I understand you, this is just
an exterior wall interior (as in between corners) stud whose only real
structural purpose is to serve as a nailing surface for the siding.
Why not just cut out what you need to get access and run a stringer
across the top and bottom and be done?

Again, can't really envision what the end objective is, but seems to
me moving the whole existing stud would be more effort than necessary.

Moving studs
 

On May 7, 8:03 pm, "Eigenvector" wrote:
I'm gonna move a stud over to help accomodate a light fixture that I worked
on this weekend.

The way I see it, if I move the stud over 4", then put another stud 4" to
the other side of the where the first stud was originally I should have my
bases covered. Should I use a stringer between the studs if I do this?

I know, moving a stud to work on a light seems like overkill but if I move
the light I'd have to rerun the wiring, repair the siding where the fixture
hole is, when I could just remove some vaneer paneling in a closet and move
a stud 4" then put the paneling back up.

Am I just being crazy here? Seems like moving a stud would be simple to
do - simpler than repairing cedar siding planks and tearing out a wall to
reroute a wiring run.

I'm with Speedy and you.
If you can work from the inside you disturb less.

Was the fixture fastened through the siding and to the stud?
You don't have to move the entire stud, which should be nailed to the
sheathing.
You might saw out the piece you need for access to the wiring, then
sister a new stud to the original.

T

Moving studs
 

wrote in message
oups.com...
On May 7, 8:03 pm, "Eigenvector" wrote:
I'm gonna move a stud over to help accomodate a light fixture that I
worked
on this weekend.

The way I see it, if I move the stud over 4", then put another stud 4" to
the other side of the where the first stud was originally I should have
my
bases covered. Should I use a stringer between the studs if I do this?

I know, moving a stud to work on a light seems like overkill but if I
move
the light I'd have to rerun the wiring, repair the siding where the
fixture
hole is, when I could just remove some vaneer paneling in a closet and
move
a stud 4" then put the paneling back up.

Am I just being crazy here? Seems like moving a stud would be simple to
do - simpler than repairing cedar siding planks and tearing out a wall to
reroute a wiring run.

I'm with Speedy and you.
If you can work from the inside you disturb less.

Was the fixture fastened through the siding and to the stud?
You don't have to move the entire stud, which should be nailed to the
sheathing.
You might saw out the piece you need for access to the wiring, then
sister a new stud to the original.

T


All excellent comments from all of you - thanks guys.

Originally I had considered using the jigsaw to cut the stud out while I was
installing the light - or rather the replacement light (see my previous post
on "help with porchlight"). I wasn't sure if the exterior studs were
structural or not so I opted to not cut it and decided that moving it would
be better.

I actually totally forgot that the sheathing would be attached to the stud,
one more headache I missed. Cutting the stud then putting stringers up
would work totally. Like I said I just wasn't sure if cutting it would
weaken the framing and do more damage in the long run.

Moving studs
 

On May 7, 6:38 pm, "Eigenvector" wrote:
wrote in message

oups.com...





On May 7, 8:03 pm, "Eigenvector" wrote:
I'm gonna move a stud over to help accomodate a light fixture that I
worked
on this weekend.

The way I see it, if I move the stud over 4", then put another stud 4" to
the other side of the where the first stud was originally I should have
my
bases covered. Should I use a stringer between the studs if I do this?

I know, moving a stud to work on a light seems like overkill but if I
move
the light I'd have to rerun the wiring, repair the siding where the
fixture
hole is, when I could just remove some vaneer paneling in a closet and
move
a stud 4" then put the paneling back up.

Am I just being crazy here? Seems like moving a stud would be simple to
do - simpler than repairing cedar siding planks and tearing out a wall to
reroute a wiring run.

I'm with Speedy and you.
If you can work from the inside you disturb less.

Was the fixture fastened through the siding and to the stud?
You don't have to move the entire stud, which should be nailed to the
sheathing.
You might saw out the piece you need for access to the wiring, then
sister a new stud to the original.

T

All excellent comments from all of you - thanks guys.

Originally I had considered using the jigsaw to cut the stud out while I was
installing the light - or rather the replacement light (see my previous post
on "help with porchlight"). I wasn't sure if the exterior studs were
structural or not so I opted to not cut it and decided that moving it would
be better.

I actually totally forgot that the sheathing would be attached to the stud,
one more headache I missed. Cutting the stud then putting stringers up
would work totally. Like I said I just wasn't sure if cutting it would
weaken the framing and do more damage in the long run.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Just commenting on the structual aspect:
I was taught that all exterior walls are to be considered load
bearing. Now I don't agree with that in the case of a simple gable
end wall but...

Harry K

Moving studs
 

"Harry K" wrote in message
s.com...
On May 7, 6:38 pm, "Eigenvector" wrote:
wrote in message

oups.com...





On May 7, 8:03 pm, "Eigenvector" wrote:
I'm gonna move a stud over to help accomodate a light fixture that I
worked
on this weekend.

The way I see it, if I move the stud over 4", then put another stud 4"
to
the other side of the where the first stud was originally I should
have
my
bases covered. Should I use a stringer between the studs if I do
this?

I know, moving a stud to work on a light seems like overkill but if I
move
the light I'd have to rerun the wiring, repair the siding where the
fixture
hole is, when I could just remove some vaneer paneling in a closet and
move
a stud 4" then put the paneling back up.

Am I just being crazy here? Seems like moving a stud would be simple
to
do - simpler than repairing cedar siding planks and tearing out a wall
to
reroute a wiring run.

I'm with Speedy and you.
If you can work from the inside you disturb less.

Was the fixture fastened through the siding and to the stud?
You don't have to move the entire stud, which should be nailed to the
sheathing.
You might saw out the piece you need for access to the wiring, then
sister a new stud to the original.

T

All excellent comments from all of you - thanks guys.

Originally I had considered using the jigsaw to cut the stud out while I
was
installing the light - or rather the replacement light (see my previous
post
on "help with porchlight"). I wasn't sure if the exterior studs were
structural or not so I opted to not cut it and decided that moving it
would
be better.

I actually totally forgot that the sheathing would be attached to the
stud,
one more headache I missed. Cutting the stud then putting stringers up
would work totally. Like I said I just wasn't sure if cutting it would
weaken the framing and do more damage in the long run.- Hide quoted
text -

- Show quoted text -

Just commenting on the structual aspect:
I was taught that all exterior walls are to be considered load
bearing. Now I don't agree with that in the case of a simple gable
end wall but...

Harry K


Well I can still install another stud if it looks iffy. Wouldn't be that
hard at all

Moving studs
 

"Eigenvector" wrote in message
...
|
| "Harry K" wrote in message
| s.com...
| On May 7, 6:38 pm, "Eigenvector" wrote:
| wrote in message
|
| oups.com...
|
|
|
|
|
| On May 7, 8:03 pm, "Eigenvector" wrote:
| I'm gonna move a stud over to help accomodate a light fixture
that I
| worked
| on this weekend.
|
| The way I see it, if I move the stud over 4", then put another
stud 4"
| to
| the other side of the where the first stud was originally I
should
| have
| my
| bases covered. Should I use a stringer between the studs if I
do
| this?
|
| I know, moving a stud to work on a light seems like overkill but
if I
| move
| the light I'd have to rerun the wiring, repair the siding where
the
| fixture
| hole is, when I could just remove some vaneer paneling in a
closet and
| move
| a stud 4" then put the paneling back up.
|
| Am I just being crazy here? Seems like moving a stud would be
simple
| to
| do - simpler than repairing cedar siding planks and tearing out
a wall
| to
| reroute a wiring run.
|
| I'm with Speedy and you.
| If you can work from the inside you disturb less.
|
| Was the fixture fastened through the siding and to the stud?
| You don't have to move the entire stud, which should be nailed to
the
| sheathing.
| You might saw out the piece you need for access to the wiring,
then
| sister a new stud to the original.
|
| T
|
| All excellent comments from all of you - thanks guys.
|
| Originally I had considered using the jigsaw to cut the stud out
while I
| was
| installing the light - or rather the replacement light (see my
previous
| post
| on "help with porchlight"). I wasn't sure if the exterior studs
were
| structural or not so I opted to not cut it and decided that moving
it
| would
| be better.
|
| I actually totally forgot that the sheathing would be attached to
the
| stud,
| one more headache I missed. Cutting the stud then putting
stringers up
| would work totally. Like I said I just wasn't sure if cutting it
would
| weaken the framing and do more damage in the long run.- Hide quoted
| text -
|
| - Show quoted text -
|
| Just commenting on the structual aspect:
| I was taught that all exterior walls are to be considered load
| bearing. Now I don't agree with that in the case of a simple gable
| end wall but...
|
| Harry K
|
|
| Well I can still install another stud if it looks iffy. Wouldn't be
that
| hard at all



why move the stud?
why not just install an electrical "pan" box on the stud?

the stud you are moving or cutting could be holding up the ridge or
window/door header.
|

Moving studs
 

On 7 May 2007 17:29:14 -0700, dpb wrote:

On May 7, 7:03 pm, "Eigenvector" wrote:
I'm gonna move a stud over to help accomodate a light fixture that I worked
on this weekend.

The way I see it, if I move the stud over 4", then put another stud 4" to
the other side of the where the first stud was originally I should have my
bases covered. Should I use a stringer between the studs if I do this?

I know, moving a stud to work on a light seems like overkill but if I move
the light I'd have to rerun the wiring, repair the siding where the fixture
hole is, when I could just remove some vaneer paneling in a closet and move
a stud 4" then put the paneling back up.

Am I just being crazy here? Seems like moving a stud would be simple to
do - simpler than repairing cedar siding planks and tearing out a wall to
reroute a wiring run.


Since there's apparently wire, a hole, and a fixture already in place,
why do you have to move anything? You aren't making any sense.

Moving studs
 

"3G" wrote in message ...


"Eigenvector" wrote in message
...
|
| "Harry K" wrote in message
| s.com...
| On May 7, 6:38 pm, "Eigenvector" wrote:
| wrote in message
|
| oups.com...
|
|
|
|
|
| On May 7, 8:03 pm, "Eigenvector" wrote:
| I'm gonna move a stud over to help accomodate a light fixture
that I
| worked
| on this weekend.
|
| The way I see it, if I move the stud over 4", then put another
stud 4"
| to
| the other side of the where the first stud was originally I
should
| have
| my
| bases covered. Should I use a stringer between the studs if I
do
| this?
|
| I know, moving a stud to work on a light seems like overkill but
if I
| move
| the light I'd have to rerun the wiring, repair the siding where
the
| fixture
| hole is, when I could just remove some vaneer paneling in a
closet and
| move
| a stud 4" then put the paneling back up.
|
| Am I just being crazy here? Seems like moving a stud would be
simple
| to
| do - simpler than repairing cedar siding planks and tearing out
a wall
| to
| reroute a wiring run.
|
| I'm with Speedy and you.
| If you can work from the inside you disturb less.
|
| Was the fixture fastened through the siding and to the stud?
| You don't have to move the entire stud, which should be nailed to
the
| sheathing.
| You might saw out the piece you need for access to the wiring,
then
| sister a new stud to the original.
|
| T
|
| All excellent comments from all of you - thanks guys.
|
| Originally I had considered using the jigsaw to cut the stud out
while I
| was
| installing the light - or rather the replacement light (see my
previous
| post
| on "help with porchlight"). I wasn't sure if the exterior studs
were
| structural or not so I opted to not cut it and decided that moving
it
| would
| be better.
|
| I actually totally forgot that the sheathing would be attached to
the
| stud,
| one more headache I missed. Cutting the stud then putting
stringers up
| would work totally. Like I said I just wasn't sure if cutting it
would
| weaken the framing and do more damage in the long run.- Hide quoted
| text -
|
| - Show quoted text -
|
| Just commenting on the structual aspect:
| I was taught that all exterior walls are to be considered load
| bearing. Now I don't agree with that in the case of a simple gable
| end wall but...
|
| Harry K
|
|
| Well I can still install another stud if it looks iffy. Wouldn't be
that
| hard at all



why move the stud?
why not just install an electrical "pan" box on the stud?

the stud you are moving or cutting could be holding up the ridge or
window/door header.
|

I thought of that initially. I actually have the pan box attached to the
sheathing, if I could attach it to the stud I'd have to move the light and
that would entail repairing my siding and possibly pulling the wire.
Besides, I can't stand those pan boxes - my pudgy fingers just aren't nimble
enough.