My daughter-units had a sleep-over where the pack were having too
much fun and not enough supervision. The result: a doorknob-sized
hole in my bathroom wall. There's not enough drywall left to pull
it back through and patch it.

I'd like to enhance the structure at this point. Is there a way of
supporting it beyond a simple cross-piece attached from the back?

Many thanks.

The Ranger

"The Ranger" wrote in message
...
My daughter-units had a sleep-over where the pack were having too much fun
and not enough supervision. The result: a doorknob-sized hole in my
bathroom wall. There's not enough drywall left to pull it back through and
patch it.

I'd like to enhance the structure at this point. Is there a way of
supporting it beyond a simple cross-piece attached from the back?

Many thanks.

The Ranger

Hello Ranger,

Rather than the simple cross piece from the back that you don't want to
do, take the knife and cut it to the studs on each side and remud the
works...Then buy a good floor mounted door stopper.Jim

On Apr 26, 9:59 pm, "The Ranger" wrote:
much fun and not enough supervision. The result: a doorknob-sized
hole in my bathroom wall. There's not enough drywall left to pull
it back through and patch it.

I'd like to enhance the structure at this point. Is there a way of
supporting it beyond a simple cross-piece attached from the back?

Not sure what you mean by "cross-piece attached from the back." You
take a piece of wood about 6" longer than the hole, insert it in, and
attach with a drywall screw or two on each side from the front. Then
screw a door knob-sized piece of drywall to the wood.

The Ranger wrote:
My daughter-units had a sleep-over where the pack were having too
much fun and not enough supervision. The result: a doorknob-sized
hole in my bathroom wall. There's not enough drywall left to pull
it back through and patch it.

I'd like to enhance the structure at this point. Is there a way of
supporting it beyond a simple cross-piece attached from the back?

Many thanks.

The Ranger


As a landlord, the easiest fix for that is one of these:
http://www.improvementscatalog.com/home/improvements/3898-knobnest.html
The problem is solved forever.
--
Grandpa

Grandpa wrote in message
news:nNeYh.3521$1M1.1460@trnddc01...

-- Doorknob hole in bathroom drywall --

As a landlord, the easiest fix for that is one of these:
http://www.improvementscatalog.com/home/improvements/3898-knobnest.html
The problem is solved forever.

I showed this to my wife, agreeing with you that this would indeed
solve the problem forever. She was not as enthusiastic towards its
installation, preferring something more conservative
(conventional). Looks like I'll continue fixing these the old
fashioned way...

The Ranger

Meat Plow wrote in message
news == Hole in bathroom drywall ==

Done this several times. Cut a piece of stiff screen slightly
bigger than the hole. Attach a thin wire or paper clip to the
center, mud the screen up with 5 minute mud and push it
through the hole and center it. Wait a couple minutes till the
mud sets a bit to hold itself then cut the wire flush. Then
mix some more mud just to fill the hole and let it set up.
Then sand it flush and use a finishing mud, let it set, sand
and flare it then paint. Put a good door stop on to prevent
another hole.

Thanks! I happen to have some nice steel mesh that will fill this
requirement. I also have a brass door stop that I'll be sure to
install prior to opening the bathroom back up to my Hunnish
Hordes.

The Ranger

Cover the hole with a nice 8"x8" piece of 1x finished wood, and screw a door
knob bumper to it.

--
Steve Barker




"The Ranger" wrote in message
...
My daughter-units had a sleep-over where the pack were having too much fun
and not enough supervision. The result: a doorknob-sized hole in my
bathroom wall. There's not enough drywall left to pull it back through and
patch it.

I'd like to enhance the structure at this point. Is there a way of
supporting it beyond a simple cross-piece attached from the back?

Many thanks.

The Ranger

Meat Plow wrote:
On Thu, 26 Apr 2007 22:34:49 -0700, The Ranger wrote:


Meat Plow wrote in message
news == Hole in bathroom drywall ==


Done this several times. Cut a piece of stiff screen slightly
bigger than the hole. Attach a thin wire or paper clip to the
center, mud the screen up with 5 minute mud and push it
through the hole and center it. Wait a couple minutes till the
mud sets a bit to hold itself then cut the wire flush. Then
mix some more mud just to fill the hole and let it set up.
Then sand it flush and use a finishing mud, let it set, sand
and flare it then paint. Put a good door stop on to prevent
another hole.

Thanks! I happen to have some nice steel mesh that will fill this
requirement. I also have a brass door stop that I'll be sure to
install prior to opening the bathroom back up to my Hunnish
Hordes.

The Ranger


Another alternative is that someone makes a hard rubber adhesive backed
round pad that can just cover the hole. They are like 5 inches in diameter
and made specifically for this. I think that Rubbermaid may make them but
I'm not sure. It's a cheap quick fix and they don't look bad either. My GF
and I have 5 kids living with us so drywall repair has become an expertise
of mine


Re that door stop...

The proper place to locate it is 2/3 of the way out from the hinges to
the outer edge of the door. You may want to cut the door stop down in
length so that the door isn't stopped TOO far out from the wall.

Why 2/3 of the way out?

Because that's the "center of percussion" for something (of constant
density) rotating around one edge, so there's less reaction on the
hinges when the door hits the stop. Think of it like striking a baseball
with the "sweet spot" of the bat.

If it's a hollow door it won't have constant density, but it's close
enough for gummint work.

It'd be ideal to locate the stop on the wall half way up the height of
the door too, but that'd look plain silly.

Jeff (Who fully expects everyone to say, "Who gives a ****e about that."
G)

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

On Fri, 27 Apr 2007 17:49:02 -0400, Jeff Wisnia wrote:

Meat Plow wrote:
On Thu, 26 Apr 2007 22:34:49 -0700, The Ranger wrote:


Meat Plow wrote in message
news == Hole in bathroom drywall ==


Done this several times. Cut a piece of stiff screen slightly
bigger than the hole. Attach a thin wire or paper clip to the
center, mud the screen up with 5 minute mud and push it
through the hole and center it. Wait a couple minutes till the
mud sets a bit to hold itself then cut the wire flush. Then
mix some more mud just to fill the hole and let it set up.
Then sand it flush and use a finishing mud, let it set, sand
and flare it then paint. Put a good door stop on to prevent
another hole.

Thanks! I happen to have some nice steel mesh that will fill this
requirement. I also have a brass door stop that I'll be sure to
install prior to opening the bathroom back up to my Hunnish
Hordes.

The Ranger


Another alternative is that someone makes a hard rubber adhesive backed
round pad that can just cover the hole. They are like 5 inches in diameter
and made specifically for this. I think that Rubbermaid may make them but
I'm not sure. It's a cheap quick fix and they don't look bad either. My GF
and I have 5 kids living with us so drywall repair has become an expertise
of mine


Re that door stop...

The proper place to locate it is 2/3 of the way out from the hinges to
the outer edge of the door. You may want to cut the door stop down in
length so that the door isn't stopped TOO far out from the wall.

Why 2/3 of the way out?

Because that's the "center of percussion" for something (of constant
density) rotating around one edge, so there's less reaction on the
hinges when the door hits the stop. Think of it like striking a baseball
with the "sweet spot" of the bat.

If it's a hollow door it won't have constant density, but it's close
enough for gummint work.

It'd be ideal to locate the stop on the wall half way up the height of
the door too, but that'd look plain silly.

Jeff (Who fully expects everyone to say, "Who gives a ****e about that."
G)


Was working on a nightclub refurb a few years ago. Do a ****load of work
during the day and then clean up for the club to open that night. Every
day, seven days a week for about three months.

One of the mens' washrooms had to have a replacement door once- half-hour
fire rated, very heavy. There was a hot air hand drier behind the door
which the door would strike if it opened too far, so we had to fix a
doorstop to the floor to stop this. If the doorstop had been placed in the
correct position it would have constituted a trip hazard, so I had to set
it one third of the door from the hinges.

I told the contractor that it wasn't a good idea and someone (ie the
architect) should specify some other way of doing things vis a vis the
door.

The next day, the door was off its hinges. And the next, and the next, and
the next. There was even a pneumatic door closer on the door which had to
be replaced a number of times, having occasionally been torn from the
doorframe when the hinges were uprooted.

I left the job before it was finished and moved on to another, but I still
wonder if that door gets wrecked as often as it did when I was working
there :-)

--
Registered Linux User 413057.
Both Mandriva 2007 and Ubuntu 6.06
You can have it all. My empire of hurt.

Seems it would have been a lot simpler and better to move the )(*^%@!!! hand
dryer that was put in the wrong place to begin with.

--
Steve Barker




"Aardvark" wrote in message
...
The next day, the door was off its hinges. And the next, and the next,
and
the next. There was even a pneumatic door closer on the door which had to
be replaced a number of times, having occasionally been torn from the
doorframe when the hinges were uprooted.

I left the job before it was finished and moved on to another, but I still
wonder if that door gets wrecked as often as it did when I was working
there :-)

--
Registered Linux User 413057.
Both Mandriva 2007 and Ubuntu 6.06
You can have it all. My empire of hurt.

On Apr 26, 11:18 pm, Nexus7 wrote:
On Apr 26, 9:59 pm, "The Ranger" wrote:

much fun and not enough supervision. The result: a doorknob-sized
hole in my bathroom wall. There's not enough drywall left to pull
it back through and patch it.

I'd like to enhance the structure at this point. Is there a way of
supporting it beyond a simple cross-piece attached from the back?

Not sure what you mean by "cross-piece attached from the back." You
take a piece of wood about 6" longer than the hole, insert it in, and
attach with a drywall screw or two on each side from the front. Then
screw a door knob-sized piece of drywall to the wood.

Just had my home replumbed and that is exactly how the dry wall guys
replaced the sheet rock that the plumbers had to cut out. (except for
the 6" longer part, but of course they weren't trying to reinforce)

Ron wrote in message
ups.com...
On Apr 26, 11:18 pm, Nexus7 wrote:
On Apr 26, 9:59 pm, "The Ranger"
wrote:

much fun and not enough supervision. The result: a
doorknob-sized
hole in my bathroom wall. There's not enough drywall left to
pull
it back through and patch it.

I'd like to enhance the structure at this point. Is there a
way of
supporting it beyond a simple cross-piece attached from the
back?

Not sure what you mean by "cross-piece attached from the
back."
You take a piece of wood about 6" longer than the hole, insert
it in,
and attach with a drywall screw or two on each side from the
front.
Then screw a door knob-sized piece of drywall to the wood.

Just had my home replumbed and that is exactly how the dry wall
guys
replaced the sheet rock that the plumbers had to cut out.
(except for
the 6" longer part, but of course they weren't trying to
reinforce)

Yes, well that's predicated on the ideal that there's still the
whole piece left and not a bunch of crumble and powder still held
in place because there happens to be some backing paper still
attached.

Imagine a hole, the size of the standard bathroom handle (exactly
2" in diameter) where anodized steel punch through 1/2" sheet
rock, leaving nothing larger than 1/4" chunks. That's what's wrong
with using the 6" longer part attached from behind; there's
nothing left to attach to the backer. And the last I checked,
"pieces" of drywall were not being sold at Lowe's, Home Despot or
my local ACE hardware store; only 4'X8' sheets. While I have the
storage abilities to keep such a piece, that seems a little
extreme for my current needs.

I used the idea of cutting out an over-sized circle of stiff mesh
and then closing the hole with compound. It took two full days to
dry, sand, touch-up, and finish off but it looks *good*. I also
added a brass floor stop which has already paid for itself.
(There's nothing like the shock of a temper-throwing preteen
having the door bound back at her to give the idea that trashing
something that's not hers is uncool.)

The Ranger

"Ron" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Apr 26, 11:18 pm, Nexus7 wrote:
On Apr 26, 9:59 pm, "The Ranger" wrote:

much fun and not enough supervision. The result: a doorknob-sized
hole in my bathroom wall. There's not enough drywall left to pull
it back through and patch it.

I'd like to enhance the structure at this point. Is there a way of
supporting it beyond a simple cross-piece attached from the back?

Not sure what you mean by "cross-piece attached from the back." You
take a piece of wood about 6" longer than the hole, insert it in, and
attach with a drywall screw or two on each side from the front. Then
screw a door knob-sized piece of drywall to the wood.

Just had my home replumbed and that is exactly how the dry wall guys
replaced the sheet rock that the plumbers had to cut out. (except for
the 6" longer part, but of course they weren't trying to reinforce)

Find a piece of smooth-finish plywood or hardwood the same thickness as the
rock, and cut in a patch from stud to stud. After you mud the crack and
paint, it will vanish. Used to hang sinks like that.

aem sends....