Hello,

I'm replacing the deck of my covered, open porch. The new deck is 5/4
x 4 redwood v-notch T&G. [Obviously solid boards with a gap would
provide better drainage, but IMHO that is too informal for a covered
porch.] A couple questions on finishing:

1) I do want to finish the redwood, as otherwise it will tend to get a
bit grungy from foot traffic. My instinct is to use a penetrating
oil finish, rather than a film finish, because when a film finish
fails it will flake off and require sanding to remove it. I'm
leaning towards Penofin red label. Anything I'm missing here?

2) Is it useful to prefinish the underside before installation? What
about the tongue and groove? The porch deck is 3.5' - 4' above
open soil, with the region underneath enclosed but vented.

Thanks, Wayne

On Apr 3, 8:20 pm, Wayne Whitney wrote:
Hello,

I'm replacing the deck of my covered, open porch. The new deck is 5/4
x 4 redwood v-notch T&G. [Obviously solid boards with a gap would
provide better drainage, but IMHO that is too informal for a covered
porch.] A couple questions on finishing:

1) I do want to finish the redwood, as otherwise it will tend to get a
bit grungy from foot traffic. My instinct is to use a penetrating
oil finish, rather than a film finish, because when a film finish
fails it will flake off and require sanding to remove it. I'm
leaning towards Penofin red label. Anything I'm missing here?

Nope. If your preference is a penetrating finishes then thats fine.
It will not be as durable or cleanable as a polyeurathane but it is
indeed easier to apply and maintain. This is why poly is usually used
indoors and penetrating oils mostly for outdoor porches.

2) Is it useful to prefinish the underside before installation? What
about the tongue and groove? The porch deck is 3.5' - 4' above
open soil, with the region underneath enclosed but vented.

Woodworking tradition is that the underneath not have finish. Just
too much trouble and too little payoff. I have to say that it is
useful since it further protects the boards and will reduce and
expanding and contracting that occurs with all wood. Having said
that, almost no one would go what is a significant amount of trouble
to finish a surface that no one ever sees or uses.

"Lawrence" wrote in message
ups.com...
| On Apr 3, 8:20 pm, Wayne Whitney wrote:
| Hello,
|
| I'm replacing the deck of my covered, open porch. The new deck is
5/4
| x 4 redwood v-notch T&G. [Obviously solid boards with a gap would
| provide better drainage, but IMHO that is too informal for a covered
| porch.] A couple questions on finishing:
|
| 1) I do want to finish the redwood, as otherwise it will tend to get
a
| bit grungy from foot traffic. My instinct is to use a
penetrating
| oil finish, rather than a film finish, because when a film finish
| fails it will flake off and require sanding to remove it. I'm
| leaning towards Penofin red label. Anything I'm missing here?


Cabot Australian Timber oil is what I prefer.


|
| Nope. If your preference is a penetrating finishes then thats fine.
| It will not be as durable or cleanable as a polyeurathane but it is
| indeed easier to apply and maintain. This is why poly is usually used
| indoors and penetrating oils mostly for outdoor porches.
|
| 2) Is it useful to prefinish the underside before installation?
What
| about the tongue and groove? The porch deck is 3.5' - 4' above
| open soil, with the region underneath enclosed but vented.
|
| Woodworking tradition is that the underneath not have finish. Just
| too much trouble and too little payoff. I have to say that it is
| useful since it further protects the boards and will reduce and
| expanding and contracting that occurs with all wood. Having said
| that, almost no one would go what is a significant amount of trouble
| to finish a surface that no one ever sees or uses.
|

On 2007-04-04, Lawrence wrote:

2) Is it useful to prefinish the underside before installation? What
about the tongue and groove? The porch deck is 3.5' - 4' above
open soil, with the region underneath enclosed but vented.

Woodworking tradition is that the underneath not have finish. Just
too much trouble and too little payoff. I have to say that it is
useful since it further protects the boards and will reduce and
expanding and contracting that occurs with all wood. Having said
that, almost no one would go what is a significant amount of trouble
to finish a surface that no one ever sees or uses.

Well, it's no more trouble than backpriming siding. Would it be silly
to finish the back face without finishing the tongue and groove?
Seems like it would still equalize water vapor absorption rates
between faces to reduce cupping.

Cheers, Wayne

On Apr 4, 10:32 am, Wayne Whitney wrote:
On 2007-04-04, Lawrence wrote:

2) Is it useful to prefinish the underside before installation? What
about the tongue and groove? The porch deck is 3.5' - 4' above
open soil, with the region underneath enclosed but vented.

Woodworking tradition is that the underneath not have finish. Just
too much trouble and too little payoff. I have to say that it is
useful since it further protects the boards and will reduce and
expanding and contracting that occurs with all wood. Having said
that, almost no one would go what is a significant amount of trouble
to finish a surface that no one ever sees or uses.

Well, it's no more trouble than backpriming siding. Would it be silly
to finish the back face without finishing the tongue and groove?
Seems like it would still equalize water vapor absorption rates
between faces to reduce cupping.

Cheers, Wayne

The job is yours.

On Apr 4, 10:32 am, Wayne Whitney wrote:
On 2007-04-04, Lawrence wrote:

2) Is it useful to prefinish the underside before installation? What
about the tongue and groove? The porch deck is 3.5' - 4' above
open soil, with the region underneath enclosed but vented.

Woodworking tradition is that the underneath not have finish. Just
too much trouble and too little payoff. I have to say that it is
useful since it further protects the boards and will reduce and
expanding and contracting that occurs with all wood. Having said
that, almost no one would go what is a significant amount of trouble
to finish a surface that no one ever sees or uses.

Well, it's no more trouble than backpriming siding. Would it be silly
to finish the back face without finishing the tongue and groove?
Seems like it would still equalize water vapor absorption rates
between faces to reduce cupping.

Cheers, Wayne

That's true except siding is more likely to be backprimed since it is
totally exposed to the elements and is actually your first barrier
against rain and such. A porch floor has no such problem especially
underneath.

IMHO is is silly to finish either the back side or the grooves. Just
install the flooring and finish it in place, that's the way.

It could be damp under there so if you are worried about it then it
definitely makes sense to use a vapor barrier between the finish floor
and the joists or subfloor. Felt paper or paper especially for
flooring are the usual products I see in this application. 6 mil poly
is usually on hand as well. Heck, use both and it will still be less
trouble than finishing the boards before they are installed. That's a
total pain in the ass.

On 2007-04-04, Lawrence wrote:

Would it be silly to finish the back face without finishing the
tongue and groove?

IMHO is is silly to finish either the back side or the grooves. Just
install the flooring and finish it in place, that's the way.

I guess what I meant was, supposing I wish to go to the extra effort
of finishing the backside, is that useful by itself, or is it only
useful if I do all six faces?

It could be damp under there so if you are worried about it then it
definitely makes sense to use a vapor barrier between the finish floor
and the joists or subfloor.

This actually strikes me as a bad idea, as the floor deck should be
able to exchange water vapor through both faces.

Felt paper or paper especially for flooring are the usual products I
see in this application.

Right, those aren't vapor barriers.

Cheers, Wayne

On Apr 4, 10:36 pm, Wayne Whitney wrote:
On 2007-04-04, Lawrence wrote:

Would it be silly to finish the back face without finishing the
tongue and groove?

IMHO is is silly to finish either the back side or the grooves. Just
install the flooring and finish it in place, that's the way.

I guess what I meant was, supposing I wish to go to the extra effort
of finishing the backside, is that useful by itself, or is it only
useful if I do all six faces?

It could be damp under there so if you are worried about it then it
definitely makes sense to use a vapor barrier between the finish floor
and the joists or subfloor.

This actually strikes me as a bad idea, as the floor deck should be
able to exchange water vapor through both faces.

Felt paper or paper especially for flooring are the usual products I
see in this application.

Right, those aren't vapor barriers.

Cheers, Wayne

Good luck and good bye.