Facts:
8' x 7' wooden sectional door with torsion spring and Liftmaster GDO
in Chicago, IL

Background:
A few months back my door stopped midway (on its way to close) and one
of the cables came loose. We hired a pro who came and dinged me for
replacing new cables. After 5 days, the same thing happened. I
called him and he has recommended changing the whole setup ($680).

I installed new cables myself (yes, I played with death in winding the
springs myself) but after 2-3 weeks, the same problem happened. I
noticed this time that the cable drum on the left hand side (facing
the door from inside the garage) was touching the bracket and that was
causing the whole problem. I checked both cable drums and they were
rock solid. What i mean is that the cable drum hadn't shifted but the
whole torsion shaft had moved. Is there a diagnosis why the torsion
shaft is moving?

I have to confess that the house is 50 years old and I am the 6th or
7th owner of this house and I don't know how old the door is. What
would you recommend? I don't have a problem shelling out the dough
for the new door but I really hate to pay if the only thing wrong is a
small bearing someplace.

Any advise is really appreciated. If you recommend going for the new
door - I have the option to go for Clopay ($680), Amarr ( $600) or CHI
($590). Any recommendations will be helpful.

On 20 Mar 2007 14:07:50 -0700, wrote:

I noticed this time that the cable drum on the left hand side (facing
the door from inside the garage) was touching the bracket and that was
causing the whole problem. I checked both cable drums and they were
rock solid.

It should be possible to unseat the drum set screws and move the drum
to a spot where it doesn't rub against anything. Or else use that
opportunity to remove a bit of material or bend the bracket just
enough not to be in the way of the pulley drum.

On Mar 20, 4:07 pm, wrote:
Facts:
8' x 7' wooden sectional door with torsion spring and Liftmaster GDO
in Chicago, IL

Background:
A few months back my door stopped midway (on its way to close) and one
of the cables came loose. We hired a pro who came and dinged me for
replacing new cables. After 5 days, the same thing happened. I
called him and he has recommended changing the whole setup ($680).

I installed new cables myself (yes, I played with death in winding the
springs myself) but after 2-3 weeks, the same problem happened. I
noticed this time that the cable drum on the left hand side (facing
the door from inside the garage) was touching the bracket and that was
causing the whole problem. I checked both cable drums and they were
rock solid. What i mean is that the cable drum hadn't shifted but the
whole torsion shaft had moved. Is there a diagnosis why the torsion
shaft is moving?

I have to confess that the house is 50 years old and I am the 6th or
7th owner of this house and I don't know how old the door is. What
would you recommend? I don't have a problem shelling out the dough
for the new door but I really hate to pay if the only thing wrong is a
small bearing someplace.

Any advise is really appreciated. If you recommend going for the new
door - I have the option to go for Clopay ($680), Amarr ( $600) or CHI
($590). Any recommendations will be helpful.

You need a new door.

wrote:
Any advise is really appreciated. If you recommend going for the new
door - I have the option to go for Clopay ($680), Amarr ( $600) or CHI
($590). Any recommendations will be helpful.

If you decide on a professional, I know a good one in the 'burbs. (No
connection except as a satisfied customer.)

--
Martians drive SUVs! http://oregonmag.com/MarsWarm307.html

On Tue, 20 Mar 2007 21:24:48 GMT, PaPaPeng wrote:

On 20 Mar 2007 14:07:50 -0700, wrote:

I noticed this time that the cable drum on the left hand side (facing
the door from inside the garage) was touching the bracket and that was
causing the whole problem. I checked both cable drums and they were
rock solid.

It should be possible to unseat the drum set screws and move the drum
to a spot where it doesn't rub against anything. Or else use that
opportunity to remove a bit of material or bend the bracket just
enough not to be in the way of the pulley drum.


One more suggestion. Is it possible to file down the cable drum rim
so that it doesn't bind anymore? Of course make sure there is enough
rim left not to let the cable slip out.

On Mar 20, 7:49 pm, PaPaPeng wrote:
On Tue, 20 Mar 2007 21:24:48 GMT, PaPaPeng wrote:
On 20 Mar 2007 14:07:50 -0700, wrote:

I noticed this time that the cable drum on the left hand side (facing
the door from inside the garage) was touching the bracket and that was
causing the whole problem. I checked both cable drums and they were
rock solid.

It should be possible to unseat the drum set screws and move the drum
to a spot where it doesn't rub against anything. Or else use that
opportunity to remove a bit of material or bend the bracket just
enough not to be in the way of the pulley drum.

One more suggestion. Is it possible to file down the cable drum rim
so that it doesn't bind anymore? Of course make sure there is enough
rim left not to let the cable slip out.

No, I don't think that will solve my problem because the whole shaft
is moving to the right after a few days. Filing the drum will give me
another day before the problem recurs (if I read you right). Thanks
for everyone's thoughts... I guess I have to get the new door

What i mean is that the cable drum hadn't shifted but the
whole torsion shaft had moved. Is there a diagnosis why the torsion
shaft is moving?

To diagnose this you must first understand what is supposed to keep the
torsion shaft from moving axially.

Likely your door has been reassembled improperly and/or missing some
part(s). Like bushings that stand off the drums from the brackets.

wrote:
On Mar 20, 7:49 pm, PaPaPeng wrote:
On Tue, 20 Mar 2007 21:24:48 GMT, PaPaPeng wrote:
On 20 Mar 2007 14:07:50 -0700, wrote:
I noticed this time that the cable drum on the left hand side (facing
the door from inside the garage) was touching the bracket and that was
causing the whole problem. I checked both cable drums and they were
rock solid.
It should be possible to unseat the drum set screws and move the drum
to a spot where it doesn't rub against anything. Or else use that
opportunity to remove a bit of material or bend the bracket just
enough not to be in the way of the pulley drum.
One more suggestion. Is it possible to file down the cable drum rim
so that it doesn't bind anymore? Of course make sure there is enough
rim left not to let the cable slip out.

No, I don't think that will solve my problem because the whole shaft
is moving to the right after a few days. Filing the drum will give me
another day before the problem recurs (if I read you right). Thanks
for everyone's thoughts... I guess I have to get the new door

jezzuus guys, there is a setscrew that holds the shaft to the center
bearing, or the end of the spring to the shaft or whatver that is
supposed to keep it in place. It is not meant to float

On Mar 22, 12:20 pm, yourname wrote:
wrote:
On Mar 20, 7:49 pm, PaPaPeng wrote:
On Tue, 20 Mar 2007 21:24:48 GMT, PaPaPeng wrote:
On 20 Mar 2007 14:07:50 -0700, wrote:
I noticed this time that the cable drum on the left hand side (facing
the door from inside the garage) was touching the bracket and that was
causing the whole problem. I checked both cable drums and they were
rock solid.
It should be possible to unseat the drum set screws and move the drum
to a spot where it doesn't rub against anything. Or else use that
opportunity to remove a bit of material or bend the bracket just
enough not to be in the way of the pulley drum.
One more suggestion. Is it possible to file down the cable drum rim
so that it doesn't bind anymore? Of course make sure there is enough
rim left not to let the cable slip out.

No, I don't think that will solve my problem because the whole shaft
is moving to the right after a few days. Filing the drum will give me
another day before the problem recurs (if I read you right). Thanks
for everyone's thoughts... I guess I have to get the new door

jezzuus guys, there is a setscrew that holds the shaft to the center
bearing, or the end of the spring to the shaft or whatver that is
supposed to keep it in place. It is not meant to float- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I checked the bushings as Richard (above) suggested but I can't seem
to find anything wrong. I oiled the whole thing last to last
weekend. BUT, I can see that the torsion shaft can be moved to the
right if I try pulling on it from the right. So, I have confirmed my
diagnosis that due to the spring tension the torsion shaft does slip
to the right. I tried to remove the end bearing plates but I am
unable to get my LHS pulley off to get it completely off and put a new
one. I also checked on the net but wherever I went they don't have
end bearing plates like mine, maybe my door is really very old. They
are simply like a "D" lying on its back and hole to let the shaft
through and two holes to pin it to the contraption that is holding the
rails in place. It does not have the two sets of holes to allow R =
12" or R = 15" selection like the current end-bearing plates do.

Last but one weekend ago, I have re-installed the door taking care
that the rod is in its rightmost position (so that there is no
slippage after I wind the spring). I have used the door manually and
it works but as soon as I hook the GDO it starts making sounds that
make me feel uneasy... I have kept the usage to the minimum..

Can I post photos of my situation on this forum?

It might be in your best interest to change from a one spring setup to two
springs. As the spring is wound, it grows (wire size x amount of turns
wound onto spring = length of growth). With a one spring setup as the door
is opened and closed the spring either shrinks or grows causing the shaft to
shift putting pressure on the bearing plate with the drum. With a two
spring setup the shaft will stay put since the growth and shrinkage will
counteract each other.

Rich
http://www.garagedoorsupply.com



"Amol" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Mar 22, 12:20 pm, yourname wrote:
wrote:
On Mar 20, 7:49 pm, PaPaPeng wrote:
On Tue, 20 Mar 2007 21:24:48 GMT, PaPaPeng wrote:
On 20 Mar 2007 14:07:50 -0700, wrote:
I noticed this time that the cable drum on the left hand side
(facing
the door from inside the garage) was touching the bracket and that
was
causing the whole problem. I checked both cable drums and they were
rock solid.
It should be possible to unseat the drum set screws and move the drum
to a spot where it doesn't rub against anything. Or else use that
opportunity to remove a bit of material or bend the bracket just
enough not to be in the way of the pulley drum.
One more suggestion. Is it possible to file down the cable drum rim
so that it doesn't bind anymore? Of course make sure there is enough
rim left not to let the cable slip out.

No, I don't think that will solve my problem because the whole shaft
is moving to the right after a few days. Filing the drum will give me
another day before the problem recurs (if I read you right). Thanks
for everyone's thoughts... I guess I have to get the new door

jezzuus guys, there is a setscrew that holds the shaft to the center
bearing, or the end of the spring to the shaft or whatver that is
supposed to keep it in place. It is not meant to float- Hide quoted
text -

- Show quoted text -

I checked the bushings as Richard (above) suggested but I can't seem
to find anything wrong. I oiled the whole thing last to last
weekend. BUT, I can see that the torsion shaft can be moved to the
right if I try pulling on it from the right. So, I have confirmed my
diagnosis that due to the spring tension the torsion shaft does slip
to the right. I tried to remove the end bearing plates but I am
unable to get my LHS pulley off to get it completely off and put a new
one. I also checked on the net but wherever I went they don't have
end bearing plates like mine, maybe my door is really very old. They
are simply like a "D" lying on its back and hole to let the shaft
through and two holes to pin it to the contraption that is holding the
rails in place. It does not have the two sets of holes to allow R =
12" or R = 15" selection like the current end-bearing plates do.

Last but one weekend ago, I have re-installed the door taking care
that the rod is in its rightmost position (so that there is no
slippage after I wind the spring). I have used the door manually and
it works but as soon as I hook the GDO it starts making sounds that
make me feel uneasy... I have kept the usage to the minimum..

Can I post photos of my situation on this forum?