Tub is leaking around the periphery of the drain flange. My understanding
is these screw down. If I could I'ld like to remove it, put a new gasket
and/or sealant under it and screw it back down. But it doesn't budge
either way. I don't want to break it because there is no access to the
area behind or under the tube as it's boxed in by the wall AND there is a
similarly installed tub back to back (head to head one might say) on the
other side of the double thick wall in the other lav.

I might try harder if I knew for sure they are standardized (this
installation dates from 1957) and if it breaks I can just get another and
screw it down without need to replace the other parts. But maybe I should
just leave it alone and shoot some sealant under the edge of the drain
flange. Is there something that is especially ideal for this?

Steve Kraus wrote:

Tub is leaking around the periphery of the drain flange. My understanding
is these screw down. If I could I'ld like to remove it, put a new gasket
and/or sealant under it and screw it back down. But it doesn't budge
either way. I don't want to break it because there is no access to the
area behind or under the tube as it's boxed in by the wall AND there is a
similarly installed tub back to back (head to head one might say) on the
other side of the double thick wall in the other lav.

I might try harder if I knew for sure they are standardized (this
installation dates from 1957) and if it breaks I can just get another and
screw it down without need to replace the other parts. But maybe I should
just leave it alone and shoot some sealant under the edge of the drain
flange. Is there something that is especially ideal for this?


Yep, you're in a tight spot.

The sealant option is the one with lowest risk.
I would work some dental floss around the perimeter
to try and make a small gap first. The drain fitting
is usually sealed on top with plumbers putty.

After that, use a powerful hair dryer to dry out
the gap. Then inject silicone sealant and work in with
fingers. Clear silicone may be best here.

Jim

On Mar 16, 7:37 pm, Steve Kraus
wrote:
Tub is leaking around the periphery of the drain flange. My understanding
is these screw down. If I could I'ld like to remove it, put a new gasket
and/or sealant under it and screw it back down. But it doesn't budge
either way. I don't want to break it because there is no access to the
area behind or under the tube as it's boxed in by the wall AND there is a
similarly installed tub back to back (head to head one might say) on the
other side of the double thick wall in the other lav.

I might try harder if I knew for sure they are standardized (this
installation dates from 1957) and if it breaks I can just get another and
screw it down without need to replace the other parts. But maybe I should
just leave it alone and shoot some sealant under the edge of the drain
flange. Is there something that is especially ideal for this?

On Mar 16, 8:38�pm, "Lawrence" wrote:
On Mar 16, 7:37 pm, Steve Kraus
wrote:



Tub is leaking around the periphery of the drain flange. *My understanding
is these screw down. *If I could I'ld like to remove it, put a new gasket
and/or sealant under it and screw it back down. *But it doesn't budge
either way. *I don't want to break it because there is no access to the
area behind or under the tube as it's boxed in by the wall AND there is a
similarly installed tub back to back (head to head one might say) on the
other side of the double thick wall in the other lav. *

I might try harder if I knew for sure they are standardized (this
installation dates from 1957) and if it breaks I can just get another and
screw it down without need to replace the other parts. *But maybe I should
just leave it alone and shoot some sealant under the edge of the drain
flange. *Is there something that is especially ideal for this?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Its highly likely that what you believe is a flange leak is
really ;line failure. It happened here and will get worse.

Have you opened the cieling below? the parts are standarized.

at that age you may have a drum trap, they rot away, but can be easily
replaced with a PVC P trap.

the lines in mine were brass, after a long time they rot.

Its time to open the cieling and redo the area. you will find
multiple areas of interest and might as well do the whole thing at one
time.

I do some plumbing but given the access hassles had a real plumber
redo mine about 11 years ago.

just recently it started leaking again, cieling fell down

The cast iron lines are begining to perforate, and the whole drain
line needs replaced probably to the basement, my home was built in
1950. I did a temp fix for now and left the cieling down.

If you can tolerate it install a access panel in the area, it will
fail again.

inciodently the drain you see is attached to a foot, most likely
brass, it along with everything slowly rots away. even some copper
lines have pinhole leaks.

note if you replace the cast iron lines with PVC you WILL HEAR LOTS OF
NOISE, when water flows

Hubless cast iron is available, if noise is a concern. no leading in
and such, just clamps together

On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 00:37:36 GMT, Steve Kraus
wrote:

Tub is leaking around the periphery of the drain flange. My understanding

How do you know? Is it leaking downstairs? How do you know it is
leaking AT the drain flange?

I would try to seal it, because you can always break into it later.

How do you know? Is it leaking downstairs? How do you know it is
leaking AT the drain flange?

Water was leaking from the tub and coming out from under walls in adjoining
rooms.

I did a test where I removed the drain strainer thing and sealed off the
normal opening (but not beyond) with aluminum tape. I ran about a gallon
into the tub and watched the level drop. I think it was gone in just over
a minute. Surprisingly, given the very small water level, I actually saw a
very tiny vortex (whirlpool) develop over the left edge of the drain
flange!