Hi there, not sure if you'd be able to help me with this, but I'm having
trouble installing this thermostat unit (
http://customer.honeywell.com/honeyw...spx/W8665A1009
http://customer.honeywell.com/honeyw...spx/T8665A1002
)
.. I have a simple 2 wire system running to a boiler with rads. The
thermostat is connecting to the receiver (wirelessly) as per the appropriate
blinking lights, and it will make a call for heat for only 10 seconds or so.
After that the receiver shuts down the call, but the thermostat unit is
still sending a call. I figured that out by seeing if there was power
flowing through the return (which only happens for about 10 seconds). I'm
not sure if it's a problem with setting up the thermostat unit, the
receiver, or the furnace. I can start the furnace if I complete the
thermostat circut. I'm not sure where to go from here.

If anyone could provide any guidance I would truely appreciate it.

Mark

In article , "Mark Rullo" wrote:
Hi there, not sure if you'd be able to help me with this, but I'm having
trouble installing this thermostat unit (
http://customer.honeywell.com/honeyw...spx/W8665A1009
http://customer.honeywell.com/honeyw...spx/T8665A1002
)
. I have a simple 2 wire system running to a boiler with rads. The
thermostat is connecting to the receiver (wirelessly) as per the appropriate
blinking lights, and it will make a call for heat for only 10 seconds or so.
After that the receiver shuts down the call, but the thermostat unit is
still sending a call. I figured that out by seeing if there was power
flowing through the return (which only happens for about 10 seconds). I'm
not sure if it's a problem with setting up the thermostat unit, the
receiver, or the furnace. I can start the furnace if I complete the
thermostat circut. I'm not sure where to go from here.

Try moving the transmitter closer to the receiver!

It sounds like... thermostat tells the furnace to light
up. Then the electrical noise generated by the furnace
is causing the thermostat to loose contact with the base
station thereby causing the furnace to shut down.

If it works as intended at close range, you've got a
transmission range problem.

--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Hi Malcom, I appreciate your prompt reply. My transmitter is about 8
ft from my receiver. The instructions explicitly say it must be more
than 5 ft away.

I just called the Honeywell tech support line and they're not very
helpful at all.

I spoke with a friend of a friend who's an HVAC guy and he said I
should check my flame sensor. He said if the heater shuts down after
about 10-30 sec then pull out the flame sensor and sand down teh grime.
I'm gonig to do that tonight and post the results.

Mark

Malcolm Hoar wrote:
In article , "Mark Rullo" wrote:
Hi there, not sure if you'd be able to help me with this, but I'm having
trouble installing this thermostat unit (
http://customer.honeywell.com/honeyw...spx/W8665A1009
http://customer.honeywell.com/honeyw...spx/T8665A1002
)
. I have a simple 2 wire system running to a boiler with rads. The
thermostat is connecting to the receiver (wirelessly) as per the appropriate
blinking lights, and it will make a call for heat for only 10 seconds or so.
After that the receiver shuts down the call, but the thermostat unit is
still sending a call. I figured that out by seeing if there was power
flowing through the return (which only happens for about 10 seconds). I'm
not sure if it's a problem with setting up the thermostat unit, the
receiver, or the furnace. I can start the furnace if I complete the
thermostat circut. I'm not sure where to go from here.

Try moving the transmitter closer to the receiver!

It sounds like... thermostat tells the furnace to light
up. Then the electrical noise generated by the furnace
is causing the thermostat to loose contact with the base
station thereby causing the furnace to shut down.

If it works as intended at close range, you've got a
transmission range problem.

--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

In article .com, "Mark" wrote:
Hi Malcom, I appreciate your prompt reply. My transmitter is about 8
ft from my receiver. The instructions explicitly say it must be more
than 5 ft away.

I just called the Honeywell tech support line and they're not very
helpful at all.

I spoke with a friend of a friend who's an HVAC guy and he said I
should check my flame sensor. He said if the heater shuts down after
about 10-30 sec then pull out the flame sensor and sand down teh grime.
I'm gonig to do that tonight and post the results.

Yes, but you seemed to suggest that the furnace was okay
if you manually close the thermostat circuit. If so, I'd
still suspect a transmission problem -- and still try
moving the thermostat/transmitter around since that's
a pretty easy experiment to conduct.

--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Hi Malcom,
I didn't mean to doubt you. I actually just got done fighting with it
for another night. I tried your suggestion and no such luck. The Red
light comes on solid, I can hear the furnace clicking and doing what it
does when I manually close the circut. Before the pilot light is lit,
the red light fades away and the furnace does not come on. I'm
boggled.

Mark

Malcolm Hoar wrote:
In article .com, "Mark" wrote:
Hi Malcom, I appreciate your prompt reply. My transmitter is about 8
ft from my receiver. The instructions explicitly say it must be more
than 5 ft away.

I just called the Honeywell tech support line and they're not very
helpful at all.

I spoke with a friend of a friend who's an HVAC guy and he said I
should check my flame sensor. He said if the heater shuts down after
about 10-30 sec then pull out the flame sensor and sand down teh grime.
I'm gonig to do that tonight and post the results.

Yes, but you seemed to suggest that the furnace was okay
if you manually close the thermostat circuit. If so, I'd
still suspect a transmission problem -- and still try
moving the thermostat/transmitter around since that's
a pretty easy experiment to conduct.

--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

In article .com, "Mark" wrote:
Hi Malcom,
I didn't mean to doubt you. I actually just got done fighting with it
for another night. I tried your suggestion and no such luck. The Red
light comes on solid, I can hear the furnace clicking and doing what it
does when I manually close the circut. Before the pilot light is lit,
the red light fades away and the furnace does not come on. I'm
boggled.

Okay, well that problem definitely doesn't appear to be
related to the wireless thermostat. It's the flame sensor
or some other safety device within the furnace.

I saw those same symptons on my own furnace one day
last winter during some exceptionally high winds. The
problem went away after the wind subsided AND I
briefly disconnected power from the furnace to force
some kind of reset.

--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I should be more specific, the red light on the thermostat receiver.
(sigh)

When I close the circut manually, the system does it's thing like it
should. When I hook it up to this new thermostat system, things
fizzle..:|

Mark

Malcolm Hoar wrote:
In article .com, "Mark" wrote:
Hi Malcom,
I didn't mean to doubt you. I actually just got done fighting with it
for another night. I tried your suggestion and no such luck. The Red
light comes on solid, I can hear the furnace clicking and doing what it
does when I manually close the circut. Before the pilot light is lit,
the red light fades away and the furnace does not come on. I'm
boggled.

Okay, well that problem definitely doesn't appear to be
related to the wireless thermostat. It's the flame sensor
or some other safety device within the furnace.

I saw those same symptons on my own furnace one day
last winter during some exceptionally high winds. The
problem went away after the wind subsided AND I
briefly disconnected power from the furnace to force
some kind of reset.

--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Mark Rullo wrote:
Hi there, not sure if you'd be able to help me with this, but I'm having
trouble installing this thermostat unit (
http://customer.honeywell.com/honeyw...spx/W8665A1009
http://customer.honeywell.com/honeyw...spx/T8665A1002
)
. I have a simple 2 wire system running to a boiler with rads. The
thermostat is connecting to the receiver (wirelessly) as per the appropriate
blinking lights, and it will make a call for heat for only 10 seconds or so.
After that the receiver shuts down the call, but the thermostat unit is
still sending a call. I figured that out by seeing if there was power
flowing through the return (which only happens for about 10 seconds). I'm
not sure if it's a problem with setting up the thermostat unit, the
receiver, or the furnace. I can start the furnace if I complete the
thermostat circut. I'm not sure where to go from here.

If anyone could provide any guidance I would truely appreciate it.

Mark



Hi,
First of all, have you read the whole manual?

Malcolm Hoar wrote:

In article , "Mark Rullo" wrote:

Hi there, not sure if you'd be able to help me with this, but I'm having
trouble installing this thermostat unit (
http://customer.honeywell.com/honeyw...spx/W8665A1009
http://customer.honeywell.com/honeyw...spx/T8665A1002
)
. I have a simple 2 wire system running to a boiler with rads. The
thermostat is connecting to the receiver (wirelessly) as per the appropriate
blinking lights, and it will make a call for heat for only 10 seconds or so.
After that the receiver shuts down the call, but the thermostat unit is
still sending a call. I figured that out by seeing if there was power
flowing through the return (which only happens for about 10 seconds). I'm
not sure if it's a problem with setting up the thermostat unit, the
receiver, or the furnace. I can start the furnace if I complete the
thermostat circut. I'm not sure where to go from here.


Try moving the transmitter closer to the receiver!

It sounds like... thermostat tells the furnace to light
up. Then the electrical noise generated by the furnace
is causing the thermostat to loose contact with the base
station thereby causing the furnace to shut down.

If it works as intended at close range, you've got a
transmission range problem.

Hi,
You mean it is 2 way radio? Thermostat can receive/send sginals to
base station?

Mark wrote:

Hi Malcom, I appreciate your prompt reply. My transmitter is about 8
ft from my receiver. The instructions explicitly say it must be more
than 5 ft away.

I just called the Honeywell tech support line and they're not very
helpful at all.

I spoke with a friend of a friend who's an HVAC guy and he said I
should check my flame sensor. He said if the heater shuts down after
about 10-30 sec then pull out the flame sensor and sand down teh grime.
I'm gonig to do that tonight and post the results.

Mark

Malcolm Hoar wrote:

In article , "Mark Rullo" wrote:

Hi there, not sure if you'd be able to help me with this, but I'm having
trouble installing this thermostat unit (
http://customer.honeywell.com/honeyw...spx/W8665A1009
http://customer.honeywell.com/honeyw...spx/T8665A1002
)
. I have a simple 2 wire system running to a boiler with rads. The
thermostat is connecting to the receiver (wirelessly) as per the appropriate
blinking lights, and it will make a call for heat for only 10 seconds or so.
After that the receiver shuts down the call, but the thermostat unit is
still sending a call. I figured that out by seeing if there was power
flowing through the return (which only happens for about 10 seconds). I'm
not sure if it's a problem with setting up the thermostat unit, the
receiver, or the furnace. I can start the furnace if I complete the
thermostat circut. I'm not sure where to go from here.

Try moving the transmitter closer to the receiver!

It sounds like... thermostat tells the furnace to light
up. Then the electrical noise generated by the furnace
is causing the thermostat to loose contact with the base
station thereby causing the furnace to shut down.

If it works as intended at close range, you've got a
transmission range problem.

--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Hi,
If flame sensor is not working, you'll get trouble code on the furnace.
You said manually furnace works!

Mark wrote:

Hi Malcom,
I didn't mean to doubt you. I actually just got done fighting with it
for another night. I tried your suggestion and no such luck. The Red
light comes on solid, I can hear the furnace clicking and doing what it
does when I manually close the circut. Before the pilot light is lit,
the red light fades away and the furnace does not come on. I'm
boggled.

Mark

Malcolm Hoar wrote:

In article .com, "Mark" wrote:

Hi Malcom, I appreciate your prompt reply. My transmitter is about 8
ft from my receiver. The instructions explicitly say it must be more
than 5 ft away.

I just called the Honeywell tech support line and they're not very
helpful at all.

I spoke with a friend of a friend who's an HVAC guy and he said I
should check my flame sensor. He said if the heater shuts down after
about 10-30 sec then pull out the flame sensor and sand down teh grime.
I'm gonig to do that tonight and post the results.

Yes, but you seemed to suggest that the furnace was okay
if you manually close the thermostat circuit. If so, I'd
still suspect a transmission problem -- and still try
moving the thermostat/transmitter around since that's
a pretty easy experiment to conduct.

--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Hi,
What do you mean pilot light is lit? I am confused now. What kind of
furnace do you have?

In article .com, "Mark" wrote:
I should be more specific, the red light on the thermostat receiver.
(sigh)

Oh. I thought you meant the red glow from the ignition system.

When I close the circut manually, the system does it's thing like it
should. When I hook it up to this new thermostat system, things
fizzle..:|

Well, now it sounds more like a problem with the wiring
between the furnace and the wireless base station or
tje base station itself.

How is the wireless base station powered? If it's a
battery, try replacing it. If it's stealing power
from the furnace, maybe it's not getting enough power
when (a) the furnace is operating and/or (b) the
base station is trying to activate the furnace.

I assume the base station has only to close a circuit
to activiate the furnace. Is is doing that? Is it
holding a closed state? Does the closed state have a
sufficiently low resistance?

--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Yes, about 3 times over. (sigh)
Mark

Tony Hwang wrote:
Mark Rullo wrote:
Hi there, not sure if you'd be able to help me with this, but I'm having
trouble installing this thermostat unit (
http://customer.honeywell.com/honeyw...spx/W8665A1009
http://customer.honeywell.com/honeyw...spx/T8665A1002
)
. I have a simple 2 wire system running to a boiler with rads. The
thermostat is connecting to the receiver (wirelessly) as per the appropriate
blinking lights, and it will make a call for heat for only 10 seconds or so.
After that the receiver shuts down the call, but the thermostat unit is
still sending a call. I figured that out by seeing if there was power
flowing through the return (which only happens for about 10 seconds). I'm
not sure if it's a problem with setting up the thermostat unit, the
receiver, or the furnace. I can start the furnace if I complete the
thermostat circut. I'm not sure where to go from here.

If anyone could provide any guidance I would truely appreciate it.

Mark



Hi,
First of all, have you read the whole manual?

Tony:
How do I check the trouble code on the furnace? Also, how does the
furnace send the trouble code to the thermostat receiver?

Mark

Tony Hwang wrote:
Hi,
If flame sensor is not working, you'll get trouble code on the furnace.
You said manually furnace works!

Malcolm Hoar wrote:
In article .com, "Mark" wrote:
I should be more specific, the red light on the thermostat receiver.
(sigh)

Oh. I thought you meant the red glow from the ignition system.

When I close the circut manually, the system does it's thing like it
should. When I hook it up to this new thermostat system, things
fizzle..:|

Well, now it sounds more like a problem with the wiring
between the furnace and the wireless base station or
tje base station itself.

How is the wireless base station powered? If it's a
battery, try replacing it. If it's stealing power
from the furnace, maybe it's not getting enough power
when (a) the furnace is operating and/or (b) the
base station is trying to activate the furnace.

The base station is powered by the furnace. That sounds like a good
theory. I'll have to test that out. That would explain the light
fizzleing(sp?) out.

I assume the base station has only to close a circuit
to activiate the furnace. Is is doing that? Is it
holding a closed state? Does the closed state have a
sufficiently low resistance?

It seems that the base station is closing the circut, but it's not held
in that closed state. I'm not sure how to check the resistance on the
line. If it helps, it's a real short run of wiring to the unit.

You've been a great help thus far with suggestions and I really
appreciate it. Could I get your opinion on the following?
This is the manual
(http://customer.honeywell.com/Techli...s/69-1630.pdf).
I'm trying to set this up as per figure 2 on page 3. My question is do
I have to join Y/W/G and C to the return and R to the hot, or is it
just R and C that I should be concerned with?

I've tried both scinarios, but when connecting Y/W/G/C to the return, I
can't get the thermostat to connect to wirelessly the base station.
When I just use R/C I get the fizzle problem.

I figured 2 wires and I'd have a warm house. That hasn't been the
case!

Mark

"Mark" wrote in message
ups.com...
The base station is powered by the furnace. That sounds like a good
theory. I'll have to test that out. That would explain the light
fizzleing(sp?) out.

Aha, that's your problem. I had the same issue on my thermostat (not
wireless, but steals power from the furnace). The solution is that you need
to add a resistor across the terminals inside the furnace. Unfortunately I
remember neither the value of the resistor nor the specific wiring
arrangement. But hopefully that will start you along the right track.

-Tim

Wow, that sounds complicated! It's looking more and more like I'll
have to leave it to a pro. Unfortunately I can't get anyone in there
until Tues.

I'm really iritated with the Honeywell support regarding this item. I
called them and they said this is a professionally avalilable product
and only a pro can call us up for support. I think that's a load of
garbage.

I was really hoping for my wallet (and my machismo) that I could take
care of the issue.

Thanks for the input Tim

Mark

Tim Fischer wrote:
"Mark" wrote in message
ups.com...
The base station is powered by the furnace. That sounds like a good
theory. I'll have to test that out. That would explain the light
fizzleing(sp?) out.

Aha, that's your problem. I had the same issue on my thermostat (not
wireless, but steals power from the furnace). The solution is that you need
to add a resistor across the terminals inside the furnace. Unfortunately I
remember neither the value of the resistor nor the specific wiring
arrangement. But hopefully that will start you along the right track.

-Tim

"Mark" wrote in message
ups.com...
Wow, that sounds complicated! It's looking more and more like I'll
have to leave it to a pro. Unfortunately I can't get anyone in there
until Tues.

It's not complicated, you just need to know the specifics, which I no longer
have handy. Mine is also a Honeywell and not only did the manual talk about
this situation, it came with the resistor. Mine was a model that's only
supposed to be sold to/installed by pros, but I got it off of a dealer on
eBay and put it in myself.

Furnace techs are going to be pretty busy right now, so maybe if you called
around and got one on the line they can tell you the mystery resistor value
and where it needs to go, and they wouldn't be as worried about losing a
service call. Otherwise Honeywell support SHOULD be able to tell you this.
Maybe if you call and specifically mention the resistor, and demand to be
forwarded on to someone who at least recognizes that they sell other models
that require this...

-Tim

Thanks for the input Tim. Unfortunately I didn't get a resistor with
my thermostat. Mine is also bought from e-bay and is suposed to be
installed by a pro. Unfortunately my manual doesn't mention anything
about a resistor.

By my findings, I'm tending to agree with you more and more. Tonight,
I had to hook up a wired thermostat just to get the heat on. This
thermostat requires batteries, and works flawlessly.

Regarding the call to Honeywell, I did call them and they weren't too
helpful. Even when I presented all the facts to the call centre
attendant, she told me that I would have to get a pro to call.
Rediculous. I'll have to give it another shot though.

Mark


Tim Fischer wrote:
"Mark" wrote in message
ups.com...
Wow, that sounds complicated! It's looking more and more like I'll
have to leave it to a pro. Unfortunately I can't get anyone in there
until Tues.

It's not complicated, you just need to know the specifics, which I no longer
have handy. Mine is also a Honeywell and not only did the manual talk about
this situation, it came with the resistor. Mine was a model that's only
supposed to be sold to/installed by pros, but I got it off of a dealer on
eBay and put it in myself.

Furnace techs are going to be pretty busy right now, so maybe if you called
around and got one on the line they can tell you the mystery resistor value
and where it needs to go, and they wouldn't be as worried about losing a
service call. Otherwise Honeywell support SHOULD be able to tell you this.
Maybe if you call and specifically mention the resistor, and demand to be
forwarded on to someone who at least recognizes that they sell other models
that require this...

-Tim

I should post the solution that my furnace fuy came up with. I had it
wired slightly incorrectly. I wired it with the hot going to the R and
the return (not sure what to call it exactly) going to the C. These
were the original 2 wires comming from my furnace that connected to my
old thermostat. My problem was that I should have connected my return
to the W terminal and a direct line to the 24v transformer's return to
the C. Well that did it. Simple fix.

If you want it to work, just wire it properly..

Mark

Mark wrote:
Thanks for the input Tim. Unfortunately I didn't get a resistor with
my thermostat. Mine is also bought from e-bay and is suposed to be
installed by a pro. Unfortunately my manual doesn't mention anything
about a resistor.

By my findings, I'm tending to agree with you more and more. Tonight,
I had to hook up a wired thermostat just to get the heat on. This
thermostat requires batteries, and works flawlessly.

Regarding the call to Honeywell, I did call them and they weren't too
helpful. Even when I presented all the facts to the call centre
attendant, she told me that I would have to get a pro to call.
Rediculous. I'll have to give it another shot though.

Mark


Tim Fischer wrote:
"Mark" wrote in message
ups.com...
Wow, that sounds complicated! It's looking more and more like I'll
have to leave it to a pro. Unfortunately I can't get anyone in there
until Tues.

It's not complicated, you just need to know the specifics, which I no longer
have handy. Mine is also a Honeywell and not only did the manual talk about
this situation, it came with the resistor. Mine was a model that's only
supposed to be sold to/installed by pros, but I got it off of a dealer on
eBay and put it in myself.

Furnace techs are going to be pretty busy right now, so maybe if you called
around and got one on the line they can tell you the mystery resistor value
and where it needs to go, and they wouldn't be as worried about losing a
service call. Otherwise Honeywell support SHOULD be able to tell you this.
Maybe if you call and specifically mention the resistor, and demand to be
forwarded on to someone who at least recognizes that they sell other models
that require this...

-Tim

"Mark" wrote in message
oups.com...
I should post the solution that my furnace fuy came up with. I had it
wired slightly incorrectly. I wired it with the hot going to the R and
the return (not sure what to call it exactly) going to the C. These
were the original 2 wires comming from my furnace that connected to my
old thermostat. My problem was that I should have connected my return
to the W terminal and a direct line to the 24v transformer's return to
the C. Well that did it. Simple fix.

If you want it to work, just wire it properly..

So you had to run a new wire? Many setups don't have the "direct line from
the transformer's return". My setup was designed to steal power through the
'hot' and 'call for heat' wires for setups like mine that didn't have the
direct connection to the xformer minus. In some setups like mine, you
needed to bridge the gas valve with a resistor so it would maintain current
at all times.

Anyway, glad you got it working (and glad I didn't have to run a new wire!)

-Tim