Great idea, using the chunks of 2x4 to mark the spot and support new
stringers, thanks.

You also made me realize that 4" wide pickets would go up faster,
versus the 2.5 inch pickets that are there now. Since I'm replacing
the entire fence, no reason to stay with same size.

Any opinions on plastic lumber/vinyl fence products? I realize they
cost more, are they worth it compared to pressure-treated standard
wood?




On Sat, 26 Aug 2006 09:28:25 -0500, Tom Kendrick
wrote:

This will be quicker with another person to help but it can be done
solo using screws and nails. Use short blocks of 2x4 in place of the
other person.

LJ wrote:

Any opinions on plastic lumber/vinyl fence products? I realize they
cost more, are they worth it compared to pressure-treated standard
wood?


I wouldn't want a 6' plastic privacy fence
too much plastic you know...it would become an elephant standing around
that's alot of recycled milk jugs to look at

with wood you get the warmth and inner fuzzy feeling that wood offers

wood can be made to last a lifetime if you keep it treated

after you install the treated lumber, let it dry for a season
catch it on a nice dry period, where you feel sure no moisture is in
the wood
spray a wood preservative on it... it will maintain it's natural color
and not turn brown.
do this once a year.. this is also going to add beauty and value your
property
(I like using deck boards for the fabric or pickets)

I like using the better cuts lumber suppliers offer, most offer 2
grades of lumber
, so for a few dimes more you get a much nicer looking board, which is
less work installing.. every board you put your hand on is useable..
you're not ducking twisted and warped boards see... it's all good.
(normally)

I enjoy working with the finest materials I can get.

I also like being selective as to which side of the board will face
out, as well as where the board will go in the whole scheme, in other
words, you wouldnt' want a big black knot on the front side
neccessarily. but with better cuts, you won't see very much of that.

Im sure you know.. spray/brush on preservatives come in colors too woo
woo

why not consider this.. use a 1 5/4" x 6" deck board for each picket,
use coated or vinyl coated screws... 2 per stringer, consider a 4th
stringer... (tighter to the top, tighter to the bottom) or not!

around here, it's cheaper to buy a 12 foot, 1 5/4" x 6" treated deck
board, and cut it in half, than it is to buy one 3/4" a 6" dog eared
fence board.. which is more than fine and can still last a life time,
but do expect some of them to curl and pull in about 4 years.

a deckboard is going to look robust... with preservatives it's going to
last a lifetime..

don't forget to waste money on screw in finials for each post!

figure about 50 - 60 bux for nice gate or drive-gate hardware.

post pics?

On Sat, 26 Aug 2006 17:34:45 -0400, LJ wrote:

Here's a money-saving idea:
Replace ONLY the horizontal boards.

Most of the cost of a fence is the vertical pickets. The posts,
concrete and horizontal boards are a much smaller percentage of the
cost. You may have to replace a few complete pickets, but the rotten
back side of the existing pickets need not be an issue.

You have 3 horizontal boards - top, middle, bottom. For middle and
bottom, ADD a treated 2x4 ABOVE the existing horizontal board. For the
top board, add it BELOW the existing board.

I recommend that you attach pickets to the new boards using screws OR
a pneumatic nailer. NOT a hammer. There is still some life in the
pickets - there is NO life in the horizontal stringers. Use 4" deck
screws to drive through the picket, new stringer and into the post.

Once the new stringers are in place and the pickets attached to them,
GENTLY remove the old dead stringers without breaking the pickets.
Save you a bundle it will.

I use 1-7/8" RS EG gun nails for the pickets and 3" RS HDG framing
nailer nails going into the posts. Deck screws rated for PT lumber
into the posts and stringers can be substituted if you do not have
access to pneumatic nailing equipment. DO NOT use too long a fastener
through the pickets, otherwise you will need to grind off protruding
nail/screw points on the back side. DAMHIKT.