I'm not even sure how to ask this, but I'll try.
I have one of these earth augers (power post hole diggers).
It has a 2 cycle 3HP engine, under the engine is a Centrifical Clutch,
and under that is some gears (transmission), and the auger (drill)
goes below that.

The problem is the clutch is not disengaging. When I pull the starter
rope the drill already turns, and when it does start, I'm already
digging which makes it impossible to have enough hands to set the
choke lever and control the thing. Because of this, it got away from
me, but finally killed after bouncing around on the ground for a
minute.

I took this cent... clutch apart. It works sort of like the rear
brakes (drum brakes) in a car. The engine connects to a round piece
of steel, there are two dogs that fit around it with pivot points, and
a spring on each end to keep the two halves together. I understand
the principle. When the engine turns fast, the springs stretch and
the dogs contact the "drum" surrounding it. Pretty much the same as
the way drum brakes contact the drum, except this is centrifical.

On disassembly, I found the assembly attaches to the engine shaft with
a set screw, and there is a key to lock it to the shaft. Everything
was in working order, no rust, good springs, everything clean.
However, the set screw had fallen out, so the whole thing was floating
in there. I got a new set screw, and tightened it well. I pushed the
assembly tight against the washer spacers on the engine shaft. I
noticed the indent from the original set screw was in that same exact
spot, so I know that's correct.

I put the whole thing back together only to find that it still will
not disengage. As I said, everything appears in perfect working order
on that clutch. This leaves me puzzled. I just dont know what else
to do with it.

Has anyone worked on these sort of things? What can I do with it?

One other thing. I am wondering if the whole clutch could be upside
down. I bought this auger at an auction, and the last owner could
have tampered with it. When I removed the clutch assembly, I noticed
that the upper part which contacts the spacers under the engine was
very smooth, whereas the bottom side showed some wear marks from being
loose (with that set screw out). I reassembled it the same way. This
entire clutch assembly could be flipped over and installed upside
down. It will fit either way. How can I tell which way is right?
This is where I dont know how to word this question.... (here goes my
best try). In relation to the rotation of the motor, how can I tell
which is the correct way to install it to make the dogs fly outward
when the engine speeds up? I can easily tell the rotation direction
by pulling the rope a little, but after that, I'm lost......

Finally, if the clutch assembly were backwards, I would suspect it
would not engage at all, rather than engage all the time. Is this
correct thinking?????

(Unfortunately this thing has no brand name, no model number, so I
cant even get a diagram for it).

Sure could use some help.....

Mark

wrote:
I'm not even sure how to ask this, but I'll try.
I have one of these earth augers (power post hole diggers).
It has a 2 cycle 3HP engine, under the engine is a Centrifical Clutch,
and under that is some gears (transmission), and the auger (drill)
goes below that.

Snipped for brevity
Sure could use some help.....

Mark



Centrifugal clutches wear out. It is probably done for. Take
it to a small engine repair place or a chain saw place. They
will be able to sell you a new one, usually off the shelf. If
not, they will be able to measure it and order one for you.

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

On Thu, 10 Aug 2006 05:48:17 GMT, Robert Allison
wrote:

wrote:
I'm not even sure how to ask this, but I'll try.
I have one of these earth augers (power post hole diggers).
It has a 2 cycle 3HP engine, under the engine is a Centrifical Clutch,
and under that is some gears (transmission), and the auger (drill)
goes below that.

Snipped for brevity
Sure could use some help.....

Mark



Centrifugal clutches wear out. It is probably done for. Take
it to a small engine repair place or a chain saw place. They
will be able to sell you a new one, usually off the shelf. If
not, they will be able to measure it and order one for you.

OK, I can see where they wear out. But when they wear out, wont they
NOT turn the shaft? Mine does not disengage.
I just spent the last 3 hours taking it apart twice again (the 4th and
5th time). I carefully made sure the clutch parts are all free and
working. The springs are right, everything moves freely, and there is
1/8 inch of clearance between the clutch and drum. There is no way
this clutch should be engaging when the engine is at idle. Yet it
does. I did notice that it was not going all the way back in (to it's
seated or disabled mode). Only about 1/32 of an inch. I figured out
that it was hitting the new set screw I just put in there, and that
screw is just a tad longer than the original. I solved that by taking
off about 1/32 of metal from the rear part of the dog that touched the
screw (used a dreml tool with tiny grinder). It now seats properly.
It still does not disengage. I then took it apart again, and flipped
the whole clutch assembly over. Still got the same problem.

A small engine shop probably wont touch it. There is no brand name or
model number. Just a un-named machine with a Tecumseh engine.

I just tossed it in my scrap metal pile. The amount of time I spent
on it, I could have dug all 12 of my 3 foot deep holes with a hand
post hole digger. Actually, had I known that engine was a 2 cycle, I
would have never bid on the thing at the auction. I have always hated
everything that has a 2 cycle engine. I can cut a tree faster with a
hand saw than I have ever done fighting with chainsaws. In fact the
last tree I tried to cut with a chainsaw, I had to cut by hand. I was
so ****ed at that chainsaw I placed it under the tree, hoping the tree
trunk would crush it. The tree missed. Just my luck.

I am going to save the auger bit from this thing though. I already
figured how I can mount the auger to a pulley, put the pulley on a
steel plate with an electric motor, belt and pulley and have a belt
idler for the clutch. Electric tools are always better than gas,
unless there's no power nearby. In my case there almost always is, if
not, it's back to hand tools.

Mark

I suspect that the springs have lost their original tension and that low
RPMs, such as idle speed, is suficiant to allow the weights to be applied.
Think about it. If the springs were say too heavy, the clutch would not,
could not, engauge. The reverse would be true if the springs were too light
or have lost their tension.

wrote in message
...
On Thu, 10 Aug 2006 05:48:17 GMT, Robert Allison
wrote:

wrote:
I'm not even sure how to ask this, but I'll try.
I have one of these earth augers (power post hole diggers).
It has a 2 cycle 3HP engine, under the engine is a Centrifical Clutch,
and under that is some gears (transmission), and the auger (drill)
goes below that.

Snipped for brevity
Sure could use some help.....

Mark



Centrifugal clutches wear out. It is probably done for. Take
it to a small engine repair place or a chain saw place. They
will be able to sell you a new one, usually off the shelf. If
not, they will be able to measure it and order one for you.

OK, I can see where they wear out. But when they wear out, wont they
NOT turn the shaft? Mine does not disengage.
I just spent the last 3 hours taking it apart twice again (the 4th and
5th time). I carefully made sure the clutch parts are all free and
working. The springs are right, everything moves freely, and there is
1/8 inch of clearance between the clutch and drum. There is no way
this clutch should be engaging when the engine is at idle. Yet it
does. I did notice that it was not going all the way back in (to it's
seated or disabled mode). Only about 1/32 of an inch. I figured out
that it was hitting the new set screw I just put in there, and that
screw is just a tad longer than the original. I solved that by taking
off about 1/32 of metal from the rear part of the dog that touched the
screw (used a dreml tool with tiny grinder). It now seats properly.
It still does not disengage. I then took it apart again, and flipped
the whole clutch assembly over. Still got the same problem.

A small engine shop probably wont touch it. There is no brand name or
model number. Just a un-named machine with a Tecumseh engine.

I just tossed it in my scrap metal pile. The amount of time I spent
on it, I could have dug all 12 of my 3 foot deep holes with a hand
post hole digger. Actually, had I known that engine was a 2 cycle, I
would have never bid on the thing at the auction. I have always hated
everything that has a 2 cycle engine. I can cut a tree faster with a
hand saw than I have ever done fighting with chainsaws. In fact the
last tree I tried to cut with a chainsaw, I had to cut by hand. I was
so ****ed at that chainsaw I placed it under the tree, hoping the tree
trunk would crush it. The tree missed. Just my luck.

I am going to save the auger bit from this thing though. I already
figured how I can mount the auger to a pulley, put the pulley on a
steel plate with an electric motor, belt and pulley and have a belt
idler for the clutch. Electric tools are always better than gas,
unless there's no power nearby. In my case there almost always is, if
not, it's back to hand tools.

Mark

In article ,
) says...

A small engine shop probably wont touch it. There is no brand name or
model number. Just a un-named machine with a Tecumseh engine.

Centrifugal clutches are a stock item. So are the parts.

I just tossed it in my scrap metal pile. The amount of time I spent
on it, I could have dug all 12 of my 3 foot deep holes with a hand
post hole digger. Actually, had I known that engine was a 2 cycle, I
would have never bid on the thing at the auction. I have always hated
everything that has a 2 cycle engine.

AHAH! You bought someone else's junk. Chances are they tried to fix it
and screwed it up. Most likely they installed springs that are too
weak.

Too bad about you and 2-cycle engines. I find they are very reliable as
long as I never leave stale fuel in the tank or carb. Always run them
dry before putting them away. I have 2-cycle engines that have been
running reliably for decades, some so old they need a 16:1 mix.


--
For email, replace firstnamelastinitial
with my first name and last initial.

wrote in message
news
I'm not even sure how to ask this, but I'll try.
I have one of these earth augers (power post hole
diggers).
It has a 2 cycle 3HP engine, under the engine is a
Centrifical Clutch,
and under that is some gears (transmission), and the auger
(drill)
goes below that.

The problem is the clutch is not disengaging. When I pull
the starter
rope the drill already turns, and when it does start, I'm
already
digging which makes it impossible to have enough hands to
set the
choke lever and control the thing. Because of this, it
got away from
me, but finally killed after bouncing around on the ground
for a
minute.

I took this cent... clutch apart. It works sort of like
the rear
brakes (drum brakes) in a car. The engine connects to a
round piece
of steel, there are two dogs that fit around it with pivot
points, and
a spring on each end to keep the two halves together. I
understand
the principle. When the engine turns fast, the springs
stretch and
the dogs contact the "drum" surrounding it. Pretty much
the same as
the way drum brakes contact the drum, except this is
centrifical.

On disassembly, I found the assembly attaches to the
engine shaft with
a set screw, and there is a key to lock it to the shaft.
Everything
was in working order, no rust, good springs, everything
clean.
However, the set screw had fallen out, so the whole thing
was floating
in there. I got a new set screw, and tightened it well.
I pushed the
assembly tight against the washer spacers on the engine
shaft. I
noticed the indent from the original set screw was in that
same exact
spot, so I know that's correct.

I put the whole thing back together only to find that it
still will
not disengage. As I said, everything appears in perfect
working order
on that clutch. This leaves me puzzled. I just dont know
what else
to do with it.

Has anyone worked on these sort of things? What can I do
with it?

One other thing. I am wondering if the whole clutch could
be upside
down. I bought this auger at an auction, and the last
owner could
have tampered with it. When I removed the clutch
assembly, I noticed
that the upper part which contacts the spacers under the
engine was
very smooth, whereas the bottom side showed some wear
marks from being
loose (with that set screw out). I reassembled it the
same way. This
entire clutch assembly could be flipped over and installed
upside
down. It will fit either way. How can I tell which way
is right?
This is where I dont know how to word this question....
(here goes my
best try). In relation to the rotation of the motor, how
can I tell
which is the correct way to install it to make the dogs
fly outward
when the engine speeds up? I can easily tell the rotation
direction
by pulling the rope a little, but after that, I'm
lost......

Finally, if the clutch assembly were backwards, I would
suspect it
would not engage at all, rather than engage all the time.
Is this
correct thinking?????

(Unfortunately this thing has no brand name, no model
number, so I
cant even get a diagram for it).

Sure could use some help.....

Mark



It's possible that the engine is not idling slow enough to
allow it to disengage. Adjust the idle and see what happens.

Frank

I'll give your origonal $5 for it.

wrote in message
...
On Thu, 10 Aug 2006 07:28:04 -0700, Larry Caldwell
wrote:

In article ,
) says...

A small engine shop probably wont touch it. There is no brand name or
model number. Just a un-named machine with a Tecumseh engine.

Centrifugal clutches are a stock item. So are the parts.

I just tossed it in my scrap metal pile. The amount of time I spent
on it, I could have dug all 12 of my 3 foot deep holes with a hand
post hole digger. Actually, had I known that engine was a 2 cycle, I
would have never bid on the thing at the auction. I have always hated
everything that has a 2 cycle engine.

AHAH! You bought someone else's junk. Chances are they tried to fix it
and screwed it up. Most likely they installed springs that are too
weak.

Too bad about you and 2-cycle engines. I find they are very reliable as
long as I never leave stale fuel in the tank or carb. Always run them
dry before putting them away. I have 2-cycle engines that have been
running reliably for decades, some so old they need a 16:1 mix.


Yeah, I do think someone else f**ked something up on this thing, but I
can not see any possible reason what.....
This is one of those repairs that make a person rip their hair out.
It's not that the engine is idling too fast as someone suggested,
because it starts to turn the drill when I pull the rope. The springs
"could" be weak, but there is no way they are that loose that they are
going to release when I just pull the rope. Actually, those springs
seem very strong to me. In other words, it seems that they seem like
it would take considerable force to expand them.

The dogs (or shoes as I noticed them called on some websites). measure
2 7/8 inches diameter when attached as they should be. The drum they
sit inside of is 3 inches. That means there should be 1/8" of play.
The drum / shoes can not be off centered when the two halves are
bolted together because the bolts only go in on way and there is no
play from side to side.

I measured the depth, the diameter, everything else imaginable, and
there just is no explanation for this. I have just run out of ideas,
and do not know what to do any longer. Now that I am not totally
stressed out over it, I am going to take it over by a neighbor who
seems to be able to fix any large farm machinery. If he can fix those
big combines and stuff, maybe he can make sense of this. I surely
can't. As they say, two heads are better than one.

The bottom line is this. When a 2 7/8" circle is placed inside of a
3" circle, there should not be any side contact. Yet, there is.... I
guess?????????
Like I said, I've just run out of ideas.....
Using it the way it is now, is pretty dangerous too. I found that out
twice now when it got away from me. I also found that when it does
start to dig, the engine kills when it really starts to dig in. I
know the clutch is supposed to slip on heavy load, but it obviously
don't.

As for other 2 cycle engines, I have never had luck with them. Seems
everytime I need a chainsaw or weed whacker, it wont start. When I
heated with firewood, I spent more on chainsaw repairs than it cost me
to buy propane fuel for the furnace. That dont include the
frustration either. I'd get them fixed, they would work, then I dump
the gas when finished, add stabalizer, and a few weeks later I spend
hours pulling the rope and getting ****ed. At least the engine on
this auger is running. I'll give it that much.....
I just wish all engines were 4 cycle..... Must be some reason they
dont use 2 cycle engines on cars.....

Thanks for everyone's help.

Mark

If the clutch is not transmitting power by the normal surfaces, then there
has to be insufficient clearance lengthwise between the shafts or there is
a misalignment. Something rotating has to be touching something which is
supposed to be stationary. Can you check carefully as you put it together to
figure out where the contact is?

These diggers are not nearly as easy to use as one might think. Even the two
man type will give the users quite a workout unless the soil is very soft.
The reaction has to equal the digging force so if you can imagine how hard
it is to screw the auger into the ground, that is how hard you will have to
hold back on it. The only practical type of digger is mounted on a tractor
or other machine, in my opinion.
Don Young

wrote in message
...
On Thu, 10 Aug 2006 07:28:04 -0700, Larry Caldwell
wrote:

In article ,
) says...

A small engine shop probably wont touch it. There is no brand name or
model number. Just a un-named machine with a Tecumseh engine.

Centrifugal clutches are a stock item. So are the parts.

I just tossed it in my scrap metal pile. The amount of time I spent
on it, I could have dug all 12 of my 3 foot deep holes with a hand
post hole digger. Actually, had I known that engine was a 2 cycle, I
would have never bid on the thing at the auction. I have always hated
everything that has a 2 cycle engine.

AHAH! You bought someone else's junk. Chances are they tried to fix it
and screwed it up. Most likely they installed springs that are too
weak.

Too bad about you and 2-cycle engines. I find they are very reliable as
long as I never leave stale fuel in the tank or carb. Always run them
dry before putting them away. I have 2-cycle engines that have been
running reliably for decades, some so old they need a 16:1 mix.


Yeah, I do think someone else f**ked something up on this thing, but I
can not see any possible reason what.....
This is one of those repairs that make a person rip their hair out.
It's not that the engine is idling too fast as someone suggested,
because it starts to turn the drill when I pull the rope. The springs
"could" be weak, but there is no way they are that loose that they are
going to release when I just pull the rope. Actually, those springs
seem very strong to me. In other words, it seems that they seem like
it would take considerable force to expand them.

The dogs (or shoes as I noticed them called on some websites). measure
2 7/8 inches diameter when attached as they should be. The drum they
sit inside of is 3 inches. That means there should be 1/8" of play.
The drum / shoes can not be off centered when the two halves are
bolted together because the bolts only go in on way and there is no
play from side to side.

I measured the depth, the diameter, everything else imaginable, and
there just is no explanation for this. I have just run out of ideas,
and do not know what to do any longer. Now that I am not totally
stressed out over it, I am going to take it over by a neighbor who
seems to be able to fix any large farm machinery. If he can fix those
big combines and stuff, maybe he can make sense of this. I surely
can't. As they say, two heads are better than one.

The bottom line is this. When a 2 7/8" circle is placed inside of a
3" circle, there should not be any side contact. Yet, there is.... I
guess?????????
Like I said, I've just run out of ideas.....
Using it the way it is now, is pretty dangerous too. I found that out
twice now when it got away from me. I also found that when it does
start to dig, the engine kills when it really starts to dig in. I
know the clutch is supposed to slip on heavy load, but it obviously
don't.

As for other 2 cycle engines, I have never had luck with them. Seems
everytime I need a chainsaw or weed whacker, it wont start. When I
heated with firewood, I spent more on chainsaw repairs than it cost me
to buy propane fuel for the furnace. That dont include the
frustration either. I'd get them fixed, they would work, then I dump
the gas when finished, add stabalizer, and a few weeks later I spend
hours pulling the rope and getting ****ed. At least the engine on
this auger is running. I'll give it that much.....
I just wish all engines were 4 cycle..... Must be some reason they
dont use 2 cycle engines on cars.....

Thanks for everyone's help.

Mark


When it's together can you turn it with your hands?

Al

wrote in message
...
On Thu, 10 Aug 2006 07:28:04 -0700, Larry Caldwell
wrote:

In article ,
) says...

A small engine shop probably wont touch it. There is no brand name or
model number. Just a un-named machine with a Tecumseh engine.

Centrifugal clutches are a stock item. So are the parts.

I just tossed it in my scrap metal pile. The amount of time I spent
on it, I could have dug all 12 of my 3 foot deep holes with a hand
post hole digger. Actually, had I known that engine was a 2 cycle, I
would have never bid on the thing at the auction. I have always hated
everything that has a 2 cycle engine.

AHAH! You bought someone else's junk. Chances are they tried to fix it
and screwed it up. Most likely they installed springs that are too
weak.

Too bad about you and 2-cycle engines. I find they are very reliable as
long as I never leave stale fuel in the tank or carb. Always run them
dry before putting them away. I have 2-cycle engines that have been
running reliably for decades, some so old they need a 16:1 mix.


Yeah, I do think someone else f**ked something up on this thing, but I
can not see any possible reason what.....
This is one of those repairs that make a person rip their hair out.
It's not that the engine is idling too fast as someone suggested,
because it starts to turn the drill when I pull the rope. The springs
"could" be weak, but there is no way they are that loose that they are
going to release when I just pull the rope. Actually, those springs
seem very strong to me. In other words, it seems that they seem like
it would take considerable force to expand them.

The dogs (or shoes as I noticed them called on some websites). measure
2 7/8 inches diameter when attached as they should be. The drum they
sit inside of is 3 inches. That means there should be 1/8" of play.
The drum / shoes can not be off centered when the two halves are
bolted together because the bolts only go in on way and there is no
play from side to side.

I measured the depth, the diameter, everything else imaginable, and
there just is no explanation for this. I have just run out of ideas,
and do not know what to do any longer. Now that I am not totally
stressed out over it, I am going to take it over by a neighbor who
seems to be able to fix any large farm machinery. If he can fix those
big combines and stuff, maybe he can make sense of this. I surely
can't. As they say, two heads are better than one.

The bottom line is this. When a 2 7/8" circle is placed inside of a
3" circle, there should not be any side contact. Yet, there is.... I
guess?????????
Like I said, I've just run out of ideas.....
Using it the way it is now, is pretty dangerous too. I found that out
twice now when it got away from me. I also found that when it does
start to dig, the engine kills when it really starts to dig in. I
know the clutch is supposed to slip on heavy load, but it obviously
don't.

As for other 2 cycle engines, I have never had luck with them. Seems
everytime I need a chainsaw or weed whacker, it wont start. When I
heated with firewood, I spent more on chainsaw repairs than it cost me
to buy propane fuel for the furnace. That dont include the
frustration either. I'd get them fixed, they would work, then I dump
the gas when finished, add stabalizer, and a few weeks later I spend
hours pulling the rope and getting ****ed. At least the engine on
this auger is running. I'll give it that much.....
I just wish all engines were 4 cycle..... Must be some reason they
dont use 2 cycle engines on cars.....

Thanks for everyone's help.

Mark


well there you are...dumping the fuel only empties the tank...you should
then crank the machine to run all the fuel out of the carburetor.
The carb is what gets messed up.

"digitalmaster" wrote in message news:im8Dg.3127
well there you are...dumping the fuel only empties the tank...you should
then crank the machine to run all the fuel out of the carburetor.
The carb is what gets messed up.


I usually run the engine dry, turning on the choke as it starts to
falter to burn the last fuel it can get.

Bob