I am concerned with what to use for a water impervious finish of a teak
wooden top for a bathroom vanity. A paint specialistt suggested a
marine varnish. Another suggestion is to go with polyurethane. Is that
the same thing? Also, I am aware of using automotive clear coat as an
ultimate finish protector.
Any suggestions?

Post this in rec.boats. Seriously - you'll get real answers, and quickly.

wrote in message
oups.com...
I am concerned with what to use for a water impervious finish of a teak
wooden top for a bathroom vanity. A paint specialistt suggested a
marine varnish. Another suggestion is to go with polyurethane. Is that
the same thing? Also, I am aware of using automotive clear coat as an
ultimate finish protector.
Any suggestions?

rec.woodworking, too.

wrote in message
oups.com...
I am concerned with what to use for a water impervious finish of a teak
wooden top for a bathroom vanity. A paint specialistt suggested a
marine varnish. Another suggestion is to go with polyurethane. Is that
the same thing? Also, I am aware of using automotive clear coat as an
ultimate finish protector.
Any suggestions?

Marine spar varnish is a type of high quality polyurethane. I think what
makes it superior in wet locations is that it stays slightly soft and thus
is less likely to crack over time and allow water to get to the wood. it
also tends to leave a thicker coating and definitely cost more.

Teak is so dense, you could actually leave it unfinished or just oiled with
vegetable, linseed or teak oil (can leave a residual smell for a few weeks
after treating though) or other furniture oil applied regularly. Might
consider leaving it unfinished for a few months and if you change your mind,
you can just sand it and apply the varnish but you can't go the other way.


wrote in message
oups.com...
I am concerned with what to use for a water impervious finish of a teak
wooden top for a bathroom vanity. A paint specialistt suggested a
marine varnish. Another suggestion is to go with polyurethane. Is that
the same thing? Also, I am aware of using automotive clear coat as an
ultimate finish protector.
Any suggestions?

pipedown wrote:
Marine spar varnish is a type of high quality polyurethane.

I suppose that spar varnish made with polyurethane exists but it isn't
normal.

Spar varnish is made with more oil than normal so it dries softer and
more flexible because it is meant for spars. And spars bend.

The merit of polyurethane lies in its hardness. Hardness and
flexibility are mutually exclusive.

--

dadiOH
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"dadiOH" wrote in message
newsdHAg.7450$8v.4063@trnddc05...
pipedown wrote:
Marine spar varnish is a type of high quality polyurethane.

I suppose that spar varnish made with polyurethane exists but it isn't
normal.

Spar varnish is made with more oil than normal so it dries softer and
more flexible because it is meant for spars. And spars bend.

The merit of polyurethane lies in its hardness. Hardness and
flexibility are mutually exclusive.

Not all varnish is polyurethane, but all urethane is varnish. Minwax
Helmsman is an example of a polyurethane spar varnish.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
news:v0KAg.8$gB.3@trndny07...

"dadiOH" wrote in message
newsdHAg.7450$8v.4063@trnddc05...
pipedown wrote:
Marine spar varnish is a type of high quality polyurethane.

I suppose that spar varnish made with polyurethane exists but it isn't
normal.

Spar varnish is made with more oil than normal so it dries softer and
more flexible because it is meant for spars. And spars bend.

The merit of polyurethane lies in its hardness. Hardness and
flexibility are mutually exclusive.

Not all varnish is polyurethane, but all urethane is varnish. Minwax
Helmsman is an example of a polyurethane spar varnish.


I stand corrected, the traditional spar varnish is tung and linseed oil
modified by Phenolic resins. Didn't look deep enough to say the difference
between phenolic and urethane but when cured, both have similar appearance
and properties.

wrote:
I am concerned with what to use for a water impervious finish of a teak
wooden top for a bathroom vanity. A paint specialistt suggested a
marine varnish. Another suggestion is to go with polyurethane. Is that
the same thing? Also, I am aware of using automotive clear coat as an
ultimate finish protector.
Any suggestions?

I'd go with something like a Watco Danish Oil or Teak Oil and apply a
few coats. Use wet/dry sandpaper when applying the first couple of
coats. The sanding dust will create a slurry with the oil and will
provide a super smooth finish with no appreciable build up. It's also
the easiest thing to repair.

R