Looking at step 11:
http://www.rd.com/content/openConten...78&pageIndex=1

Are 6 passes really required or are there alternate methods of "concealing"
this type of joint?

Martik wrote:
Looking at step 11:
http://www.rd.com/content/openConten...78&pageIndex=1

Are 6 passes really required or are there alternate methods of
"concealing" this type of joint?

Personally I would be thrilled if I could do a good butt joint with only
six passes.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

It all depends on the level of finish you desire. Even taper
joints show up on long walls due to lighting. Butt joints are
much harder to disguise. If you really want to hide the butt
joints, stagger the joints to the mid point between studs, place
cardboard strips on the studs at each side of the joint, and use
butt buddies or other scrap stud/wafer strip/ ply strip to fasten
each side of the butt. This will recess the butt joints to a
similar condition to taper joints.

Regular quality butt joints can be done well with the tape coat
and 1 or 2 finish coats.
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Martik" wrote in message
news:vmaAg.151980$I61.24892@clgrps13...
Looking at step 11:
http://www.rd.com/content/openConten...78&pageIndex=1

Are 6 passes really required or are there alternate methods of
"concealing" this type of joint?

Martik wrote:
Looking at step 11:
http://www.rd.com/content/openConten...78&pageIndex=1

Are 6 passes really required or are there alternate methods of "concealing"
this type of joint?



The 6 passes shown in the article are not separate coats of mud --
they're the passes he makes with the trowel to get the first coat of mud
on the joint. You can finish just about any butt joint with three coats
of mud.

Not all butt joints are the same. You'll save yourself some time and mud
(and have a better joint) if you take a few seconds to see what you've
got before you start throwing mud at at.

1. Put the edge of the trowel or any 12" straight edge across the joint.
See what kind of joint you have:

A. The joint is peaked. (trowel will rock back and forth at the joint)
B. The joint looks stepped. (trowel will lie flat on one side and
there'll be a gap on the other --------________)
C. Joint is recessed. (trowel doesn't touch the tape.)

If (A) do basically what's described in the article. You don't want to
leave a full 1/8" of mud over the tape, though. If you're having trouble
(and you will) just aim for the point where you can just start to see
the tape through the wet mud. Ideally you'd want to stop before you get
to that point, but that's easier said than done. You'll have better luck
getting the proper coverage on the second and third coats.

If (B) you want to concentrate most of the mud (and the width of the
joint) on the low side. There's no sense putting any more mud on the
high side than is necessary to cover the tape.

If {C} finish it as you would a factory tapered edge joint.

Of course, the best way to finish a butt-joint is to not have a
butt-joint in the first place whenever possible. You may also want to
consider buttboard or similar products.
http://www.trim-tex.com/catalog/staplegunsandtools.htm

Just your brain.

--
Jim McLaughlin

Reply address is deliberately munged.
If you really need to reply directly, try:
jimdotmclaughlinatcomcastdotcom

And you know it is a dotnet not a dotcom
address.
wrote in message
...
On Wed, 02 Aug 2006 23:15:39 GMT, "Martik"
wrote:

Looking at step 11:
http://www.rd.com/content/openConten...78&pageIndex=1

Are 6 passes really required or are there alternate methods of
"concealing"
this type of joint?


My butt dont have any joints. Am I missing some body parts?

On Wed, 02 Aug 2006 23:15:39 GMT, "Martik"
wrote:

Looking at step 11:
http://www.rd.com/content/openConten...78&pageIndex=1

Are 6 passes really required or are there alternate methods of "concealing"
this type of joint?


Three passes to put mud on (rough). Three to feather a finish - step
11. (look at the strokes in the photo)

It would take me more...

Oren

"Mike Paulsen" wrote in message
...
Martik wrote:
Looking at step 11:
http://www.rd.com/content/openConten...78&pageIndex=1

Are 6 passes really required or are there alternate methods of
"concealing" this type of joint?

The 6 passes shown in the article are not separate coats of mud --
they're the passes he makes with the trowel to get the first coat of mud
on the joint. You can finish just about any butt joint with three coats of
mud.

Not all butt joints are the same. You'll save yourself some time and mud
(and have a better joint) if you take a few seconds to see what you've got
before you start throwing mud at at.

1. Put the edge of the trowel or any 12" straight edge across the joint.
See what kind of joint you have:

A. The joint is peaked. (trowel will rock back and forth at the joint)
B. The joint looks stepped. (trowel will lie flat on one side and there'll
be a gap on the other --------________)
C. Joint is recessed. (trowel doesn't touch the tape.)

If (A) do basically what's described in the article. You don't want to
leave a full 1/8" of mud over the tape, though. If you're having trouble
(and you will) just aim for the point where you can just start to see the
tape through the wet mud. Ideally you'd want to stop before you get to
that point, but that's easier said than done. You'll have better luck
getting the proper coverage on the second and third coats.

If (B) you want to concentrate most of the mud (and the width of the
joint) on the low side. There's no sense putting any more mud on the high
side than is necessary to cover the tape.

If {C} finish it as you would a factory tapered edge joint.

Of course, the best way to finish a butt-joint is to not have a butt-joint
in the first place whenever possible. You may also want to consider
buttboard or similar products.
http://www.trim-tex.com/catalog/staplegunsandtools.htm



Thanks all for very helpful replies. I never knew such a product as
buttboard existed. Too late for boards already up, maybe I'll try removing
the paper cover like the tool "EZ-Backer Drywall Splicer".

"Martik" wrote in message
news:X_rAg.181654$771.133666@edtnps89...

"Mike Paulsen" wrote in message
...
Martik wrote:
Looking at step 11:
http://www.rd.com/content/openConten...78&pageIndex=1

Are 6 passes really required or are there alternate methods of
"concealing" this type of joint?

http://www.ezbacker.com/rock_splicer.html