We have animals that spit up, etc. on our carpeting regularly;
therefore, we are planning to replace the carpet throughout our house
with a pet-friendly flooring. Our pets spit up, etc while we are at
work so it is often several hours before the material can be wiped up.
Seems like good-quality sheet vinyl with a wood-grain pattern would be
our best option as ceramic tile or laminate flooring has seams. Seams
would allow the pet spit-up, etc. to soak in the cracks. Any
suggestions or ideas?

wrote in message
oups.com...
We have animals that spit up, etc. on our carpeting regularly;
therefore, we are planning to replace the carpet throughout our house
with a pet-friendly flooring. Our pets spit up, etc while we are at
work so it is often several hours before the material can be wiped up.
Seems like good-quality sheet vinyl with a wood-grain pattern would be
our best option as ceramic tile or laminate flooring has seams. Seams
would allow the pet spit-up, etc. to soak in the cracks. Any
suggestions or ideas?


Well you might want to address why the animals are spitting up first -
that's not totally normal on a routine basis.

But as to your question, if you get a good quality office carpet that cleans
up very easily and is tougher than a mother to boot. The only detraction is
that it looks like .....well an office carpet.

A PET DOOR with fenced in penned in area will go a long way to fix your
problem!

Our dogs come and go as they please, and the best part is we never have
to open a door to let them out.

yeah sheet vinyl appears to be the best choice, and if your animals
have urine soaked the floor theres only ONE solution to the odor. scrub
the floor and seal with outdoor polyurethane, so that moisture doesnt
allow the odor to reoccur.

wrote:

We have animals that spit up, etc. on our carpeting regularly;
therefore, we are planning to replace the carpet throughout our house
with a pet-friendly flooring. Our pets spit up, etc while we are at
work so it is often several hours before the material can be wiped up.
Seems like good-quality sheet vinyl with a wood-grain pattern would be
our best option as ceramic tile or laminate flooring has seams. Seams
would allow the pet spit-up, etc. to soak in the cracks. Any
suggestions or ideas?

Tile doesn't have "seams", it has grout lines, that depending on what kind
of grout you use and how you seal it can be pretty much impervious to
anything.

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

wrote:

A PET DOOR with fenced in penned in area will go a long way to fix your
problem!

Our dogs come and go as they please, and the best part is we never have
to open a door to let them out.

yeah sheet vinyl appears to be the best choice, and if your animals
have urine soaked the floor theres only ONE solution to the odor. scrub
the floor and seal with outdoor polyurethane, so that moisture doesnt
allow the odor to reoccur.

Seal with shellac, then put polyurethane over it if you need to. Shellac is
a very effective odor barrier.

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Eigenvector wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...
We have animals that spit up, etc. on our carpeting regularly;
therefore, we are planning to replace the carpet throughout our house
with a pet-friendly flooring. Our pets spit up, etc while we are at
work so it is often several hours before the material can be wiped up.
Seems like good-quality sheet vinyl with a wood-grain pattern would be
our best option as ceramic tile or laminate flooring has seams. Seams
would allow the pet spit-up, etc. to soak in the cracks. Any
suggestions or ideas?


Well you might want to address why the animals are spitting up first -
that's not totally normal on a routine basis.

Kidney failure is common in older dogs, & it can cause repeated
vomiting. Have it checked with a simple blood test. If you catch it
early enough, you can treat it.

I did not catch it early enough.

outdoor poluurthane may not stick well to shellac, the polyurethane is
a absolute seal for odors. i know what i am talking about having
rehabbed my moms house, incontenient mom, step dad and dogs...

you cant scrub it off, only seal it in.

walls absorb odors, seal walls with bin or kilz after scrubing then
paint with whatever you want.

concrete can be sealed with outdoor polyurethane too

wrote:

outdoor poluurthane may not stick well to shellac, the polyurethane is
a absolute seal for odors. i know what i am talking about having
rehabbed my moms house, incontenient mom, step dad and dogs...

Sticks fine if you use dewaxed shellac. Shellac is the accepted odor
barrier. If you want to use something else go ahead. But I wouldn't
recommend an "outdoor polyurethane" for interior use.

you cant scrub it off, only seal it in.

walls absorb odors, seal walls with bin

Which is shellac.

or kilz

Which is specifically formulated to replace shellac

after scrubing then
paint with whatever you want.

concrete can be sealed with outdoor polyurethane too

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

J. Clarke wrote:
wrote:

outdoor poluurthane may not stick well to shellac, the polyurethane is
a absolute seal for odors. i know what i am talking about having
rehabbed my moms house, incontenient mom, step dad and dogs...

Sticks fine if you use dewaxed shellac. Shellac is the accepted odor
barrier. If you want to use something else go ahead. But I wouldn't
recommend an "outdoor polyurethane" for interior use.

you cant scrub it off, only seal it in.

walls absorb odors, seal walls with bin

Which is shellac.

or kilz

Which is specifically formulated to replace shellac

after scrubing then
paint with whatever you want.

concrete can be sealed with outdoor polyurethane too

--
--John


the fire restoration industry uses outdoor polyurethane, since its
waterproof. smelly when applied lasts forever.
BIN is also the fire restoration standard.

I helped friends after a home fire I also rehabbed a urine soaked
smelly home.

Both came out fine with no odors at all.

IFYOUR GOING TO DO A JOB DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE THEN GO RELAX!

The cost and work difference isnt much when you have to do it again....

why not use outdoor polyurethane indoors other than initial odor?

wrote:


J. Clarke wrote:
wrote:

outdoor poluurthane may not stick well to shellac, the polyurethane is
a absolute seal for odors. i know what i am talking about having
rehabbed my moms house, incontenient mom, step dad and dogs...

Sticks fine if you use dewaxed shellac. Shellac is the accepted odor
barrier. If you want to use something else go ahead. But I wouldn't
recommend an "outdoor polyurethane" for interior use.

you cant scrub it off, only seal it in.

walls absorb odors, seal walls with bin

Which is shellac.

or kilz

Which is specifically formulated to replace shellac

after scrubing then
paint with whatever you want.

concrete can be sealed with outdoor polyurethane too

--
--John


the fire restoration industry uses outdoor polyurethane, since its
waterproof. smelly when applied lasts forever.
BIN is also the fire restoration standard.

Nothing lasts forever. Certainly nothing made of wood. Not only is outdoor
polyurethane smelly, but it also may have fumes of greater toxicity than
indoor and the only thing it brings to the party is UV inhibitors.

Like I said, BIN is shellac. If you want to use that particular brand by
all means do so, but make sure it's fresh.

I helped friends after a home fire I also rehabbed a urine soaked
smelly home.

Both came out fine with no odors at all.

For how long? Have 10 years elapsed? 20? 30?

IFYOUR GOING TO DO A JOB DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE THEN GO RELAX!

Which means the accepted barrier coat.

The cost and work difference isnt much when you have to do it again....

why not use outdoor polyurethane indoors other than initial odor?

How soon do you want to occupy the premises? How much isocyanate can your
system tolerate?

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

wrote:


J. Clarke wrote:
wrote:


J. Clarke wrote:
wrote:

outdoor poluurthane may not stick well to shellac, the polyurethane
is a absolute seal for odors. i know what i am talking about having
rehabbed my moms house, incontenient mom, step dad and dogs...

Sticks fine if you use dewaxed shellac. Shellac is the accepted odor
barrier. If you want to use something else go ahead. But I wouldn't
recommend an "outdoor polyurethane" for interior use.

you cant scrub it off, only seal it in.

walls absorb odors, seal walls with bin

Which is shellac.

or kilz

Which is specifically formulated to replace shellac

after scrubing then
paint with whatever you want.

concrete can be sealed with outdoor polyurethane too

--
--John


the fire restoration industry uses outdoor polyurethane, since its
waterproof. smelly when applied lasts forever.
BIN is also the fire restoration standard.

Nothing lasts forever. Certainly nothing made of wood. Not only is
outdoor polyurethane smelly, but it also may have fumes of greater
toxicity than indoor and the only thing it brings to the party is UV
inhibitors.

Like I said, BIN is shellac. If you want to use that particular brand by
all means do so, but make sure it's fresh.

I helped friends after a home fire I also rehabbed a urine soaked
smelly home.

Both came out fine with no odors at all.

For how long? Have 10 years elapsed? 20? 30?

IFYOUR GOING TO DO A JOB DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE THEN GO RELAX!

Which means the accepted barrier coat.

The cost and work difference isnt much when you have to do it again....

why not use outdoor polyurethane indoors other than initial odor?

How soon do you want to occupy the premises? How much isocyanate can
your system tolerate?

--
--John
REGULAR PPOLYURETHANE softens in the presence of moisture. Outdoor
doesnt.

Source please? Hint, most single-component polyurethane cures in the
presence of moisture.

You dont want a hot humid day to generate bad odors

If it does then your method failed.

Incidently the urine odor mitigation was 10 years ago. I sold the home
about 1.5 years ago and disclosed it had been a problem. The neighbors
knew no use trying to avoid the issue. The buyer had a special contract
part written in if odors should reoccur, they havent.

10 years is not long in the life of a house.

You dont do outdoor polyurethane with anyone living in home. It must be
vacant.

So you want the OP to live in a hotel for _how_ long?

so your stuck on shellac, thats fine and also know the odor will
reappear. Thats true of shellac, poly is forever.

In an earlier post you recommend BIN, which is dewaxed shellac, or Kilz,
which is marketed as an alkyd coating purpose made as a replacement for
shellac. Now you're saying that if you use shellac then the odor will
reoccur. So which is it?

And I did not say to use only shellac, I said to use it as an odor barrier
and then put whatever you want on top of it, which includes polyurethane.
I don't see why you're having a problem with that.

The fellow who taught me what to do was a realtor of 35 years who owned
and rented property. he reported poly a plywood floor to stop odors.

Oh, a realtor. Now there's an expert for you.

THIS IS THE PROFESSIONAL APPROACH, you are free to do whatever you want
and waste all the time and money you care too.

If this is in fact a recognized "professional approach" then you should be
able to reference a standard of some kind that says so, or literature from
manufacturers of polyurethane coatings recommending them for this purpose,
or some other such source.

So a realtor taught you a trick and on that basis you're sure that it's the
only viable approach.

Believe what you want to. Meanwhile I'll go with the standard method, which
is to apply a shellac odor barrier and then an appropriate coating.

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

As a FINAL COMMENT my method is the very same one used daily by fire
restoration companies nationwide.

You have the choice to do whatever YOU want.

All the friends of mine who tried other things found the odors
reoccured.

That realtor had over 100 units rented, he was a expert at property
management and building repairs

This discussion has runs it course I wouldnt comment futher..