Should I be adding a metal outlet box on a cinder block wall or is a
plastic box acceptable? I'm running 14 gauge, 3 conductor copper NM
wire and the outlet is to be used for a freezer.

wrote:
Should I be adding a metal outlet box on a cinder block wall or is a
plastic box acceptable? I'm running 14 gauge, 3 conductor copper NM
wire and the outlet is to be used for a freezer.

If the wall is dry I would use metal so it not subject to damage.
Ideally the freezer should go on a SEPERATE NON GFCI circuit for max
dependability

I always use metal ones. The plastic ones are mostly just for penny
pinching contractors.

wrote in message
ups.com...
Should I be adding a metal outlet box on a cinder block wall or is a
plastic box acceptable? I'm running 14 gauge, 3 conductor copper NM
wire and the outlet is to be used for a freezer.


For surface mount I always use metal. I suggest that you use 12 gauge cable
for your freezer instead of 14. Your compressor will thank you with a
greater life span.

On 27 Jun 2006 09:03:53 -0700, wrote:

Should I be adding a metal outlet box on a cinder block wall or is a
plastic box acceptable? I'm running 14 gauge, 3 conductor copper NM
wire and the outlet is to be used for a freezer.


Use a metal box and 12 gauge wire. Use conduit or a metal racetrack
along the cinder block wall. Purchase the box, racetrack, clips,
screws at the same time. You will need to use the special blue
concrete screws and a specific concrete bit size for the pilot hole.
All basement circuits should have a GFCI in the first box of every
circuit. Fourteen gauge is primarily for lighting.

"Phisherman" wrote in message
...
On 27 Jun 2006 09:03:53 -0700, wrote:

Should I be adding a metal outlet box on a cinder block wall or is a
plastic box acceptable? I'm running 14 gauge, 3 conductor copper NM
wire and the outlet is to be used for a freezer.


Use a metal box and 12 gauge wire. Use conduit or a metal racetrack
along the cinder block wall. Purchase the box, racetrack, clips,
screws at the same time. You will need to use the special blue
concrete screws and a specific concrete bit size for the pilot hole.
All basement circuits should have a GFCI in the first box of every
circuit. Fourteen gauge is primarily for lighting.


There is an exception to the basement GFCI requirement with regards to
certain equipment such as refrigerators and sump pumps. You can install a
"Single" receptacle (Not a duplex receptacle) to be used solely for said
equipment. Article 210.8(A)(5) Exception #2. You don't want the GFCI
tripping and having all of the food ruined or the basement flooded.

wrote:
Should I be adding a metal outlet box on a cinder block wall or is a
plastic box acceptable? I'm running 14 gauge, 3 conductor copper NM
wire and the outlet is to be used for a freezer.

With the current, no pun intended, state of wire prices I would check
the nameplate rating on the fridge. Use that as your guide for wire
sizing. A dedicated 15A (14awg wire) is usually more than enough for a
freezer unless it is an industrial sized unit.

Don't believe the hype about the unit lasting longer if you over size
the wire and/or circuit breaker. If you follow the name plate rating
and size your circuit accordingly you will be fine. I can't imagine a
standard fridge or freezer needing more than the dedicated 15A your
running. Definitely not more than a 20A (12awg wire). Againa, this is
only if you don't have an industrial freezer.

I recommend several ways to run the wi
1). Nail a 2x4 to the wall and run flexible metal conduit to the panel
and down the wall.
2). use EMT piping
3). Use ENT Piping
4). Metal Wiremold is nice.
5). Nail a 2x4 to the wall and run just the NM-C

Depending on how you do it it, these are all NEC approved options.

John Grabowski wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...
Should I be adding a metal outlet box on a cinder block wall or is a
plastic box acceptable? I'm running 14 gauge, 3 conductor copper NM
wire and the outlet is to be used for a freezer.


For surface mount I always use metal. I suggest that you use 12 gauge cable
for your freezer instead of 14. Your compressor will thank you with a
greater life span.

I'm wondering why the recommendation for metal over plastic?

"z" wrote in message
ups.com...

John Grabowski wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...
Should I be adding a metal outlet box on a cinder block wall or is a
plastic box acceptable? I'm running 14 gauge, 3 conductor copper NM
wire and the outlet is to be used for a freezer.


For surface mount I always use metal. I suggest that you use 12 gauge
cable
for your freezer instead of 14. Your compressor will thank you with a
greater life span.

I'm wondering why the recommendation for metal over plastic?


Durability.

On Tue, 27 Jun 2006 17:53:07 -0400, "John Grabowski"
wrote:


"z" wrote in message
oups.com...

John Grabowski wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...
Should I be adding a metal outlet box on a cinder block wall or is a
plastic box acceptable? I'm running 14 gauge, 3 conductor copper NM
wire and the outlet is to be used for a freezer.


For surface mount I always use metal. I suggest that you use 12 gauge
cable
for your freezer instead of 14. Your compressor will thank you with a
greater life span.

I'm wondering why the recommendation for metal over plastic?


Durability.

And ease of mounting. Most plastic ones are made to be side nailed to
wooden studs. Sure, you can drill into the back of the plastic box,
but why bother when a metal box is 50 cents more.

On Tue, 27 Jun 2006 19:53:26 GMT, Phisherman wrote:

On 27 Jun 2006 09:03:53 -0700, wrote:

Should I be adding a metal outlet box on a cinder block wall or is a
plastic box acceptable? I'm running 14 gauge, 3 conductor copper NM
wire and the outlet is to be used for a freezer.


Use a metal box and 12 gauge wire. Use conduit or a metal racetrack
along the cinder block wall. Purchase the box, racetrack, clips,
screws at the same time. You will need to use the special blue
concrete screws and a specific concrete bit size for the pilot hole.
All basement circuits should have a GFCI in the first box of every
circuit. Fourteen gauge is primarily for lighting.

You * DO NOT* want a GFI on a refrigerator or freezer !!!!
Place this appliance on a separate breaker and do nto use it for
anything else. Be sure to ground the outlet properly, and be sure the
ground is not broken off on the appliance plug, if it is, replace the
plug.

wrote in message

You are going to have to lose that thinking. The exceptions to the
GFCI rules are becoming fewer and fewer. The laundry went away in
2005. A properly working refrigerator should not trip a GFCI. It is
common that old ones develop shorts in the compressor that trip a GFCI
but that is a fault, not normal operation.

But is must be on a separate circuit. (I don't see the need for GFCI that
way though). If it shares a circuit and a toaster trips the GFCI it may be
hours before anyone notices it.

On 27 Jun 2006 09:56:34 -0700, "
wrote:


wrote:
Should I be adding a metal outlet box on a cinder block wall or is a
plastic box acceptable? I'm running 14 gauge, 3 conductor copper NM
wire and the outlet is to be used for a freezer.

If the wall is dry I would use metal so it not subject to damage.
Ideally the freezer should go on a SEPERATE NON GFCI circuit for max
dependability

Why non GFCI, especially considering that if the freezer fails, the
ice will melt and it will be wet?