I probably asked this before, but I can't remember the answer, and can't
find it in Google.

Can anyone recommend a specific brand of stuff to putty over some chip-outs
in the edge banding of some older formica countertops? House is 1960, but I
think these date from mid-70s. Just looking for something to disguise them a
little, to tide me over till the kitchen can get redone several years from
now. I'm not gonna put new counters on cabinets previous owner fubar'd with
bad faux finish and multiple layers of contact paper inside. (When the more
urgent stuff gets done, I may spring for new flooring/cabinets/counters, but
it is usable as-is. It would sure look a lot better if I could bandaid the
wounds, though.)

aem sends...

According to ameijers :
I probably asked this before, but I can't remember the answer, and can't
find it in Google.

Can anyone recommend a specific brand of stuff to putty over some chip-outs
in the edge banding of some older formica countertops? House is 1960, but I
think these date from mid-70s. Just looking for something to disguise them a
little, to tide me over till the kitchen can get redone several years from
now. I'm not gonna put new counters on cabinets previous owner fubar'd with
bad faux finish and multiple layers of contact paper inside. (When the more
urgent stuff gets done, I may spring for new flooring/cabinets/counters, but
it is usable as-is. It would sure look a lot better if I could bandaid the
wounds, though.)

There's a whole host of things you could do this with, depending on how
much trouble you want to go to, how tough you need it, and how you're
going to blend it in.

If the chipouts aren't too severe, touch-up paint may hide it just
enough to not be an eyesore.

If it's a solid color, you may be able to find some suitable melamine paint,
which is quite tough, and will match pretty well.

I have some white melamine paint I use for minor touchups (eg: "seconds"
countertop used in a craft room).

Otherwise, model airplane paint is probably the most economical way to do it,
and it'll be reasonably tough.

If paint alone isn't enough:

Some wood fillers _may_ work, but you'd have to experiment.

I'm partial to using epoxy for this sort of repair. Since we use epoxy for various
things, we have good quality stuff on hand (eg: West Systems) which I'd thicken
up with silica filler (West Systems is pretty runny). You could probably get away
with 5 minute epoxy without the filler if you make up a "dam" (popcicle stick) lined
with, say, plastic from zip lock bags to keep it from dribbling off. You may need
to sand or file the result.

Provided that the result is properly painted, you could use fine sawdust as filler.

[With West, you'd mix filler:epoxy about 3:1. 5 minute would need less filler,
but you have to work fast.]

Then paint.

Lee Valley (and I assume others) carry a two part compound called "Raycrete".
Specifically intended as a repair material for gouges/voids in wood etc.
Eg: reconstituting rot-damaged exterior trim. This is really good stuff, but
the minimum size is a lot bigger than you need, and this stuff ain't cheap.

West Systems has a small "repair/sample" kit. Intended as a sample, or
for very small repairs - about $10. Silica filler (eg: from suppliers
for automotive body or marine shops) is really cheap stuff, but minimum quantities
are about 500ml.

Oh, heck, Bondo or a tube of automotive glazing compound would also
do the job, and be about the easiest to find.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.