I have read comments that scoring hardie board siding does not make for
a good cut, but I have found that for cross-cutting, scoring by far
makes the straightest, cleanest edge. The secret is to score it several
times on each side using a utility knife. To break the board after
scoring, just bend the shorter side up, unless it is very short, in
which case a sharp rap with a hammer usually does it. Then, take a few
strokes with a rasp to clean up any debris left hanging on the edge.
No muss, no fuss, and - no dust! Otherwise, a circular saw with a
hardi-blade will work, but it generates sufficient dust to obscure any
marking you are trying to follow. The utility knife blades do wear so
have plenty of spares.
For long diagonal cuts this method doesn't work as the board wants to
break cross-wise, so a mechanized shear is the best. The
"Whipper-Snapper" shear is great because it will also let you make
medium radius curved cuts suitable for electrical lighting fixtures,
etc. For small details a small portable sabre saw with a tungsten
carbide blade worked the best. Finally, for ripping, a diamond
hardi-blade in my table saw worked very nicely - just make sure you are
up-wind, or wear a dust mask.
For setting the siding in place, I used two or three loops of ~1"
wide straps marked 1 1/4" up from the bottom. Screw the straps to the
wall with the marks at the top of the previous course, and slip your
siding in. For attaching the siding, cement board screws (Grabber and
Marker are two brands) worked very well for me - no need to lug a
nailer up ladders, just a small battery powered drill/driver. Plus you
can back out the screws to release the mounting straps.
I used pre-painted hardi-board and had the local hardware store mix
paint to match. I got the Create-a-Color caulk kit from Red Devil and
used the paint to make matching caulk.
The neighbors say the job looks good and I am happy with it as well.

wrote in message
oups.com...
I have read comments that scoring hardie board siding does not make for
a good cut, but I have found that for cross-cutting, scoring by far
makes the straightest, cleanest edge. The secret is to score it several
times on each side using a utility knife. To break the board after
scoring, just bend the shorter side up, unless it is very short, in
which case a sharp rap with a hammer usually does it. Then, take a few
strokes with a rasp to clean up any debris left hanging on the edge.
No muss, no fuss, and - no dust! Otherwise, a circular saw with a
hardi-blade will work, but it generates sufficient dust to obscure any
marking you are trying to follow. The utility knife blades do wear so
have plenty of spares.
For long diagonal cuts this method doesn't work as the board wants to
break cross-wise, so a mechanized shear is the best. The
"Whipper-Snapper" shear is great because it will also let you make
medium radius curved cuts suitable for electrical lighting fixtures,
etc. For small details a small portable sabre saw with a tungsten
carbide blade worked the best. Finally, for ripping, a diamond
hardi-blade in my table saw worked very nicely - just make sure you are
up-wind, or wear a dust mask.
For setting the siding in place, I used two or three loops of ~1"
wide straps marked 1 1/4" up from the bottom. Screw the straps to the
wall with the marks at the top of the previous course, and slip your
siding in. For attaching the siding, cement board screws (Grabber and
Marker are two brands) worked very well for me - no need to lug a
nailer up ladders, just a small battery powered drill/driver. Plus you
can back out the screws to release the mounting straps.
I used pre-painted hardi-board and had the local hardware store mix
paint to match. I got the Create-a-Color caulk kit from Red Devil and
used the paint to make matching caulk.
The neighbors say the job looks good and I am happy with it as well.


The pros use a circular saw, air gun, and a tape measure with excellent
results. No fancy cutter, no straps, no drill, etc.


Another clueless weekend warrior. Enough said.

Riiight - No doubt you can explain to the clueless how the "pros" cut
circular holes with a circular saw.
-----------------------------------
Internet quantum mechanics:
For every group, there is a Bozon occupying the lowest energy level.

My lessons learned.
Did my Hardiboard horizontal lap siding alone.
All siding was pre-primed retail siding.
Used: Diamond tipped masonary blade on an inexpensive circular saw, and a
router.
All cuts were supported with 2X12 beneath the siding. This included cross
cuts, diagonal cuts, and ripping.
The router was used for holes for conduit entry, and external electrical
outlets. Again, a 2X12 supported the siding during hole cutout with support
mods for hole area like 2X4s.
The only cuts that are somewhat critical are outside corners for accuracy to
give a good appearance. The remainder, caulking can fill any short or
jagged cuts.
The method I used for cutting was: Always cut outdoors, wind left to right,
adjust the height of the circular saw to just barely score the 2X12, use
unventilated goggles when actually cutting. The mark or line made for
cutting reference will be just to the left of the blade. If too much dust
accumulates in the air while cutting, stop paying attention to not let the
saw wander, let air dissipate, begin again. Cut slower to cut down on dust,
depends on wind conditions. Wear coveralls.
Run the starter strip on the wall per Hardie guidance. Measure up at
corners to properly start the first run of siding, pop a chalk line. At the
outside corner, make a butt stop from the wall around the corner. Measure
properly for the first piece of siding, cut to length. Double up exterior
wall studs to accomodate siding joints. Butt the siding to the butt stop,
nail or screw the siding somewhere in the middle. Do not let go of siding
yet. Nail or screw siding to the adjoining stud as well. Afterwards, check
both ends for proper alignment. Then nail or screw siding remainder if
correct. I used galvanized box nails.

Always use the bottom of the first run of siding for reference. Pop another
chalkline for the next run of siding etc.

A router does holes very well in Hardie horizontal siding. The dust is
worse than cutting with a circular saw. Consider both the unventilated
goggles, coveralls, and a dust mask. Siding must be supported to allow
clearance of router bit. You may have to turn the siding to accomodate wind
direction as you go. Seeing cutting lines is difficult at best due to dust.
Very windy day is a plus.

Painting: Caulk with appropriate caulk. Smooth overflow as needed.
Liberally prime all corners,joints, other type cuts as you cut this area, no
priming present. Caulking does not have to color match, but has to take
primer and paint well. Two coats of paint is what I did. Used paint
formula referenced at Hardie for this type siding.

Used similar techniques on Hardie ventilated soffit as well. "Helpers" can
be made to assist in this. A person assistant is best I found when
applying.
--
Jonny
wrote in message
oups.com...
I have read comments that scoring hardie board siding does not make for
a good cut, but I have found that for cross-cutting, scoring by far
makes the straightest, cleanest edge. The secret is to score it several
times on each side using a utility knife. To break the board after
scoring, just bend the shorter side up, unless it is very short, in
which case a sharp rap with a hammer usually does it. Then, take a few
strokes with a rasp to clean up any debris left hanging on the edge.
No muss, no fuss, and - no dust! Otherwise, a circular saw with a
hardi-blade will work, but it generates sufficient dust to obscure any
marking you are trying to follow. The utility knife blades do wear so
have plenty of spares.
For long diagonal cuts this method doesn't work as the board wants to
break cross-wise, so a mechanized shear is the best. The
"Whipper-Snapper" shear is great because it will also let you make
medium radius curved cuts suitable for electrical lighting fixtures,
etc. For small details a small portable sabre saw with a tungsten
carbide blade worked the best. Finally, for ripping, a diamond
hardi-blade in my table saw worked very nicely - just make sure you are
up-wind, or wear a dust mask.
For setting the siding in place, I used two or three loops of ~1"
wide straps marked 1 1/4" up from the bottom. Screw the straps to the
wall with the marks at the top of the previous course, and slip your
siding in. For attaching the siding, cement board screws (Grabber and
Marker are two brands) worked very well for me - no need to lug a
nailer up ladders, just a small battery powered drill/driver. Plus you
can back out the screws to release the mounting straps.
I used pre-painted hardi-board and had the local hardware store mix
paint to match. I got the Create-a-Color caulk kit from Red Devil and
used the paint to make matching caulk.
The neighbors say the job looks good and I am happy with it as well.

we use just regular power shears like for metal , clean cut and precise.
wrote in message
oups.com...
I have read comments that scoring hardie board siding does not make for
a good cut, but I have found that for cross-cutting, scoring by far
makes the straightest, cleanest edge. The secret is to score it several
times on each side using a utility knife. To break the board after
scoring, just bend the shorter side up, unless it is very short, in
which case a sharp rap with a hammer usually does it. Then, take a few
strokes with a rasp to clean up any debris left hanging on the edge.
No muss, no fuss, and - no dust! Otherwise, a circular saw with a
hardi-blade will work, but it generates sufficient dust to obscure any
marking you are trying to follow. The utility knife blades do wear so
have plenty of spares.
For long diagonal cuts this method doesn't work as the board wants to
break cross-wise, so a mechanized shear is the best. The
"Whipper-Snapper" shear is great because it will also let you make
medium radius curved cuts suitable for electrical lighting fixtures,
etc. For small details a small portable sabre saw with a tungsten
carbide blade worked the best. Finally, for ripping, a diamond
hardi-blade in my table saw worked very nicely - just make sure you are
up-wind, or wear a dust mask.
For setting the siding in place, I used two or three loops of ~1"
wide straps marked 1 1/4" up from the bottom. Screw the straps to the
wall with the marks at the top of the previous course, and slip your
siding in. For attaching the siding, cement board screws (Grabber and
Marker are two brands) worked very well for me - no need to lug a
nailer up ladders, just a small battery powered drill/driver. Plus you
can back out the screws to release the mounting straps.
I used pre-painted hardi-board and had the local hardware store mix
paint to match. I got the Create-a-Color caulk kit from Red Devil and
used the paint to make matching caulk.
The neighbors say the job looks good and I am happy with it as well.

"big daddy framer" wrote in message
news:q1iVf.640375$084.476690@attbi_s22...
we use just regular power shears like for metal , clean cut and precise.

And best of all, not dust...