This is a simple method to getting rid of algae in a pool step by step:

1. BUY "FLOC"
"Floc" or Flocculant is a chemical that is sold in every pool store.
Just pick up a bottle or granular and follow theses instructions.

2. Turn your pool filter on
3. Add The FLOC to your pool. As much as need, I say the more the
better.
4 Run pool filter for about 2 hours
5. then shut off your pool filter
6. Wait about 8 to 12 hours and then check your pool. At this time
your pool should be clear except all the alage will be at the bottom of
your pool.
7. Hook up your manual pool vacuum and before you start vacuuming turn
your sand pool filter to "Waste" or your DE or Cartridge filter to
drain. If you do not have these opitions then remove your drain plug
from your filter and vacuum

Note: water will be thrown from the filter so it might be wise to hook
up your backwash hose.

8. Vacuum up all the green alage until the pool becomes so cloudy that
you can no longer see.
9. Then shut your filter off and start the fill up your pool (cause
you loss so much water from vacuuming)
10. wait until the alage settles to the bottom again and continue to
vac until all the algae is gone.

for more info on this contact me at
My website for pool care will be up soon @ http://www.swimuniversity.com

On 16 Mar 2006 15:52:52 -0800, wrote:

This is a simple method to getting rid of algae in a pool step by step:

1. BUY "FLOC"
"Floc" or Flocculant is a chemical that is sold in every pool store.
Just pick up a bottle or granular and follow theses instructions.

=============snip snip snip ------------
From my experience in my own pool (30 + years) FLOC works IF and only
IF you adjust the PH of the water WAY UP then add the floc....

I Like to use Grandular Floc over Liquid Floc but it is getting harder
and harder to find Grandular anymore...


Bob G.

It's true that finding grandular floc is getting harder, though also in
my experience in the pool industry having a good level of pH is a must
now matter what's going on.

When you have low pH chlorine shock will not work as hard because the
acid in the water eats up the chlorine fast which doesnt let the
chlorine work long enough to do its job.

Also having low pH can also damage any metal that your pool might have
such as, heaters, ladder poles and parts in your automatic pool
cleaner. Even your liner is at risk overtime in low pH conditions. So
make sure you always check your pH level, it is very super important.

remtom46 writes:

When you have low pH chlorine shock will not work as hard because the
acid in the water eats up the chlorine fast which doesnt let the
chlorine work long enough to do its job.

Quite the opposite. It is all about ORP. You get no ORP with high pH.

What kind of "chemistry" is "eats up"?

Not to fight with Mr.Kinch, but I am trying to help people clear thier
pool. I am giving advice in words that people can understand, without
asking questions. Mr. Kinch is trying to show off his knowledge of
chemistry. I am by no means a chemist nor do I claim to be one. But
when I am giving advice, I don't apperciate being made a fool of.

It's Obvious that Mr.Kinch is very smart and wise and all knowing. So
spend your money raising the pH to add floc. Since he's only trying to
help. I know for a Fact Mr.Kinch that you do not need to raise the pH
in your pool "WAY UP" (what kind of chemistry is that?) to have floc
work effectivley. So instead of fighting me by giving false
information, pick up a book and study before you make false statements
and make yourself look like a fool.

To Everyone Reading This:
I am sorry to have to put Mr.Kinch in his place but I am only trying to
help the consumer in time and money which I think is very important to
a pool owner. There is no need to be a backyard chemist just having a
clean pool is important. If you follow my instructions I assure you
that your pool will be clear and this is only my advice. You may
choose weather or not to use it. And keep in my that every pool in
every part of the country is different. So just because Mr.Kinch is an
expert on his pool doesnt mean he knows everything about your pool.
Now I am not claiming I know everything about your pool either but I
have been working with customer pool for over 10 years and Have seen my
fair share of problems and have been able to acess and cure every last
one of them.

Again I apologize but Mr.Kinch is a silly bitch.

remtom46 writes:

If you follow my instructions I assure you
that your pool will be clear and this is only my advice.

I never said your method of flocculation didn't work.

My point is simply that you can do it quicker, cheaper, and with less
effort with low-pH superchlorination.

The pool stores are full of chemicals to fix problems, many of which can be
fixed by a few hours of high ORP via plain old chlorine and pool acid.

Go to any pool supply and you will see various costly packages lined up
like patent medicines, one claiming to cure green algae, another yellow
algae, another brown algae, etc. You don't need any of that, but some
people like to buy a product that way. Like the drug stores selling the
same medicine in different packages labeled for different ailments.

remtom46 wrote:
I have a degree in chemistry and I'm trying to help.

Wow, where did you get that degree from so fast? Only 2 days ago,
you said "I am by no means a chemist nor do I claim to be one", and
now all of a sudden you have a degree in chemistry! Was it expensive?
Did you have to study a lot? Did it come with a frame? Do tell!

remtom46 writes:

One bag of shock is good for 10,000 gallons of water so if you have a
pool that holds 20,000 gallons of water then you would need 2 bags for
a regualr shock treatment
Cost of 2 bags of shock: $8

Retail price for sodium hypochlorite to reach 10 ppm free chlorine in
20,000 gallons is less than $3 here. This represents over a pound of
elemental chlorine that will oxidize and gas out a huge amount of
contaminants, including algae.

Shock I feel is the easy way to get rid of alage but it takes the
longest to finally get it clear

The pool will be blue within hours, and clarified in a day or so.

remtom46 writes:

Shock is unstablized chlorine which means it does not have stablizer
and WILL NOT raise the stablizer in your pool
It will however increase your calcium because most shock has an active
ingredient of
Calcium Hypochlorite

That's often the case, but at least here in Florida, *all* the dry
chlorinators are cyanurated (falsely called "stabilized" by marketing
phonies) at stores like Home Depot, Walmart, Lowes, etc. They don't sell
*anything* with cal hypo in it any more. This seems to have had something
to do with Olin getting out of the cal hypo manufacturing business some
years ago.