Hi,

I have a 40 Gallon Water Heater that runs on Natural Gas. Since
Last night, the hot water throughout the house was only luke warm. I
have now noticed that the overflow pipe was gushing with water running
down the drain. I had to shut-off the inlet valve to stop it from
overflowing. But as soon as I did that, there is NO water when I turn
the hot water tabs on in the house.

Earlier this evening I tried flushing any sediments out by
connecting a garden hose and draining the water in the heater. The
water was clear and seemed to flow nicely. But everytime I turn of the
inlet pipe through its valve (and as soon as I turn it on), the water
seems to start gushing from the overflow into the drain. There is no
leakage at the Pressure valve.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

you need a new T&P valve, you might try opening and shutting it
repeatedly. but the valve is bad.

how old is the tank? if its near the end of its warranty your probably
better off replacing it. new T&P valve comes with replacement tank.

the valve is supposed to open if the pressure or temp gets too hot or
hi.

Thank you for your response. We moved into the house 2 1/2 years ago
and the house itself is about 6 years old. I am assuming that the tank
is likely to be as old as the house. I have looked into new 40 Gallon
Tanks and they are usually around $300. Is this T&P an expensive part?
From the look of it, it seems easy to replace.

"YKhan" wrote in message
ups.com...
Thank you for your response. We moved into the house 2 1/2 years ago
and the house itself is about 6 years old. I am assuming that the tank
is likely to be as old as the house. I have looked into new 40 Gallon
Tanks and they are usually around $300. Is this T&P an expensive part?
From the look of it, it seems easy to replace.

The "overflow" you refer to is the T&P? Saying there is no leakage at the
pressure valve has me confused.
They are easy to replace and IIRC are about $30. Just be sure you get the
right one; the wrong one can make a pretty good bomb.

How did you expect to get hot water when you turned the inlet valve off?

Thank you for your response. We moved into the house 2 1/2 years ago
and the house itself is about 6 years old. I am assuming that the tank
is likely to be as old as the house. I have looked into new 40 Gallon
Tanks and they are usually around $300. Is this T&P an expensive part?
From the look of it, it seems easy to replace.

you can try replacing the valve but with a 8 year old tank soon you
will be needing a new one anyway.

plus if you left the burner on and allowed the water level in the tank
drop it can overheat areas and your tank will fail fast

with a old tank unscrewing the T&P valve may lead to leaks soon after
its replaced. good luck whatever you do

wrote:
you can try replacing the valve but with a 8 year old tank soon you
will be needing a new one anyway.

plus if you left the burner on and allowed the water level in the tank
drop it can overheat areas and your tank will fail fast

with a old tank unscrewing the T&P valve may lead to leaks soon after
its replaced. good luck whatever you do


Since the valve not only opened, but continues to gush water, it sounds
like the over temp portion of the valve is what went. If it were
overpressure, the valve would close again and while it might leak, it
wouldn't be gushing. So, I would carefully evaluate what caused this
to happen, as you could have a serious malfunction.

Depending on the age of the unit, it may be better to just replace it.
Somewhere around 10-13 years is a typical lifespan.

they said the tank is close to 9 years old, its done its job a builders
tank isnt a premium one...

see:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pag...blems.html#a11