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carbonejim February 28th 06 04:27 PM

Painting Grandmas House
 
Hi,

Grandma's house was last painted in the late seventies of early
eighties. It still looks good in most areas, except a certain wall has
a bubbling look and some paint has broken off in the top corner. Under
the paint I see a brown paper. It reminds me of construction paper in
texture.

I need advice on how to prepare and paint this wall.

I figure I will need to scand the wall, espeially in the places of the
loose paint. The I can paint over the wall.

BUT, I worry that this is a sign of drywall damage, or maybe wallpaper
deep under the paint?

Thanks,
Jim


[email protected] February 28th 06 04:34 PM

Painting Grandmas House
 
probably wall paper:( I would try removing some, if you dont it will
peel more when you repaint:(


carbonejim February 28th 06 04:42 PM

Painting Grandmas House
 
Dang! I didn't want to think that. Do you think I can try to remove
some in the corner to test if this is really wallpaper? Do you think a
steamer machine would be the best method?

-Jim


RicodJour February 28th 06 05:30 PM

Painting Grandmas House
 
carbonejim wrote:
Dang! I didn't want to think that. Do you think I can try to remove
some in the corner to test if this is really wallpaper? Do you think a
steamer machine would be the best method?


Usually.

R


PipeDown February 28th 06 09:29 PM

Painting Grandmas House
 

"RicodJour" wrote in message
oups.com...
carbonejim wrote:
Dang! I didn't want to think that. Do you think I can try to remove
some in the corner to test if this is really wallpaper? Do you think a
steamer machine would be the best method?


Usually.

R


Then again, the last coat did last over 20 years. You could wire brush the
loose stuff off, prime and paint as usual. Just depends on how long you
want it to last. Are you freshning up or prepping for sale? I'd be
inclined to paint over unless the blistering was severe and all over the
wall.

Main problem I see is the blistered areas come off, it may be hard to blend
that in if there is a step at the edge of the paper. Sanding should work
there though.

A steamer should work if there are not too many layers of paint on top of
the paper and that paint is not too waterproof. You will need to score the
surface first so the steam can get underneith. I think they sell scoring
tools specifically for that purpose.

Just be sure the paper you see is wallpaper. Brown in appearance also
sounds like the paper backing on wallboard which you definately do not want
to remove.



carbonejim March 28th 06 09:45 PM

Painting Grandmas House
 
FYI. for future home repair novices,

I made another trip out to her house and peeled off more paint for a
closer look and to do some work. The brown paper under the paint was
wall board. I wonder why the paint peeled there? Maybe some moisture
got behind it. However, I don't see any reason to think this is a
problem that will occur again.

I took a scrapper and knocked off all the loose paint. Many layers
deep - once the walls and trim were painted torquise! I removed about
the area of about a square foot, the rest was on there good. The paint
removed was at least a millimeter thick that left a noticable
difference. I sanded the area and the rest of the wall to rough it up.
There were many, many bumps like they originally had crumbs in their
paint. Was this a style? The whole house has these inconsistent
bumps, but she never minded for this many years and they go back to
before the torquise color. I used a belt sander to clean most the
bumps up and touched things up by hand sanding. The paint that is on
there is like steel! I covered the area that was down to the wall
board with light joint compound usign a trowel. I also filled in some
nail holes and nicks on the entire wall. The process was pretty easy.
It did take some time to sand down that steel reinforced paint.

It looks pretty good so far. I left it to dry and won't be back for a
few weeks. Grandma doesn't mind the joint compound/sanded wall look
for now, she said it looks better than the wall peeling off.

Next time I'll lightly sand the rough spots down and put a layer of
primer on it. I'm going to match the paint color and finish it up with
a few coats. Entire project will cost $50 - $60. It's $40 now, but I
am yet to buy the matching paint.

Thanks,
Jim


Banty March 28th 06 09:57 PM

Painting Grandmas House
 
In article .com, carbonejim
says...

FYI. for future home repair novices,

I made another trip out to her house and peeled off more paint for a
closer look and to do some work. The brown paper under the paint was
wall board. I wonder why the paint peeled there? Maybe some moisture
got behind it. However, I don't see any reason to think this is a
problem that will occur again.

I took a scrapper and knocked off all the loose paint. Many layers
deep - once the walls and trim were painted torquise! I removed about
the area of about a square foot, the rest was on there good. The paint
removed was at least a millimeter thick that left a noticable
difference. I sanded the area and the rest of the wall to rough it up.
There were many, many bumps like they originally had crumbs in their
paint. Was this a style? The whole house has these inconsistent
bumps, but she never minded for this many years and they go back to
before the torquise color. I used a belt sander to clean most the
bumps up and touched things up by hand sanding. The paint that is on
there is like steel! I covered the area that was down to the wall
board with light joint compound usign a trowel. I also filled in some
nail holes and nicks on the entire wall. The process was pretty easy.
It did take some time to sand down that steel reinforced paint.

It looks pretty good so far. I left it to dry and won't be back for a
few weeks. Grandma doesn't mind the joint compound/sanded wall look
for now, she said it looks better than the wall peeling off.

Next time I'll lightly sand the rough spots down and put a layer of
primer on it. I'm going to match the paint color and finish it up with
a few coats. Entire project will cost $50 - $60. It's $40 now, but I
am yet to buy the matching paint.


I had a recent adventure where I discovered that some walls were painted over
wallpaper, and the wallpaper preceded some remod work to create passthroughs,
leaving me with the edgebead on the corners on top of the wallpaper. Plus the
wallpaper adheres very, very well. In which case I patched and plan to paint
again (as a front up approach).

What you have is texture paint that used to be used much more often than it is
now. Sometimes it's a choice between live-with and repaint, mucho work, or just
drywalling again. I've gone all three directions.

Cheers,
Banty


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