I recently moved my oil burner and boiler to a new location in my
house. After replumbing, wiring and venting, i was able to finally
start the system up. The system fired right up after I bled the oil
line. My next problem was that the burner was making hot water for
use, i.e. kitchen & bath, but the pipe for the baseboard heat is hot
but i feel the water just isn't circulating. The circulating pump is
running but none of the baseboards get warm. I have two bleeder valves
inline and they have been bled. What is the next step?

"If your boiler makes your domestic hot water through a device called a
tank less coil then if the controller is working correctly it will
prevent the circulator pump from operating until the temperature
setting gets up to the minimum for domestic hot water. On a call for
heat the system will rise to the (high) limit setting which should be
at least 20 degrees higher than the low setting. The differential
setting is for the low setting only."
from and many more words you need of advice see source:
http://toad.net/~jsmeenen/hydronic.html

On 8 Feb 2006 19:41:01 -0800, wrote:

I recently moved my oil burner and boiler to a new location in my
house. After replumbing, wiring and venting, i was able to finally
start the system up. The system fired right up after I bled the oil
line. My next problem was that the burner was making hot water for
use, i.e. kitchen & bath, but the pipe for the baseboard heat is hot
but i feel the water just isn't circulating. The circulating pump is
running but none of the baseboards get warm. I have two bleeder valves
inline and they have been bled. What is the next step?

If you know the the circ is running but the radiators aren't hot, it's
most likely air-locked. Just bleeding at the radiators won't
necessarily remove an air-lock because water can enter the bleed valve
from either the feed side of the radiator or the return, so you can
get water out of the bleed but still have an air-lock.

When you redid the piping did you create any isolated high spots where
the pipe goes up, over, and down without an air vent? Those areas
almost always air-lock when drained.

In any case, you're going to need to pressure purge it Hard to
describe exactly how to do it without knowing your piping layout,
zones, drains and shutoffs. But the idea is to use full water
pressure (supplied via a fast-fill valve or garden hose) to force
water through each zone and loop of piping, 1 at a time. This forces
any trapped air out. With a little head scratching you can figure out
which valves to close and which drains to open to achieve this. Of
course the boiler should be off when you do this.

HTH,

Paul