I'm getting ready to install a floating hardwood floor in two adjecent
rooms seperated by a standard doorway. The rooms are normal sized,
have a rough concrete slab floor and baseboard radiators.
The flooring will be toung and groove.
Does anyone have any suggestions, warnings of pitfalls or whatever to
make the job go more smoothly?

TIA and wish me luck.

coustanis, 1/20/2006, 11:31:19 AM,
.com wrote:

I'm getting ready to install a floating hardwood floor in two adjecent
rooms seperated by a standard doorway. The rooms are normal sized,
have a rough concrete slab floor and baseboard radiators.
The flooring will be toung and groove.
Does anyone have any suggestions, warnings of pitfalls or whatever to
make the job go more smoothly?

TIA and wish me luck.

I cannot speak for hardwood floor, but I did laminate in my house and
the one thing I suggest is purchase the transition pieces that go from
one type of flooring to another before you start so you will know
exactly how to meet up to it with your hardwood slats.

"coustanis" wrote in message
oups.com...
: I'm getting ready to install a floating hardwood floor in two
adjecent
: rooms seperated by a standard doorway. The rooms are normal
sized,
: have a rough concrete slab floor and baseboard radiators.
: The flooring will be toung and groove.
: Does anyone have any suggestions, warnings of pitfalls or
whatever to
: make the job go more smoothly?
:
: TIA and wish me luck.
:

Should be pretty easy; also, there are usually good instructions
included. Only "odd" item you might need is a "transition" piece
in the doorway. Check the spec: There are "length" specs to the
flooring. The one I bought said if it's over 30 ft, you need to
add the "transition" piece to allow for expansion in the doorway.
It's just a T shaped piece, even matches the flooring.
Check the Mfg's web site; probably lots of info there too.

Pop

"coustanis" wrote in message
oups.com...
I'm getting ready to install a floating hardwood floor in two adjecent
rooms seperated by a standard doorway. The rooms are normal sized,
have a rough concrete slab floor and baseboard radiators.
The flooring will be toung and groove.
Does anyone have any suggestions, warnings of pitfalls or whatever to
make the job go more smoothly?

TIA and wish me luck.

Hardwood or engineered wood? Can I assume this is OK for over a slab and has
the proper barrier?

If all that is correct, you will want the right tools like knee pads and a
dovetail saw to cut under the door jambs. Don't even think about starting
without knee pads.

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"coustanis" wrote in message
oups.com...
I'm getting ready to install a floating hardwood floor in two adjecent
rooms seperated by a standard doorway. The rooms are normal sized,
have a rough concrete slab floor and baseboard radiators.
The flooring will be toung and groove.
Does anyone have any suggestions, warnings of pitfalls or whatever to
make the job go more smoothly?

TIA and wish me luck.

Hardwood or engineered wood? Can I assume this is OK for over a slab and has
the proper barrier?

Most likely engineered. If it has no barrier, I'll use 2 in 1 or
whatever that plastic laminated
to foam is called.
Already have knee pads.



If all that is correct, you will want the right tools like knee pads and a
dovetail saw to cut under the door jambs. Don't even think about starting
without knee pads.

-----Original Message-----
From: coustanis ]

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"coustanis" wrote in message
oups.com...
I'm getting ready to install a floating hardwood floor in two
adjecent rooms seperated by a standard doorway. The rooms are
normal sized, have a rough concrete slab floor and
baseboard radiators.
The flooring will be toung and groove.
Does anyone have any suggestions, warnings of pitfalls or
whatever
to make the job go more smoothly?

TIA and wish me luck.

Hardwood or engineered wood? Can I assume this is OK for
over a slab
and has the proper barrier?

Most likely engineered. If it has no barrier, I'll use 2 in
1 or whatever that plastic laminated to foam is called.
Already have knee pads.


The plastic lam to foam is ok, but check what it's good for. Many of
them are ok with moisture vapor of 3 lbs. per 1,000 square feet in 24
hours. If you have more moisture than that, you'll need a better
barrier.

Polyethylene sheeting is good. So is a product by Bostik call MVP4
(it's a trowel on urethane barrier).

Regards
-Greg Pasquariello
---
Fair Pacific Bamboo
720-227-9135

www.fairpacific.com

Hey, Edwin, thanks! The laminate flooring is due next week; hadn
't thought abuot the knee pads!!

Pop


"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
...
:
: "coustanis" wrote in message
: oups.com...
: I'm getting ready to install a floating hardwood floor in two
adjecent
: rooms seperated by a standard doorway. The rooms are normal
sized,
: have a rough concrete slab floor and baseboard radiators.
: The flooring will be toung and groove.
: Does anyone have any suggestions, warnings of pitfalls or
whatever to
: make the job go more smoothly?
:
: TIA and wish me luck.
:
: Hardwood or engineered wood? Can I assume this is OK for over a
slab and has
: the proper barrier?
:
: If all that is correct, you will want the right tools like knee
pads and a
: dovetail saw to cut under the door jambs. Don't even think
about starting
: without knee pads.
:
: