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Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
Presently have an Hitachi cordless 14.4v. impact driver. Use it for driving
screws into wood. Very pleased with it so far. But this is my first ever impact driver, so I don't really know whether I should be impressed with Hitachi or the fact that I'm now using an impact driver for screws rather (ostensibly a better match) than my (corded) drill driver. That said, I am in the market to buy a cordless drill driver (since I discovered my impact driver is not quite as handy as a dedicated drill for when used for drilling). But I'm kind of torn between my long time admiration of Bosch tools and my current infatuation with Hitachi (or, at least, their cordless drivers). And since I'm not independently wealthy, I can't afford to just by one of each (although that would certainly make for a more fun afternoon). Therefore I'm seeking opinions/feedback/advice/experiences related to cordless drill drivers by Bosch and/or Hitachi (and/or any other decent quality brand worth mentioning). Thanks in advance. Ken PS: Bosch and Hitachi both make a 1/2 in. drive 18v. drill driver that puts out up to 550 in.lb. of torque, even though the Hitachi one uses a 3.0 Amp/hour battery whereas the Bosch uses an only 2.4 Amp/hour battery. |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
"KMoiarty" wrote in message ... Presently have an Hitachi cordless 14.4v. impact driver. Use it for driving screws into wood. Very pleased with it so far. But this is my first ever impact driver, so I don't really know whether I should be impressed with Hitachi or the fact that I'm now using an impact driver for screws rather (ostensibly a better match) than my (corded) drill driver. That said, I am in the market to buy a cordless drill driver (since I discovered my impact driver is not quite as handy as a dedicated drill for when used for drilling). But I'm kind of torn between my long time admiration of Bosch tools and my current infatuation with Hitachi (or, at least, their cordless drivers). And since I'm not independently wealthy, I can't afford to just by one of each (although that would certainly make for a more fun afternoon). Therefore I'm seeking opinions/feedback/advice/experiences related to cordless drill drivers by Bosch and/or Hitachi (and/or any other decent quality brand worth mentioning). Thanks in advance. Logical thing is to buy more Hitachi 14.4v tools since that is what you have started. Otherwise you will have incompatible batteries. That assumes they have a line 14.4v batteries. If not, bite the bullet and switch to a more complete line. In general, you get what you pay for; don't fuss too much about precisely what you buy. If the price is what you want to pay and it feels okay, then it is fine. |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
Go with Hitachi. You've already used their tools and like them so
there's no reason to gamble with another brand. Bosch's website doesn't state the torque of the drill or the battery chemistry. The Hitachi is lighter and it's battery will last longer. Mike |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
"KMoiarty" wrote in message drilling). But I'm kind of torn between my long time admiration of Bosch tools and my current infatuation with Hitachi (or, at least, their cordless drivers). And since I'm not independently wealthy, I can't afford to just by one of each (although that would certainly make for a more fun afternoon). IMO, Panasonic is better than either. Small, powerful. |
Quote:
I have not really heard of Hitachi power tools but that maybe just in the U.K? Generally Bosch are well known for their reliable motors in drills - I'm not sure about cordless ones though? Have you looked at DeWalt (Black and Decker's professional arm)? |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
Everything I ever bought from Hitachi was first class. Not to disparage
Bosch, but for my money, I'd buy Hitachi.-Jitney |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
If you haven't already, you might want to also ask this question in
rec.woodworking There are a lot of experienced, knowledgable ( and highly opinionated g) tool users over there. -- Jim McLaughlin Reply address is deliberately munged. If you really need to reply directly, try: jimdotmclaughlinatcomcastdotcom And you know it is a dotnet not a dotcom address. |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
"Jim McLaughlin" jim.mclaughlin wrote in message ... If you haven't already, you might want to also ask this question in rec.woodworking There are a lot of experienced, knowledgable ( and highly opinionated g) tool users over there. Hey, no fair. Just because anyone buying a different brand that what I think best is crazy, don't try to tell people I'm opinionated. |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
I don't know much about DeWalt tools in terms of standing quality-wise,
other than my Home Depot carries them (which, in my estimation, is not much of an endorsement). Interesting you say that DeWalt is the professional arm of Black & Decker! I wasn't aware of that. Ken "M.Joshi" wrote in message ... KMoiarty Wrote: Presently have an Hitachi cordless 14.4v. impact driver. Use it for driving screws into wood. Very pleased with it so far. But this is my first ever impact driver, so I don't really know whether I should be impressed with Hitachi or the fact that I'm now using an impact driver for screws rather (ostensibly a better match) than my (corded) drill driver. That said, I am in the market to buy a cordless drill driver (since I discovered my impact driver is not quite as handy as a dedicated drill for when used for drilling). But I'm kind of torn between my long time admiration of Bosch tools and my current infatuation with Hitachi (or, at least, their cordless drivers). And since I'm not independently wealthy, I can't afford to just by one of each (although that would certainly make for a more fun afternoon). Therefore I'm seeking opinions/feedback/advice/experiences related to cordless drill drivers by Bosch and/or Hitachi (and/or any other decent quality brand worth mentioning). Thanks in advance. Ken PS: Bosch and Hitachi both make a 1/2 in. drive 18v. drill driver that puts out up to 550 in.lb. of torque, even though the Hitachi one uses a 3.0 Amp/hour battery whereas the Bosch uses an only 2.4 Amp/hour battery. I have not really heard of Hitachi power tools but that maybe just in the U.K? Generally Bosch are well known for their reliable motors in drills - I'm not sure about cordless ones though? Have you looked at DeWalt (Black and Decker's professional arm)? -- M.Joshi |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
Just checked out the Panasonic web site. First thing that struck me were
the prices! $510 for the top cordless drill model (15.6V Multi Drill & Driver with 1/2" Keyless Chuck). As you say, all nice and compact. But the high price made me think that Panasonic tools must be an elite brand. Then checked out prices for these very same Panasonic models at several online retail tool vendor sites, where I found the prices to be much more in line with the competition. For example only $299 (virtually half the price) for the above model at Tool Authority (http://www.toolauthority.com/manufacturers.php?MID=21). One observation though, in general the Panasonic cordless driver lineup seems to offer somewhat less torque than competition such as Hitachi or Bosch drivers, even in models where the voltages are the same. But I guess the extra compact design of the Panasonic drivers I guess could very well account for this. BTW, another question I have just came to mind: what is the significance of "Ah" (e.g. 2.0 Ah, 2.5 Ah, 3.0 Ah, 3.5 Ah, and so on) rating of a cordless tool's battery-capacity? Up til now I had just assumed this referred to amperage-per-hour output (which, like the amperage rating of a corded tool, if multiplied by the voltage [e.g 12. for 12v. cordless models, between 110 and 120 for all corded models] yields maximum energy output [or consumption, respectively] per hour). But I'd like to somehow find out for certain from someone if I am on the right track in this or not... Because if this is true how can the most powerful cordless tool possibly keep pace with an average corded one which has far higher, both, amp and voltage numbers? Thanks. Ken "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message .. . [...] IMO, Panasonic is better than either. Small, powerful. |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
"KMoiarty" wrote in message BTW, another question I have just came to mind: what is the significance of "Ah" (e.g. 2.0 Ah, 2.5 Ah, 3.0 Ah, 3.5 Ah, and so on) rating of a cordless tool's battery-capacity? Up til now I had just assumed this referred to amperage-per-hour output (which, like the amperage rating of a corded tool, if multiplied by the voltage [e.g 12. for 12v. cordless models, between 110 and 120 for all corded models] yields maximum energy output [or consumption, respectively] per hour). But I'd like to somehow find out for certain from someone if I am on the right track in this or not... Because if this is true how can the most powerful cordless tool possibly keep pace with an average corded one which has far higher, both, amp and voltage numbers? Thanks. The AH rating is how much power is available. Some tools use that power more efficiently than others. None can truly keep up with a corded tool long term. They may have equal power for a short time, but there are compromises to get decent run time from the batteries. |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message .. . "KMoiarty" wrote in message BTW, another question I have just came to mind: what is the significance of "Ah" (e.g. 2.0 Ah, 2.5 Ah, 3.0 Ah, 3.5 Ah, and so on) rating of a cordless tool's battery-capacity? Up til now I had just assumed this referred to amperage-per-hour output (which, like the amperage rating of a corded tool, if multiplied by the voltage [e.g 12. for 12v. cordless models, between 110 and 120 for all corded models] yields maximum energy output [or consumption, respectively] per hour). But I'd like to somehow find out for certain from someone if I am on the right track in this or not... Because if this is true how can the most powerful cordless tool possibly keep pace with an average corded one which has far higher, both, amp and voltage numbers? Thanks. The AH rating is how much power is available. Some tools use that power more efficiently than others. None can truly keep up with a corded tool long term. They may have equal power for a short time, but there are compromises to get decent run time from the batteries. Going to be interesting to see how the new Milwaukee V28 Ion line holds up. |
Quote:
You are on the right track regarding Ah relating to the amperage-per-hour. It is a figure quoted on battery packs that determines the amount of current that is supplied for an hour i.e a measure of the battery's capacity. Depending on how much current the motor draws, this will determine how long you can use the power tool for before the battery needs to be swapped or recharged. Generally the larger the Ah rating, the bigger the physical size and probably weight of the battery and hence the overall weight of the power tool. |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
KMoiarty wrote: Just checked out the Panasonic web site. First thing that struck me were the prices! $510 for the top cordless drill model (15.6V Multi Drill & Driver with 1/2" Keyless Chuck). As you say, all nice and compact. But the high price made me think that Panasonic tools must be an elite brand. Then checked out prices for these very same Panasonic models at several online retail tool vendor sites, where I found the prices to be much more in line with the competition. For example only $299 (virtually half the price) for the above model at Tool Authority (http://www.toolauthority.com/manufacturers.php?MID=21). One observation though, in general the Panasonic cordless driver lineup seems to offer somewhat less torque than competition such as Hitachi or Bosch drivers, even in models where the voltages are the same. But I guess the extra compact design of the Panasonic drivers I guess could very well account for this. BTW, another question I have just came to mind: what is the significance of "Ah" (e.g. 2.0 Ah, 2.5 Ah, 3.0 Ah, 3.5 Ah, and so on) rating of a cordless tool's battery-capacity? Up til now I had just assumed this referred to amperage-per-hour output (which, like the amperage rating of a corded tool, if multiplied by the voltage [e.g 12. for 12v. cordless models, between 110 and 120 for all corded models] yields maximum energy output [or consumption, respectively] per hour). But I'd like to somehow find out for certain from someone if I am on the right track in this or not... Because if this is true how can the most powerful cordless tool possibly keep pace with an average corded one which has far higher, both, amp and voltage numbers? Thanks. Ken, You are right that amp-hours is a measure of battery capacity. But it's amps X hours instead of amps per hour. So, a 2 amp-hour battery will deliver 2 amps for 1 hour or 1 amp for 2 hours (at its rated voltage). Amp-hours gives you a measure of run-time, but I think it's irrelevant to most of us. That's because, unless your drill is in continuous use at high load, your second battery will charge long before your first runs down. I guess if you have to climb down off a ladder every time you need to change batteries, more amp-hours would get to be more important. I'm on my 5th cordless drill and currently own three that work. Of all my tools, I consider a cordless drill to be the most indispensable. I use one for almost every single project around the house or in the shop. However . . .before you drop three hundred bucks on a cordless drill, consider this: Batteries have a maximum life of about 5-7 years or so, even with light use. Unless you are using the thing every day, your batteries will die long before you wear out the tool. The price of two replacement batteries is usually about 2/3 the price of the whole kit with drill, batteries and charger. So, a cordless drill is a somewhat disposable item, unlike its corded cousin. For $120 or so, you can buy a top quality 12 volt drill from your favorite manufacturer. Forget the specs, buy the one that feels best in your hand. Then spend another $100 or so for a good corded drill for those very rare occasions when your cordless just isn't up to the task. You'll pass the corded drill down to your grandchildren, and you have less than half the money tied up in disposables. Some people just like to have the "best" of whatever they own. I'm one of those too. But I've come to the conclusion that chasing the "best" in cordless is just too expensive. Your mileage may vary DonkeyHody "Give a hungry man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach him to fish .. . . and he will sit in a boat and drink beer all day." |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
I had an older 14.4 volt Bosch and when
it "disappearded," I immediately went and got another Bosch 14.4. BTW, don't put it on the trunk door of your wife's car ... nuf said. The one thing that I like about the Bosch is the one hand keyless chuck. There is no back ring to hold. The shaft internally locks when the dirll is not running, so it tightens with one hand. BTW, the new one also has some ratchetting as it tightens. This is a great unit. BTW, someone mentioned that DeWalt is the pro arm of B&D, well Bosch and Skil are together (at least in the US); Bosch being the higher end. M.Joshi wrote: KMoiarty Wrote: Presently have an Hitachi cordless 14.4v. impact driver. Use it for driving screws into wood. Very pleased with it so far. But this is my first ever impact driver, so I don't really know whether I should be impressed with Hitachi or the fact that I'm now using an impact driver for screws rather (ostensibly a better match) than my (corded) drill driver. That said, I am in the market to buy a cordless drill driver (since I discovered my impact driver is not quite as handy as a dedicated drill for when used for drilling). But I'm kind of torn between my long time admiration of Bosch tools and my current infatuation with Hitachi (or, at least, their cordless drivers). And since I'm not independently wealthy, I can't afford to just by one of each (although that would certainly make for a more fun afternoon). Therefore I'm seeking opinions/feedback/advice/experiences related to cordless drill drivers by Bosch and/or Hitachi (and/or any other decent quality brand worth mentioning). Thanks in advance. Ken PS: Bosch and Hitachi both make a 1/2 in. drive 18v. drill driver that puts out up to 550 in.lb. of torque, even though the Hitachi one uses a 3.0 Amp/hour battery whereas the Bosch uses an only 2.4 Amp/hour battery. I have not really heard of Hitachi power tools but that maybe just in the U.K? Generally Bosch are well known for their reliable motors in drills - I'm not sure about cordless ones though? Have you looked at DeWalt (Black and Decker's professional arm)? |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
Ken,
Listen to DonkeyHody, best advice here. I did what he talks about only I'll go one better, buy a top quality corded drill at a used tool store, I got a Milwaukee 1/2" corded hole shooter for 60 bucks at a used tool store and I found a Dewalt 3/8" 14.4 volt cordelss at the local home center one day for 100 bucks with two batteries/charger. Total investment 160 bucks, A used Milwaukee (corded) drill is a good investment, these things are like tanks, they'll outlive our kids kids. My two cents, Paul "DonkeyHody" wrote in message ups.com... KMoiarty wrote: Just checked out the Panasonic web site. First thing that struck me were the prices! $510 for the top cordless drill model (15.6V Multi Drill & Driver with 1/2" Keyless Chuck). As you say, all nice and compact. But the high price made me think that Panasonic tools must be an elite brand. Then checked out prices for these very same Panasonic models at several online retail tool vendor sites, where I found the prices to be much more in line with the competition. For example only $299 (virtually half the price) for the above model at Tool Authority (http://www.toolauthority.com/manufacturers.php?MID=21). One observation though, in general the Panasonic cordless driver lineup seems to offer somewhat less torque than competition such as Hitachi or Bosch drivers, even in models where the voltages are the same. But I guess the extra compact design of the Panasonic drivers I guess could very well account for this. BTW, another question I have just came to mind: what is the significance of "Ah" (e.g. 2.0 Ah, 2.5 Ah, 3.0 Ah, 3.5 Ah, and so on) rating of a cordless tool's battery-capacity? Up til now I had just assumed this referred to amperage-per-hour output (which, like the amperage rating of a corded tool, if multiplied by the voltage [e.g 12. for 12v. cordless models, between 110 and 120 for all corded models] yields maximum energy output [or consumption, respectively] per hour). But I'd like to somehow find out for certain from someone if I am on the right track in this or not... Because if this is true how can the most powerful cordless tool possibly keep pace with an average corded one which has far higher, both, amp and voltage numbers? Thanks. Ken, You are right that amp-hours is a measure of battery capacity. But it's amps X hours instead of amps per hour. So, a 2 amp-hour battery will deliver 2 amps for 1 hour or 1 amp for 2 hours (at its rated voltage). Amp-hours gives you a measure of run-time, but I think it's irrelevant to most of us. That's because, unless your drill is in continuous use at high load, your second battery will charge long before your first runs down. I guess if you have to climb down off a ladder every time you need to change batteries, more amp-hours would get to be more important. I'm on my 5th cordless drill and currently own three that work. Of all my tools, I consider a cordless drill to be the most indispensable. I use one for almost every single project around the house or in the shop. However . . .before you drop three hundred bucks on a cordless drill, consider this: Batteries have a maximum life of about 5-7 years or so, even with light use. Unless you are using the thing every day, your batteries will die long before you wear out the tool. The price of two replacement batteries is usually about 2/3 the price of the whole kit with drill, batteries and charger. So, a cordless drill is a somewhat disposable item, unlike its corded cousin. For $120 or so, you can buy a top quality 12 volt drill from your favorite manufacturer. Forget the specs, buy the one that feels best in your hand. Then spend another $100 or so for a good corded drill for those very rare occasions when your cordless just isn't up to the task. You'll pass the corded drill down to your grandchildren, and you have less than half the money tied up in disposables. Some people just like to have the "best" of whatever they own. I'm one of those too. But I've come to the conclusion that chasing the "best" in cordless is just too expensive. Your mileage may vary DonkeyHody "Give a hungry man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach him to fish . . . and he will sit in a boat and drink beer all day." |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
However . . .before you drop three hundred bucks on a cordless drill, consider this: Batteries have a maximum life of about 5-7 years or so, even with light use. Unless you are using the thing every day, your batteries will die long before you wear out the tool. I bought a Rdgid 12V at HD. Lifetime service warranty which incudes the battery. Plenty of power, nice chuck. Recommended. Mitch |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
Wow... agree with everyone here. I have spent $$$ on different
cordless drills, and they are something I use every day. Years ago, I bought a 14V Ryobi for $99, as I could not justify buying the 18V DeWalt I really wanted for $329. I bought the DeWalt when there was a sale on them for $299 or something like that. Along the way, I got a great deal on a 14V Sears Professional 14V and bought a Hitachi 12V for some reason or another. All but the Sears Professional (the newest) are dead now. The batteries/drills lasted about 3-4 years a piece, with the last year or so of each needing the second battery to be on the ready at any time. Oddly, the one that was used the hardest was the Ryobi, and it still works for my roofing guys to use to drive about 25 1/2" screws before dying. Perfect for them, as it is covered with tar and scuffed beyond recognition. That drill has paid for itself about 100 times over. The DeWalt 18V was the one I used the most, and you will come to appreciate the amp hour rating when you are hanging and finishing doors. Drilling out a door lockset, the the deadbolt, the peephole, the extra security devices, attaching the closer and then fitting the hinges is not for a weenie drill. The DeWalt worked great, and it last about 3 years with me using it just like a corded drill. But when the batteries died to about 20 minutes of use and I was contemplating a new battery, the transmission gears gave up, so now I am using the Sears. The Sears has the same amount of torque and it is a smaller drill. It seems to have about the same battery life, and it was on sale for $99 in the display/scratch/dent basket when I bought it. It seems to be a pretty good drill. So I agree with all here. Find a drill that feels good in your hand, and seems to have some balance. If you are using it for home projects and need it to drive 40-50 screws and drill a few holes every once in a while, almost anything you buy will be fine. One of my subs even buys those $19 POS drills at Harbor Freight and loves them since they are so cheap. He has to charge them for six hours or something along those lines, but they seem pretty tough. Robert |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
MB wrote: However . . .before you drop three hundred bucks on a cordless drill, consider this: Batteries have a maximum life of about 5-7 years or so, even with light use. Unless you are using the thing every day, your batteries will die long before you wear out the tool. I bought a Rdgid 12V at HD. Lifetime service warranty which incudes the battery. Plenty of power, nice chuck. Recommended. I forgot about Rigid. As long as their lifetime warranty applies to batteries, they get my vote on cordless, assuming you like the tool at all. DonkeyHody "We should be careful to get out of an experience only the wisdom that is in it - and stop there; lest we be like the cat that sits down on a hot stove-lid. She will never sit down on a hot stove-lid again---and that is well; but also she will never sit down on a cold one anymore." - Mark Twain |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
On 29 Dec 2005 06:11:07 -0800, "DonkeyHody"
wrote: However . . .before you drop three hundred bucks on a cordless drill, consider this: Batteries have a maximum life of about 5-7 years or so, even with light use. Unless you are using the thing every day, your batteries will die long before you wear out the tool. The price of two replacement batteries is usually about 2/3 the price of the whole kit with drill, batteries and charger. So, a cordless drill is a somewhat disposable item, unlike its corded cousin. I have got a couple of drills, both Ni-cad and I intend to rebuild the battery pack. Easily done, just buy the rightnumber of batteries and wire them in series in teh pack. I presume you can do the same with the lithium batteries etc. |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
|
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
|
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
Reminds me of what I did with my Phillips/Norelco cordless shaver a few
years ago when the built-in Ni-Cads began to fade. When I took the unit apart I discovered that the batteries had been installed by the manufacturer in such a way as to prevent anyone from replacing them. I took this as a challenge to "my rights" as a consumer and after a few days of thinking it through plus asking key questions, figured out a way to successfully replace the worn out Ni-Cads with new ones. The shaver is now 18 years old and runs like new. Unfortunately, my Dad died two months ago and I inherited his much nicer, more advanced top of the line Phillips/Norelco shaver, which I had bought for him as a Christmas gift a couple of years ago. So my old perfectly good shaver now sits unused in a drawer. Guess it's time to give it away to someone else who could use a good shaver. The moral is, never throw out a cordless appliance only because its batteries have expired; even if it's been designed to prevent them from being serviced. Ken wrote in message ... On 29 Dec 2005 06:11:07 -0800, "DonkeyHody" wrote: However . . .before you drop three hundred bucks on a cordless drill, consider this: Batteries have a maximum life of about 5-7 years or so, even with light use. Unless you are using the thing every day, your batteries will die long before you wear out the tool. The price of two replacement batteries is usually about 2/3 the price of the whole kit with drill, batteries and charger. So, a cordless drill is a somewhat disposable item, unlike its corded cousin. I have got a couple of drills, both Ni-cad and I intend to rebuild the battery pack. Easily done, just buy the rightnumber of batteries and wire them in series in teh pack. I presume you can do the same with the lithium batteries etc. |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
"DonkeyHody" wrote in message oups.com... wrote: I have got a couple of drills, both Ni-cad and I intend to rebuild the battery pack. Easily done, just buy the rightnumber of batteries and wire them in series in teh pack. I presume you can do the same with the lithium batteries etc. You may be able to do that, but I don't think it's a viable option for most of us. First problem is getting into the plastic battery case. Mine seems to be fused together with no way to get in without destroying it. This seems similar to a challenge I had to get inside and repair a sealed fan speed-control switch for my car (for which used parts are now rare and new ones are unreasonably expensive, plus take ages to arrive after placing in an order). In this case I carefully cut the plastic casing open with a blade-shaped hot soldering iron tip. Then after fixing the insides, I resealed the case by again using soldering iron (with a different tip) to meld edges back together again. Didn't look very neat, but it's concealed from view and it did the trick. Next problem is where to get replacement batteries of the correct dimensions and voltages. Look for an electronic technician's supply outlet. There's at least one in the town where I live which carries a whole assortment of such rechargeable batteries and can order in anything you don't see on the shelf. Not saying it can't be done, I'm just not sure it's worth the trouble. You're right. Unless you have the time to tinker and you just happen to derive enjoyment from such challenges, it is probably is not worth your trouble; especially if you rely on the tool for professional work and therefore can't tolerate the occasional unexpected 'surprise'. For example, discovering while busy on the job that your battery-case re-sealing work could have been reinforced or strengthened better to prevent the seam from splitting open after an accidental, but routinely common, fall to the floor... On the other hand, if you intend to replace batteries this way into the future, once you get the knack of it, or with refinement of technique along with greater efficiency and practicality gained from further practice and experience, one may decide it to be worth one's while in the long run, I don't know. Ken |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
KMoiarty wrote: This seems similar to a challenge I had to get inside and repair a sealed fan speed-control switch for my car (for which used parts are now rare and new ones are unreasonably expensive, plus take ages to arrive after placing in an order). In this case I carefully cut the plastic casing open with a blade-shaped hot soldering iron tip. Then after fixing the insides, I resealed the case by again using soldering iron (with a different tip) to meld edges back together again. Didn't look very neat, but it's concealed from view and it did the trick. It's funny how our experiences mold our personalities. My Dad came of age during the Great Depression, and it had a profound effect on him. His mantra was repeated to me at least once a week during my formative years. "Use it up, wear it out. Make it do, or do without." Once he had a tire with a slow leak. I noticed the low tire, dragged the air compressor out of the barn and filled the tire up for him. "There, Dad, that should hold you 'til you can get to a service station and get it fixed." "Fixed?? There's nothing wrong with that tire. It just goes down." Last summer, the computerized climate control quit working on his '92 Cadillac (barely broken in with 165,000 miles). Rather than pay to get it fixed, he ran a wire from the AC compressor back to the base of the windshield. Too much trouble to fish the wire through a hole in the firewall (he's 82). So he just ran the wire outside around the "A" pillar and back in through the open driver's door. The wire continues to a residential light switch in a handi-box he mounted to the steering column with zip ties. When it gets too hot, he turns the AC on. When it gets too cold, he turns it off. Growing up on a farm with him had a profound effect on me. I have absolutely no tolerance for anything "rigged". Nothing at my place is held together with baling wire or duct tape. I may not have all the toys I want, but the ones I have are nice. But I'll probably die broke instead of comfortable like him. DonkeyHody "We should be careful to get out of an experience only the wisdom that is in it - and stop there; lest we be like the cat that sits down on a hot stove-lid. She will never sit down on a hot stove-lid again---and that is well; but also she will never sit down on a cold one anymore." - Mark Twain |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
"MB" wrote in message oups.com... However . . .before you drop three hundred bucks on a cordless drill, consider this: Batteries have a maximum life of about 5-7 years or so, even with light use. Unless you are using the thing every day, your batteries will die long before you wear out the tool. I bought a Rdgid 12V at HD. Lifetime service warranty which incudes the battery. Plenty of power, nice chuck. Recommended. Mitch Made 100% in China, looks ok...runs fine for a homeowner. for someone that makes his living with his tools, we would pass. |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
"DonkeyHody" wrote in message Last summer, the computerized climate control quit working on his '92 Cadillac (barely broken in with 165,000 miles). Rather than pay to get it fixed, he ran a wire from the AC compressor back to the base of the windshield. Too much trouble to fish the wire through a hole in the firewall (he's 82). So he just ran the wire outside around the "A" pillar and back in through the open driver's door. The wire continues to a residential light switch in a handi-box he mounted to the steering column with zip ties. When it gets too hot, he turns the AC on. When it gets too cold, he turns it off. You just have to love a guy like that. |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
"CBHVAC" wrote in message ... "MB" wrote in message oups.com... [...] I bought a Rdgid 12V at HD. Lifetime service warranty which incudes the battery. Plenty of power, nice chuck. Recommended. Mitch Made 100% in China, looks ok...runs fine for a homeowner. for someone that makes his living with his tools, we would pass. But what isn't made in China these days? For example, Hitachi is a well known Japanese manufacturer whose respectable-quality products we naturally expect, logically enough, to be made in Japan. But not so with my new Hitachi (model WH 14DMR) impact driver. At the bottom of the specs label situated on the housing it reads (in finer print than everything above it), "Made in China". Ken |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
"CBHVAC" wrote in message Going to be interesting to see how the new Milwaukee V28 Ion line holds up. I love the Pit Stop and Helicopter commercials. Check their web page if you haven't seen them. http://www.v28power.com/flash.htm |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
On Fri, 30 Dec 2005 03:46:38 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:
"CBHVAC" wrote in message Going to be interesting to see how the new Milwaukee V28 Ion line holds up. I love the Pit Stop and Helicopter commercials. Check their web page if you haven't seen them. http://www.v28power.com/flash.htm Hadn't seen the helipcopter commercial before. Thanks for the link. :-) +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
"DonkeyHody" wrote in message ups.com... KMoiarty wrote: This seems similar to a challenge I had to get inside and repair a sealed fan speed-control switch for my car (for which used parts are now rare and new ones are unreasonably expensive, plus take ages to arrive after placing in an order). In this case I carefully cut the plastic casing open with a blade-shaped hot soldering iron tip. Then after fixing the insides, I resealed the case by again using soldering iron (with a different tip) to meld edges back together again. Didn't look very neat, but it's concealed from view and it did the trick. It's funny how our experiences mold our personalities. My Dad came of age during the Great Depression, and it had a profound effect on him. His mantra was repeated to me at least once a week during my formative years. "Use it up, wear it out. Make it do, or do without." Once he had a tire with a slow leak. I noticed the low tire, dragged the air compressor out of the barn and filled the tire up for him. "There, Dad, that should hold you 'til you can get to a service station and get it fixed." "Fixed?? There's nothing wrong with that tire. It just goes down." Last summer, the computerized climate control quit working on his '92 Cadillac (barely broken in with 165,000 miles). Rather than pay to get it fixed, he ran a wire from the AC compressor back to the base of the windshield. Too much trouble to fish the wire through a hole in the firewall (he's 82). So he just ran the wire outside around the "A" pillar and back in through the open driver's door. The wire continues to a residential light switch in a handi-box he mounted to the steering column with zip ties. When it gets too hot, he turns the AC on. When it gets too cold, he turns it off. Growing up on a farm with him had a profound effect on me. I have absolutely no tolerance for anything "rigged". Nothing at my place is held together with baling wire or duct tape. I may not have all the toys I want, but the ones I have are nice. But I'll probably die broke instead of comfortable like him. Well compared to your Dad, at 46 I'm just a youngster, never having had to experience anything like the great depression. But I'm a bit of a rebel when it comes to today's disposable modular car parts, where there's no apparent advantage over the old fashioned kind except more money to the manufacturer when the most minor of repairs are needed. Maybe I learned this from my Dad because he was always handy at repairing things that other people wouldn't even try to repair. In fact, before struck by chronic illness, he had a humble but thriving small appliance sales and repair business whose customer base largely was attracted to his reputation for repairing items other dealers would either refuse to, or do so for a price that was in line with all that actually needed to be done. For example, if somebody's vacuum cleaner's motor brushes were worn out, and the wholesale cost for a set of replacement brushes was unreasonably steep, my Dad would simply take a larger sized set of brushes out of his collection of otherwise worthless spare parts, take a couple of minutes to file them to the size required, install them and the machine and it would be running like new again. I did this myself about 8 years ago when my car's defrost motor conked out, due to what I discovered was in fact worn out brushes. Paid $7 for a set of vacuum cleaner brushes (after convincing the reluctant owner of the vacuum cleaner store what made me presume he even carried such a part in his store, and then that I wasn't attempting to deprive him of any business by intending to use them to repair my own vacuum cleaner. funny Filed them to the right shape and size, etc...etc... I still drive the same car (with almost 300,000 km on the odometer) and the defrost motor hasn't been any problem whatsoever since. Saved myself a lot of money not having to buy, not merely a replacement motor per se, but the whole modular unit which a new defrost/heater motor comes encased in. (PS: The car is a '91 Dodge/Mitsubishi Colt 200, which I bought when it was new.) Ken |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
In article .com,
says... wrote: I have got a couple of drills, both Ni-cad and I intend to rebuild the battery pack. Easily done, just buy the rightnumber of batteries and wire them in series in teh pack. I presume you can do the same with the lithium batteries etc. Uhh, assuming the battery packs were built using standard cell sizes. My 18V battery packs certainly don't look like they contain 15 AA cells inside (AAA won't provide enough current). Most battery packs take what's called a "sub-C" cell. These are standard sizes, just not what you're used to from the bunny. BTW, I bought a Porter-Cable 14.4V driver to supliment my 12V Makita (batteries going) a couple of years ago. The PC driver is quite nice, as are the other PC tools I've bought. -- Keith |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
|
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
On Fri, 30 Dec 2005 03:46:38 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote: "CBHVAC" wrote in message Going to be interesting to see how the new Milwaukee V28 Ion line holds up. Consumer reports says that the drill they tested had quite a bit of power. So much so that it burned out its motor during their test. Ouch. Greg Guarino |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
"KMoiarty" wrote in message ... Further to my inquiry below, does anyone happen to know how a typical corded driver would rate if actual torque specifications were provided for corded drivers like they are for cordless? For example, roughly how many inch-pounds of maximum torque from, say, my 4.6 amp (Skil "Slugger", geared to rev up to 2600 rpm) corded drill? Ken [...] BTW, another question I have just came to mind: what is the significance of "Ah" (e.g. 2.0 Ah, 2.5 Ah, 3.0 Ah, 3.5 Ah, and so on) rating of a cordless tool's battery-capacity? Up til now I had just assumed this referred to amperage-per-hour output (which, like the amperage rating of a corded tool, if multiplied by the voltage [e.g 12. for 12v. cordless models, between 110 and 120 for all corded models] yields maximum energy output [or consumption, respectively] per hour). But I'd like to somehow find out for certain from someone if I am on the right track in this or not... Because if this is true how can the most powerful cordless tool possibly keep pace with an average corded one which has far higher, both, amp and voltage numbers? Thanks. Ken "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message .. . [...] IMO, Panasonic is better than either. Small, powerful. |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
"KMoiarty" wrote in message ... "CBHVAC" wrote in message ... "MB" wrote in message oups.com... [...] I bought a Rdgid 12V at HD. Lifetime service warranty which incudes the battery. Plenty of power, nice chuck. Recommended. Mitch Made 100% in China, looks ok...runs fine for a homeowner. for someone that makes his living with his tools, we would pass. But what isn't made in China these days? For example, Hitachi is a well known Japanese manufacturer whose respectable-quality products we naturally expect, logically enough, to be made in Japan. But not so with my new Hitachi (model WH 14DMR) impact driver. At the bottom of the specs label situated on the housing it reads (in finer print than everything above it), "Made in China". Ken Point taken, but if you CAN buy something still made here, and its rock solid, why not? |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
KMoiarty wrote: Further to my inquiry below, does anyone happen to know how a typical corded driver would rate if actual torque specifications were provided for corded drivers like they are for cordless? For example, roughly how many inch-pounds of maximum torque from, say, my 4.6 amp (Skil "Slugger", geared to rev up to 2600 rpm) corded drill? Ken, I wish it were that easy. I can tell you that 4.6 amps at 120 volts translates to 18 inch pounds of theoretical torque at 2600 rpm. BUT (you knew there would be a but, didn't you?) that doesn't consider friction losses in the gear box which will eat a lot of that torque. And it doesn't consider that the motor will slow down when a load is applied, and will generate more torque at lower speeds. Just how much torque it can develop is determined by the torque curve of that particular motor. That particular drill probably won't develop as much ultimate torque as a good cordless. Torque alone is not a good indicator of performance because it ignores speed. If you grab the chuck, the cordless seems stronger, especially in low gear. But when put to the task of drilling, your "Slugger" is whizzing around at close to 2600 rpm, while the cordless is chugging along at under 1400, even in high gear. Consumers are left without reliable ways to compare one cordless to another, much less cordless to corded. Check out the Consumer Reports article where they found some higher-voltage drills didn't develop as much power as other lower-voltage ones. That's why I said ignore the specs and buy what feels good in your hand. The major brands all put out enough power for most of our uses. When that's not enough, grab your extension cord. But you are right that cordless cannot develop as much power as even a medium duty corded drill. By the way, a 4.6 amp 2600 rpm B&D wasn't exactly what I had in mind when I suggested a corded drill for those times when your cordless couldn't get the job done. I was thinking more along the lines of this 7.8 amp Dewalt geared to turn 850 rpm. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...29617?n=228013. You won't have any trouble knowing whether that one is stronger than a cordless. DonkeyHody "Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him." |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
I looked into this and now have 2 options. 30 sub C cells @ 2.10 ea. for 2
battery packs plus shipping and my time to re-build them or my local hardware store has the drill, 2 batteries, charger and case for 60 buck on sale right now. wrote in message ... On 29 Dec 2005 06:11:07 -0800, "DonkeyHody" wrote: However . . .before you drop three hundred bucks on a cordless drill, consider this: Batteries have a maximum life of about 5-7 years or so, even with light use. Unless you are using the thing every day, your batteries will die long before you wear out the tool. The price of two replacement batteries is usually about 2/3 the price of the whole kit with drill, batteries and charger. So, a cordless drill is a somewhat disposable item, unlike its corded cousin. I have got a couple of drills, both Ni-cad and I intend to rebuild the battery pack. Easily done, just buy the rightnumber of batteries and wire them in series in teh pack. I presume you can do the same with the lithium batteries etc. |
Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
habbi, you have the right idea. My first cordless takes batteries at
CDN$89.95 each. Cells for rebuild about CDN$60 per pack. More powerful drill, case, 2 batteries, charger was CDN$129.95. The stuff is not worth fixing. (One of the reasons Toronto is in trouble for landfill space - nothing is worth fixing.) Bruce "habbi" wrote in message ... I looked into this and now have 2 options. 30 sub C cells @ 2.10 ea. for 2 battery packs plus shipping and my time to re-build them or my local hardware store has the drill, 2 batteries, charger and case for 60 buck on sale right now. wrote in message ... On 29 Dec 2005 06:11:07 -0800, "DonkeyHody" wrote: However . . .before you drop three hundred bucks on a cordless drill, consider this: Batteries have a maximum life of about 5-7 years or so, even with light use. Unless you are using the thing every day, your batteries will die long before you wear out the tool. The price of two replacement batteries is usually about 2/3 the price of the whole kit with drill, batteries and charger. So, a cordless drill is a somewhat disposable item, unlike its corded cousin. I have got a couple of drills, both Ni-cad and I intend to rebuild the battery pack. Easily done, just buy the rightnumber of batteries and wire them in series in teh pack. I presume you can do the same with the lithium batteries etc. |
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