I need to start drywalling a room that was originally build for plaster.
While the studs are 16" on center, they don't line up with the corners. What
is recommended in this situation? Cut the drywall in lenth to match the
studs I have or add in a few extra studs at the 8' lenths?

Obviously added extra joists in the ceiling isn't pratical, so I suspect
I'll have to cut to match there.

Thanks,
Bernie

you will be cutting the drywall to fit the studs.
you may also be cutting the drywall into a manageable weight if you are
working without a helper or with heavier fire rated X.
if you are trying to get out of the job, check the unevenness of the
old studs with a laser level throughout the site first.
you must not shy away from buying drywall, cutting it to any size you
want, and taping and finishing it. unless your neighbor does it for you
buy some drywall tools on ebay and get the party started.

http://www.google.com/search?sourcei...o+hang+drywall
http://cgi.ebay.com/INNOVATIVE-DRYWA...c mdZViewItem

Bernie Hunt wrote:
I need to start drywalling a room that was originally build for plaster.
While the studs are 16" on center, they don't line up with the corners. What
is recommended in this situation? Cut the drywall in lenth to match the
studs I have or add in a few extra studs at the 8' lenths?

Obviously added extra joists in the ceiling isn't pratical, so I suspect
I'll have to cut to match there.

None of the walls have all the studs on 16" centers? Usually only the
exterior walls have to be fudged as they were laid out for sheathing,
not drywall.

You can run the boards long and use 4' strips of plywood as a backer
behind the floating seams. They also make metal and plastic slips
which replace the plywood backer.

R

Funny you mention the Free Hands. I ordered a pair the other day. They look
interesting and for the price are worth checking out.

Can't get out of the job, it's my own house, hahahaha.

Bernie

"buffalobill" wrote in message
oups.com...
you will be cutting the drywall to fit the studs.
you may also be cutting the drywall into a manageable weight if you are
working without a helper or with heavier fire rated X.
if you are trying to get out of the job, check the unevenness of the
old studs with a laser level throughout the site first.
you must not shy away from buying drywall, cutting it to any size you
want, and taping and finishing it. unless your neighbor does it for you
buy some drywall tools on ebay and get the party started.

http://www.google.com/search?sourcei...o+hang+drywall
http://cgi.ebay.com/INNOVATIVE-DRYWA...c mdZViewItem

Bernie,
You already know that the old carpenters used nominal 16 o.c.
studs, but they did not have to be as accurate to break on sheet
edges. The lathers did not need accurate centers as they custom
cut the rough cut lath to fit with their hatchet/hammers. You
will probably find that they didn't worry about straight and
square either. You have several choices.

You can ignore trying to make centers and deliberately miss them
and cut scrap ply/ metal stud/ 2x4 in-the-flat pieces to fasten
the butt ends of sheet to each other.

You can custom cut the drywall to make stud breaks. This will
make things a bit harder to tape and bed and may cause you to use
more sheets.

You can add extra studs to make the centers and/or scab pieces on
the side(s) of studs and joists.

It has become quite common to make inside corners without all the
nailing studs. The method is to cut the back paper on the rock
only and hang the sheet through the corner, leaving the face paper
intact. This is another trick that almost demands a helper.

I don't envy your situation, though many of us have been
there/done that. I prefer the first option of deliberately
missing breaking studs and adding scrap. This method is also
quite effective on ceilings. It is worth every penny to rent a
drywall hoist for the ceiling unless you have help. Most lumber
yards have them for rent by the day.


(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Bernie Hunt" wrote in message
...
I need to start drywalling a room that was originally build for
plaster. While the studs are 16" on center, they don't line up
with the corners. What is recommended in this situation? Cut the
drywall in lenth to match the studs I have or add in a few extra
studs at the 8' lenths?

Obviously added extra joists in the ceiling isn't pratical, so I
suspect I'll have to cut to match there.

Thanks,
Bernie

If the ceiling's not too low, and your love of taping butt joints not
so great, it may be worth to add 1x3 strap, perpendicular to joists, at
16 OC to avoid custom cutting sheets. It also gives you a little wider
backing for the seams. In my experience, no room is ever so perfectly
square that you won't have to make some tapered cuts to avoid gaps
anyway.

I'm adding this post for the archives. I ended solving two problems with one
solution. I always hated taping butt joints and I didn't have the joints
landing on studs. I found these premade backer boards that made taping the
butt joints simple!

http://www.butthanger.com/rock_splicer.html

The butt joints came out tapered like the factory edges and taping was
simple, no crowned joints!

I actually had to cut back a couple of the panels to make sure they didn't
land on studs, hahahaha.

Bernie


"DanG" wrote in message
news:1a8hf.9349$0h5.8188@dukeread10...
Bernie,
You already know that the old carpenters used nominal 16 o.c. studs, but
they did not have to be as accurate to break on sheet edges. The lathers
did not need accurate centers as they custom cut the rough cut lath to fit
with their hatchet/hammers. You will probably find that they didn't worry
about straight and square either. You have several choices.

You can ignore trying to make centers and deliberately miss them and cut
scrap ply/ metal stud/ 2x4 in-the-flat pieces to fasten the butt ends of
sheet to each other.

You can custom cut the drywall to make stud breaks. This will make things
a bit harder to tape and bed and may cause you to use more sheets.

You can add extra studs to make the centers and/or scab pieces on the
side(s) of studs and joists.

It has become quite common to make inside corners without all the nailing
studs. The method is to cut the back paper on the rock only and hang the
sheet through the corner, leaving the face paper intact. This is another
trick that almost demands a helper.

I don't envy your situation, though many of us have been there/done that.
I prefer the first option of deliberately missing breaking studs and
adding scrap. This method is also quite effective on ceilings. It is
worth every penny to rent a drywall hoist for the ceiling unless you have
help. Most lumber yards have them for rent by the day.


(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Bernie Hunt" wrote in message
...
I need to start drywalling a room that was originally build for plaster.
While the studs are 16" on center, they don't line up with the corners.
What is recommended in this situation? Cut the drywall in lenth to match
the studs I have or add in a few extra studs at the 8' lenths?

Obviously added extra joists in the ceiling isn't pratical, so I suspect
I'll have to cut to match there.

Thanks,
Bernie

Bernie Hunt wrote:
I'm adding this post for the archives. I ended solving two problems with one
solution. I always hated taping butt joints and I didn't have the joints
landing on studs. I found these premade backer boards that made taping the
butt joints simple!

http://www.butthanger.com/rock_splicer.html

The butt joints came out tapered like the factory edges and taping was
simple, no crowned joints!

I actually had to cut back a couple of the panels to make sure they didn't
land on studs, hahahaha.

I've never used the "store-bought" version - I just use scraps of
plywood. How much did they cost?

R

"Bernie Hunt" wrote in message
...
I'm adding this post for the archives. I ended solving two problems with
one
solution. I always hated taping butt joints and I didn't have the joints
landing on studs. I found these premade backer boards that made taping the
butt joints simple!

http://www.butthanger.com/rock_splicer.html

The butt joints came out tapered like the factory edges and taping was
simple, no crowned joints!

I actually had to cut back a couple of the panels to make sure they didn't
land on studs, hahahaha.


I simply use self-adhesive joint tape from Lowes and skim coat over it. You
can't see my joints after using the 12" trowel.