Bought a new American Standard Cadet bowl on Fri. Installed it and the
wax seal was did not seat correctly. I could tell because 1) it
leaked after being flushed several times and 2) when we removed the
bowl it was only pressed into the wax in two small areas.The flange is
about 1.25" below the newly refinished floor, and the floor is not
level. So I buys a waxless solution made by Fluidmaster, their 7500#.
Installed it and the bowl. Still have a leak. Checked the seal by
touch from the floor ceiling below. It is sealed around the toilet
horn. Only one spot I cannot reach and am making the assumption that
if the seal is touching the bottom well over the horn on the sides
checked then it probably is sealed where I cannot physically ascertain
the seal. Turned off the cold water for the day today and found that
the leak had subsided or stopped, it had been dripping at the rate of
about 1 drop every 10 - 15 seconds. When I arrived home I found no
noticeable dripping and that the water level in the bowl had gone down
to the point where it would be difficult to drain any more by hand.
The tank which was left full did not empty into the bowl. I am
thinking that the bowl is cracked somewhere and letting water seep
out. Is it logical to make the assumption that if the water in the
bowl goes down and the cold water is turned off then the leak is in
the bowl itself? Or is there something else going on?

(This is my final challenge in the remodel and would like to spend a
little more time on it before calling a plumber.)

Thanks in advance,
Bill

Probably what you need is:

1. a new seal with a deep throat to better close off the joint between the pipe and the toilet base

2. a beeswax seal to go between the toilet base and the new seal - beeswax is a much better seal.

3. longer flange bolts to better lock the toilet down. got to overcome the height of the new floor re;lative to the flange.

M.O.

1. Thoroughly clean all the old sealant from the toilet base.

2. Remove the old, shallow throated seal from the floor.

3. Replace old bolts with longer ones.

4. Insert the beeswax seals.

5. Gently set toilet on new flange and wiggle it a bit to help seal fit.

6. Sit on your throne to force the seals to take. When all this is done the crapper should be flush with the floor.

7. Tighten flange bolts till toilet stays put - do not over-tighten as the ceramics break easily and cannot be repaired.

8. Turn on the water and pray it does not leak.

Good luck
--
PDQ

--
"Bill" wrote in message ...
| Bought a new American Standard Cadet bowl on Fri. Installed it and the
| wax seal was did not seat correctly. I could tell because 1) it
| leaked after being flushed several times and 2) when we removed the
| bowl it was only pressed into the wax in two small areas.The flange is
| about 1.25" below the newly refinished floor, and the floor is not
| level. So I buys a waxless solution made by Fluidmaster, their 7500#.
| Installed it and the bowl. Still have a leak. Checked the seal by
| touch from the floor ceiling below. It is sealed around the toilet
| horn. Only one spot I cannot reach and am making the assumption that
| if the seal is touching the bottom well over the horn on the sides
| checked then it probably is sealed where I cannot physically ascertain
| the seal. Turned off the cold water for the day today and found that
| the leak had subsided or stopped, it had been dripping at the rate of
| about 1 drop every 10 - 15 seconds. When I arrived home I found no
| noticeable dripping and that the water level in the bowl had gone down
| to the point where it would be difficult to drain any more by hand.
| The tank which was left full did not empty into the bowl. I am
| thinking that the bowl is cracked somewhere and letting water seep
| out. Is it logical to make the assumption that if the water in the
| bowl goes down and the cold water is turned off then the leak is in
| the bowl itself? Or is there something else going on?
|
| (This is my final challenge in the remodel and would like to spend a
| little more time on it before calling a plumber.)
|
| Thanks in advance,
| Bill

On Wed, 09 Nov 2005 00:54:35 GMT, Bill wrote:

Bought a new American Standard Cadet bowl on Fri. Installed it and the
wax seal was did not seat correctly. I could tell because 1) it
leaked after being flushed several times and 2) when we removed the
bowl it was only pressed into the wax in two small areas.The flange is
about 1.25" below the newly refinished floor, and the floor is not
level. So I buys a waxless solution made by Fluidmaster, their 7500#.
Installed it and the bowl. Still have a leak. Checked the seal by
touch from the floor ceiling below. It is sealed around the toilet
horn. Only one spot I cannot reach and am making the assumption that
if the seal is touching the bottom well over the horn on the sides
checked then it probably is sealed where I cannot physically ascertain
the seal. Turned off the cold water for the day today and found that
the leak had subsided or stopped, it had been dripping at the rate of
about 1 drop every 10 - 15 seconds. When I arrived home I found no
noticeable dripping and that the water level in the bowl had gone down
to the point where it would be difficult to drain any more by hand.
The tank which was left full did not empty into the bowl. I am
thinking that the bowl is cracked somewhere and letting water seep
out. Is it logical to make the assumption that if the water in the
bowl goes down and the cold water is turned off then the leak is in
the bowl itself? Or is there something else going on?

(This is my final challenge in the remodel and would like to spend a
little more time on it before calling a plumber.)

Thanks in advance,
Bill


Re Install using 2 wax seals, one with the plastic ring another
without. Get them good and soft before hand. A good practice on every
install.........
Tom

On Wed, 09 Nov 2005 07:21:26 -0600, Trekking Tom wrote:

On Wed, 09 Nov 2005 00:54:35 GMT, Bill wrote:

Bought a new American Standard Cadet bowl on Fri. Installed it and the
wax seal was did not seat correctly. I could tell because 1) it
leaked after being flushed several times and 2) when we removed the
xxxxxx


Re Install using 2 wax seals, one with the plastic ring another
without. Get them good and soft before hand. A good practice on every
install.........
Tom



Thanks for the replies, The leak stopped magically after being in use
for a day....Think I forgot the last part...Sit on the toilet!